Tools & supplies
- Basic metric socket set (common sizes: 8, 10, 12, 14 mm) with extensions and swivel. Confirm exact sizes on the vehicle before removing bolts.
- Torque wrench (0–100 ft·lb range).
- Breaker bar.
- Ratchet and 1/4" driver for small fasteners.
- Oil drain pan (large capacity).
- Floor jack and good-quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight).
- Wheel chocks.
- Gasket scraper or plastic scraper and razor blades (use carefully).
- Clean shop rags and parts cleaning solvent (brake cleaner).
- Magnetic tray for bolts.
- Rubber mallet or dead blow.
- Flat screwdriver or small pry bar (thin).
- RTV silicone (high-temp, oil-resistant) if required by gasket type — use OEM-recommended sealant if available.
- New oil pan gasket (OEM or good aftermarket gasket) OR appropriate RTV-only gasket procedure.
- New oil drain plug washer/crush washer.
- New engine oil and new oil filter.
- Safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Optional: engine support bar (if required to slightly lift/support engine), torque angle gauge (if required).

Safety precautions
- Park on level ground, set parking brake and chock rear wheels.
- Work on a cold engine. Hot oil or components will burn.
- Use a proper floor jack and place jack stands under rated lift points — never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep solvent away from ignition sources.
- Drain oil into a suitable container and dispose of used oil and gasket material per local regulations.

Overview (what you will do)
1) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter. 2) Raise and securely support vehicle. 3) Remove any obstructions (skid plates, braces, sensors) to gain access. 4) Remove oil pan bolts, lower pan and pickup/windage assembly. 5) Clean mating surfaces, inspect parts, replace gasket/crush washer and reassemble using correct torque pattern and values. 6) Refill oil and check for leaks.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Preparation
- Run the engine briefly to warm oil so it drains easily, then shut it off and let it cool a few minutes.
- Place drain pan under the oil drain plug. Remove oil filler cap to vent the system.

2. Drain oil & remove oil filter
- Remove drain plug and drain oil completely. Replace drain plug washer and thread drain plug back lightly (or leave out while pan off to avoid contamination). Remove oil filter (catch oil).
- Dispose of oil/filter properly.

3. Raise and support vehicle
- Loosen lug nuts slightly if you will remove wheels to gain access.
- Use floor jack to raise front of vehicle and place on jack stands at manufacturer-specified points. Confirm stability.

4. Remove obstructions
- On 22R/22R‑E, you may need to remove or loosen:
- Lower splash/engine undertray (if fitted)
- Crossmember or brace that interferes with pan removal (if present)
- Oil pressure sender/switch or wiring harness clips attached to pan
- Transmission-to-engine bolts if they interfere (normally not required)
- Label and stow any removed parts/bolts.

5. Remove oil pan bolts
- Remove all oil pan bolts. Keep bolts organized by location (short/long).
- Note: some bolts may be in recesses or behind brackets — use extensions and swivels.
- Loosen bolts evenly; do not pry initially so as not to damage mating surface.

6. Break the seal and lower pan
- Carefully pry the pan free using a thin pry tool or flat screwdriver. Work around perimeter to break the seal—don’t gouge the mating surface.
- Support pan as you break seal (pan will drop when fully free). Tilt pan down and remove it from vehicle.
- Expect residual oil in pan — keep drain pan underneath.

7. Remove windage tray / pickup
- Under the oil pan you’ll find the windage tray and the oil pickup/strainer assembly.
- Remove pickup bolts and windage tray bolts. Keep bolts in order.
- Inspect pickup gasket/seal and pickup tube bolts. If pickup uses a gasket, replace it or use proper sealant per manual.

8. Inspect parts & clean surfaces
- Inspect oil pump pick-up screen for debris. Inspect pan for damage or dents.
- Clean all mating surfaces on block and pan with scraper and solvent. Remove old gasket material completely—be careful not to gouge the machined surface.
- Clean bolt holes; ensure threads are intact.

9. Replace parts as required
- Replace oil pan gasket (if using a gasket), or apply a continuous bead of OEM-approved RTV to the pan/block mating surface if the repair calls for RTV-only installation.
- Replace drain plug crush washer.
- Replace any corroded bolts or damaged windage/pickup components.

10. Reinstall pickup and windage tray
- Install pickup and tray using correct bolts torque. Ensure pickup bolts are tight and pickup flange gasket/seal is properly seated. Prevent any gasket material from protruding into pickup.

11. Install oil pan
- If using a gasket: position gasket on pan (some gaskets use a small amount of RTV at corners). If using RTV: apply correct bead pattern (manufacturer typically specifies bead width and location — e.g., 3–4 mm continuous bead on pan flange).
- Align pan and start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern progressively to specified torque.

Torque values (typical guidance; verify with factory manual)
- Oil pan bolts: typically light torque — around 8–14 ft·lb (11–19 N·m). Do not overtighten.
- Drain plug: typically 25–35 ft·lb (34–47 N·m).
- Pickup/windage bolts: see service manual; often similar to pan bolt torque.
Note: These are general guidance values. Consult a Toyota service manual for exact torque specs and sequences for the 22R/22R‑E.

12. Reinstall removed components
- Reinstall skid plates, crossmembers, oil pressure sensor, wiring clips, etc.
- Reinstall oil filter and torque per spec by hand (filter snug + 3/4 turn or as directed).

13. Lower vehicle, refill oil, and test
- Lower vehicle carefully. Refill engine with correct type and amount of oil.
- Start engine and let idle; check for leaks around pan, drain plug, pickup, oil filter and pressure sensor.
- Re-torque drain plug and pan bolts after initial warm-up if recommended by manual (some recommend recheck after heat cycles).

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Reusing old gasket or failing to fully clean mating surfaces: always replace gasket or follow correct RTV procedure. Old gasket residue causes leaks.
- Overtightening pan bolts: pan bolts are small and strip easily; use torque wrench and follow pattern.
- Leaving debris in pan or pickup: debris can damage oil pump—cover openings while cleaning and inspect pick-up screen carefully.
- Damaging mating surfaces with aggressive scraping: use plastic scraper or thin blade gently; don’t gouge the block flange.
- Forgetting to replace crush washer: leads to drain leaks. Always replace the drain plug washer.
- Not supporting engine (if a crossmember must be removed): if you remove any engine mount or crossmember that supports the engine, make sure to support the engine securely.
- Using wrong sealant: use only oil-rated RTV where required. Excess RTV squeezed into oil passages can block pickup.
- Cross-threading bolts: start bolts by hand, especially long/hidden ones.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Oil pan gasket (or OEM-recommended RTV)
- Drain plug crush washer
- Oil filter
- Engine oil (correct grade and quantity)
- Pickup gasket/o-ring (if applicable)
- Pan bolts (if corroded or damaged)
- Oil pan (if damaged or leaking and beyond gasket fix)

How specific tools are used
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts in stages and in a crisscross pattern to specified torque. Prevents warping/sealing problems.
- Socket extensions and universal joint: reach bolts in tight spaces without stressing fasteners at an angle.
- Scraper/razor: gently remove old gasket material; follow with solvent wipe to ensure a clean mating surface.
- Floor jack & jack stands: jack under specified lift points, lower vehicle onto stands, verify stability before working under.
- Magnetic tray: keep removed bolts and small parts organized and matched to their location.
- Rubber mallet: tap pan gently to break seal without damaging flange.

Final checks
- After first drive or 100 miles, recheck pan bolts and drain plug for tightness and inspect for leaks.
- Verify oil pressure gauge/indicator is normal after refill.

Done.
rteeqp73

LCE Performance Exhaust Install on 22R Toyota Pickup Installing LCE Performance's Street Header and ProFlow exhaust system on the Toyota Pickup. This video shows the entire install ...

TOYOTA 22RE ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1/2 - Teardown and analysis of a poor running 22R Toyota legend... My 1985 Celica GT Coupe was barely running when I bought it, but I knew that I could bring the legendary 22R-E back to life!

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- Safety and workspace
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe shoes; have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Work on a flat level surface with good lighting and plenty of room to move the transmission.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting electrical or drivetrain work.
- Use jack stands (not just a jack) if the vehicle is lifted; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

- Overview of what you’re doing (brief)
- Planetary gears are inside automatic transmissions; if you have an automatic on a 22R/22R‑E vehicle you’ll access them by removing the transmission, splitting the case, and removing the planetary carrier assembly.
- If your vehicle has a manual gearbox there is no planetary set — stop and confirm you have an automatic tranny before proceeding.

- Recommended alternative for a beginner
- Consider buying a rebuild kit and service manual or a remanufactured transmission if you are a complete beginner—rebuilding an automatic planetary set requires precision measuring and special tools.

- Essential basic tools (what they are and how to use them)
- Socket and wrench set (metric): used to remove bolts and nuts. Use correct size sockets, pull straight to avoid rounding fasteners.
- Ratchet and breaker bar: ratchet for normal fasteners, breaker bar for stubborn bolts—apply steady force, don’t jerk.
- Screwdrivers (flat + Phillips) and pry bars: for small clips and gentle prying; use carefully to avoid gouging mating surfaces.
- Hammer and rubber mallet: hammer for driving punches, rubber mallet for coaxing parts without damaging them.

- Specialized tools you will likely need (detailed descriptions and why)
- Transmission jack or floor jack plus proper adapter
- Description: transmission jack supports and lowers the transmission safely.
- Use: center and secure the transmission on the jack before disconnecting mount bolts; lower slowly and evenly.
- Why required: manual handling is dangerous/heavy; transmission weight and awkward shape require support.
- Torque wrench (click‑type)
- Description: sets bolts to specified torque.
- Use: tighten bolts to the factory torque spec, in sequences recommended by the manual.
- Why required: automatic transmission fasteners and cover bolts must be torqued correctly to avoid leaks or failures.
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal and external)
- Description: pliers with tips that fit into snap‑ring holes for removal/install.
- Use: expand or compress snap rings safely to remove/fit them.
- Why required: many planetary components are retained with snap rings; improper removal can break rings or damage grooves.
- Bearing puller / gear puller
- Description: tools that pull bearings/gears off shafts without damage.
- Use: apply even force to extract bearings/gears; protect surfaces with soft jaws if needed.
- Why required: bearings and gears are press‑fit; hammering risks damage.
- Arbor press or hydraulic press (preferred) and drift set
- Description: press applies controlled axial force; drifts are hardened punches for drivers.
- Use: press bearings on/off shafts, and use drifts for seals and bushings.
- Why required: installing/removing bearings and bushings requires controlled force to avoid misalignment and damage.
- Seal and bearing drivers (stackable)
- Description: matched-diameter tools to drive seals and bearings squarely.
- Use: seat seals/bearings evenly into bores without distortion.
- Why required: prevents seal oil leaks and bearing failure from improper seating.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base / feeler gauges
- Description: measures backlash, endplay, and runout.
- Use: check gear backlash and carrier bearing preloads to factory tolerances.
- Why required: planetary gearsets require specific clearances; incorrect clearances cause noise, overheating, or failure.
- Torque screwdriver / small torque wrench (for valve body screws)
- Description: low‑torque driver used where small torque values are specified.
- Use: tighten valve body and solenoid screws to spec to avoid warping or stripping.
- Why required: valve body sealing and operation depends on correct torque.
- Clean bench, parts trays, and camera
- Description: organized workspace and means to document disassembly.
- Use: keep fasteners/parts labeled and photograph each step to aid reassembly.
- Why required: automatic transmissions have many parts; labeling prevents mistakes.

- Optional but highly useful tools
- Transmission fluid pump for filling the torque converter from a quart bottle.
- Torque converter holding tool (or wooden block) to stop converter from rotating while torquing flexplate.
- Shop manual or factory service manual with diagrams, torque specs, and clearances (essential reference).
- Magnetic pickup tool and compressed air for cleaning.

- Parts you will likely need (what they are and why replace)
- Planetary gear set or individual sun/planet/ring gears
- Why: if gears have pitting, scored teeth, cracks, or excessive wear. Replace the set or individual gears if damaged.
- Carrier assembly (if bearing race or carrier is damaged)
- Why: worn carrier or damaged gear bosses mean unreliable operation; carrier replacement ensures correct geometry.
- Bearings and races
- Why: bearings wear and can cause excessive play or scoring; always replace bearings when you find wear or during a rebuild.
- Snap rings and thrust washers
- Why: these are inexpensive wear items; worn thrust washers or weak snap rings cause endplay and misalignment.
- Seals and gaskets (case gasket, front/rear output seals, pan gasket, valve body gasket)
- Why: seals/gaskets should be replaced to prevent leaks when the case is opened.
- Clutch packs and friction plates / steels (if present nearby)
- Why: slipping or burnt frictions are common and should be replaced if worn.
- Filter and transmission fluid (ATF)
- Why: replace filter and fluid whenever you open or rebuild the transmission.
- Rebuild kit (recommended)
- Description: contains most seals, gaskets, bushings, thrusts, and small components for a specific transmission model.
- Why: ensures you replace all wear items and achieve a reliable rebuild.
- Torque converter (inspect; replace if damaged)
- Why: damaged converter can contaminate fluid and destroy a fresh rebuild.

- How to confirm parts need replacement (inspect these signs)
- Visual inspection for metal flakes or heavy scoring on gear teeth.
- Check gear tooth surfaces for pitting, rounding, missing teeth or cracks.
- Spin bearings by hand; roughness or radial play indicates replacement.
- Measure backlash and endplay against specs—excessive values require new thrust washers/bearings.
- Presence of burnt-smelling oil or discolored clutches indicates clutch replacement.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level steps for a beginner; follow each sub-bullet carefully)
- Preparation and documentation
- Photograph linkage and wire locations before removal; label connectors and cables.
- Drain transmission fluid into a drain pan and inspect for metal particles.
- Remove transmission from vehicle
- Support engine if transmission crossmember removal reduces engine support.
- Disconnect electrical connectors, shift linkage, cooler lines (cap them), starter, driveshaft (mark orientation), and transmission mounts.
- Use a transmission jack to support and lower the transmission after bolts are removed.
- Secure and clean the transmission for bench work
- Place transmission on a clean sturdy bench on a transmission stand or blocks.
- Remove the pan, filter, and valve body (photograph routing and bolt locations).
- Drain remaining fluid and clean mating surfaces with solvent; keep parts organized in labelled trays.
- Split the case and access planetary assembly
- Remove the front pump or housing per manual instructions to separate case halves.
- Note orientation of the torque converter and input shaft; mark the converter if you will reuse it.
- Carefully split the case; be ready for springs or small parts to release.
- Remove valve body, servo pistons, and any band adjusters in order to access the planetary carrier.
- Disassemble planetary carrier
- Use snap‑ring pliers to remove snap rings retaining gears and bearings.
- Use a bearing puller or press to remove bearings; keep shims/thrust washers in order and labeled.
- Inspect each gear, bearing, snap ring, and thrust for wear versus the service manual limits.
- Replace damaged/worn components
- Press on new bearings and seat new seals with the correct drivers.
- Replace worn gears, thrust washers, snap rings, and bushings; install new parts in the same orientation as removed.
- Check and set correct endplay/backlash using dial indicator and shims as per the manual; adjust with thrust washers or shim kits.
- Reassemble carrier and transmission
- Reapply sealant/gaskets per manual and torque bolts in correct sequence with torque wrench.
- Reinstall valve body, filter, pan and any external sensors—torque small screws to specified values.
- Reinstall torque converter properly seated onto the input shaft (feel multiple engagement points); ensure it fully engages the pump.
- Reinstall transmission into vehicle
- Lift with transmission jack, align torque converter with flexplate, install bellhousing bolts, then torque converter bolts (if applicable) and transmission mount bolts to spec.
- Reconnect linkage, wiring, cooler lines, driveshaft (align marks), and refill with correct type and amount of ATF.
- Initial testing and break‑in
- Start engine and let the transmission come to operating temperature; check for leaks.
- Shift through each gear with foot brake applied before driving; listen for abnormal noises.
- Road test gently, avoiding heavy load or high temperature for the first 100–300 miles; recheck fluid level when warm.

- Common pitfalls and beginner traps
- Reusing worn snap rings, bearings, seals, or clutch packs often leads to early failure—replace wear items.
- Skipping dialing in backlash and endplay will cause noisy or destructive operation.
- Improperly seating the torque converter or failing to tighten torque converter bolts can destroy the pump.
- Not labeling parts/bolts and taking photos leads to reassembly errors.

- Fluid, parts ordering, and reference materials
- Get a vehicle‑specific rebuild kit and the exact part numbers for your transmission model (use VIN or transmission code).
- Buy the recommended ATF for your transmission; wrong fluid can cause shift problems.
- Obtain the factory service manual or a reputable rebuild manual for your transmission model for torque specs, clearances, and sequences.

- If you aren’t comfortable: professional options
- If you lack the press, torque measuring tools, or a transmission jack, consider sending the transmission to a professional rebuilder or purchasing a remanufactured unit—this avoids the risk of damaging expensive components.

- Final notes
- Keep everything extremely clean; contamination kills transmissions.
- Replace consumables (filters, seals, gaskets, fluid, any worn bearings/clutches) rather than trying to reuse them.
- Using the correct specialized tools and the factory manual is not optional if you want a reliable repair.
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