Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Basic metric hand tools: 8–19 mm sockets, long/short extensions, 10–24 mm wrenches, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lb range).
- Transmission jack (or heavy-duty floor jack + wood blocks) and jack stands (4).
- Wheel chocks, ramps or 3‑ton jack.
- Clutch alignment tool (fits 22R clutch spline), pilot bearing driver or small seal driver.
- Pilot bearing puller (slide‑hammer or small extractor).
- Pry bars, large screwdrivers, rubber mallet.
- Snap ring pliers (if applicable), needle nose pliers.
- Drain pan, shop rags, brake cleaner.
- Seal driver or press (for pilot bushing).
- Threadlocker (medium strength), anti-seize on exhaust bolts.
- Grease (high-temp anti-seize / small amount of transmission bearing grease).
- Brake fluid (DOT 3/4) for hydraulic systems.
- Replacement fluids: gearbox gear oil (check vehicle spec).
- Optional: flywheel resurfacing equipment (bench lathe at machine shop) or new flywheel.

Replacement parts (typical)
- Complete clutch kit: friction disc, pressure plate, release (throw‑out) bearing.
- Pilot bushing/bearing.
- Clutch alignment tool (or included with kit).
- Flywheel (resurface or replace if damaged).
- Bellhousing/input shaft seal (if leaking).
- Clutch fork (inspect; replace if worn), fork pivot or spring.
- Clutch master/slave cylinder (if hydraulic and suspect).
- Flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts (replace if specified single‑use).
- Gaskets/sealant where required.

Safety precautions
- Work on flat surface; chock rear wheels. Use rated jack stands under frame (never rely on jack).
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Support engine if transmission removal compromises engine mounts (engine support bar or strap).
- Use a proper transmission jack; transmission weight can crush or drop vehicle/exposed hands.
- Allow exhaust/engine to cool before touching.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep rags away from open flames (solvents).
- Label hoses/links and mark driveshaft orientation for reassembly.

Step‑by‑step procedure (manual transmission / clutch service on Toyota 22R / 22R‑E)
1) Preparation
- Gather parts and tools. Get factory service manual torque specs and fluid types. Park, chock, disconnect battery. Raise vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove underbody splash pans if present.

2) Remove driveshaft and exhaust interference
- Mark driveshaft flange orientation to rear axle with paint/wire.
- Remove driveshaft bolts and slide shaft back toward rear axle, set aside. Support tail of driveshaft so U‑joints aren’t stressed.
- If crossmember or tail of exhaust pipe blocks access, lower or remove it. Unbolt heat shields as needed.

3) Remove starter & shift linkage
- Remove starter to access bellhousing bolts (disconnect electrical connectors).
- Disconnect clutch slave cylinder or clutch cable/linkage: for hydraulic, unbolt slave cylinder from bellhousing and hang it out of the way (do not let it hang on hose—cap hose). For cable, disconnect and remove cable from lever.
- Disconnect speedometer cable or VSS, electrical connectors, reverse light switch, and shifter linkage at transmission.

4) Support engine & transmission
- Place transmission jack under transmission and raise to take load. If transmission removed, support engine if its mounts depend on bellhousing (use engine brace or jack under oil pan with wood block).
- Remove transmission crossmember and mounting bolts.

5) Separate transmission from engine
- Remove bellhousing bolts (top and bottom). Keep bolts organized by location.
- Carefully pry transmission rearwards with pry bar between trans case and bellhousing lip. Ease transmission straight back off input shaft. Support weight with trans jack and lower slightly — do not let release fork drop or grind the throw‑out bearing.
- Pull transmission back until input shaft clears clutch splines and lower transmission enough to remove from under vehicle.

6) Remove old clutch assembly
- Remove pressure plate bolts in a crisscross/star pattern gradually to relieve stress. Note orientation of clutch disc (facing direction/marking).
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Inspect clutch face/plate for heat spots, warpage, cracks.

7) Inspect & address flywheel, pilot bearing, seals
- Inspect flywheel for blueing, cracks, scoring. Measure runout and thickness where applicable.
- If resurfacing: remove flywheel and send to machine shop for resurfacing or replace if warped beyond spec or cracked.
- Remove pilot bearing from crankshaft (puller). Replace pilot bearing/bushing—press new one flush using driver or press.
- Inspect rear main seal; replace if leaking (this may require separating engine components — decide scope).

8) Replace release bearing & fork, inspect pivot
- Replace throw‑out (release) bearing with new (do not reuse). Lubricate release bearing contact surface lightly (only where specified — do not grease friction surface).
- Inspect release fork, pivot ball or clip for wear; replace or lubricate pivot per service manual.

9) Install new clutch (dry fitting)
- Clean flywheel friction surface with brake cleaner and ensure it’s oil/grease free.
- Use clutch alignment tool: insert through new clutch disc and into pilot bearing. Place disc on flywheel with the friction surface orientation as specified (usually the marked side faces pressure plate / transmission).
- Position pressure plate over disc, start bolts by hand. Tighten bolts gradually in a star pattern to seat pressure plate evenly, finally torque to factory spec (consult manual). Use threadlocker if specified.

10) Reinstall transmission
- Verify input shaft and clutch spline are dry and lightly lubricated on spline only (very small amount of high‑temp grease on spline). Do not contaminate friction surfaces.
- Using transmission jack, align transmission input shaft to clutch disc using alignment tool as guide; slide transmission forward until bellhousing mates with engine block and dowel pins engage.
- Install bellhousing bolts loosely, then torque to spec in a cross pattern.

11) Reinstall components and bleed/adjust
- Reinstall starter, crossmember, driveshaft (align marks), shifter linkage, speedometer cable, and electrical connectors.
- Refill transmission fluid to specified level/type.
- If hydraulic clutch, bleed clutch master/slave cylinder properly (pressure bleed or manual with helper) using DOT 3/4 per OEM spec. For cable clutches, adjust cable free play per manual.

12) Final checks & break‑in
- Lower vehicle. Reconnect battery.
- With vehicle on stands, start engine and press clutch to check for smooth operation/no leaks. Test gear engagement with engine off or on jack stands.
- Road test: avoid heavy loads for first 500 miles; follow break‑in instructions in clutch kit (avoid slipping, do smooth upshifts).

How key tools are used
- Transmission jack: cradle the gearbox on its pan, strap to jack. Use it to steady and raise/lower transmission to align bellhousing with engine dowels; prevents injury.
- Clutch alignment tool: inserted into pilot bore and held while pressure plate bolts are torqued — centers disc so transmission input spline will engage easily.
- Pilot bearing puller/driver: puller removes old bearing; driver or press installs new bearing flush without cocking.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts to specified torque in star pattern; prevents warpage and ensures even clamp load.
- Pry bar: used gently to separate transmission from engine (avoid prying on mating surfaces or case ribs excessively).

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Contaminating clutch surfaces: never touch friction surfaces with oily hands or grease. Keep brake cleaner and clean rags handy.
- Misaligned disc: not using an alignment tool causes hard installation and bearing/gearbox input‑shaft damage. Always use tool.
- Reusing single‑use bolts: some flywheel/pressure plate bolts are torque‑to‑yield — replace them.
- Not checking pilot bearing/input shaft: a worn pilot causes input shaft runout and chatter. Replace pilot bearing when clutch is out.
- Not resurfacing or replacing damaged flywheel: glossed or hot‑spotted flywheel will shorten clutch life and cause chatter.
- Forgetting to bleed hydraulic clutch: will cause soft pedal and incomplete disengagement.
- Incorrect torque sequencing: uneven torque will warp pressure plate causing chatter/clutch drag.
- Inadequate support: support engine and transmission correctly — failure risks dropped transmission and injury.
- Over‑greasing spline or getting grease on disc: apply only a light smear on input spline and wipe excess.

Notes on parts & fluids
- Use OE or reputable aftermarket clutch kits sized for 22R spline (most 22R manuals use a 23 or 24‑tooth spline — check kit for compatibility).
- Replace slave/master cylinders if old, leaking, or spongy.
- Use correct gear oil for transmission and DOT specified brake fluid for system. Check factory manual.

Post‑repair verification
- No abnormal noises while shifting. Smooth engagement without shudder or slip.
- No leaks at bellhousing, slave/master cylinder, or rear main.
- Pedal feel returns to normal; free play per spec.
- Re‑torque critical bolts after 500–1,000 miles if specified by manufacturer.

Follow factory service manual torque specs and tolerances for final values. This procedure covers a typical 22R/22R‑E manual clutch/transmission removal and clutch service.
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