- Safety and prep
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent accidental cranking or shorts.
- Work on a level surface, use jack stands if you raise the vehicle, chock wheels.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Have absorbent pads and a drip pan ready for spilled oil/coolant.
- Get the factory service manual or a reliable repair manual for your exact year 22R / 22R‑E for specs, torque values, and timing marks.

- Overview of the job (what “camshaft” work usually involves)
- Remove valve cover and timing cover, set engine to Top Dead Center (TDC), release timing chain tension, remove rocker assembly and cam caps, slide camshaft out of the head, inspect and replace worn parts, reinstall with proper lubrication and torque, realign timing and reassemble.
- You can often remove the camshaft without removing the cylinder head on the 22R family, but you must control timing and lubrication carefully.
- Expect to replace soft items (gaskets, seals, tensioner, possibly chain/guides/lifters) whenever you disassemble the timing/valvetrain.

- Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use them)
- Metric socket set (3/8" and 1/2" drive, 8–19 mm common sizes)
- Use for most bolts (valve cover, timing cover, rocker bolts, crank pulley bolts). Use correct size to avoid rounding heads. Use extensions to reach deep bolts.
- Ratchet and extensions
- Ratchet for maneuvering sockets; extensions get into tight spaces.
- Breaker bar
- Provides high leverage to initially break tight bolts (crank pulley bolt). Do not use to tighten final torque.
- Torque wrench (range covering at least 10–150 ft‑lb)
- Essential: tighten cam caps, rocker assembly, crank pulley and head bolts to specified torque. Follow factory torque sequence and values to avoid warping or improper preload.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- Helpful where sockets won’t fit; for holding nuts or finishing bolts in tight spaces.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Remove clamps, small covers, and pry off gaskets gently when needed.
- Pliers (regular and needle-nose)
- Remove hose clamps, pull cotter pins, manipulate small parts.
- Harmonic balancer / crank pulley puller
- Required to remove crank pulley/harmonic balancer so you can remove timing cover. Works by threading bolts into balancer and pulling it off the crank snout without damage.
- Impact driver (manual or pneumatic) or breaker bar + socket for crank bolt
- Helpful for removing the crank pulley bolt; a manual impact driver can remove stuck fasteners without damage.
- Camshaft holding tool / sprocket locking tool (or improvised method)
- Keeps cam/chain sprockets aligned while you work. If you don’t have the specific tool, use timing marks and a method to hold the chain/tensioner (see procedure). Using the proper tool reduces the chance of losing timing alignment.
- Pick set and gasket scraper (plastic/metal)
- Remove old gaskets and deposits carefully; avoid gouging sealing surfaces.
- Feeler gauge / valve adjustment tool (if adjusting valve lash)
- Some 22R variants require checking/adjusting valve clearance after reinstallation; use a feeler gauge to set correct lash.
- Drain pan and funnel
- Catch any oil or coolant drained during cover removal.
- Clean rags and parts cleaner (brake clean)
- Clean oil passage plugs and mating surfaces before reassembly.
- Hydraulic press or bench vise (only if camshaft bearings or pressed parts must be removed)
- Rare for this job; only needed for bearing or pressed-on parts replacement.
- Magnetic pickup / small tray
- Keep small bolts and parts organized.
- Valve spring compressor (only if replacing valve seals or removing valves)
- Required if you intend to remove valve springs/seals. Not needed for just cam removal unless you plan to service valve seals.
- Seal puller and installer (for camshaft oil seal)
- Allows removal and proper installation of the camshaft front seal without damage.
- Engine hoist / support (only if head removal is necessary)
- Not normally required for camshaft removal on 22R, but required if you decide to remove the cylinder head.

- Consumables and parts commonly required (why and when)
- Valve cover gasket
- Always replace when removing valve cover; old gasket will leak.
- Camshaft front oil seal
- Remove/replace when camshaft is out; sealing surface is often disturbed during service.
- Timing cover gasket / crank seal
- Replace when timing cover is removed; prevents oil leaks.
- Timing chain and sprockets (recommended if worn or noisy)
- Chains stretch and guides wear; if chain shows slack or noise, replace to avoid timing jump and engine damage.
- Timing chain tensioner and guide rails
- Tensioner loses proper preload with age; replace to maintain correct chain tension.
- Lifters / cam followers (inspect; replace if pitted/worn)
- Worn followers accelerate cam lobe wear; if lobe or follower damage exists, replace the counterpart.
- Camshaft (only if worn, scored, or damaged)
- Replace if journal scoring, lobe wear, or pitting is found. Installing a new cam without replacing worn followers or bearings is poor practice.
- Head bolts (if they’re torque‑to‑yield; check manual)
- Some bolts are single‑use; if so, replace to ensure correct clamping force.
- Engine oil and filter
- Change oil after reassembly and run-in to remove debris and replenish oil lost during service.
- RTV gasket maker (if specified for certain areas)
- Use for small sealing surfaces per manual instructions.

- Quick inspection checklist (before and after removing cam)
- Check for metal in oil, noisy valvetrain, worn cam lobes, pitted lifters.
- Inspect cam journals and lobes for scoring or flattening.
- Inspect cam bearings (if accessible) and replace if they show wear.
- Inspect timing chain and guides for slack, wear, or broken plastic.

- Step-by-step procedure (concise, do not skip reading manual)
- Prepare: disconnect battery, drain minimal coolant if necessary, drain oil if you want a clean job (optional but recommended if metal was found).
- Remove intake air box and accessories obstructing valve cover and timing cover access.
- Remove valve cover: loosen bolts, lift off cover, set aside old gasket.
- Rotate engine to TDC on compression stroke for cylinder 1 using crank pulley bolt and socket; align crank timing mark to TDC on timing cover.
- Verify cam timing marks on cam sprocket(s) align with marks on head/cover; lock sprocket with holding tool or secure chain to prevent movement.
- Remove distributor or ignition components that interfere (mark rotor position if applicable) — on 22R-E you must maintain ignition timing marks.
- Remove rocker arm assembly: loosen and remove rocker arm bolts in the sequence recommended by manual, keep parts in order and note orientation.
- Release timing chain tensioner: follow manual to collapse or pin the hydraulic tensioner so the chain has slack.
- Remove camshaft bearing cap bolts in reverse sequence of tightening, slowly and evenly, keeping caps in their original orientation and order; mark caps so they go back in same place/front‑to‑back and orientation.
- Lift camshaft straight out, support it on clean rags; inspect lobes, journals, and keyways.
- Inspect lifters/followers and journals; replace any worn components. Clean oil passages and bolt holes.
- Replace front cam oil seal using seal puller and installer if removing camshaft. Replace gaskets indicated by manual.
- Prepare new or existing camshaft by coating lobes and journals with engine assembly lube; slide camshaft into position carefully, avoiding gouging the seal or journals.
- Reinstall bearing caps in the correct order and orientation; hand‑start bolts, then tighten in factory sequence to specified torque using torque wrench.
- Reinstall rocker assembly and adjust valve lash if required by your model (check clearance with feeler gauge or follow factory procedure for hydraulic lifter preload).
- Reinstall timing chain tensioner and ensure correct chain tension; align all timing marks again and rotate engine two full revolutions by the crank to confirm no interference and marks return to TDC.
- Reinstall crank pulley/harmonic balancer (use torque wrench to the specified torque), timing cover, new gaskets, valve cover with new gasket, and other removed parts.
- Reinstall distributor/ignition in original orientation; set ignition timing after start if disturbed.
- Refill oil (and coolant if drained), prime oil system (crank engine without starting a few seconds to build oil pressure), then start and monitor for leaks and abnormal noises.
- Recheck torque on accessible bolts after initial run and again after a short break‑in drive as recommended.

- How to use some key tools in this job (short how‑tos)
- Torque wrench
- Set to specified torque; tighten bolts in factory sequence in steps (e.g., snug → intermediate → final torque). Use correct units (ft‑lb or N·m).
- Harmonic balancer puller
- Thread adapter bolts into the balancer, attach center forcing screw, tighten the forcing screw to pull the balancer straight off the crank snout. Don’t hammer the crank.
- Cam holding / sprocket locking tool
- Fit tool per the manual to hold sprocket/cam from rotating while you remove tension. If using an improvised pin, ensure it cannot slip and damage gear teeth.
- Seal puller/installer
- Pry old seal out evenly; use installer (a socket of appropriate diameter) to seat new seal squarely to correct depth.
- Valve adjustment with feeler gauge
- With cam in proper position per manual, insert correct thickness feeler gauge between rocker toe and valve stem or follower; tighten adjuster until slight drag on gauge; torque locknut if present.

- Common beginner pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Losing timing alignment: always mark timing positions and use a holding tool or pin the tensioner before removing sprockets.
- Mixing up caps/rockers: keep parts in order and label them; cap/bolt order is critical.
- Under‑ or over‑torquing bolts: always use a torque wrench for critical fasteners.
- Reusing old seals/gaskets: leads to leaks — replace them.
- Not priming oil system: cam lobes need oil before first start — crank engine with fuel disabled or short starts to build pressure, and check oil pressure gauge.

- When replacement is required and why
- Replace camshaft if lobes are flattened, pitted, or scored — worn lobes reduce valve lift and will not be corrected by adjustments.
- Replace lifters/followers if they are pitted, collapsed (hydraulic), or show excessive wear — a new cam on old lifters will wear prematurely and vice versa.
- Replace timing chain/tensioner/guides if chain slack, noise, or guides worn — a loose chain can jump teeth and cause valve-to-piston interference.
- Replace seals and gaskets when accessing components — they’re cheap insurance against leaks.
- Replace head bolts only if the manual states they are torque‑to‑yield or otherwise single‑use.

- Final checks after reassembly
- Rotate engine two full revolutions by hand and verify timing marks return to TDC.
- Start engine and listen for unusual knocks/clacks; check oil pressure and for leaks.
- Recheck valve lash/timing and torque as recommended after warm‑up and after a short test drive.

- Strong recommendations for a beginner
- Buy or borrow the factory service manual for torque values, bolt sequences, timing mark diagrams, and specific procedures for your model year.
- If you are not confident with timing, locking tools, or torque procedures, consider having an experienced friend help or hire a professional for critical steps (timing chain/tensioner work).
- Replace chain, tensioner, guides, cam seals, and gaskets as preventative maintenance when doing the job — it reduces the chance of redoing the job soon after.

- Minimal essential extras for a reliable job
- Torque wrench, harmonic balancer puller, cam/sprocket holding tool or proper locking pin, seal installer, new gaskets/seals, assembly lube, new timing chain/tensioner if in doubt.

End of instructions — follow the factory manual exactly for bolt torques, sequences, and any model‑specific differences between 22R and 22R‑E.
rteeqp73

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