- Safety first (short, clear):
- Work on a flat surface, parking brake set, wheels chocked.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before doing anything electrical.
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands if you must raise it — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; have a fire extinguisher nearby (fuel lines will be disconnected on a 22R‑E).

- High‑level job overview (what you will do):
- Drain coolant and remove intake/exhaust and ancillaries, remove valve cover and rocker assembly, remove pushrods and distributor, remove head bolts and lift off head, inspect and have head checked/resurfaced if needed, install new head gasket and reassemble to proper torque sequence, replace fluids, test for leaks and proper operation.

- Tools you probably already have (basic tools) and exactly how to use them:
- Combination wrench set (open and boxed ends):
- Use to hold nuts or turn bolts where sockets won't fit. Match wrench size to fastener to avoid rounding heads; pull toward you rather than push where possible for safety.
- Ratchet and socket set (3/8" drive minimum; 1/2" drive recommended for larger bolts):
- Use correct size sockets (metric sizes for Toyota). 1/2" drive for head bolts/long bolts. Use breaker bar for stubborn bolts; switch to ratchet for removal. Keep extensions for hard‑to‑reach bolts.
- Screwdriver set (flat and Phillips):
- For clamps, small brackets, and hose clamps. Use correct tip to avoid camming out.
- Pliers (slip joint, needle‑nose) and channel‑lock pliers:
- Use for hose clamps, holding small components, pulling connectors. Needle‑nose for tight spots.
- Hammer and rubber mallet:
- Rubber mallet to nudge stuck parts without damaging; small hammer for light persuasion.
- Wire brush and stiff bristle brush:
- Clean gasket surfaces and threads carefully; use wire brush lightly, avoid gouging sealing surfaces.
- Drain pan:
- Catch coolant and oil; dispose of used fluids properly.
- Funnel and funnel hose:
- For refilling coolant without spills.
- Shop rags and clean lint‑free towels:
- Clean mating surfaces and prevent dirt in engine.
- Flashlight or work light:
- Illuminate tight areas under the intake and around the head.

- Specialty and strongly recommended tools (why you need them and how to use them):
- Torque wrench (click‑type, appropriate range e.g., 10–150 ft‑lb):
- Why required: correct head bolt torque is critical for sealing the head gasket and preventing leaks or warped head. How to use: set to specified torque from factory manual, tighten in the specified sequence in multiple stages; listen for the click and stop applying force once it clicks. Do not use a torque wrench as a breaker bar.
- Breaker bar (long handle bar):
- Why required: to initially break loose tight head bolts and exhaust manifold bolts without damaging your ratchet. How to use: attach socket and apply steady pressure; don’t jerk.
- Head bolt socket / deep 12‑point sockets (correct size) and universal joint or swivel:
- Why required: head bolts are deep recessed and may need a deep socket and good access angle. Use with breaker bar/torque wrench.
- Valve cover gasket removal tool or gasket scraper (plastic or brass blade):
- Why required: safely remove old gasket material without gouging sealing surface. How to use: scrape at shallow angle, use plastic to avoid damage.
- Gasket scraper and razor blades (careful):
- For final cleanup of mating surfaces. Work slowly to avoid cutting into aluminum.
- Magnetic pickup and parts tray:
- Keep fasteners organized and retrieve fallen bolts.
- Feeler gauges (if checking valve lash or rockers):
- If you plan to set valve clearances, use feeler gauge to measure gap and adjust rocker if required.
- Torque angle gauge (only if head bolts are torque‑to‑yield / angle spec is used):
- Why required: some procedures require a torque plus angle turn. If the manual calls for angle tightening, you need this. If you don’t have one, do not guess — get the tool.
- Compression tester and leak‑down tester (post‑repair checks):
- Why required: to verify sealing and engine health after reassembly. Use a compression gauge on each cylinder to check for similar pressures.
- Engine hoist or overhead support (optional, usually not required):
- Usually not needed for 22R head removal; the head is heavy but manageable for two people. Use hoist if you’re unsure about lifting.

- Consumables and replacement parts you should buy before starting (and why):
- Head gasket set (specific for Toyota 22R or 22R‑E):
- Why: the used gasket must be replaced; head gasket seals coolant and combustion. Buy the correct gasket for your engine variant (22R vs 22R‑E).
- Full cylinder head gasket set or a head gasket kit that includes intake and exhaust manifold gaskets:
- Why: intake and exhaust gaskets are disturbed and should be replaced to prevent leaks.
- Valve cover gasket:
- Why: removed and should be new to prevent oil leaks.
- Head bolts (recommended):
- Why: bolts can stretch or fatigue; replacing head bolts reduces risk of failure and ensures correct clamping force. If Toyota calls for reusable bolts, you can reuse if in excellent condition, but as a beginner, replacement is safer.
- New thermostat, coolant, and coolant hose clamps:
- Why: you are draining coolant and hoses are aged; replace the thermostat if old and the coolant to ensure proper cooling after job.
- New engine oil and oil filter:
- Why: coolant can contaminate oil during head removal; changing oil afterward is standard practice.
- RTV sealant or copper spray (only if specified by gasket instructions):
- Why: some gaskets require a thin bead in certain spots — follow gasket manufacturer's instructions.
- Anti‑seize compound and thread locker (if specified for certain bolts):
- Why: anti‑seize on exhaust manifold bolts and a medium strength thread locker on some accessory bolts can help; follow manual guidance.
- Replacement valve stem seals, valves, or resurfaced head (only if inspection shows need):
- Why: if head has cracked or valves are leaking, you need valve job parts or a machine shop to repair.

- Steps to remove the head (bulleted procedural outline — follow factory manual for torque specs and exact sequences):
- Disconnect negative battery terminal and relieve fuel system pressure on 22R‑E (disconnect fuel pump fuse and run engine until it stalls, or follow safe fuel pressure relief).
- Drain coolant into pan.
- Label and disconnect all vacuum lines, electrical connectors, throttle cables, fuel lines (use fuel line disconnect tool if required), and sensor connectors from the intake and head area; cap fuel lines to limit spillage.
- Remove air intake (carburetor or throttle body) and intake manifold; set aside and label bolts/parts by location.
- Remove exhaust manifold from head (have an assistant and be careful — exhaust bolts can be seized, use penetrating oil).
- Remove distributor (mark rotor position relative to housing so timing can be reinstalled correctly) and spark plugs.
- Remove valve cover and loosen rocker shaft nuts/bolts, remove rocker assembly as a unit if possible; mark or keep pushrods and rockers in their original order and orientation.
- Remove pushrods, store in cylinder order (they are matched and must return to same location).
- Loosen head bolts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence, in multiple stages (e.g., a few turns each stage) until free — do not pry or jam.
- Lift the head off with an assistant; watch for stuck areas and gently pry once all bolts are out. Keep head upright to avoid bending or damaging valves.
- Inspect head and block mating surfaces for damage, coolant in cylinders, blown gasket signs, hairline cracks, or warped head.

- Inspection and machine shop work (what to check and why):
- Check head for warpage with a straightedge and feeler gauge; if warp exceeds factory spec (common shop limit ~0.002–0.005" but get factory spec), the head needs resurfacing.
- Have the machine shop pressure test (leak test) the head for cracks and check valve sealing and valve guide wear.
- Have valves lapped or re‑ground and valve seats checked if leaking.
- Clean block mating surface carefully; DO NOT machine the block unless necessary — take measurements first.

- Reassembly notes and critical practices:
- Always use a new head gasket and correct orientation (write “up” or follow markings).
- Clean all bolt holes and threads; use compressed air and a thread chaser or tap if needed so bolts torque correctly.
- Install head and hand‑start head bolts. Tighten head bolts in the factory sequence and in multiple stages to the specified torque. If an angle is specified, use torque angle gauge.
- Reinstall pushrods and rocker assembly in the same positions; set valve lash/specs per manual after initial run or cold as specified.
- Replace intake and exhaust manifold gaskets during reassembly.
- Reinstall distributor to the marked position; verify timing after starting.
- Refill engine oil and coolant fresh, prime cooling system to eliminate air pockets (open bleeder when applicable), and reattach battery.
- Start engine and run to operating temperature while checking for leaks (oil, coolant, exhaust) and monitor for overheating.
- After heat cycles, re‑check torque where manual calls for retorquing if required.

- Post‑repair checks and break‑in:
- Change oil and filter after a short run (recommended) because metal particles or coolant contamination can occur.
- Perform a compression test or leak‑down test to verify cylinder sealing.
- Monitor coolant level and oil level for several hundred miles and re‑inspect for leaks.

- Common parts that often must be replaced and reasons:
- Head gasket — mandatory.
- Intake manifold gasket and exhaust manifold gasket — typically mandatory because they are disturbed.
- Valve cover gasket — replace to avoid oil leaks.
- Head bolts — recommended replacement to ensure correct clamp load.
- Thermostat and coolant hoses — recommended due to age and to avoid future leaks.
- Spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor (22R) or ignition components (22R‑E) — inspect and replace if old since you’ll have the engine apart.
- Oil and coolant — mandatory replacement fluids.
- If head is warped/cracked or valves leak — head machining, valve seals, valve job or even a used/rebuilt head may be required.

- Tips for a beginner to avoid common mistakes:
- Take many photos during disassembly so reassembly is accurate.
- Label every connector and bolt group — use ziplock bags and a marker.
- Don’t mix pushrods or rockers between cylinders — they are fitted to each guide.
- Don’t skip the torque wrench — clamping force is the job’s most critical element.
- If you lack confidence removing/reinstalling the head, have a machinist inspect the head before you attempt reassembly; consider paying a professional for head surface checking and valve service.

- When to get professional help (avoid doing these yourself if unfamiliar):
- If the head is cracked, warped beyond spec, or valves/seats need machining — use a machine shop.
- If you are unsure about torque‑to‑yield bolts or angle tightening procedures — get a mechanic to ensure correct fastener practice.
- If you cannot reliably set valve lash or ignition timing afterward — have an experienced tech finish or check your work.

- Final note (practical procurement):
- Buy a factory service manual or a reliable repair manual (Haynes/Chilton or Toyota shop manual) before starting — it contains exact torque values, sequences, and specs you must follow.


rteeqp73

Simple Maintenance That Can Help Your Toyota Run FOREVER: 22RE Pickup & 4Runner HOW TO adjust your valves, find top dead center (TDC) and replace a fuel filter on a 22RE. Replacing the fuel filter, engine oil and ...

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