- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile or chemical-resistant gloves, and work on a flat level surface with the parking brake on and wheels chocked.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid accidental electrical shorts while working near the firewall.
- Use jack stands if you must get under the truck; never rely on a jack alone.
- Keep rags and a drain pan handy; brake/clutch fluid is corrosive to paint and plastic—wipe any spills immediately and dispose of fluid per local rules.

- Tools you will need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (3/8" drive set, common sizes 8–19 mm)
- Use to remove bolts that secure the master cylinder to the firewall and to remove any brackets. Choose the correct socket size so it fits snugly on the bolt head; use an extension for hard-to-reach fasteners. Turn the ratchet handle smoothly to avoid stripping heads.
- Box-end wrenches and combination wrenches (metric set 8–19 mm)
- Use for nuts/bolts where a socket won't fit. Box end gives full contact around the nut and reduces rounding. Place the wrench fully onto the nut and pull toward you (not pry) for best leverage.
- Flare (line) wrench (6, 8, 10 mm typical)
- Essential for the hydraulic line fitting to the master cylinder. A flare wrench grips more sides of the nut to prevent rounding. Place the wrench over the fitting and break it loose with steady pressure.
- Pliers (needle-nose and regular)
- Use for removing cotter pins, clips, and for manipulating retaining clips on the pedal clevis. Needle-nose lets you reach into tight spots.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Use to pry off small clips, open the master cylinder reservoir cap, or remove small screws. Use the correct tip size to avoid camming out.
- Line/flare nut socket (if available)
- A socket version of a flare wrench can make the job easier in tight spaces. Slide over the line and turn with a ratchet.
- Adjustable wrench (crescent) — as backup only
- Use only if no fixed-size wrench fits; it can slip more easily so use cautiously.
- Bench-bleeding kit (small clear tubing and a container) or:
- Clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the slave cylinder bleed nipple and a small clear bottle or jar.
- Use to route fluid during bleeding so you can see bubbles and prevent air being sucked back into the system.
- Brake/clutch fluid syringe or turkey baster (optional but helpful)
- Use to remove old fluid from master reservoir and to fill new reservoir without making a mess.
- Drain pan and absorbent rags
- Catch old fluid and wipe spills immediately.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- If you have one, use it to torque bolts to factory spec. If not, tighten firmly but avoid overtightening—consult a manual for exact numbers if possible.
- Jack and jack stands (if you must access the slave cylinder under vehicle)
- Use a hydraulic jack to lift and jack stands to support the vehicle securely before working underneath. Place stands on solid points of the frame.
- Vacuum bleeder or one-person pressure/hand pump bleeder (optional but speeds bleeding)
- These tools pull fluid/air out more quickly and reduce the need for a helper.

- Parts you may need (why and what to buy)
- Replacement clutch master cylinder assembly (OEM recommended)
- Required if the master cylinder is leaking, soft or spongy pedal, or internal seals have failed. Buy a direct-fit unit for the Toyota 22R/22R-E — specify year and transmission/manual option at parts counter.
- Master cylinder reservoir cap and rubber diaphragm (often included with new unit)
- Replace if cracked, missing, or if the diaphragm is degraded to avoid contamination and maintain proper pressure.
- New hydraulic hose/line or sealing washer (if damaged)
- Replace the hydraulic line if it is corroded, kinked, or the fittings are rounded. Some fittings use a crush washer or flare seal — replace washers if the old ones are damaged to prevent leaks.
- Pushrod/clevis pin and retaining clip (inspect and replace if worn)
- The clevis pin holds the master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal; if bent/worn, replace to ensure correct pedal action.
- New clutch slave cylinder (optional)
- If the slave cylinder is leaking or old, replace it while you’re bleeding the system—older systems often benefit from replacing both components when one fails.
- DOT-specified brake/clutch fluid (check manual—older Toyotas commonly use DOT 3)
- Use the fluid specified by Toyota for the 22R/22R-E; using the wrong fluid can damage seals. Buy a fresh, unopened bottle.

- Preparations before you start
- Inspect area: locate master cylinder on the firewall on the driver side; identify hydraulic line to slave cylinder and reservoir cap.
- Clean around reservoir cap and fittings to prevent dirt entering system when opened.
- Place drain pan under firewall/hydraulic line connection to catch spills.

- Removal of old master cylinder (bullet sequence)
- Remove any trim or access panels inside the cabin that block access to the clutch pedal clevis; use screwdrivers or sockets as needed.
- Remove the retaining pin/clip at the clutch pedal that connects the pushrod: use needle-nose pliers to remove the retaining clip and pull out the pin or bolt; support the pushrod so it does not fall.
- Open the master cylinder reservoir and remove as much old fluid as possible with a syringe or turkey baster into the drain pan — this reduces spillage.
- Use a flare/line wrench on the hydraulic line fitting at the master cylinder; hold the master cylinder body with a wrench or socket to avoid twisting it when loosening the line.
- Once the hydraulic line is loosened, thread it out by hand and point the hose into your drain pan; cap the line with a clean rag to reduce contamination.
- Remove the mounting bolts that secure the master cylinder to the firewall using an appropriate socket; support the cylinder as you remove the bolts to prevent dropping it.
- Pull the master cylinder out through the engine bay; be careful to not spill residual fluid onto painted surfaces.

- Bench-bleeding and inspection of replacement unit (important)
- If your replacement master cylinder is new and unassembled, bench-bleed it before installing:
- Secure the new master cylinder in a vise lightly (use soft jaws or rags to avoid damage).
- Fill the reservoir with correct DOT fluid.
- Attach short clear tubing from each outlet port back into the reservoir so fluid returns into the reservoir.
- Use the pedal pushrod to slowly depress the master cylinder piston several times until no air bubbles appear in the returning fluid — continue until the fluid runs clear and bubble-free.
- This removes trapped air inside the master cylinder and makes bleeding the vehicle system much easier.
- Inspect replaced parts: check the hydraulic line threads and fitting for damage; replace crush washers or the fitting if necessary.

- Installation of new master cylinder
- Position the bled master cylinder against the firewall; align mounting studs/holes and hand-start bolts to hold it in place.
- Tighten mounting bolts snugly with a socket; if you have a torque wrench, torque to manufacturer spec (consult repair manual). Avoid overtightening that can crack the cylinder flange.
- Reconnect the hydraulic line using the flare wrench; tighten firmly but avoid rounding the fitting or overtorquing. Replace any sealing washers if applicable.
- Reattach the pushrod to the clutch pedal with the clevis pin and retaining clip; ensure the pushrod is correctly seated and the pedal travel looks correct.
- Fill the reservoir to the proper level with fresh DOT fluid.

- Bleeding the clutch hydraulic system (remove air)
- Have a helper sit in the cab and slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there (if alone, use a pedal depressor strap or a one-person vacuum/pressure bleeder).
- Locate the slave cylinder bleed nipple (on the transmission housing or external slave cylinder). Place clear tubing over the nipple and route to a jar partially filled with fluid to prevent air being drawn back in.
- Loosen the bleed nipple about 1/4–1/2 turn with a box wrench; fluid and air will be pushed out by the helper releasing the pedal. Tighten the nipple before the helper presses the pedal again.
- Repeat: helper depresses pedal and holds, you open nipple to let fluid/air out, then close nipple, then helper releases pedal. Continue until clear, bubble-free fluid flows and the pedal feels firm and consistent.
- If using a vacuum or pressure bleeder, follow the tool instructions: vacuum bleeder attaches to the bleed nipple and pulls fluid until bubbles stop; pressure bleeder pressurizes reservoir to push fluid out.
- Keep reservoir topped up during bleeding to avoid introducing new air.
- After bleeding, tighten the bleed nipple securely, wipe area clean, and check for leaks at fittings and the slave cylinder.

- Final checks and cleanup
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Test pedal feel with the engine off: pedal should be firm, not spongy, and should return smoothly. Check clutch engagement by starting the vehicle and gently testing gear engagement in a safe area.
- Inspect all fittings, pedal clevis, and surrounding areas for leaks and proper operation.
- Dispose of old fluid per local regulations and wash rags and tools that contacted fluid.
- Reinstall any removed interior panels and tools.

- Troubleshooting common problems
- Spongy pedal after bleeding: likely remaining air—repeat bleeding procedure, ensure reservoir stayed full, bench-bleed master if not done.
- Leaks at line fitting: tighten flare nut with flare wrench; if still leaking, inspect flare for damage and replace line or fitting sealing washer.
- Pedal doesn’t return: check pushrod and pedal return spring and ensure master cylinder reservoir diaphragm is seated; check for internal seal failure—if pedal sinks slowly with engine off, master cylinder may be bad and needs replacement.
- Continued fluid leak from master: replace master cylinder (do not attempt to patch).

- Why parts are sometimes replaced together
- Master and slave cylinders work as a matched hydraulic system; when one fails (especially if contaminated or old), the other can be weakened. Replacing both prevents repeat labor and ensures clean, reliable fluid and seals.
- Hydraulic lines and washers are replaced if corroded or damaged because leaks usually occur where metal lines contact fittings; new seals avoid future leaks.

- Final safety reminders
- Do not mix different DOT fluids unless permitted by the vehicle manual—mixing can reduce seal life.
- Avoid getting fluid on painted surfaces; if spilled, rinse immediately with water.
- If at any point you are unsure about safety or correct operation, have the vehicle inspected and repaired by a professional mechanic.

- Quick parts checklist to bring to the parts store
- Year/make/model: Toyota pickup with 22R or 22R-E engine, manual transmission
- Clutch master cylinder assembly (OEM recommended)
- Reservoir cap/diaphragm (often included)
- Sealing washers or line fittings if required
- DOT-specified brake/clutch fluid (DOT 3 or as specified)
- Optional: replacement slave cylinder, new clevis pin/clip, bench-bleed kit

- Final short summary
- Replace the master cylinder if it leaks, the pedal is spongy, or seals have failed. Use proper tools (flare wrench, socket set, bench-bleed kit) to avoid damaging fittings and to remove air from the system. Bench-bleed the new master, install, then bleed the system at the slave until no air bubbles remain. Safety gear and careful cleanup are essential.


rteeqp73

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Toyota 22R engine running and coin test 1985 toyota land cruiser RJ70 carburated engine 22R outperforms Rolls Royce in coin balance test :)

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