- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves; brake fluid is toxic and will damage paint.
- Work on a level surface, car in park (or gear) with parking brake on and wheels chocked.
- Never let the master cylinder run dry during bleeding — that will introduce more air and can require bench-bleeding or master-cylinder replacement.
- If you are not confident at any point, stop and get a qualified mechanic. Brakes are life‑critical.

- What this job does and when it’s needed
- A brake fluid flush replaces old, moisture‑contaminated fluid with fresh fluid, restoring boiling resistance and corrosion protection.
- Do this if fluid is dark, if the DOT rating is wrong, if it’s been more than 2 years (typical recommendation), or if the pedal feels spongy after topping off.

- Fluid type
- Use the DOT rating specified in the vehicle manual (older Toyota 22R/22R‑E typically calls for DOT 3; DOT 4 is usually compatible but check the manual). Do not mix DOT 5 silicone fluid with DOT 3/4.

- Tools you need (basic plus why; how to use each)
- Brake fluid (new, correct DOT type)
- Why: replaces contaminated fluid.
- Use: keep bottle sealed until use; keep reservoir topped while bleeding.
- Turkey baster or fluid siphon
- Why: to remove old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir without introducing air.
- Use: squeeze bulb, insert tube into reservoir, draw old fluid into a waste container; do not suck with mouth.
- Clear plastic tubing (inner diameter to fit bleeder nipple) and a small catch bottle
- Why: directs old fluid/hydraulic fluid out of the bleeder without mess and allows you to see bubbles.
- Use: push tubing over bleeder nipple and route into the bottle; keep tubing sealed on nipple when closed.
- Wrenches: metric open/box wrenches including a flare‑nut wrench set (common sizes 8mm–12mm)
- Why: flare‑nut wrench grips brake line/bleeder fittings better; prevents rounding.
- Use: choose correct size; hold hex on bleeder and turn slowly to break it free just enough to open.
- Socket set and ratchet, and a breaker bar (if needed)
- Why: to remove wheels to access bleeders and to remove master cylinder reservoir, if necessary.
- Use: loosen lug nuts before jacking; use appropriately sized sockets.
- Jack and jack stands (and wheel chocks)
- Why: safely lift and support the vehicle while wheels are off.
- Use: use the correct jacking points and always support the car on stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Bleeder tool options (pick one method you can do):
- Gravity/pressure bleeder (recommended if available)
- Why: allows one-person bleeding and reduces risk of pedal collapse; faster and cleaner.
- Use: follow manufacturer instructions — pressurize a reservoir of fresh fluid and attach to master cylinder; open bleeders in sequence until clear fluid flows.
- Vacuum bleeder (handheld)
- Why: one‑person method that draws fluid out; gentler on seals.
- Use: connect to bleeder nipple and pull vacuum while reservoir is topped, then close nipple.
- Two‑person pump‑and‑hold method (basic)
- Why: requires only tools and a helper.
- Use: helper pumps pedal to firm, holds; you open bleeder briefly to let fluid out, then close before pedal is released.
- Brake cleaner and rags
- Why: clean spilled fluid and parts; brake fluid eats paint.
- Use: spray and wipe immediately if fluid contacts paint or components.
- Funnel (small) and paper towels
- Why: help keep reservoir clean while topping up.
- Use: use a clean funnel when adding fresh fluid.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Why: to torque wheels to correct spec when reinstalling.
- Use: tighten lugs in a proper pattern to manufacturer torque spec.
- Disposable container for old fluid and a way to dispose of it properly
- Why: do not pour brake fluid into drains; it’s hazardous waste.
- Use: store used fluid in a sealed container and take to a hazardous waste facility.

- Additional recommended tools (why they help)
- Clear plastic bleeder bottle with check valve or one‑way valve kit
- Why: prevents air getting sucked back into the system during one‑person bleeding.
- Scan tool with ABS bleed function (if truck has ABS)
- Why: necessary to cycle ABS pump/valves to purge fluid in the ABS module.
- New bleeder screws and copper/washer crush washers
- Why: old screws can round or leak; copper washers should be replaced on banjo bolts.

- Inspection/parts that might need replacement and why
- Master cylinder
- Why: if it leaks externally, the reservoir collapses, or internal seals are badly worn/pedal sinks, it may need replacement or bench bleeding.
- How to tell: fluid level dropping with no visible leak, spongey pedal that does not firm after bleeding.
- Rubber brake hoses
- Why: old hoses can swell internally and trap fluid, preventing proper bleeding; externally cracked hoses are unsafe.
- How to tell: inspect for cracks, bulges, or soft spots; replace if any deterioration.
- Wheel cylinders/calipers and seals
- Why: leaking or sticking components contaminate fluid and must be rebuilt or replaced.
- How to tell: brake drag, leaks at caliper/wheel cylinder, uneven pad wear.
- Bleeder screws
- Why: can corrode and seize; a rounded screw cannot be opened/closed reliably.
- How to tell: if screw rounds while trying to open or leaks at threads when tightened.
- Reservoir cap O‑ring or filter
- Why: prevents moisture entry; cracked cap can let contamination in.
- How to tell: visual deterioration or cap not sealing.

- Preparations before bleeding
- Park vehicle, chock wheels, lift and support on jack stands if you need wheel access.
- Clean around the master cylinder reservoir cap to avoid contamination.
- Remove reservoir cap and filter (if any); cover exposed areas to keep dirt out.
- Use turkey baster to remove most old fluid from reservoir so you’ll be starting with mostly fresh fluid when you top up.
- Fill reservoir with fresh fluid and keep it topped during the entire process.

- Bleeding strategy and order
- General rule: bleed the wheel farthest from the master cylinder first, then the next farthest, and finish at the closest wheel.
- How to identify farthest: visually trace brake lines or think: typically opposite rear, driver‑side rear, passenger‑side front, driver‑side front — but verify by layout on your vehicle.
- If vehicle has ABS: a basic wheel‑bleed may not remove all air from the ABS module — consider using a scan tool to cycle the ABS or have a shop perform ABS bleeding.

- Step‑by‑step bleeding (two‑person pump‑and‑hold method — basic and widely available)
- Keep reservoir cap off but covered with a clean rag; keep reservoir topped during whole process.
- Attach clear tubing to the bleeder nipple and place other end into catch bottle partially filled with old fluid to prevent air draw back.
- Have helper sit in the cab and pump the brake pedal several times until firm, then hold the pedal to the floor or a firm position.
- Crack the bleeder nipple open just enough to allow fluid and air to escape; fluid will flow into tubing into bottle.
- Close the bleeder before the helper releases the pedal.
- Repeat pump–hold–open–close cycles until you see clear, bubble‑free fluid from that wheel and the pedal feels firm.
- Keep checking reservoir and top up with fresh fluid frequently so it never runs low.
- Proceed to the next wheel in the correct order until all four are clean.
- After finishing, ensure bleeder screws are firmly tightened (do not overtighten), clean any spilled fluid, and reinstall the reservoir cap.
- Test pedal in parked car — it should be firm. If pedal is soft, re‑bleed or inspect master cylinder and components.

- One‑person methods (if alone)
- Gravity bleeding
- Attach tubing to bleeder and let gravity slowly pull fluid out; very slow, may take a long time and risk allowing contamination if reservoir cap open a long time.
- Vacuum bleeder
- Attach vacuum pump to bleeder nipple, crack open bleeder and draw fluid while keeping reservoir topped.
- Advantage: one person, faster than gravity, less chance of pedal collapse.
- Pressure/pressure‑type bleeding kits
- Pressurize a reservoir of new fluid and feed it into the master cylinder so fluid is forced out bleeders; quick and clean.
- Recommended if you plan to do regular brake work or want a one‑person, reliable method.

- Special notes about ABS and older Toyota 22R / 22R‑E
- If ABS is present, normal wheel bleeding may not purge air from ABS valves; cycling ABS with a scanner while bleeding is often required.
- Older trucks without ABS are simpler — conventional bleeding will usually clear lines.

- Final checks after bleeding
- Road‑test carefully in a safe area: low speed stops to verify firm, consistent pedal feel.
- Inspect for leaks at calipers/wheel cylinders, lines, and master cylinder.
- Recheck fluid level after a short drive and top if needed.
- Properly dispose of used fluid at a hazardous‑waste facility.

- Common pitfalls to avoid
- Letting the reservoir run dry — causes air entry and often requires more complex repair.
- Using wrong fluid type — can damage seals.
- Reusing contaminated funnels/containers — always keep reservoir and tools clean.
- Not replacing deteriorated hoses/bleeders when they’re the root cause — you’ll just repeat the job.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Keep brake fluid off painted surfaces; if spilled, wash immediately with water and brake cleaner per product instructions.
- Store used fluid in a sealed container and take to an approved hazardous waste collection site.

- Quick checklist of replacement parts to have or consider
- Master cylinder (if leaking/soft pedal after bleeding)
- Brake hoses (if cracked or aged)
- Caliper rebuild kits or wheel cylinders (if leaking or sticking)
- New bleeder screws or copper crush washers (if old ones are corroded)
- Reservoir cap/O‑ring if worn
- Fresh DOT‑specified brake fluid (enough to fill reservoir and flush lines; one liter is usually adequate for a full flush but bring extra)

- Final direct instruction
- If you want to proceed today with only basic hand tools and a helper, use a turkey baster to remove old fluid, top with fresh DOT‑specified fluid, bleed wheels from farthest to nearest using clear tubing into a catch bottle, keep the reservoir topped, and replace any leaking or visibly damaged parts. If the pedal remains soft or ABS is present and not cycling correctly, stop and get professional help.

- No questions asked, no extra chatter.
rteeqp73

TOYOTA PICKUP BALL JOINTS & STEERING PARTS REPLACEMENT This one is a 1986. The parts weren't necessarily shot, but I definitely had the horrendous squeaking that bad ball joints have.

TOYOTA 22RE ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1/2 - Teardown and analysis of a poor running 22R Toyota legend... My 1985 Celica GT Coupe was barely running when I bought it, but I knew that I could bring the legendary 22R-E back to life!

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