Tools & materials
- Manifold gauge set (R12/R134a compatible) with low (blue), high (red) and service (yellow) hoses
- Refrigerant recovery machine (required if refrigerant already in system; R12 especially)
- Vacuum pump (30+ CFM preferred) and vacuum gauge / micron gauge
- Refrigerant cylinder (correct type shown on vehicle tag: R12 or R‑134a) and scale for weighing refrigerant
- Electronic leak detector (or UV dye + lamp) and/or dry nitrogen + regulator for pressure/leak test
- Thermometer (air outlet / inlet or clamp thermometer for lines)
- Basic hand tools (wrenches, screwdrivers), hose clamps, safety wire if necessary
- Replacement parts: receiver‑drier / accumulator (always replace when system opened), O‑rings/seals for service ports and fittings, compressor oil (PAG for R‑134a or PAG/ND‑OIL replacement per refrigerant), optional: orifice tube/TXV if contaminated
- Personal protective equipment: safety glasses, nitrile gloves, long sleeves

Safety & legal
- Do NOT vent refrigerant to atmosphere — recovery is required by law in many jurisdictions. R12 handling often requires certification.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Work in a well‑ventilated area away from open flames.
- Do not overpressurize the system. Use regulated nitrogen for leak checks (150–200 psi max typical) and always use a regulator with a relief.
- If uncertain about R12 → R134a conversion or compressor condition, get a certified shop.

Step‑by‑step (typical, concise)
1) Identify refrigerant type & capacity
- Check under‑hood tag for refrigerant type (R12 or R134a) and fill weight. If tag missing, don’t guess — determine with certified recovery/analysis.

2) Preliminary inspection
- With system off, inspect condenser, hoses, compressor clutch, belt condition, fittings, visible leaks, and the receiver/drier or accumulator.
- If heavy contamination, oil loss, or failed compressor suspected, repair/replace compressor and flush as needed before charging.

3) Recover existing refrigerant (if present)
- Attach recovery machine per manufacturer instructions to low and high ports via manifold set. Run recovery to empty system down to safe levels. Do not vent.

4) Replace receiver/drier / accumulator and O‑rings
- Whenever the system is opened to atmosphere replace the receiver/drier (or accumulator) and all O‑rings on disconnects. Lubricate new O‑rings with correct oil.

5) Evacuate and vacuum
- Connect manifold gauges: blue to low port, red to high port, yellow to vacuum pump.
- Purge manifold hoses (briefly open low side to bleed trapped air, then close).
- Run vacuum pump with both low and high valves open until you reach target vacuum (use micron gauge) — aim for 500 microns or better; minimum keep pump on for 30–45 minutes.
- Close manifold valves and isolate system for a 10–15 minute hold test. If vacuum rises significantly, find and fix leaks, then repeat.

6) Leak test (optional/alternate)
- Some techs pressurize with dry nitrogen (100–150 psi) and use soap or electronic detector to find leaks before evacuation. If using nitrogen, bleed off and evacuate thoroughly afterward.

7) Charge with correct refrigerant by weight
- Put refrigerant cylinder on a scale. Connect cylinder to yellow hose. Ensure cylinder valve closed.
- With engine off initially, open refrigerant cylinder valve slightly and purge yellow hose (briefly).
- Start engine, set A/C to max cool, blower high, compressor engaged.
- Charge through the low side (blue) with cylinder upright so vapor enters. Open low‑side valve on manifold to allow refrigerant in while watching scale.
- Add refrigerant to the exact manufacturer weight. If you do not have the weight, add carefully while monitoring low/high pressures and inlet/outlet temps — but charging by weight is the correct method.
- After charging, cap service ports and check system performance: vent temps, cabin temps, suction/discharge pressures within expected ranges (refer to service manual).

8) Final checks
- Check for leaks with detector or UV dye lamp.
- Reinstall any removed panels, verify compressor clutch cycling normally, recheck belt tension.
- Record refrigerant type and weight added on vehicle tag.

How the tools are used (brief)
- Manifold gauge set: blue (low) to low port, red (high) to high port, yellow to vacuum/recovery/charging. Low/high valves control flow; read pressures to monitor system.
- Recovery machine: connects to manifold/yellow and evacuates refrigerant into recovery tank — run until declared empty.
- Vacuum pump + micron gauge: evacuates moisture and air; monitor microns to ensure deep vacuum (500 microns or lower).
- Scale: ensures exact refrigerant mass is charged — place cylinder on scale and add until specified weight.
- Leak detector/UV dye: locates leaks after charging or during leak testing.
- Nitrogen/regulator: for positive-pressure leak checking before evacuation (use a regulator and relief).

Replacement parts commonly required
- Receiver‑drier / accumulator (mandatory when opened)
- O‑rings and sealing washers
- Compressor oil (type depends on refrigerant) if replacing compressor or after system flush
- Compressor, condenser or evaporator only if failed or damaged
- Expansion valve or orifice tube if clogged/contaminated

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Never vent refrigerant to atmosphere — illegal and dangerous.
- Don’t skip receiver‑drier replacement — moisture kills valves and causes poor performance.
- Don’t rely on pressure gauges only to charge; charge by weight to meet spec.
- Don’t mix refrigerants (R12 and R134a) or oils. If converting, follow proper conversion procedure (flush, oil change, TXV/orifice consideration, drier change).
- Under‑ or over‑evacuating: insufficient vacuum leaves moisture; over‑charging reduces cooling and can damage compressor.
- Overfilling: causes high head pressure and compressor damage.
- Charging through the high side or adding liquid refrigerant to a running system without knowledge can damage the compressor — charge via low side vapor unless following a specific service manual method.
- Using a shop vacuum instead of a proper vacuum pump/micron gauge: ineffective at removing moisture.

If you follow the vehicle tag/service manual refrigerant type and weight, replace the receiver/drier and O‑rings, recover existing refrigerant properly, pull a deep vacuum and charge by weight with a manifold set and scale, you will avoid the common failures and legal/safety issues.
rteeqp73

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