Tools & supplies
- Feeler gauge set (metric and SAE; include 0.20 mm and 0.30 mm blades or 0.008" and 0.012")
- Combination wrenches (sizes for adjuster screw & locknut — commonly 8, 10, 12 mm)
- Small flat-blade screwdriver (if adjuster is slotted)
- Socket/ratchet to turn crank (size depends on crank pulley bolt)
- Torque wrench (for valve cover and locknut if you have spec)
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or solvent
- Engine oil for light lubrication of rockers/pushrods
- Replacement valve cover gasket (recommended)
- Anti-seize or thread locker (optional, only per manual)
- Safety gloves and eye protection, rubber chocks

Safety & preparation
1. Work on a cold engine (cold = engine has sat for several hours; clearances measured cold).
2. Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels. Disconnect negative battery lead if you’ll be working near ignition/distributor.
3. Remove air cleaner, intake hoses blocking valve cover. Remove distributor cap or mark rotor position so timing isn’t disturbed (you don’t need to remove distributor but note rotor orientation).
4. Remove valve cover: undo bolts, lift off, clean gasket surface. Replace gasket if brittle or leaking.

Valve clearance/specs (common 2F cold specs — verify with factory manual)
- Intake: 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
- Exhaust: 0.30 mm (0.012 in)
(Confirm these values in your Toyota service manual; different sources vary slightly.)

How the system works (brief)
2F is pushrod/rocker-type (mechanical). Adjustment is made at the rocker arm screw/locknut. You’re setting clearance between valve stem tip/retainer and rocker pad when the valve is fully closed.

Procedure — step-by-step
1. Clean work area. Remove any oil/dirt from around rockers so debris won’t fall in.
2. Rotate engine to bring cylinder No.1 to TDC on the compression stroke:
- Turn crank pulley clockwise with a socket and ratchet. Use timing marks on crank pulley or watch the distributor rotor — rotor should point toward the No.1 spark plug terminal on the distributor cap at TDC compression (both valves closed).
- Confirm by verifying both intake and exhaust rockers for cylinder 1 are loose (not pressing on lifters).
3. Adjustment sequence
- Use the firing order to set subsequent cylinders at compression TDC. The 2F firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Typical adjustment routine: adjust valves on No.1, then 5, then 3, then 6, then 2, then 4 — each at their compression TDC.
4. Adjusting a single valve
a. Select the correct feeler blade (intake or exhaust).
b. Loosen the locknut on the rocker adjuster a few turns so the screw can move freely.
c. Insert the feeler between the rocker pad (or cup) and the valve stem tip/retainer.
d. Turn the adjuster screw until you feel a slight drag on the feeler — steady friction but you can still slide the blade with gentle resistance.
e. While holding the adjuster screw in that position (use screwdriver or holding wrench), tighten the locknut. Hold the screw to prevent it from turning while tightening the nut.
f. Recheck the clearance with the feeler after tightening — rocking the screw slightly if needed; repeat until correct.
5. Repeat for the other valve(s) on that cylinder.
6. Rotate the crank to the next cylinder’s compression TDC (per firing order) and repeat steps 4–5 for all 12 valves.
7. After all valves are adjusted, rotate the engine two full revolutions clockwise and re-check all clearances. Re-adjust any that changed.
8. Reinstall valve cover with new gasket if replaced. Torque cover bolts to spec (light snug to avoid crushing gasket — check manual torque).
9. Reinstall any removed items (air cleaner, distributor cap if removed, reconnect battery). Start engine, listen for abnormal valve clatter; minor tick is normal if cold and will quiet as oil circulates.

How the tools are used (practical tips)
- Feeler gauge: insert blade between rocker pad and valve stem tip. You want a slight drag — not tight, not loose. If too loose, increase gap; if too tight, decrease. Use clean, unbent blades for accuracy.
- Adjuster screw & locknut: hold the screw steady while tightening the locknut so the set clearance doesn’t change. Two tools are often required simultaneously: one to hold the screw (screwdriver or small wrench) and one to tighten the locknut.
- Crank rotation: always rotate engine clockwise (normal running direction) to avoid timing chain lash affecting TDC references.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Adjusting on a warm engine: causes inaccurate clearances. Wait until cold.
- Mistaking TDC exhaust for compression TDC: ensure both valves are seated/rockers loose or use distributor rotor/timing marks.
- Not holding the adjuster while tightening locknut: will change clearance — always hold screw.
- Over-tightening the locknut: strips threads or damages adjuster; use torque wrench to factory spec if available.
- Using wrong feeler thickness or bent gauges: gives incorrect settings — use calibrated, straight blades.
- Rotating engine backwards: can cause improper seating of cam/timing chain slack.
- Not rechecking after two turns: thermal seating and minor movement during tightening can alter clearances.
- Dirty valve cover area: debris can fall into head — clean thoroughly before opening.

When to replace parts
- Replace valve cover gasket whenever valve cover is removed if original is old or leaking.
- Replace rocker arms, pushrods, or adjuster screws if you find excessive wear, scoring, bent pushrods, or stripped adjuster threads.
- Replace valve stem seals if oil consumption or blue smoke indicates worn seals.
- Replace any stripped locknuts or damaged feeler blades.

Final checks
- After running the engine to operating temp, shut off and re-check for leaks at valve cover and listen for abnormal noises. If valves are noisy cold and quiet after warming, clearances are likely okay; if too noisy or poor performance persists, re-inspect.

Note: The inch/mm specs above are commonly used for 2F engines, but always verify exact values and torques from a Toyota service manual for your engine serial/year before finalizing adjustments.
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