Short overview
- The clutch hydraulic system converts your foot force on the clutch pedal into a linear push on the clutch release (throw‑out) assembly. The slave cylinder is the small hydraulic piston mounted at the transmission that pushes the release fork/throw‑out bearing. If the slave cylinder leaks or the piston seals fail, the clutch won’t fully disengage and shifting becomes hard or impossible. Replacing the slave cylinder restores the hydraulic piston that mechanically moves the release fork.

Theory — how the system works (analogy and plain language)
- Analogy: think of the system like two syringes connected by a firm tube filled with oil. Press one plunger (clutch pedal → master cylinder) and the fluid forces the other plunger (slave cylinder) out. Because the fluid is nearly incompressible, a small travel at the master gives controlled travel at the slave.
- Components in flow order: clutch pedal → pushrod → clutch master cylinder (reservoir + piston) → hard steel hydraulic line → flexible hose → slave cylinder piston → release fork/throw‑out bearing → pressure plate → clutch disc → flywheel.
- Master cylinder turns pedal force into hydraulic pressure. The slave cylinder receives fluid pressure and its piston pushes the release fork or directly the throw‑out bearing to move the pressure plate away from the clutch disc so the engine can spin independently of the transmission.

Detailed description of every component you’ll encounter
- Clutch pedal and pushrod: pedal pivots; pushrod transfers foot movement to master.
- Clutch master cylinder: body bolted to firewall, contains a piston and fluid reservoir with cap/diaphragm. When you press the pedal the piston pressurizes fluid.
- Reservoir cap: usually labeled DOT type; keeps contamination out.
- Hard steel hydraulic line: runs under the vehicle or along firewall; fixed, carries fluid to flexible section.
- Flexible hose: rubber hose that allows movement between engine and transmission.
- Union fittings / flare nuts or banjo bolt: connect hoses/lines; banjo uses copper crush washers to seal.
- Slave cylinder: small cylinder mounted on bellhousing (or on release fork pivot). Has a piston, rubber dust boot, mounting bolts, and a bleed screw/valve. Some designs are internal (inside the bellhousing) — on a Toyota 2F it’s usually externally mounted on the transmission housing.
- Pushrod/actuating tip: the part of slave piston that contacts the release fork or bearing.
- Release fork and throw‑out bearing (release bearing): mechanical link that moves the pressure plate.
- Bleeder nipple/valve: small screw with a hole used to let air/fluid out during bleeding.
- Seals, crush washers: replace crush washers for banjo fittings; internal seals are replaced when you put in a new slave cylinder.
- Clutch fluid: DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid—check the cap/manual for the correct type. It’s hygroscopic and corrosive to paint.
- Misc: mounting bolts, dust boot, retaining clip (if present).

Why the slave cylinder fails / symptoms
- Common causes: internal seal wear, corrosion inside cylinder, torn dust boot letting dirt in, external leak at fittings, or line rupture.
- Symptoms: fluid puddle under transmission or near slave; soft or sinking clutch pedal; clutch not disengaging (grinding when shifting); pedal goes to floor; intermittent operation; air in system after leak.
- Why repair is needed: a leaking/slipping slave will allow fluid to escape or air to enter, making hydraulic pressure insufficient so the slave won’t move far enough to disengage the clutch.

Tools & parts you’ll need
- New slave cylinder (correct part number for Toyota 2F)
- New copper crush washers (if banjo fitting) or new union nut/seal as specified
- Flare‑nut/line wrench set (for hydraulic fittings)
- Socket and ratchet set, combination wrenches
- Torque wrench (use allowable values from service manual)
- Jack and jack stands (or vehicle lift), wheel chocks
- Drain pan, rags, rubber gloves, safety glasses
- Brake/clutch fluid (correct DOT type)
- Vacuum bleeder or a helper for manual bleed, small clear hose and jar or catch bottle
- Possibly penetrating oil, wire brush, anti‑seize
- Shop manual or access to service torque specs

Step‑by‑step replacement (beginner friendly)
Safety first:
1. Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Do not rely on a jack alone — always use jack stands.

Access and prepare:
2. Locate slave cylinder: follow hydraulic line from master to transmission bell housing; slave is bolted to bellhousing near clutch fork.
3. Place a drain pan under the slave cylinder and clean around the fittings to keep dirt out of system. Remove any splash shields or heat shields blocking access.

Remove the old slave cylinder:
4. Open the clutch master reservoir cap to relieve pressure and observe fluid level to refill later.
5. Loosen the hydraulic fitting where the hose connects to the slave. Use a flare‑nut or line wrench to avoid rounding the fitting. If it’s a banjo bolt, remove the bolt and be ready to replace the crush washers.
6. Plug or cap the brake line temporarily if you can, or keep the catch pan ready — fluid will drain.
7. Remove the slave cylinder mounting bolts (usually 2). Support the cylinder as you remove the last bolt to prevent it from dropping.
8. Pull the slave cylinder away, taking care not to push the piston in and contaminate the bellhousing or clutch. Inspect the release fork and area for contamination or damage.

Install the new slave cylinder:
9. Compare old and new cylinders to ensure the pushrod length and mounting points match.
10. Fit new crush washers on the banjo bolt (if applicable) or prepare the union fitting. Position the new slave and loosely thread mounting bolts to align.
11. Tighten mounting bolts snugly, then torque to the specification in the service manual. (If you don’t have the manual: tighten securely with care — typical small bolts are often around 15–40 ft‑lb, but verify the exact value.)
12. Reconnect the hydraulic line. If it’s a banjo bolt, insert new crush washers and torque the banjo bolt to spec. Be careful not to cross‑thread or overtighten.

Bleeding the system (remove air)
You must remove all air from the hydraulic line. Two common options:

Two‑person manual bleed:
13a. Fill the master reservoir to the “FULL” mark with the correct fluid.
14a. Have a helper pump the clutch pedal several times and hold it to the floor.
15a. Open the slave bleed nipple slightly with a wrench — fluid and bubbles will escape into a hose into a jar. Close the nipple before the helper releases the pedal.
16a. Repeat: helper presses again, you open/close bleed screw — continue until no bubbles and pedal is firm. Top off the reservoir as needed.

One‑person vacuum or pressure bleeder:
13b. Attach vacuum bleeder to bleeder nipple or use a pressure bleeder on the master reservoir per tool instructions.
14b. Operate until only clean fluid without bubbles flows and pedal feels firm. Keep reservoir topped off.

Bench‑bleeding master (recommended if master was disturbed):
- If you opened or replaced the master, bench‑bleed it before reconnecting lines to prevent introducing air.

Final tightening, inspection and test
17. After bleeding, tighten bleed nipple to spec and clean spilled fluid. Refill reservoir to correct level and install cap.
18. Check all fittings and mounting bolts for leaks. Inspect area for fluid drips.
19. Lower vehicle off jack stands.
20. With engine off, press pedal several times — it should be firm, not spongy. Start engine and test clutch engagement in a safe place: shift into first, try to release clutch slowly — engine should disengage/transmission free to shift. Listen for odd noises.
21. Short road test: verify smooth engagement and no slipping or grinding. Recheck for leaks and fluid level after test drive.

What can go wrong during or after the repair — and how to avoid it
- Air trapped in system → spongy pedal or incomplete disengagement. Avoid by careful bleeding and keeping reservoir full.
- Damaged fittings or rounded flare nuts → use line wrenches and correct sockets, apply penetrating oil before loosening rusted fittings.
- Reusing old crush washers → will leak. Always replace crush washers/hoses if damaged.
- Cross‑threading banjo or mounting bolts → start threads by hand, then use wrench.
- Contamination of clutch friction surfaces with fluid → if fluid sprays on clutch disc/pressure plate, the clutch can slip and need replacement. Keep clean and don’t depress clutch if piston is fully out leaking onto clutch components.
- Over‑pressurizing with improper tools → follow tool instructions; do not use compressed air directly on reservoir.
- Damaging pushrod travel/adjacent parts → ensure new slave piston doesn’t bottom out on bearing and that travel is correct.
- Safety hazards: vehicle falling off jack stands. Use stands, not just a hydraulic jack.

Tips for a beginner
- Keep a clean working area. Brake fluid eats paint — wipe spills immediately.
- Have extra rags and fluid on hand. Keep the reservoir capped when not working to avoid contamination.
- If the slave cylinder is rusted or frozen to mount, apply penetrating oil and let it soak; don’t force bolts.
- Take photos before removing lines to help route and reassemble correctly.
- If you’re uncertain of torque values, get the factory manual or a reputable repair manual for the 2F application.

When you should also inspect or replace other items
- If the master cylinder is old or contaminated, consider replacing it or at least bench‑bleeding. Air or contamination in the master will keep you chasing problems.
- Check flexible hoses for swelling or cracking; steel lines for corrosion.
- Inspect the release fork, pivot ball, and throw‑out bearing for play or wear.
- If hydraulic fluid has been contaminated or very old, flush the system and replace with fresh fluid.

Final sanity checks
- No leaks at fittings, slave body, or reservoir.
- Firm pedal feel and full clutch disengagement.
- Smooth shifting in and out of gear at idle and while driving.
- Recheck fluid level after a short drive and again after a few days of operation.

If anything feels unsafe or confusing, stop and consult a factory service manual or an experienced technician. Good luck — and work safely.
rteeqp73

FJ40 F engine info Thought I'd make a video showing the older F motor with the Siamese port head pre 1967.

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