Tools & supplies
- Basic hand tools: 8–19 mm sockets, ratchet, extensions, open/box wrenches, screwdriver set, torque wrench (low-range).
- Hex/Allen key set and small flat punch/awl (some adjusters use hex or slot).
- Transmission band adjustment SST or improvised tool: thin flat strap/steel bar with hooked end or long flat-blade screwdriver plus box wrench to hold adjuster (details below).
- New inspection-cover gasket (recommended), small amount of RTV if required.
- Engine/transmission fluid (for top‑up) and drip pan.
- Jack, jack stands (rated), wheel chocks, creeper, shop rags, safety glasses, gloves.
- Brake cleaner or solvent, wire brush (for cleaning mating surfaces).
- Replacement parts if required: band(s) (if lining worn), locknut/adjuster hardware (if damaged), cover gasket.

Safety precautions (read & follow)
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels front and rear.
- Use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- If procedure requires engine running, have a helper in the driver’s seat, keep clothing/jewelry away from moving parts, and use a long tool to avoid reaching over hot/moving components.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Have a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Keep hands and tools clear of the driveshaft and rotating parts when the engine is running.
- If you’re unsure about any step, stop and consult the OEM shop manual.

Notes about model differences
- “2L / 3L / 5L” are engine codes; the transmissions paired to these engines on older Toyota trucks/cabs typically are A‑series 3‑speed automatics with two bands (low and reverse) accessible through side inspection covers. Exact adjuster orientation, gear position for adjustment, torque and back‑off values vary by transmission model/year. Always confirm exact specs from the factory service manual for your vehicle. The following is the correct, generic step‑by‑step method used for Toyota A‑series type transmissions.

Step‑by‑step band adjustment (generic A‑series method)
1) Warm the transmission
- Drive or idle the engine until normal operating temperature (~60–80 °C / 140–175 °F). Warm band linings seat better; cold adjustment is inaccurate.

2) Secure vehicle and prepare
- Park on level ground. Chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Jack and support vehicle safely on jack stands to access transmission side cover.
- Place drip pan under transmission in case fluid leaks when cover removed.

3) Locate and remove inspection cover
- Find the small rectangular inspection cover on the side of the transmission (usually 4–6 bolts).
- Remove bolts, carefully pry the cover off. Expect fluid to leak a little — keep rags handy.
- Remove the gasket or clean mating surfaces; replace gasket when reassembling.

4) Identify adjuster and band
- Inside the cover you will see the band and an adjuster (an eccentric stud/bolt with a locknut or a slotted head). There are usually two covers/adjusters (one for low/front band, one for reverse/rear band). Confirm which band controls which gear in the manual; typical practice:
- Adjust the low band with selector in 1 / L.
- Adjust the reverse band with selector in R.
(Confirm for your transmission.)

5) Position selector and prepare to adjust
- With helper in driver’s seat (if required), start engine and idle (if OEM procedure requires engine running). Many manuals require the engine running at idle for band seating during adjust. If engine must be running, keep it at idle and do not rev.
- Place the gear selector in the gear specified by the manual for the band you are adjusting (commonly L for low band, R for reverse band). Hold the selector firmly in position while adjusting.

6) Using the adjustment tool — how it’s used
- The adjuster is typically an eccentric stud or slotted/eared screw with a locknut. The special SST is a thin steel strap or hooked bar that fits behind the band to pull it tight while you rotate the adjuster; alternatively you use a screwdriver/hex key to turn the adjuster and a wrench to hold the locknut.
- Procedure:
a) Insert the SST/tool so its hooked end pulls the band toward the drum so it’s snug against the drum (this removes slack and seats the band). The tool essentially simulates the hydraulic servo that clamps the band.
b) While maintaining the band snug with the tool, rotate the adjuster clockwise until you feel the adjuster just come into contact or light resistance (the point where the band begins to clamp the drum).
c) Immediately hold the adjuster in that position and tighten the locknut against the adjuster to secure it. Use appropriate wrench and a torque value from the manual (locknuts are low‑torque; if you don’t have the manual, tighten to a light value — usually in the 8–20 Nm / 7–15 ft‑lb range — but confirm OEM spec).
d) After locknut is tightened, remove the SST/tool.

- If the adjuster uses a set number of turns/back‑off specification instead of “feel”:
- Turn the adjuster in until it contacts the drum, then back off the specified amount (e.g., 1/4 turn or a specified mm clearance). Tighten the locknut while holding the adjuster at the backed‑off position.
- Use the factory manual for the exact back‑off turns or clearance; do not guess.

7) Reinstall cover & refill / check fluid
- Clean mating surfaces; install a new gasket or apply correct RTV sealant if required.
- Reinstall inspection cover and tighten bolts to a snug, even torque.
- Check transmission fluid level and top up to spec if any fluid was lost. Many band adjustments require checking fluid level with engine running and selector in P — follow OEM procedure.

8) Functional check
- With vehicle still supported safely, start engine and move through all gears several times, pausing briefly in each gear. Check for harsh engagements, slipping, or abnormal noises.
- Road test at low speed. After a short run, recheck for leaks and verify correct operation. Re‑check band adjust if service manual requires retorque or re‑check after road test.

Replacement parts & when to replace
- Inspection cover gasket: replace each time you remove cover.
- Band(s): replace if lining is thin, cracked, burned or metal-to-metal contact occurs. Band replacement requires more disassembly (remove servo and band) and is not a simple external adjustment.
- Locknut/adjuster hardware: replace if threads rounded or locknut won’t hold.
- Transmission fluid: replace or top up if contaminated or low.
- If excessive slippage or burnt smell persists after adjustment, band likely worn/damaged and must be replaced.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Adjusting on a cold transmission — leads to incorrect clearance. Always warm first.
- Over‑tightening the band — causes dragging, overheating and premature wear. Use OEM torque/back‑off specs.
- Failing to hold adjuster while tightening locknut — adjuster moves and setting is lost.
- Using the wrong gear for the band — double‑check which band corresponds to which selector position.
- Not replacing the cover gasket — leads to leaks and dirt ingress.
- Running engine at high RPM during adjustment — hazardous and can damage transmission.
- Failing to re‑check after road test — some manuals require a final re‑check and retorque.
- Attempting band lining replacement without correct tools/knowledge — band replacement requires disassembly and proper servo springs; if lining worn, consider a rebuild or professional shop.

Final notes
- Exact adjuster geometry, number of turns/back‑off, locknut torque and whether engine must be running during the adjustment vary by transmission model and year. Use the factory service manual for the precise values and sequence for your specific vehicle.
- If you encounter burnt bands, metal debris in fluid, or repeated slipping after adjustment, do not continue to adjust — the transmission likely needs partial or full overhaul.

No extra commentary.
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