Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric socket set (including deep sockets), extensions, universal.
- Torque wrench (capable up to at least 150 Nm) + torque-angle gauge if bolts are angle-type.
- Breaker bar.
- Combination wrenches.
- Screwdrivers, pliers, pry bar.
- Engine hoist or strong helper (head is heavy).
- Camshaft/gear holding tool or appropriate pry-bar/photo-marking to lock timing.
- Feeler gauges.
- Straightedge and feeler gauge (for head deck warpage).
- Dial indicator or micrometer (optional for valve/cam checks).
- Scraper, wire brush, lint-free rags, solvent.
- Thread-chaser/tap for head-bolt holes (careful).
- Gasket scraper / sealant remover.
- Anti-seize, assembly lube.
- New head gasket set (specific to 2L/3L/5L), new head bolts (recommended), intake & exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gasket, injector O-rings/seals, thermostat, coolant, engine oil and filter.
- New timing belt/chain and water pump if old or disturbed.
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, jack stands, wheel chocks, drain pan.

Safety & prep
- Work on a cool engine. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support vehicle safely with jack stands if under car. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Drain coolant and engine oil into approved containers. Dispose legally.
- Label and bag all bolts/hose connections. Take photos for reassembly.
- Work in a well-ventilated area; diesel fuel and cleaners are hazardous.

High-level procedure (step-by-step)
1) Confirm diagnosis
- Perform a compression/leak-down test or use chemical test to confirm blown head gasket. Note symptoms (white smoke, coolant loss, oil contamination).

2) Remove ancillary components
- Remove air intake plumbing, battery, intercooler/hoses (if fitted).
- Remove intake manifold and exhaust manifold. Keep bolts in labeled groups.
- Remove fuel lines/injector connections (mark positions). Depressurize fuel system first.
- Remove coolant hoses from head and thermostat housing.
- Remove alternator, power steering pump, and any brackets blocking head removal. Move but do not stress fluid lines.

3) Remove valve cover and timing components
- Remove valve cover(s) and rocker assembly as required to access cam/timing.
- Align timing marks and immobilize camshaft(s) and crank (use OEM method). Mark belt/chain position before removal.
- Remove timing belt or chain tensioner and cam sprocket if necessary to release head (note: some L-series engines use timing chain/gears — follow engine-specific steps).

4) Remove head
- Loosen head bolts in reverse of the tightening sequence, in several passes, working from the outer bolts toward the center to avoid distorting the head.
- Lift the head straight up. Use an engine hoist or a helper — the head is heavy. Beware of knocking the head against other parts.
- Immediately cover and protect the exposed block and head faces from dirt.

5) Disassembly & inspection
- Remove the old head gasket and clean mating surfaces with care — do not gouge the metal.
- Inspect the head for cracks (especially between valves and injector ports), warpage (use straightedge and feeler gauge), and valve condition.
- Inspect the block deck for nicks, corrosion, or damaged bolt threads.
- Check cylinder bores for scoring and pistons for damage.
- If warpage or cracks are beyond spec, machine the head or replace. Typical acceptable warpage is on the order of 0.05–0.10 mm (check service manual).

6) Preparation for reassembly
- Chase threads in the block for head bolts; ensure threads are clean and dry. Replace head bolts with new ones if they are torque-to-yield (common) or if any stretch/damage is present.
- Clean the head and block mating surfaces thoroughly; remove all old gasket material and oil/coolant residue.
- Fit new valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust gaskets, injector seals, etc., as applicable.
- If cam/timing work was done, inspect timing components and replace belt/chain, tensioner, and water pump if worn.

7) Install new head gasket & head
- Place new head gasket (correct side up) on the block, aligning dowels.
- Lower head straight onto gasket without sliding.
- Install head bolts finger-tight.

8) Torque sequence & specification
- Tighten head bolts in the specified criss-cross sequence from center outward. Do incremental steps:
- Example procedure (confirm exact figures in the factory manual): snug all bolts, torque to Stage 1 value in sequence, then Stage 2 value, then final angle (if required). Many Toyota L-series head bolts are tightened in multi-stage torque or torque + angle; if bolts are torque-to-yield, replace them and use torque-angle method.
- Use a calibrated torque wrench and torque-angle gauge for accuracy.
- Do not use an impact gun on final head bolts.

9) Reassembly
- Reinstall timing components ensuring correct timing marks and proper belt/chain tension.
- Reinstall rocker assembly/valve cover, intake, exhaust, fuel system components, cooling hoses, thermostat, and accessories.
- Replace oil filter and oil (you likely contaminated the oil when coolant entered or vice versa).
- Refill engine coolant with correct type/concentration.

10) Final checks & start-up
- Prime the fuel system (diesel) per procedure to avoid air. Bleed the cooling system thoroughly to prevent hotspots (raise the front of car or use bleed screws).
- Reconnect battery. Start engine and watch oil pressure, coolant temperature, and listen for abnormal noises.
- Check for leaks (fuel, oil, coolant). Re-torque head bolts only if specified by manual (some engines call for re-torque after warm-up; many modern bolts must not be re-torqued).

11) Post-repair items
- After 50–100 km or first hour of operation, recheck torque on accessible fasteners and check coolant level. Change oil and filter once running and if coolant contaminated engine oil during repair.

How the tools are used (important details)
- Torque wrench: Use for final tightening in the proper sequence and values. Set to specified Nm and apply smooth steady force. If using torque-angle, first torque to the lower Nm then use angle gauge to add the specified degrees for each bolt in sequence.
- Breaker bar: Use to initially break bolts loose or to snug bolts before using torque wrench; do not use to over-torque final setting.
- Cam holding tool / locking: Prevents camshaft rotation while removing sprockets; use to avoid bend/deform valves or timing error. If OEM tool unavailable, use method from service manual — never rely on timing marks alone.
- Straightedge & feeler gauge: Lay across head deck; use feeler to measure running clearance at multiple points across the surface to detect warp.
- Thread-chaser: Clean bolt holes to ensure accurate torque and prevent bolt shear. Do not chase in the block if excessive corrosion — repair or re-tap as needed.
- Engine hoist: Support the head while lifting straight up to avoid edge contact or dropping it.

Replacement parts required (recommended)
- Head gasket (engine-specific).
- Head bolts (strongly recommended, especially if torque-to-yield).
- Intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gasket, injector seals/O-rings.
- New engine oil and oil filter (mandatory).
- Coolant, thermostat (recommended).
- Timing belt/chain, tensioner, water pump if replaced or near service interval.
- Any damaged valves or valve seals as discovered.
- Optional: new rocker arm support bolts, EGR gasket, exhaust studs if corroded.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not replacing head bolts: If bolts are TTY, reuse risks failure. Replace.
- Improper bolt sequence/torque: Causes head warp and leaks. Always use correct sequence and incremental torquing.
- Dirty threads: Leads to incorrect torque readings — clean and dry threads or chase them.
- Not checking head/block for straightness/cracks: Reinstalling without machining a warped/cracked head will fail again.
- Incorrect timing on reassembly: Mark timing components before removal; use the cam locking tool; double-check timing before start.
- Air trapped in cooling system: Causes overheating and head gasket failure — properly bleed system.
- Reuse old gaskets/seals: Leads to leaks.
- Overheating after repair: If coolant not bled or thermostat faulty, engine may overheat and damage new gasket.
- Cross-threading head bolts or using impact on final torque: Destroys threads or over-stretches bolts.

Notes specific to 2L/3L/5L (L-series diesels)
- These are robust diesel heads but follow the same principles: clean mating surfaces, check for cylinder head warpage/cracks, and respect timing system alignment. Many earlier L-series engines use long service life bolts but replacement is still recommended when in doubt.
- Valve clearance: On reassembly check and adjust valve lash per spec (cold engine). Use feeler gauges and adjuster nuts; incorrect lash causes poor running.

Final reminder
- Consult the factory service manual for the exact torque values, bolt sequence diagram for your specific L-series (2L/3L/5L), and any engine-specific steps (timing locking tools, valve adjustment clearances, and head machining limits). Follow shop safety and environmental regulations.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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