- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe shoes. Work on a flat, level surface.
- Chock wheels that remain on the ground.
- Never rely on a jack alone to support the vehicle — always use properly rated jack stands placed under the vehicle’s specified lift points.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Follow the lift kit manufacturer instructions and the vehicle service manual for torque values and removal/installation procedures.

- What a “suspension lift kit” means (brief)
- Raises vehicle ride height by replacing or adding suspension components (coils, springs, leaf springs, shackles, U-bolts, shocks, control arms, track bar, brake line brackets, etc.).
- Installation changes geometry; some parts nearly always replaced for safety and reliability (shocks, U-bolts, brake lines, bump stops, alignment-sensitive parts).

- Tools you should have (each tool described and how to use it)
- Hydraulic floor jack (2–3 ton rating recommended)
- Lifts the vehicle. Use the vehicle’s designated lift points. Pump handle to raise; open release valve to lower slowly. Never leave the vehicle on the jack alone.
- Jack stands (matched to jack capacity, 2 or 4)
- Support the vehicle once lifted. Place on solid ground under manufacturer-specified frame or axle points and lower the vehicle onto them. Verify stability before working underneath.
- Wheel chocks (rubber or solid blocks)
- Prevent rolling. Place behind and in front of wheels remaining on ground.
- Torque wrench (click-type or beam; range covering common fasteners, e.g., 10–200 ft·lb)
- Tighten bolts to specified torque. Set required torque, snug bolt, then apply slowly until the wrench clicks. Use correct socket and avoid cheater bars or overtightening.
- Breaker bar (18–24 inch)
- Apply more leverage to loosen stubborn fasteners. Use smooth, steady force; avoid sudden jerks to prevent rounding bolt heads.
- Socket set (metric and SAE; deep and shallow; 3/8" and 1/2" drive)
- Attach sockets to ratchet or breaker bar to remove nuts/bolts. Use deep sockets for studs (U-bolts) and correct size for snug fit.
- Combination wrench set (open and box end)
- Hold the mating side of fasteners while loosening or tightening with socket. Use correct size to prevent rounding.
- Ratchet and extensions
- Fast removal/reinstallation of bolts in tight spaces. Use extensions to reach recessed fasteners.
- Impact wrench (air or battery) — optional but useful
- Speeds removal of nuts and bolts; use sockets rated for impact use. If using an impact, still finish critical bolts by torque wrench to exact spec.
- Pry bar / large flat screwdriver
- Used to separate components (springs from seats, control arms from mounts). Combine with care; avoid sudden releases.
- Hammer / mallet
- Persuade stuck parts free. Use a rubber mallet to avoid damage; use a ball-peen or hand hammer for stubborn bolts.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Soak nuts/bolts to ease removal, especially on older vehicles with rusted fasteners. Apply and wait before attempting removal.
- Wire brush and rag
- Clean mating surfaces and threads before reassembly.
- Spring compressor (for coil springs) — professional-grade and mandatory if coils are under load
- Compress coil springs safely to remove or install them. Follow tool instructions exactly. Improper use can cause spring ejection and severe injury. If you don’t have proper compressor, have a shop handle coil removal.
- C-clamp or bench vise (for some bushing work)
- Compress bushings or hold small parts while working.
- Punch and drift
- Remove cotter pins and push out bolts/dowels.
- Hammer and chisel set (for stubborn U-bolts or rivets)
- Remove rusted components carefully.
- Torque angle gauge or torque adapter (if required by manufacturer)
- Some bolts require angle tightening in addition to torque. Use as specified.
- Measuring tape and marker
- Measure ride height and mark alignment/camber/caster points before disassembly for reference.
- Brake line pliers and adjustable wrenches
- Disconnect and re-route brake lines if necessary; use flare nut wrench for brake fittings to avoid rounding.
- Electrical tape, zip ties, and retaining clips
- Secure brake lines, ABS wires, and hoses after repositioning.
- Replacement hardware kit (new nuts, bolts, U-bolts, washers) — strongly recommended
- Old rusted/stretched fasteners should be replaced. Use kit supplied with lift or correct grade hardware (often grade 8 for suspension).

- Extra tools often required and why
- Coil spring compressor
- Mandatory for safe removal/installation of compressed coil springs. Without it, springs can release violently.
- Press or bushing tool
- If replacing control arm bushings or ball joints, a press or bushing tool speeds the job and avoids damage.
- Ball joint separator / pickle fork
- Separates ball joints and tie rod ends cleanly. Useful when disconnecting steering and suspension.
- Impact driver / welder / torch (only for very stubborn rusted hardware; caution)
- May be required to free seized bolts but increases risk of damage and injury; use as last resort.
- Wheel alignment tools or professional alignment shop
- Alignment is required after a suspension lift to ensure safe handling and tire wear. Alignment equipment is specialized; plan to take the vehicle to an alignment shop.

- Parts commonly replaced during a lift and why
- Shock absorbers (longer or specific to lift)
- Shocks are often too short after lift and must be replaced with longer or kit-specified units for full travel and damping performance.
- U-bolts (longer)
- Required when lifting leaf-sprung axles to secure axle to spring pack at the correct height. Old U-bolts can be corroded or stretched; always replace with correct length and grade.
- Shackles and hanger brackets (for leaf spring lifts)
- May be included in kit to change spring angle or provide additional lift. Replace if worn or as supplied.
- Spring perches / coil spacers / springs
- Kit-specific components used to add lift. Replace old springs if sagged or damaged.
- Brake lines (extended) or brake line relocation brackets
- Lifting increases distance between axle and body; stock brake lines can be overstretched. Replace lines or fit relocation brackets to maintain safe slack.
- Track bar / drag link / control arms / steering links
- Lift alters geometry; longer or adjustable components may be required to maintain correct steering alignment and avoid bump steer.
- Sway bar drop brackets or extended sway bar links
- Maintain sway bar function by repositioning connection points to the new height.
- Bump stops and dust boots
- New bump stops prevent over-compression; shocks’ dust boots protect the shocks at the new travel range.
- Ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings (if worn)
- If worn, replace during lift to avoid future failures. Suspension disassembly is a good time to replace aging wear items.
- Alignment shims or adjustable cam bolts
- Used to correct camber/caster changes after lift.

- Preparatory steps (what to do before starting)
- Read the lift kit instructions and vehicle service manual for jack points, torque specs, and sequence.
- Take photos of the OEM suspension and steering components before removal to reference during reassembly.
- Measure and record original ride height and alignment settings if possible.
- Inspect suspension for worn parts (bushings, ball joints, shocks, brake lines) and order replacements before starting.

- High-level installation sequence (follow kit and manual for exact order)
- Loosen lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground; raise vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands; remove wheels.
- Support the axle with a secondary jack or stand so it won’t drop uncontrollably when components are removed.
- Remove components as required by the kit (examples below — follow your kit’s itemized list)
- Disconnect sway bar links or remove sway bar from axle/body if necessary.
- Remove shocks (top and bottom fasteners).
- For leaf springs: unbolt U-bolts, remove and replace springs/shackles/perches, and install new U-bolts. For coil springs: compress coils with spring compressor, remove upper/lower spring seats and replace springs or spacers per kit instructions.
- Relocate or extend brake lines and ABS wires; install relocation brackets or new longer lines if specified.
- Install new track bar, control arms, or drop brackets if included; use new hardware where specified.
- Reinstall or replace shocks with the new longer units and fit any supplied bump stops or dust covers.
- Reattach sway bar with supplied drop brackets or links.
- Lower the axle slowly onto new components, ensuring springs are seated correctly and all bushings align.
- Install new nuts and bolts finger-tight first, then torque all suspension fasteners to the manufacturer or kit-specified torque in the proper sequence.
- Refit wheels, lower vehicle off jack stands, torque lug nuts to wheel manufacturer spec.
- Check clearance all around (tires vs. body, axle vs. steering components, brake hoses).
- Take vehicle for a slow test drive and listen/feel for unusual noises. Re-check fasteners after 50–100 miles and re-torque as required.

- Specific usage tips for key operations and tools
- Using a torque wrench
- Always calibrate/verify it’s set to zero after use. Tighten bolts in stages and in the recommended pattern. Apply steady force until the click is heard/ felt, then stop. Don’t use torque wrench as a breaker bar.
- Using a breaker bar
- Attach correct socket, stand clear of moving parts, pull evenly and avoid sudden impact motions. After loosening, use the torque wrench to re-tighten to spec.
- Working with compressed coil springs
- Use only a professional-grade spring compressor designed for the spring diameter and coil spacing. Compress springs evenly on both sides. Keep body parts clear of compressed coils. If you are not fully confident, have a shop handle coil removal.
- Removing rusted bolts
- Apply penetrating oil and allow soak time. Use proper-size sockets/wrenches to avoid rounding. Heat the nut (with cautions) if penetrating oil and force fail, and be mindful of surrounding hoses/lines.
- Replacing brake lines
- Use flare nut wrenches on brake fittings to reduce rounding. Bleed the brake system after installation and test brakes at low speed. Use DOT fluid specified by manufacturer.
- Aligning components
- If adjustable components are installed, set them to factory baseline or kit recommendations before alignment. Take vehicle to an alignment shop for final adjustments.

- When professional help is advised (and why)
- If you lack a spring compressor or experience with compressed springs — have a professional do coil spring work.
- If steering geometry parts (track bar, drag link, tie rods) need fabrication, bending, or re-centering — professional steering alignment and safety checks are required.
- If frame modifications, welding, or cutting are required by the kit — a certified welder/body shop is safer.
- Always get a professional wheel alignment after completing a suspension lift.

- Common problems and how to avoid them
- Brake line overstretching — install relocation brackets or longer lines supplied by kit.
- Bump steer and poor steering feel — use adjustable or properly sized steering components and have professional alignment.
- Premature wear of shocks and bushings — install shocks sized for the lift and replace worn bushings during installation.
- Loose hardware after break-in — re-check and torque suspension fasteners after the first 50–100 miles and again after 500 miles.

- Post-installation checks
- Verify all fasteners are torqued to spec.
- Check brake function thoroughly at slow speed.
- Inspect for fluid leaks, rubbing, or interference.
- Perform or schedule professional wheel alignment.
- Re-check U-bolts and major fasteners after 50–100 miles.

- Final strong recommendations
- Obtain and follow the lift kit manufacturer’s printed instructions and the factory service manual for your exact Toyota model and year.
- Replace worn or corroded hardware during the job; suspension hardware is a critical safety item.
- If at any point you are unsure or a component is under high load (coil springs, rusted mounts, steering geometry), stop and consult a professional.

- Quick list of parts you should plan to have on hand before starting
- Kit-specific lift components (springs, spacers, shackles, brackets)
- New shocks sized for the lift
- Longer U-bolts (leaf spring lifts)
- Brake line relocation brackets or longer brake lines
- New nuts/bolts/washers (grade specified by kit)
- New sway bar links or drop brackets
- Bump stops and dust boots
- Replacement bushings, ball joints, or tie rod ends if worn

- Closing (no extra questions)
- Follow kit instructions and service manual torque specs. If you don’t have the right tools (notably a spring compressor or torque wrench), get them or have the work done professionally to avoid life-threatening failures.
rteeqp73

This week at Mr Landcruiser #14 - 2H Turbo BJ40, 12HT swaps and more! Another week work begins here at Mr Landcruiser, so it's time for another yard update! Join Paul for a tour through the workshop ...

2H to 12ht conversion 60 series Landcruiser HJ FJ60 Some information on doing an engine swap on your 60 series Landcruiser that you might find helpful. let me know if i can be of ...

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