- Safety first (read this): wear gloves and eye protection; work on a level surface; never go under a vehicle supported only by a jack — always use rated jack stands or ramps; hot parts and fluid can burn; used fluid is hazardous waste — collect and dispose at a recycling center. If unsure, stop and get a professional.

- Overview of procedure: drain transmission fluid, remove and clean pan (if present), inspect magnets and fluid for metal debris, replace filter and pan gasket if applicable, reinstall and refill to correct level. For older Toyota B-series gearboxes, avoid high-pressure “machine” flushes — a pan drop + multiple drain/refill cycles is safer.

- Tools you need and why (detailed descriptions and how to use each):
- Floor jack: a hydraulic device to lift the vehicle. Use to raise one end so you can place jack stands. How to use: pump handle to raise until lift point contact, lift only at manufacturer-specified jacking points. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Jack stands (pair, rated for vehicle weight): sturdy supports to hold the car after jacking. How to use: set height, lower vehicle onto stands, check stability by rocking vehicle slightly.
- Wheel chocks: wedges to block wheels you’re not lifting. How to use: place behind/forward of wheels to prevent roll.
- Ramps (optional alternative to stands): drive vehicle onto ramps for front/rear access. Use on level ground; set parking brake and chocks.
- Drain pan (large-capacity oil catch pan): shallow wide container to catch used transmission fluid. How to use: position under drain plug/pan, empty pan into sealed container for recycling.
- Socket set and ratchet (common sizes, typically 10–19 mm): used to remove drain plug, pan bolts, and other fasteners. How to use: select correct socket, pull firmly on ratchet; use extensions for recessed bolts.
- Wrenches (combination/open-end): for bolts/nuts where sockets don’t fit. How to use: fit snugly and apply even force; avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type): required to tighten bolts to manufacturer specs to avoid leaks or stripped threads. How to use: set target torque, tighten until wrench clicks; do final pass in sequence. Consult service manual for correct values.
- Screwdrivers and pry bar (small): to break gasket seal and help remove pan gently. How to use: use flat screwdriver or thin pry to lift pan lip in multiple spots, don’t pry on transmission housing to avoid damage.
- Gasket scraper/razor blade: to remove old gasket material from pan and transmission flange. How to use: carefully scrape flat surfaces clean, avoid gouging metal.
- Clean rags and brake cleaner or solvent: to clean pan, magnets, mating surfaces. How to use: spray solvent, wipe until clean and dry.
- Funnel and fluid transfer pump (manual hand pump or squeeze bottle): to refill transmission when fill plug is not easily accessible. How to use: attach hose to pump, insert into fill hole or dipstick tube, pump until full to level.
- Gloves (nitrile/mechanic gloves): protect skin from fluid and grime.
- Safety glasses: protect eyes from fluid splash and debris.
- Magnet(s) or magnetic pick-up tool (optional): to check for metallic particles in pan and on drain plug magnet. How to use: pass magnet over fluid/deposits and clean off metal filings.
- Replacement drain plug crush washer/crush gasket (if used on drain plug): seals the drain plug to prevent leaks. How to use: replace old washer with new when reinstalling plug.
- New pan gasket or RTV gasket maker (if needed): seals pan to transmission. How to use: if gasket-type pan, install new gasket; if using RTV, follow manufacturer cure instructions and apply bead to clean surface evenly.
- Replacement transmission filter (if applicable to your gearbox): some transmissions have internal or cartridge filters behind the pan. How to use: remove old filter, fit new filter into place, ensure O-rings or seals are lubricated if required.
- Shop manual or factory service manual (strongly recommended): gives fluid type, capacity, torque specs, fill level method, and fastener patterns. How to use: consult for model-specific instructions and torque values.
- Fluid specification and correct transmission fluid (OEM type or equivalent gear oil): essential for correct lubrication and gear life. How to use: purchase correct grade and quantity; use a funnel or pump to fill to the required level.
- Disposable containers and labels for used fluid: for legal disposal and recycling.

- Step-by-step procedure (concise, follow safety items above):
- Prepare workspace: level surface, chock wheels, lift vehicle using jack and place on jack stands or drive on ramps.
- Locate transmission drain plug and fill plug/dipstick: consult manual or look on case sides. Confirm which is drain vs fill.
- Warm up gearbox slightly by running engine/short drive (optional): warms fluid to drain more thoroughly — be cautious with hot parts.
- Position drain pan under drain plug/pan.
- Remove drain plug or loosen pan bolts: let fluid drain fully. If there is no drain plug, remove several pan bolts and lower pan carefully to control flow.
- Remove pan completely if applicable: watch for fluid; lower gently, inspect magnets and note metal debris (fine particles normal, large chunks are bad).
- Remove and inspect filter (if present): discard old filter. Clean mating surfaces.
- Clean pan, magnets, and interior area: use rags and solvent to remove sludge. Replace pan gasket or clean and reseal per manual.
- Replace drain plug crush washer and reinstall drain plug: torque to spec.
- Install new filter and pan/gasket per instructions: tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern to specified torque.
- Refill with correct type and amount of fluid: use funnel or hand pump into fill hole/dipstick tube until level specified by manual (fill with vehicle level and on wheels or specified position).
- Start engine and cycle through gears (for manual transmissions, shift through gears; for automatics, follow manual instructions) to circulate fluid, then recheck level and top off to proper mark.
- Inspect for leaks, then lower vehicle off stands and perform a test drive. Recheck level after short drive and after unit has returned to ambient temperature (if manual follow manual procedure for level check).
- Dispose of used fluid at recycling center.

- Extra/optional tools and why they’re useful:
- Transmission jack (for major transmission removal): needed only if removing the whole gearbox — not for a simple fluid change.
- Creeper (low rolling platform): makes working under car easier and safer.
- Inspection light: helps you see drain and fill plugs.
- Thread chaser or helicoil kit (only if you find damaged threads): to repair stripped threads — requires skill; otherwise get professional help.

- Parts that commonly must be replaced and why:
- Transmission fluid: replaced because it breaks down and gets contaminated with metal particles and sludge; ensures correct lubrication and heat dissipation.
- Filter (if present): traps debris; a clogged filter reduces lubrication and can starve gears — replace every fluid service or when dirty.
- Pan gasket or RTV: old gaskets harden and leak — replace to ensure a proper seal.
- Drain plug crush washer: crush washers deform to seal — replace to prevent leaks every time.
- Seals (input/output shaft seals) and shifter shaft seal: replace only if leaking — seals are common leak points on older gearboxes.
- Pan (if badly corroded or cracked): replace to prevent leaks or future failure.
- Magnet or bolt if damaged: some drain plugs have magnets built in that can be damaged; replace if stripped.

- What to watch for that indicates bigger problems:
- Metal chunks or heavy metal scoring on pan/plug magnet: indicates internal wear — consider professional inspection.
- Burning smell in fluid or fluid very dark/black: may indicate overheating or major wear.
- Unusual noises, grinding, slipping, or leaks after service: stop and consult a mechanic.

- Fluid disposal and cleanup:
- Store used fluid in sealed containers and take to a recycling or hazardous-waste center. Do not dump on ground or in drains.
- Clean spills immediately with absorbent and dispose properly.

- Final notes (very short): follow the model/year service manual for exact fluid type, capacity, torque specs, and fill procedure. If you want, refer to a factory shop manual or a reputable repair guide for your specific Toyota 3B/B/11B/13B installation to get exact numbers and diagrams.

(End of instructions.)
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These steps explain, in order, how a disc brake pad replacement works and why each action fixes the fault. Applies to Toyota light trucks regardless of engine (3B, B, 11B, 13B) — braking theory is the same. No extra chatting.

Preparation / tools (quick)
- Tools: jack and stands, wheel chocks, lug wrench, ratchet/sockets, hex/Allen or Torx for caliper bolts if used, C‑clamp or piston spreader, wire/hanger to support caliper, brake cleaner, wire brush, high‑temp brake grease, flat screwdriver, torque wrench, brake fluid, bleeder kit (if needed), new pads and hardware.
- Safety: vehicle on level ground, wheels chocked, parking brake set (but release when working on rear integrated parking brake). Open master cylinder cap before compressing pistons to avoid reservoir overpressure.

1) Pre‑inspection (visual, before disassembly)
- Do: check pad thickness, rotor surface (grooves, scoring), caliper boots, brake hose, fluid level.
- Theory: identifies root cause (e.g., thin pads ± glazed rotor = pad wear; uneven pad wear = sticking caliper or seized guide pins; fluid low = possible leak or excessive wear). Replacing pads without diagnosing the cause can lead to repeat failure.

2) Wheel removal (loosen lug nuts before jacking)
- Do: slightly loosen lug nuts with wheel on ground, lift vehicle, place on stands, remove wheel.
- Theory: gives safe access to caliper/rotor; removing wheel lets you inspect rotor runout and pad condition.

3) Remove caliper from carrier
- Do: undo caliper slide/guide bolts or carrier bolts; hang caliper on suspension with wire—don’t let it hang by the brake hose.
- Theory: caliper clamps the pads to the rotor. Removing it allows pad replacement and inspection. Hanging by hose strains the hydraulic line and can cause leaks.

4) Remove old pads and hardware; inspect mating surfaces
- Do: take out pads, shims, clips; inspect abutment rails, anti‑rattle hardware, pad sensors.
- Theory: pads are friction material bonded to a steel backing. Inspecting the hardware and mounting points tells you whether binding, corrosion, or missing clips caused uneven wear/noise.

5) Retract the caliper piston(s)
- Do: open master cylinder cap; use a piston tool or C‑clamp to slowly push the piston(s) back into the caliper. For rear calipers with integrated parking brakes, rotate the piston inwards using the correct tool.
- Theory: new pads are thicker and need clearance. Retracting the piston returns hydraulic fluid to the reservoir. Opening cap prevents hydraulic overpressure. If piston won’t retract, the piston or seals may be seized — simply fitting pads without fixing this will leave a dragging or non‑functional brake.

6) Clean and lubricate slide pins and contact points
- Do: remove slide pins, clean wire/brush, apply high‑temp brake grease to pins and abutment contact points; replace worn clips/shims.
- Theory: guide pins let the caliper float so both pads contact the rotor evenly. Dirt or corrosion causes sticking, which leads to one pad wearing faster or sustained drag. Proper lubrication restores free movement and even wear.

7) Fit new pads and hardware correctly
- Do: install new pads, shims, anti‑rattle clips and any wear sensors in the right orientation.
- Theory: new friction material restores designed pad thickness and ensures uniform contact. Shims reduce vibration and help heat control; missing/shifted shims cause noise or uneven transfer layer on the rotor.

8) Reinstall caliper and torque bolts to spec
- Do: reposition caliper over pads/rotor and tighten guide/caliper bolts to manufacturer torque.
- Theory: proper clamping secures the assembly, prevents bolt loosening, and keeps caliper aligned so pads wear evenly and braking forces are transmitted properly.

9) Inspect rotor and decide: reuse, resurface, or replace
- Do: measure thickness, check runout and surface condition. Replace or machine if grooved, warped, or under minimum thickness.
- Theory: a smooth, flat rotor provides an even friction surface. Deep grooves, glazing or warpage prevent correct pad seating and reduce contact area — that causes reduced braking efficiency, vibration, and accelerated pad wear. New pads on a damaged rotor will not restore proper braking.

10) Refit wheel, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec
- Do: tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to the vehicle manufacturer’s torque spec after lowering.
- Theory: correct wheel fastening prevents rotor runout and ensures safe operation.

11) Restore and check hydraulic system; pump pedal and bleed if required
- Do: top up reservoir if needed; pump the brake pedal with the engine off until firm and pads seat; if pedal feels spongy or lines were opened, bleed the brakes (one or all wheels as needed).
- Theory: piston retraction moves fluid back; if air enters the system it compresses and causes a soft pedal and reduced braking force. Bleeding removes air so brakes operate with incompressible fluid, restoring pedal firmness and predictable stopping.

12) Bedding (break‑in) new pads
- Do: perform a series of controlled stops from moderate speed (e.g., 30–50 km/h) to low speed with moderate deceleration, repeated several times without coming to a full stop hard each time; then allow cooling.
- Theory: bedding transfers a thin, even layer of pad friction material onto the rotor, optimizing friction coefficient and preventing glazing. Proper bedding restores consistent pedal feel and maximum stopping power.

13) Final checks and road test
- Do: check for leaks, abnormal noise, uneven braking, parking brake function; re‑check caliper bolts and wheel torque after short drive.
- Theory: verifies that caliper moves freely, hydraulic integrity is intact, and pads/rotor are functioning as a system. Re‑torquing prevents loosening after initial heat cycles.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- Worn pads: replacing pads restores design friction thickness so the caliper can apply correct clamping force and produce required braking torque.
- Uneven wear/noise/drag: cleaning and lubricating slide pins and replacing clips/shims removes mechanical binding and vibration paths that cause uneven pressure, noise, or dragging.
- Loss of pedal firmness: bleeding or evacuating air restores incompressible fluid in the hydraulic circuit so force from the pedal reaches the caliper piston reliably.
- Poor braking / pulsation: resurfacing or replacing rotors provides a flat, smooth mating surface necessary for consistent friction and heat dissipation.
- Overall: the repair reestablishes the intended mechanical alignment, friction interface and hydraulic integrity that produce predictable, effective braking.

When pad replacement alone won’t fix it
- Seized piston or caliper, collapsed flexible hose, leaking seals, warped rotor below minimum thickness, or ABS/modulator faults — those require caliper rebuild/replacement, hose replacement, rotor replacement, or hydraulic system repair. Replacing pads without addressing these will result in recurring faults.

That is the ordered theory and method for a correct pad replacement and why each action cures the underlying brake faults.
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