Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric hand tool set: ratchets, 3/8" & 1/2" drives, deep/shallow sockets, extensions, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 200 Nm / 150 ft·lb).
- Angle gauge (if factory uses angle-torquing).
- Socket for head bolts & fuel/injector line fittings; impact socket set not for final torque.
- Feeler gauge set.
- Straightedge (1 m or long) and feeler blades / 0.002" (0.05 mm) feeler.
- Dial indicator (runout) or precision straightedge for warpage.
- Gasket scraper (plastic and thin metal), brass wire brush, shop rags.
- Wire brush and thread chaser (M8/M10 etc.) or 8 mm–12 mm taper tap for bolt holes.
- Protective eye/hand wear, nitrile gloves.
- Drain pans, funnel, clean containers for bolts/parts labeling.
- Injector line clamps/plugs to prevent contamination.
- Valve spring compressor (only if removing valves).
- Engine hoist or appropriate lifting aid if head is heavy.
- Engine support or jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Sealant (per service manual), anti-seize, threadlocker (per spec).
- New head gasket set (head gasket, intake/exhaust gaskets, valve cover gasket), new head bolts recommended, new injector sealing washers, new manifold bolts if corroded, new thermostat, coolant, engine oil and oil filter.
- Compression tester and coolant/combustion leak tester (optional for diagnosis/verification).

Safety precautions
- Work on a cool engine. Hot coolant/steam causes severe burns.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Drain coolant and engine oil into approved pans; dispose properly.
- Support engine if removing mounts or accessory brackets that support it.
- Use jack stands for vehicle support; never rely on jack alone.
- Keep open ports (injector holes, oil/water passages) covered/plugged to prevent contamination.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; ventilate if using solvents/cleaners.

Overview / considerations specific to Toyota 3B / B / 11B / 13B series
- These are B-series Toyota diesel engines (mechanical injection on many variants). Procedure is conventional: remove accessories, fuel lines, manifolds, rocker assembly/pushrods, then the head. Heads must be checked for flatness/warpage and cleaned before fitting new gasket. Always confirm factory torque values and sequence in the Toyota service manual for the exact engine code and year — torque specs and whether bolts are single-use will be in the manual.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Drain coolant and engine oil into pans; note/label drained fluids.
- Remove air cleaner assembly and intake ducting.

2) Remove intake & exhaust accessories
- Remove air intake manifolds, turbo lines (if fitted), intercooler piping.
- Remove exhaust manifold heat shield and exhaust manifold (unbolt from head). Protect threads and ports from contamination; cap openings.

3) Fuel & injection system
- Loosen and carefully remove high-pressure injector lines. Cap lines and injector ports immediately.
- If mechanical injection pump, loosen pump drive linkage if needed and remove any bracket interfering with head removal. Mark positions of any lines/linkages.

4) Valve cover, rocker assembly & pushrods
- Remove valve cover(s).
- Mark and remove rocker arms and pushrods in order, keeping them matched to their original positions (pouches/boxes numbered) — do not mix.
- If the head design has rockers on a shaft assembly, remove the shaft and rockers as a unit and retain position order.

5) Any sensors, hoses, brackets
- Remove any coolant hoses, heater hoses, sensors, timing case covers or auxiliary brackets attached to the head. Label wiring connectors.

6) Loosen head bolts
- Clean around head bolt heads to prevent debris falling into engine.
- Loosen head bolts in the reverse order of tightening (spiral outward from center) gradually in several incremental steps — do not remove any single bolt fully until all are loosened a bit. Use breaker bar to avoid snapping bolts.
- Remove head bolts and lift out. Some heads are heavy — use hoist or assistance.

7) Remove head & immediate inspection
- Lift the head straight off. Keep a clean padded surface to place head.
- Inspect gasket surfaces. Do not pry or scratch mating surfaces. Remove old gasket material carefully with plastic scraper and brass brush.
- Inspect head for cracks (especially around valve seats and exhaust ports) and check warpage: place straightedge across multiple directions and use feeler gauge. Service limit warpage typically ~0.05–0.10 mm (check manual). If beyond spec, machine (resurface) or replace head.

8) Cylinder block inspection
- Inspect cylinder bores for scoring; cross-hatch and ring seals. Check for coolant/oil passages for signs of contamination or erosion.
- Check head bolt threads in block — chase with correct thread chaser and clean with solvent. Replace if stripped. Ensure bolt holes are dry and clean.

9) Prepare head & block for installation
- If surfacing required, send to machine shop; validate flatness. Remove all debris, carbon and gasket material.
- Clean coolant passages and oil return passages thoroughly. Blow out with compressed air (cover openings) or solvent; cap ports to prevent debris entering.
- Replace any corroded studs/bolts.

10) New parts & head bolts
- Install new head gasket from correct set — verify orientation (dowels/markings "UP" or "this side up"). Never reuse head gasket.
- Replace head bolts if specified by service manual or if bolts show stretch/corrosion — recommended for reliability. If bolts are torque-to-yield (check manual), absolutely replace.

11) Head installation & torqueing
- Place head gasket on block dowels, then carefully lower head onto gasket ensuring alignment.
- Lightly oil bolt threads and under-head seating area if specified (follow manual — some call for dry threads or a specific coating). If manual calls for threadlocker/anti-seize, use as directed.
- Insert head bolts finger-tight.
- Tighten bolts in the correct sequence (spiral from center outward). Tighten in several increments: for example, snug all bolts, then tighten to 30% of final spec, then 60%, then final torque. If factory requires angle-torquing, do final stage(s) by specified degrees with angle gauge.
- Use torque wrench for final passes; do not use impact tool for final torque.
- Example tightening method (only an example — verify exact numbers for model): Step 1: 30 Nm, Step 2: 60 Nm, Step 3: final 95–115 Nm OR Step 3: 50 Nm + 90° + 90° angle. Confirm exact specs in service manual.

12) Reassembly of valve train & timing
- Reinstall rocker assemblies and pushrods in original order. Set valve clearances as specified cold (e.g., clearance values given in manual).
- Reinstall valve covers with new gaskets and torque bolts to spec.
- Reattach intake and exhaust manifolds with new gaskets; torque bolts in proper sequence.

13) Fuel lines & timing
- Reattach injector lines using new copper sealing washers if required; torque to spec.
- Reinstall injection pump linkages and re-check timing marks; re-time injection pump if disturbed. Prime the fuel system (lift pump or bleed screws) until no air then check for leaks.

14) Final connections, fluids & checks
- Reconnect coolant hoses, sensors, wiring.
- Replace oil filter and install fresh engine oil. Replace coolant with correct type and mixture.
- Reconnect battery negative.
- Before starting, crank engine to build oil pressure but do not run long — check for leaks (oil and fuel) and unusual noises.
- Start engine, let idle and observe coolant temperature, listen for knock. Re-check torque on accessible head fasteners after initial heat cycle only if manual specifies (some engines require re-torquing; many modern ones do not).
- After warm-up, shut down and re-check coolant and oil levels; inspect for external leaks and verify valve clearances once engine cooled (if specified).

How tools are used (practical notes)
- Torque wrench: use for final fasteners only; set to correct Nm/ft·lb and tighten smoothly to value. For multi-step tightening, use the wrench on each bolt in the sequence between steps.
- Angle gauge: attach to head bolt socket or stud and rotate bolt exact degrees for angle-torque steps. Reset after each bolt.
- Breaker bar: used to initially break loose old bolts; do not use for final accurate torque.
- Straightedge & feeler: lay straightedge across head in several directions; run feeler to check flatness gap. Feeler gauge shows warpage; follow manual limit.
- Gasket scraper (plastic) & brass brush: remove old gasket without gouging surface. Metal scrapers will damage surfaces.
- Thread chaser: clean bolt holes; do not use a cutting tap unless replacing threads. Blow out holes with compressed air afterward.
- Dial indicator: measure head warpage or valve seating if needed.

Common pitfalls / what to avoid
- Reusing the old head gasket — causes instant failure. Always use new correct gasket.
- Not confirming factory torque and sequence — leads to leak and head distortion.
- Reusing stretched head bolts — they may not clamp correctly; replace if spec requires.
- Scratching mating surfaces with metal scrapers — leads to sealing failures.
- Allowing dirt/debris in injector holes, oil or coolant passages — causes engine damage.
- Mixing up pushrods/rockers — causes valve/timing problems; keep in order.
- Ignoring warped head — resurfacing often necessary; skipping leads to repeat failure.
- Improper fuel line sealing (no new copper washers) — causes leaks and air in lines.
- Not checking/setting valve clearances after reassembly — leads to poor running and damage.
- Not re-priming fuel system before cranking — leads to hard starts and wear to injection pump.
- Not inspecting cylinder bores, valves, and seating — a blown head gasket can indicate deeper problems like a cracked head or worn bores.

Replacement parts checklist (recommended)
- Head gasket (mandatory)
- Full gasket set: intake, exhaust, valve cover, thermostat, water pump seals
- Head bolts (recommended if specified or if any deformation/stretch)
- Injector sealing washers (recommended)
- Thermostat (recommended)
- Coolant and engine oil + oil filter (mandatory)
- Intake/exhaust manifold gaskets if removed
- Any corroded studs/bolts

Final checks & break-in
- After reassembly and run-in, monitor oil and coolant for cross-contamination (milky oil, coolant with oil), and compression/combustion stability.
- Retorque procedures: follow factory guidance — some engines require re-torquing after some heat cycles, others state bolts are single-use and not to be re-torqued.

End.
rteeqp73

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