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Toyota 3B B 11B 13B engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & parts
- Basic metric hand tools: 8–14 mm sockets, ratchet, extensions, combination wrenches.
- Torx/hex set (some sensors use Torx).
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers, small pick.
- Needle-nose pliers.
- Multimeter (DMM) — or oscilloscope for best signal check.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster) and small wire brush.
- Clean shop rags and brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner.
- New camshaft position sensor (OEM or equivalent) and new O‑ring/seal.
- Small amount of dielectric grease and light anti-seize (optional).
- Torque wrench (recommended).
- Jack & stands or ramps if needed for access.
- Safety: safety glasses, gloves.

Safety precautions
- Work on a cold engine. Hot components burn.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, block wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before unplugging electrical connectors.
- Keep dirt/metal shavings out of open engine passages — lay clean rags around the work area.
- Use jack stands if vehicle raised. Never rely on a jack alone.

Overview (what you’re doing)
- Locate sensor on cylinder head/timing cover area, remove electrical connector and retaining bolt(s), pull sensor out, replace O‑ring if used, install new sensor, reconnect wiring, clear codes and verify signal.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Prepare
- Park, cool engine, set parking brake, block wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Gather tools and replacement sensor + O‑ring.

2) Access
- Remove any obstructing components: air intake ducting, engine covers, battery tray, or valve cover trim as needed for clear access to the cam sensor. On B‑series engines the sensor is mounted on the head/timing cover area; remove whatever blocks access.
- Keep fasteners organized.

3) Clean area
- Blow or brush loose dirt away from sensor area. Use brake cleaner to remove oil so contaminants won’t fall into the engine when sensor removed.

4) Unplug connector
- Depress locking tab and pull electrical connector straight off. If connector is brittle, press tabs carefully; use contact cleaner if sticky.

5) Remove sensor mounting bolt(s)
- Remove retaining bolt(s) with the correct socket/Torx. If bolt is seized, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak. Don’t torque excessively — the sensor housing is plastic on many units.

6) Extract sensor
- Pull sensor straight out. Note orientation and depth. Some sensors have an O‑ring; watch for it and don’t damage the sealing surface. If the O‑ring stays in the bore, remove it carefully with a pick.

7) Inspect bore and wiring
- Inspect sensor bore for scoring, debris, or old O‑ring fragments; clean with lint‑free rag and electrical contact cleaner. Check the wiring harness and connector pins for corrosion or damage and repair as needed.

8) Prepare new sensor
- Lightly lube the new O‑ring with clean engine oil or dielectric grease (don’t over‑grease). If sensor came with a new O‑ring, use it — do not reuse old O‑ring.
- Apply a thin film of anti‑seize to the bolt threads if desired, but avoid getting anti‑seize on the sensor sealing face.

9) Install new sensor
- Insert sensor straight into bore until seated. Ensure it sits flush and in the same orientation as the old unit.
- Start mounting bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading, then torque to manufacturer spec. If you don’t have the spec, snug the small bolt — typically around 6–10 N·m (53–88 in·lb) for small sensor bolts — but do not over‑torque.

10) Reconnect connector & reassemble
- Connect the electrical connector until it clicks. Apply a dab of dielectric grease to connector pins if desired.
- Reinstall any removed components (air duct, covers, battery tray). Reconnect negative battery terminal.

11) Test & verify
- Clear any stored fault codes with scan tool.
- Crank / start engine and watch for check engine light. Use a scanner to monitor camshaft position signal and that it’s present and steady. With DMM: Hall sensor should switch between ~0 and ~5 V while cranking; inductive sensor will show AC millivolt pulses.
- Road test and re‑scan for codes. Confirm idle and drivability are normal.

Testing the sensor before replacing (optional, quick checks)
- Visual: cracked housing, oil intrusion, damaged connector = replace.
- DMM test (Hall‑type):
- With key ON (engine off) measure reference: one terminal should have ~5 V, one ground, the signal will toggle when cranking.
- Inductive type:
- Back‑probe signal wire while cranking and look for AC mV pulses (tens to several hundred mV).
- If you have an oscilloscope you’ll see a clean square wave (Hall) or pulses (inductive).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing old O‑ring: causes oil leak or sensor mis‑seating — always replace O‑ring.
- Pulling on the wiring instead of connector: breaks wires — depress tab and pull on connector body.
- Over‑torquing the mounting bolt: cracks plastic sensor body — snug only.
- Cross‑threading bolt: start by hand to avoid damaging threaded boss.
- Allowing dirt into bore: clean thoroughly before removal and cover open bore with a clean rag if delays occur.
- Not checking wiring: a new sensor won’t fix a broken harness or corroded pins.
- Using wrong sensor: order exact OEM part number or confirmed equivalent; physical fit and electrical pins must match.
- For seized bolts: heating the bolt/head can help but avoid heating the sensor boss or plastic; if using penetrating oil, let soak.

Replacement parts & consumables
- Camshaft position sensor (correct part for 3B/B/11B/13B).
- O‑ring / seal (usually supplied with sensor or sold separately).
- Optional: connector repair kit if pins/cavity damaged.
- Cleaners, dielectric grease, anti‑seize.

If after replacement the engine still shows cam signal faults, re‑check wiring continuity to the ECU, grounds, and ECU input. That completes the procedure.
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