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Toyota 3B B 11B 13B engine factory workshop and repair manual

Goal: remove, inspect, repair or replace the exhaust manifold on a Toyota 3B / B / 11B / 13B diesel engine. This guide explains every component you’ll touch, why the job is needed, how the system works, what can go wrong, and a clear step-by-step procedure for a beginner mechanic. Follow safety advice exactly.

Quick overview / theory (plain language)
- What the exhaust manifold does: each cylinder forces hot exhaust gas out after combustion. The manifold is a cast metal “collector” that takes gas from each exhaust port and funnels it to the downpipe/turbo/exhaust system. Think of the manifold as several gutters (one per cylinder) joined into a single downspout.
- Why repair is needed: thermal cycling (heat and cool), vibration, corrosion, and mechanical stress can crack the cast manifold, warp the mating surface, or blow the manifold gasket. An exhaust leak reduces engine efficiency, makes noise (sharp ticking or blowing), can damage nearby parts, introduce dangerous fumes into the cab, and in turbo engines will hurt turbo performance. Leaks at the manifold also alter exhaust back-pressure and can cause black smoke, loss of power, or increased fuel usage.
- How it affects the engine: good sealing keeps exhaust flow smooth into the turbo or downstream pipe, maintains correct pressure pulses, and protects components from heat. A leak is like a hole in a garden hose: the flow escapes early and the rest of the system doesn’t get the right pressure/flow.

Main components (what you will see and work with)
- Cylinder head exhaust ports: cast/ machined openings on the head where exhaust exits each cylinder.
- Exhaust manifold (cast iron): body with individual runners and a collector flange that joins to the downpipe or turbo inlet.
- Exhaust manifold gasket: sits between the head and the manifold. Often metal/composite, sometimes multi-layer. Seals the joint.
- Studs / bolts / nuts: fasten the manifold to the head. Many Toyota diesels use studs and nuts; some use bolts.
- Heat shield: thin stamped metal that protects wiring/hose and reduces radiant heat.
- EGR pipe (if equipped): exhaust gas recirculation pipe often connects to manifold; has its own flange and gasket.
- Downpipe / turbo flange: connection at the collector to the remainder of the exhaust. Could be bolted flange, v-band, or simple flange with gasket.
- Sensors: diesel B-series may not have O2 sensors on old models, but could have exhaust temp or other sensors near manifold—unplug if present.
- Support brackets and hangers: metal brackets that stabilize the manifold or downpipe.

Symptoms that indicate repair is needed
- Loud ticking, tapping, or a metallic blowing noise from the manifold area, especially on cold start or during load.
- Visible soot or black carbon around the head/manifold seam or downpipe flange.
- Smell of exhaust in engine bay or cab.
- Loss of power, poor throttle response, or black smoke (diesel).
- Broken or missing nuts/studs, visible cracks in the cast manifold.
- Engine bay heat damage: melted hoses/wires near manifold.

Tools and materials (basic)
- Socket set (including deep sockets), wrenches, ratchet, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (essential)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 specialist) and brushes
- Safety glasses, gloves, ear protection
- Jack and jack stands or ramps (if you need underside access)
- Hammer and chisel or stud extractor (for broken studs)
- Wire brush, gasket scraper, non-marring scraper
- Shop rags, brake cleaner or solvent
- New manifold gasket (always replace), new nuts/studs if corroded
- Anti-seize compound (high-temp) only if manual allows — it changes torque readings
- RTV high-temp sealant only if factory manual calls for it (usually not used on manifold gaskets)
- Replacement manifold (if cracked) or welding equipment if you will weld cracks (welding cast iron requires skills)
- Thread chaser or tap to clean threads
- Safety: heat-resistant gloves, respirator if cleaning heavy carbon

Preparation and safety
- Work on a cold engine. Exhaust parts retain heat for a long time.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal to prevent accidental starts and protect sensors.
- Park on level ground and use parking brake; use jack stands if lifting.
- Ventilate area; diesel soot is dirty and potentially harmful—wear respirator when scraping.
- Take photos during disassembly so reassembly is easier.

Step-by-step removal (typical procedure)
1. Cool and disconnect battery.
2. Access and clear area:
- Remove any obstructing parts like air intake, intercooler piping, or engine covers.
- Remove heat shield(s) over manifold.
- If equipped, unbolt and remove the EGR pipe at the manifold flange (mark orientation).
- Unplug any sensors near the manifold (exhaust temp sensor) and tuck wiring out of the way.
3. Spray penetrating oil on all manifold nuts/studs and downpipe flange bolts. Let penetrate (15–30 minutes).
4. Support the downpipe (don’t let it hang on the manifold). Remove bolts at the collector/downpipe flange.
5. Loosen nuts/bolts holding manifold to head. Work them loosen gradually in a pattern (do not snap one off quickly). Often start from outer nuts and work inward or vice-versa to prevent warping—take your time.
6. Remove the manifold. It will be heavy and coated in carbon/soot. Note orientation and any crushed gaskets or spacer.
7. Inspect studs: if studs remain in head and are in good condition, leave them. If broken or severely corroded, you’ll need to extract and replace.
8. Clean mating surfaces: use a gasket scraper, wire brush, and solvent to remove gasket material from the head and manifold flange. Do not gouge the head surface. Clean bolt threads with a thread chaser.
9. Inspect manifold:
- Look for cracks, especially between runners and at the flange or near bolt holes. Carbon black lines often show leak paths.
- Check flange flatness: use a straightedge across the flange; if warped beyond small tolerance, replace manifold or machine it flat.
- Check ports for heavy carbon build-up.
10. Inspect head flange: if damaged or heavily pitted, it may need machine work by a machine shop.

Repair or replace
- Gasket replacement: always use a new gasket. Make sure it’s the correct part.
- Replace bolts/studs/nuts if corroded or stretched. Use OEM grade fasteners.
- Welding cracks: welding cast iron is specialized; usually better to replace the manifold rather than attempt amateur welding. If professional weld is done, ensure proper preheat and post-weld procedures (professional shop).
- If manifold flange or head required machining, take to a machine shop.

Reassembly (typical procedure)
1. Clean everything again. Dry and free of oil/solvent residues.
2. If using new studs, install per manual. If reusing studs, ensure threads are clean. Lightly coat threads with anti-seize only if the manual allows; remember anti-seize reduces friction and changes torque outcome.
3. Fit new gasket on head (ensure correct orientation). Place manifold on studs/bolts.
4. Hand-start nuts/bolts. Make sure manifold is seated evenly.
5. Torque in sequence: tighten gradually in stages to final torque using an alternating pattern from the center outward (or as specified in manual). Final torque: look up factory spec for your exact engine and bolt size. If you must estimate: many small exhaust flange nuts torque between ~25–60 Nm depending on bolt size—do not guess; use factory spec.
6. Reconnect downpipe, EGR pipe, sensors. Replace heat shield.
7. Reconnect battery.

Initial testing and final checks
- Start engine and listen for leaks: a ticking or puffing noise indicates a leak.
- With a helper, rev the engine and inspect the manifold seam for soot or escaping gas. Use a length of rubber hose as a stethoscope to pinpoint leaks (do not put your ears against the manifold).
- After a short run, re-torque fasteners if factory requires re-torque after heat cycle.
- Check for unusual smoke, smells, or overheating.

Common problems and traps (what goes wrong)
- Seized or broken studs: most common issue. Extraction can be time-consuming and may require drilling/tapping or helicoils.
- Rounding off nuts: use correctly sized sockets; use impact gun carefully if necessary but finish torque with wrench.
- Warped or cracked manifold: cast iron can crack repeatedly if welded poorly. Replacement is often the right call.
- Over-torquing: can cause stud/stud-hole damage or strip threads in the head.
- Using anti-seize incorrectly: it changes clamping torque—if you use it, reduce target torque per manufacturer guidance.
- Improper gasket or incorrect orientation: will leak.
- Not replacing EGR/exhaust gaskets: leads to multiple leak paths.
- Heat damage to nearby wiring or hoses: remove or protect before heating manifold.

Quick troubleshooting checklist after reassembly
- No ticking from manifold under idle and load.
- No soot on seams after a few minutes under load.
- No smell of exhaust in cab.
- Normal engine performance, no new error lights (if equipped).

Time and difficulty estimate
- Beginner with basic tools and no stuck hardware: 2–4 hours.
- With seized studs, heavy corrosion, or restricted access: 6+ hours or a shop job.

Final tips for beginners
- Take photos before and during disassembly—reassembly is much easier with pictures.
- Always replace the gasket; it’s cheap insurance.
- If a stud breaks, don’t rush—removal may need a drill press and extraction tools; consider a machine shop if you lack tools.
- If the manifold is cracked, replacing is usually cheaper and more reliable than home welding unless you have iron-welding experience.

Safety recap
- Work on a cold engine. Wear eye protection and gloves. Use jack stands. Ventilate. Disconnect battery. Use proper torque tools and follow manufacturer specs where available.

That’s the full picture: what the manifold is, why leaks happen, the components, step-by-step removal and reassembly, inspection points, common failures, and safety tips. Follow factory torque specs and procedures for your exact engine when available.
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