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Toyota 4Y engine factory workshop and repair manual download

What you’re doing here: replacing the rear (or front) leaf springs on a Toyota that uses the 4‑leaf/4Y platform (common Toyota pickup/forklift style suspension). I’ll explain what each part is, why the repair is needed, how the system works, what can go wrong, and then give a clear, step‑by‑step procedure written for a beginner mechanic. Read everything through before you start, work deliberately, and follow the safety cautions.

Quick theory (plain language)
- A leaf spring is a pack of curved, flat steel leaves stacked and clamped together. It acts like a long spring/beam that carries the vehicle weight, resists axle movement, and controls ride height and axle location. Think of it like a laminated wooden ruler: when you press the middle it flexes; more layers make it stiffer.
- The spring mounts to the frame at its front eye (usually fixed in a hanger) and to the frame at a rear shackle which allows the spring to change length as it flexes. The axle rides on the spring (spring seat) and is clamped to the pack with U‑bolts.
- Shock absorbers control oscillation; they work with the springs but are not load bearing.
- Over time springs sag, individual leaves chip or break, bushings wear, bolts corrode, U‑bolts stretch, or the center bolt shears — all of which reduce load carrying, increase ride harshness, cause clunking, allow axle shift, or produce unsafe handling.

Why replace leaf springs
- Visible sag (vehicle sits lower, uneven height).
- Broken leaf(s) in the pack.
- Soft ride, excessive bounce, or bottoming on bumps.
- Clunking when hitting bumps (worn bushings or shackles).
- Corrosion or cracked spring steel.
- U‑bolt failure or missing/broken center bolt.
Replacing the springs restores correct ride height, handling, axle alignment and load capacity.

Main components (every component you will touch)
- Leaf spring pack: series of steel leaves (main/long leaf, one or more graduated shorter leaves). Center bolt runs through stack.
- Front spring eye and hanger: eye (bushing inside) bolts to the frame hanger; often fixed with a pivot bolt.
- Rear shackle: attaches rear eye of spring to a mounting bracket on frame; moves as spring flexes. Contains bushings and shackle bolts.
- Bushings: rubber/urethane sleeves inside spring eyes and shackle eyes reduce metal‑to‑metal wear and dampen noise.
- Center bolt: holds leaves in alignment through the center of the pack.
- Spring seat/perch: pad on the axle where spring center sits.
- U‑bolts and saddle plate: clamp axle to the spring pack. U‑bolts often should be replaced when springs are replaced.
- Shock absorbers: bolt to axle and frame; you usually remove or unbolt them to let the axle drop.
- Spring clips/retainer straps (if present): hold top leaves from shifting.
- Nuts, washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins where applicable.

Tools and consumables
- Heavy-duty jack (floor jack) and rated jack stands — don’t rely on the jack.
- Wheel chocks.
- Socket set, combination wrenches.
- Breaker bar and long cheater pipe (for stuck bolts).
- Torque wrench (essential).
- Impact wrench helpful but not required.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40 type).
- Pry bar and hammer (dead blow preferred).
- C‑clamps to clamp leaves when reassembling or to compress pack.
- New U‑bolts and new nuts (replace; they’re often torque‑to‑yield or rusted).
- New spring bushings, shackles or bolts if worn.
- Anti‑seize or thread dressing; medium strength thread locker where appropriate.
- Wire brush, wire wheel to clean corrosion.
- Grease (if using greasable bushings) and grease gun.
- Safety gear: gloves, goggles.

Safety first (non‑negotiable)
- Work on flat level ground. Chock front wheels if you are working on rear springs (and vice versa).
- NEVER rely on a jack alone. Use rated jack stands under frame.
- The axle will be supported only by your jack during disassembly — use a second jack under the axle as a backup while you work.
- Leaf springs can store energy. Remove load gradually; clamp the pack when disassembling center bolt or replacing leaves.
- Replace any damaged U‑bolts; do not re‑use badly corroded hardware.
- If anything looks structurally compromised (cracked frame, heavily rusted/dropper brackets), stop and evaluate.

What can go wrong if done improperly
- Undercarriage collapse if vehicle not supported properly.
- U‑bolts insufficiently torqued → axle movement, noise, accelerated wear, or axle sliding forward/backward (dangerous).
- Misaligned springs → poor handling, uneven tire wear.
- Reusing worn bushings → clunking, premature failure.
- Overtightening bolts (shearing or deforming bushings) or undertorquing leading to loosening.
- Damaging brake lines or shocks when lowering axle.

Step‑by‑step procedure (beginner friendly)
I’ll give steps for a typical rear leaf replacement — front shares the same principles. Read all steps first, then perform them.

Preparation
1. Gather parts: matched replacement springs (left/right), new U‑bolts, replacement bushings/shackles if needed, new center bolt if missing. Get the vehicle service manual if possible for exact torque specs.
2. Park on level ground, chock front wheels, set parking brake.
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly while on ground.

Lifting and support
4. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a floor jack at the axle housing (center), high enough to take some weight off springs but not to fully extend shocks. Put the axle slightly lower than when frame is on stands; you want the springs to droop so you can remove bolts easily.
5. Place jack stands under the frame rails ahead of and behind the rear spring hangers (per manual recommended locations). Lower the vehicle onto jack stands. Verify stability by rocking lightly.
6. Remove wheels.

Unbolt and support axle
7. Support the axle with a second jack under the axle housing near the spring to be removed. This jack supports axle movement when U‑bolts are removed.
8. Remove shock absorber lower bolt(s) on the side you’re working on (this allows the axle to drop). Keep the shock attached to the frame side if preferred.

Remove U‑bolts and axle clamp
9. Spray penetrating oil on U‑bolt nuts and shackles; let soak.
10. Remove the U‑bolt nuts. If corroded, you may need to cut off U‑bolts with a grinder — but be careful not to damage brake lines or shock. Remove the upper saddle plate and U‑bolts. The axle will now be clamped only by the jack, so keep the jack in place.

Disconnect spring from frame
11. Remove the shackle pin/bolt at the rear shackle. You may need a hammer, pry bar, or penetrating oil. Save or replace hardware as appropriate.
12. Remove the front spring eye pivot bolt from the hanger. The spring should then be free to drop out of the hanger and shackle. If the spring is stuck, use a pry bar to persuade the eye out of the hanger (apply penetrating oil earlier).
13. Use the jack to lower the axle slightly to create slack and allow the spring pack to clear the axle seat and remove.

Handling the spring pack
14. If replacing the whole pack: pull the old pack out. Note orientation — the main (longest) leaf typically faces up and the curved arc is upward convex. Keep the center bolt in mind.
15. If reusing parts or swapping leaves, clamp the new pack with C‑clamps in two places so leaves stay aligned. Install a new center bolt (if required) and tighten the center bolt enough to hold leaves together but don’t crush bushings.

Install new spring
16. Clean the spring perch on the axle and the frame hanger surfaces. Remove rust and old paint so spring seats flat.
17. Place the new spring on the axle perch and align the center bolt with the axle seat hole. The spring’s arc should face the correct way — convex up with axle on top.
18. Lift the spring eye into the hanger, push the front pivot bolt through the bushing and hand‑run nut on bolt. Insert the shackle and shackle bolt at the rear eye but leave bolts loose for now. The spring will be roughly positioned.

Reattach U‑bolts
19. Replace U‑bolts with new ones: place saddle plate over the axle seat and fit U‑bolts over the spring and around the axle. Fit nuts on U‑bolts and hand tighten to seat the plate.
20. With the axle supported at ride height (jack adjusted so suspension is at normal loaded height; you may need a helper to sit in the cab or place equivalent load), torque U‑bolts to the manufacturer specification or a reliable general guideline (see below). Tighten in an alternating pattern to pull the saddle down evenly.
21. Torque shackle and pivot bolts to spec (or snug then final torque once vehicle is on the ground). If replacing bushings, follow manufacturer procedure — many rubber bushings are compressed and need final torque with weight on the springs.

Final steps and checks
22. Reinstall shocks and torque lower and upper bolts to spec.
23. Reinstall wheels, tighten lug nuts snugly.
24. Lower the vehicle off the stands slowly with the floor jack. Once on the ground, torque wheel lug nuts to spec (star pattern).
25. With vehicle on the ground and normal load, torque U‑bolts, shackles, and eye bolts to final specification. Many manuals call for re‑torque after first 100–500 miles because springs settle and U‑bolts compress.
26. Grease any greasable bushings according to manufacturer instructions.

Torque guidance (safety note)
- I cannot guarantee exact numbers for every variant. Always use the factory service manual if available. Typical U‑bolt torque for light trucks often ranges ~80–140 ft‑lb (110–190 N·m) depending on bolt size and spring clamp design. Shackles and pivot bolts are typically lower (30–120 ft‑lb). If you don’t have the manual, choose a torque appropriate for bolt size (consult bolt torque charts) and err on the side of secure — not over‑stressed. Replace U‑bolts rather than risk over‑torquing an old stretched bolt.

Inspection and testing
- After installation, test drive slowly. Listen for unusual clunks, check ride height front and rear, check wheel alignment (re‑alignment may be required).
- After 50–100 miles, re‑check U‑bolt torque and shackle bolts.
- Inspect for loose parts, scrapes, or any brake line contacts.

Troubleshooting common problems
- Spring squeaks/clunks: likely worn bushings or loose shackle/pivot bolts — re‑torque or replace bushings.
- Vehicle still sagging: wrong springs installed (wrong rate/length) or springs are seated incorrectly.
- Axle shifted forward/back: U‑bolts not tight or broken; stop driving and fix immediately.
- Broken leaf appears again quickly: incorrect part, overloaded vehicle, or rust/pitting weakened spring.

Maintenance tips
- Replace U‑bolts every time springs are replaced.
- Use greaseable bushings and a periodic greasing schedule if you often drive offroad.
- Inspect springs regularly for broken leaves, rust cracks, and bushing wear.
- Don’t overload beyond spring rating — aftermarket “helper” springs are available for heavy loads.

Final checklist before driving
- All bolts torqued to spec.
- New U‑bolts installed.
- Shock(s) reattached.
- Wheels torqued to spec.
- No rubbing on brake lines or fuel lines.
- Test drive and re‑check torques.

That’s the full practical overview — what each part does, why the repair is needed, what can go wrong, and a step‑by‑step replacement procedure written for beginners. Follow the safety steps closely; if any bolt or bracket looks dangerously corroded or if you aren’t comfortable jacking and supporting the vehicle, get professional help.
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