Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric socket & spanner set (6–24 mm), deep sockets.
- 1/2" & 3/8" drive ratchets, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (range ~10–200 N·m).
- Transmission jack or low-profile trolley jack with adapter (highly recommended).
- Engine support bar or hoist (to support engine when gearbox removed).
- Clutch alignment tool (matched to input shaft splines).
- Pry bars and flat screwdrivers.
- Hammer and soft punch.
- Flywheel locking tool or large pry bar for immobilising crank when loosening bolts.
- Impact gun (optional, speeds work).
- Snap-ring pliers, circlip tools (if required).
- Drain pan and fluid transfer pump, funnels.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner, lint-free rags.
- Wire ties, masking tape, marker for labeling connectors/hoses.
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection, steel-toe boots.
- Jack stands and heavy-duty floor jack; wheel chocks.
- New gearbox oil (spec per gearbox), oil sealant/RTV (if required).
- Replacement parts: gearbox assembly or rebuild kit; gearbox mounts; input shaft seal; output shaft seal(s); clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release/throwout bearing) — always replace clutch when gearbox is out; pilot bearing (if applicable); new bellhousing bolts or studs if damaged; cotter pins/retaining hardware; transmission oil.
- Optional: new flywheel or flywheel resurfacing, threadlocker (blue), anti-seize.

Safety precautions (must-follow)
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels and put vehicle in gear/park. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use rated jack stands; never rely on a jack alone under the vehicle or gearbox.
- Use an engine support bar or hoist to carry engine load once gearbox is removed. DO NOT let engine tilt or hang on wiring/hoses.
- Use a dedicated transmission jack or equivalent to raise/lower gearbox evenly. A poorly supported gearbox can drop and cause severe injury.
- Drain fluids before loosening bolted joints to avoid spills and slipping.
- Keep hands clear of pinch points; gearbox can be heavy (50–120 lb depending on model).
- Dispose of used oil and contaminated rags properly.

Step‑by‑step gearbox removal & replacement (Toyota 4Y — generic procedure)
Note: this covers manual gearbox removal/replacement. Automatic transmissions differ significantly.

Preparation
1. Read the service manual for your exact vehicle/gearbox for bolt locations, torque specs, and diagrams.
2. Park on level ground, chock rear wheels. Raise vehicle with a floor jack, support with jack stands on recommended lift points. Remove battery negative terminal.
3. Drain gearbox oil into pan by removing drain plug; reinstall plug loosely to prevent debris entry during removal (or remove fully and cap container).

Label & disconnect
4. Label and disconnect shift linkage/selector rods at gearbox end. Remove any retaining clips and note positions.
5. Disconnect cable/wiring connectors to reverse switch, back-up light switch, neutral switch, etc. Label each connector.
6. Remove speedometer cable or sensor. Secure cable away from work area.
7. Disconnect propshafts / driveshafts: mark orientation for reassembly. Remove U-joint straps or flange bolts. Support driveshaft to avoid damage.
8. Remove starter motor (it usually shares bellhousing space); tag wiring and remove.
9. Remove exhaust parts that obstruct access if necessary (heat shield, downpipe section).

Support engine & remove engine‑to‑gearbox items
10. Support engine with an engine hoist or support bar under the intake/cylinder head lift points to take load when bellhousing is unbolted.
11. Remove clutch slave cylinder or release hydraulic line from the bellhousing. If hydraulic, plug line to avoid fluid loss into bellhousing and remove or hang slave out of the way.
12. Remove any cross-member or transmission mount bolts and any engine-to-chassis braces that block gearbox movement. Support cross-member with jack if removing.

Bellhousing & gearbox separation
13. Remove bellhousing bolts in a clean, organized manner. There are usually bolts around perimeter and bolts attaching gearbox to engine block. Keep bolts sorted by length.
14. Inspect the bellhousing mating face for debris; clean lightly if necessary.
15. Slowly separate gearbox from engine. Use a transmission jack under the gearbox, raise it into position and then back off engine to disengage spline. Gently pry if lightly stuck — avoid levering on housings. Watch for dowel pins and alignment; note any shims.

Lower gearbox
16. Once free, lower gearbox using transmission jack. Ensure it is balanced; use straps to secure it to the jack. Carefully remove from under vehicle.

Clutch & flywheel inspection / replacement (do not skip)
17. Inspect clutch disc and pressure plate; if gearbox removed, replace clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing) as standard practice.
18. Remove pressure plate; inspect flywheel surface. If glazed or with heat spots, resurface or replace flywheel. Clean crankshaft pilot bore and replace pilot bearing if worn.
19. Replace throwout/release bearing (it’s inexpensive relative to labor). Grease the bearing contact points lightly with high-temp grease where specified.
20. Clean mating surfaces (flywheel, pressure plate) with brake cleaner. Do not contaminate friction surfaces with oil.

Reassembly — clutch alignment & gearbox installation
21. Fit new clutch disc and pressure plate using alignment tool; torque pressure plate bolts in a star pattern to OEM specs.
22. Ensure input shaft splines are clean and gear oil is not contaminating the clutch disc.
23. Raise gearbox on transmission jack and align input shaft with clutch disc. Use guide studs (long bolts) if available in bellhousing to help align engine and gearbox. Slowly advance bellhousing to mate with engine — do not force. Ensure dowel pins engage.
24. Install bellhousing/gearbox bolts finger-tight, then torque to OEM specs in a criss-cross pattern. Reinstall starter.
25. Reattach engine/transmission mount(s), cross-member and any braces. Torque to spec.
26. Reconnect slave cylinder or clutch hydraulic line. Bleed clutch system thoroughly if hydraulic.

Reattach driveline & finish
27. Reinstall driveshafts/propshafts in correct orientation and torque flange/U-joint bolts to spec.
28. Reconnect speedometer cable/sensor and electrical connectors. Reattach shift linkage and adjust linkage to correct play/position.
29. Refill gearbox with correct grade and amount of oil per OEM.
30. Reconnect battery. Start engine, verify clutch engagement, neutral gear, and check for leaks. With vehicle safely supported, rotate driveshafts by hand to ensure engagement.
31. Lower vehicle and test drive carefully. Check for abnormal noises, vibration, leaks. Re-torque any accessible bolts after initial road test if manufacturer recommends.

How specific tools are used
- Transmission jack: positioned under gearbox center of mass; gearbox strapped to the jack saddle; height adjusted so splines align with clutch. Used to support weight during separation and to safely lower/raise assembly.
- Engine hoist/support bar: takes engine load once bellhousing bolts removed; prevents engine from tilting forward/back. Adjust to keep engine height steady during gearbox removal.
- Clutch alignment tool: inserted through clutch disc into pilot bore to center disc on input shaft so the gearbox input shaft can slide in without misaligning friction surfaces.
- Torque wrench: used to tighten bellhousing, flywheel, pressure plate, and mount bolts to proper torque values in specified sequences.
- Flywheel locking tool: holds crankshaft steady while loosening/tightening flywheel or pressure plate bolts.
- Impact gun: for stubborn bolts (use judiciously near bellhousing and studs). Follow up with torque wrench to final spec.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the engine: leads to engine sag/damage. Use proper support before unbolting.
- Removing gearbox without transmission jack: gearbox can drop and injure or damage components.
- Reusing worn pilot bearing/throwout bearing: leads to noise and clutch failure—replace whenever gearbox is out.
- Not replacing or resurfacing flywheel when required: causes premature clutch slip or chatter.
- Contaminating clutch disc with oil/grease: keep surfaces clean; avoid touching friction surface with fingers or oily rags.
- Misaligned clutch on reassembly: use clutch alignment tool; do not force gearbox on.
- Cross-threading or under-torquing bellhousing bolts: use correct bolts and torque to spec; apply threadlocker where OEM specifies.
- Forgetting to bleed clutch hydraulic system: leads to poor clutch engagement.
- Not replacing input/output seals or gearbox mounts: leads to immediate leaks or driveline vibration.
- Failing to mark driveshaft orientation: can introduce vibration if reinstalled rotated.

Replacement parts typically required
- Gearbox itself (replacement or rebuilt unit), or rebuild kit (bearings, synchros, seals).
- Input shaft seal, output shaft seals.
- Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing).
- Pilot bearing (if fitted).
- Gearbox mounts and bolts as needed.
- Gear oil (correct spec/amount).
- Gaskets/sealant where applicable.

Final checks
- Torque-check critical fasteners to OEM specs.
- Check for leaks after first run and re-check oil level.
- Test all gears, reverse, and neutral with vehicle stationary then on a short test drive.
- Re-inspect mounts and linkages after 100–200 km.

Time estimate
- Experienced technician with proper tools: 4–8 hours. Without proper tools or unexpected issues (rusted bolts, seized parts): plan a full day or more.

Follow OEM service manual for your vehicle/gearbox for exact bolt locations, torque values, and any model-specific steps.
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