Why this repair matters (theory, simply)
- Purpose: Shocks (shock absorbers) control the motion of the springs. Springs store energy from bumps; shocks convert that energy to heat and slow the spring oscillation so the tire stays in contact with the road. Without damping the car will bounce, handle poorly, increase braking distance, and wear tires/other suspension parts.
- How they work: Most automotive shocks are hydraulic (sometimes gas-charged). A piston moves inside a cylinder filled with oil. Valves in the piston restrict oil flow so motion is resisted — compression (wheel moving up) and rebound (wheel moving down) are damped, sometimes at different rates. Think of a shock as a narrow pipe the oil must squeeze through; the tighter the restriction, the slower the motion.
- Symptoms of failure: Leaking oil on the shock, excessive bouncing after a push test (push down on corner — it should return once and settle), nose-diving under braking, loose/floaty steering, uneven tire wear, clunking from mounts or worn bushings.

Components — detailed descriptions
- Shock absorber (the assembly):
- Cylinder/body: holds oil/gas and the piston. May be monotube or twin-tube construction.
- Piston rod: chrome-plated rod that moves in and out.
- Piston and valves: internal parts that create damping.
- Lower eye or stud (lower mount): bolt hole or stud that attaches to axle/control arm.
- Upper mount (if separate shock): eye/bushing or top stud that mounts to chassis.
- Dust boot/cover: flexible sleeve protecting the rod from dirt.
- Bump stop (jounce bumper): usually rubber/foam mounted on rod or chassis to prevent metal-to-metal contact at full compression.
- Mounting bushings/washers/nuts/bolts: isolate vibration and secure shock.
- Upper strut mount bearing (if strut-type): for MacPherson struts; allows steering rotation.
- Coil spring (when shocks and springs are separate physically) — supports weight and provides primary springing.
- Spring compressor (tool) — used with struts to safely compress the coil when disassembling/assembling a strut.
- Leaf spring and axle shackles (rear leaf-spring setups): shock mounts to axle/spring bracket.

Typical Toyota 5L-E platforms (what to expect)
- On many trucks using the 5L-E (e.g., Hilux, older Land Cruiser Prado variants), front suspension is double-wishbone with coil spring and separate shock (not a strut). Rear is usually leaf-spring with separate shocks. Some models use front struts; verify by looking at the top of the shock — if it mounts through the strut tower with a big nut, it’s a strut and requires spring compressor or whole-assembly replacement.

Tools & parts you’ll need
- New shocks (correct part number for vehicle/year, gas-charged or twin-tube as OEM calls for)
- New mounting hardware and bushings (recommended)
- Jack and quality jack stands (rated for vehicle)
- Wheel chocks
- Breaker bar, sockets (metric), ratchet, torque wrench
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Wire brush, hammer, pry bar
- Socket extensions, swivels
- Impact wrench (optional but helpful)
- Spring compressor (if replacing strut internals)
- Large C-clamp or pry bar to position control arm if needed
- Rubber mallet, screwdriver
- Anti-seize and thread locker (per manual)
- Safety glasses, gloves

Safety first — non-negotiables
- Always chock wheels and use jack stands under solid lift points. Never rely on just a jack.
- If you need to disassemble a strut (coil spring around the strut shaft), use a proper spring compressor and know how to use it. Compressed springs store deadly energy — do not improvise.
- Gas shocks are pressurized; do not cut open or try to disassemble them.
- If bolts are rusted and you must heat them, use care around fuel lines and sensors.

High-level replacement approach (two common cases)
A. Separate shock (front on many Toyota trucks / rear on leaf-spring trucks)
B. Strut assembly (some cars) — special precautions, spring compressor or replace-as-assembly

Step-by-step: Replace a separate shock (most likely on Toyota 5L-E trucks)
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock opposite wheels.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly if removing wheel.
- Raise the vehicle with a jack at the specified lift point; place jack stands under strong frame points. Lower onto stands.
- Remove the wheel for access.

2. Inspect before removal
- Examine shock for oil leakage, torn dust boot, collapsed height, and check upper/lower bushings for play.
- Spray penetrating oil on the upper and lower mounting bolts/nuts and let soak 10–15 minutes.

3. Support suspension
- Support the control arm or axle with a small jack or jack stand so that when the shock is removed the spring/axle doesn’t drop suddenly. This prevents spring preload change and damage to brake lines.

4. Remove lower mounting bolt
- Hold the shock shaft or use a hex/splined hole (if present) in the piston rod to keep it from turning.
- Remove the lower mounting nut and slide out the bolt. You may need to tap it out with a hammer if corroded. Use penetrating oil and heat if required (careful).

5. Remove upper mount
- On top of the shock there will be a nut (or nuts) holding the upper mount. For many trucks it’s inside the engine bay or in a fender well — remove any splash shields as needed.
- Remove the top nut(s) and pull the shock down through the lower mount or out of the chassis depending on orientation.

6. Compare old vs new
- Check new shock length and mounts against the old one. Ensure dust boot and bump stop (or replace them) are included or transferred.

7. Install new shock
- If new shock has separate bushings, grease the sleeves/bushings as recommended and slide them into place.
- Position the shock into the upper mount first and loosely install the top nut(s) — don’t fully tighten yet.
- Reinstall the lower bolt while the suspension is at rest (supported). On some vehicles you should compress the suspension slightly to align holes — use a small jack under the control arm/axle to do this carefully.
- Torque the lower and upper fasteners to factory specs. If you don’t have exact specs, torque them snugly and ensure they’re properly seated; get the spec and re-torque later (see note).

8. Reassemble
- Reinstall wheel, lower the vehicle, torque wheel lugs to spec.
- Remove jack stands and lower jack.
- Test drive carefully and re-check torque after 100 km (or 60 miles).

Step-by-step: Replace a strut (if applicable)
1. Same safety/prep steps as above — chock, jack, stands, remove wheel.
2. Support the lower control arm with a jack so the assembly won’t drop.
3. Remove sway bar link and any braking line brackets attached to the strut.
4. Remove lower strut-to-steering knuckle bolts (may be large and rusty).
5. Open hood and access upper strut mounting nuts (usually 3 nuts on a strut tower); remove them while supporting the strut from below.
6. Carefully remove the entire strut assembly from the vehicle.
7. If reusing the coil and mount, compress the spring with a proper compressor on both sides, remove the centre nut on the strut top (carefully), then swap the shock/strut cartridge or assemble new strut cartridge and reassemble springs/mounts. If you are not trained or lack the tool, replace the entire strut as a premade assembly.
8. Reinstall strut assembly, torque upper nuts and lower bolts to spec, reattach sway bar links and brake line brackets.

Rear leaf-spring shock removal (common on trucks)
- Support the axle with a jack. Remove lower mounting nut/bolt. If the lower mount is on the axle bracket, you often remove the top or bottom bolt first, then swing the shock out. Replace bushings/washers. Torque to spec.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid)
- Seized bolts — use penetrating oil, correct sized sockets, avoid rounding heads; cut-off as last resort. Heat can help but be careful around rubber/plastic parts.
- Compressing springs incorrectly — using the wrong tool or single-sided compressor can let the spring fly off. Use matched compressors and follow tool instructions.
- Reusing worn bushings or hardware — they’ll cause clunks and premature failure. Replace hardware where available.
- Installing with the suspension drooped versus at ride height — some vehicles call for torquing sway bar links or lower control arm bolts at ride height; check service manual. If unsure, torque to spec and re-check after short drive.
- Wrong part — shocks come in different valving and lengths; buy correct OEM or upgraded shocks for your vehicle and load usage.
- Over-tightening or under-tightening — use a torque wrench and factory specs. Over-tightening can crush bushings or strip threads; under-tightening causes movement, wear, and noise.
- Accidentally opening gas shocks — they’re sealed; don’t cut them open.

Diagnosis checks after replacement
- Bounce test: push the corner down and release — it should return once, maybe twice, and stop.
- Visual: no leaks, dust boot and bump stop in place, no rubbing or contact.
- Road test: check for better control, listen for clunks, confirm braking behavior improved.
- Re-check fasteners after first 50–100 km.

Estimated time & difficulty
- Rear shock (truck, leaf-spring): 30–60 minutes per side for a beginner, less if bolts are free.
- Front separate shock: 45–90 minutes per side (depends on access and corrosion).
- Strut replacement (with spring compressor): 1.5–3 hours per side if you know what you’re doing; more if learning.

Final practical tips
- Replace shocks in axle pairs (both front or both rear) — uneven damping causes instability.
- Use OEM or quality aftermarket shocks; cheaper shocks can fail quicker and give poor handling.
- Buy a hardware kit with new bolts and bushings; it’s cheap insurance.
- If you’re unsure about torque specs or whether your vehicle uses struts, consult the factory service manual or a reliable repair database.
- If any step (especially dealing with coil spring compression) makes you hesitate, get a shop to do it — compressed springs can be lethal.

That’s the full picture: what each part is, why shocks matter, the common procedures for both separate shocks and struts, what goes wrong, and how to avoid mistakes. Follow all safety steps, use the right parts and tools, and consult the official service manual for torque numbers specific to your model/year.
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