Toyota 5L-E engine factory workshop and repair manual
Toyota 5L-E engine factory workshop and repair manual
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5L BELT INSTALL
5L COMPONANTS
5L CRANK ANGLE SENSOR
5L DRIVE BELT COMPONANTS
5L ECD SYSTEM DIAGRAM
5L ENGINE COMPONANTS
5L ENGINE REMOVAL
5L ENGINE UNIT COMPONANTS
5L FRONT OIL SEAL INSTALL
5L FRONT OIL SEAL REMOVAL
5L FRONT SEAL COMPONANTS
5L HEAD COMPONANTS
5L HEAD INSTALL
5L HEAD REMOVAL
5L INJECTIOR NOZZLE COMPONANTS
5L INJECTOR PUMP COMPONANTS
5L REAR OIL SEAL COMPONANTS
5L SERVICE SPECS
5L TORQUE SPECS
5L VENTURI COMPONANTS
5L-E ENGINE SUP. RM817E
CAM INSTALL
CAM REMOVAL
ECD SYSTEM
ENGINE TIMING BELT COMPONANTS
ENGINE UNIT DIASSEMBLY
ENGINE UNIT REASSEMBLY
PRESSURE SENSOR
RAR OIL SEAL INSTALL
REAR OIL SEAL REMOVAL
TIMING BELT INSTALL
TIMING BELT REMOVAL
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
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About the 5L-E engine
The 5L-E is a 3.0 L (2,986 cc) EFI version of the 5L engine. It is the latest member of the L family. It has a bore of 99.5 mm and stroke of 96.0 mm, with a compression ratio of 22.2:1. Output (as fitted to the Hilux is 97 PS (71 kW) at 4,000 rpm with 192 N·m (142 ft·lb) of torque at 2,400 rpm.Power output varies according to fitment. The engine number is found on the top face of the block at the front of the engine.
Applications:
Toyota Hilux
Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (J90-series)
Toyota Hiace (fifth generation, H200-series)
Toyota 5L-E engine factory workshop and repair manual
- Safety first (do these every time)
- Park on a flat, level surface, set the parking brake, put the transmission in gear (manual) or in Park (auto if applicable), and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Work with the engine cold to avoid hot oil/burns.
- Wear chemical-resistant gloves, eye protection, and clothes you don’t mind getting dirty.
- Have good lighting and ventilation.
- What you will likely be changing and why
- Gearbox oil (manual transmission lubricant): removes contaminants, maintains correct gear lubrication and synchronizer function, reduces wear and noise.
- Drain plug crush washer (recommended): seals the drain plug to prevent leaks; often deforms each time the plug is removed and should be replaced.
- Fill plug O-ring (if present): seals the fill plug; replace if worn or leaking.
- Seals or bearings (only if leaking or metal in oil): if you find heavy metal particles or active external leaks, internal components or shaft seals may need replacement — this is not a simple beginner job.
- Fluid type and quantities (important)
- Use the gearbox oil specified in the Toyota service/owner’s manual for your exact vehicle model/year. If you don’t have that, use a high-quality hypoid gear oil suitable for manual transmissions (common choices are 75W‑90 or 80W‑90). Prefer API GL‑4 when synchronizer compatibility is specified by Toyota.
- Capacity varies by gearbox model; check the manual. Do NOT overfill — the fill hole level is the correct level.
- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Hydraulic trolley jack (or scissor jack of adequate capacity)
- Description: low-profile jack to lift one end of vehicle.
- How to use: place under the manufacturer-specified jacking point (consult manual or reinforced pinch seam); pump handle to raise vehicle. Never rely on jack alone — immediately install jack stands.
- Why required: raises vehicle to access drain/fill plugs under gearbox.
- Pair of jack stands (rated to vehicle weight)
- Description: adjustable supports with locking pin or ratchet; placed under axle or subframe.
- How to use: once vehicle is raised, lower it onto stands placed on sturdy points; confirm stability before working underneath.
- Why required: provides a safe, stable support; mandatory for safety.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: wedges or blocks placed behind wheels.
- How to use: place behind at least one wheel on the opposite end to prevent rolling.
- Why required: prevents vehicle movement while jacked.
- Large oil drain pan (capacity 6–10 liters)
- Description: low, wide container to catch used oil.
- How to use: position under drain plug before removal; keep clean to avoid spills.
- Why required: collects old oil for disposal.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (including deep sockets)
- Description: metric sockets (likely 12–24 mm range), ratchet handle, 6"–12" extensions.
- How to use: match socket to drain/fill plug size; use extension for reach; turn ratchet counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Why required: drain and fill plugs are fastened with sockets. Have a full set because sizes vary by model.
- Wrench set (combination/open-end)
- Description: metric wrenches for situations where sockets don’t fit.
- How to use: place correct-size wrench on plug nut and turn; keep steady pressure to avoid rounding flats.
- Why required: useful in cramped areas where ratchet/socket won’t fit.
- Torque wrench (click-type) with appropriate range
- Description: wrench that clicks when set torque is reached.
- How to use: set required torque value (see service manual), snug the plug, then apply torque until wrench clicks.
- Why required: prevents over- or under-tightening of drain/fill plugs which can strip threads or leak.
- Screwdriver or pry tool (flat)
- Description: flat-blade screwdriver.
- How to use: used to remove splash shields or pry plugs gently if stuck.
- Why required: to remove protective covers or loosen stuck plugs.
- Pneumatic or hand-operated fluid transfer pump (or long funnel and squeeze bottle)
- Description: manual hand pump or siphon pump with tube or long funnel capable of reaching into the fill hole.
- How to use: insert pump tube into fill hole and pump fluid from bottle into gearbox until it comes out the fill hole (if checking level) or reaches manufacturer quantity.
- Why required: gearbox fill holes are high on the case; pouring directly is awkward; pump ensures clean, controlled filling.
- Clean funnels and bottles for new oil
- Description: food-grade or oil funnels and reusable bottles.
- How to use: transfer new oil into pump or funnel without spilling.
- Why required: neat, clean pouring and easier handling.
- Brake cleaner or parts cleaner and shop rags
- Description: solvent spray, lint-free rags.
- How to use: clean around plugs before opening; wipe drain plug and check for metal.
- Why required: prevents dirt from entering gearbox; helps inspect plug and fluid.
- Inspection flashlight
- Description: bright, preferably magnetic flashlight.
- How to use: illuminate drain/fill area and inspect fluid color/metal debris.
- Why required: good visibility under vehicle is essential.
- Magnet or magnet pick-up tool
- Description: small magnet on stick.
- How to use: run along drain plug or inside pan to pick up metal flakes.
- Why required: helps detect metallic contamination.
- Small wire brush or pick
- Description: wire brush for cleaning threads and a pick for seal removal.
- How to use: clean plug threads and mating surfaces; remove old crush washer residue.
- Why required: ensures good seal when reassembling.
- Replacement crush washer / copper washer set (correct size)
- Description: soft metal washers sized to drain plug (often copper or aluminum).
- How to use: place new washer on drain plug before reinstalling; torque to spec.
- Why required: provides reliable seal; reused washers commonly leak.
- Hand-held prybar or plastic scraper (if removing solidified grime)
- Description: small prying tool.
- How to use: gently remove hardened sludge around plug if necessary.
- Why required: keeps area clean for good seal.
- Disposal containers and absorbent pads
- Description: sealed container to carry used oil to recycling center and pads to catch drips.
- How to use: pour used oil into a labeled container and take to an approved disposal site.
- Why required: environmental and legal disposal of used oil.
- Optional but highly recommended tools
- Torque-angle gauge (rarely required) — used for specific torque+angle fasteners if manual specifies.
- Impact driver or impact wrench (speeds removal) — useful for stuck plugs but be cautious not to over-torque threads.
- Vehicle service manual (Haynes, Toyota TIS) — contains plug sizes, torque specs, capacities, and jacking points; essential for exact specs.
- Step-by-step procedure (follow in order; read through fully first)
- Prepare vehicle: chock wheels, raise the vehicle with jack at correct jacking point, support securely on jack stands.
- Locate drain and fill plugs: clean the area with brake cleaner and rags; identify drain plug (low point of gearbox) and fill/level plug (higher on case).
- Check fill plug first: loosen but do not remove fill plug to ensure you can refill — if fill plug won’t loosen, fix before draining.
- Position the drain pan under drain plug and confirm pan will catch all fluid.
- Loosen and remove drain plug: use the correct socket/wrench; remove slowly — be ready for oil to run out.
- Inspect drained oil: look for color (dark is normal), smell (burnt smells bad), and metal flakes. Use magnet pick-up to check for ferrous metal.
- Clean drain plug and magnetic tip (if present): wipe sludge off; if magnetic plug has heavy metal buildup or scoring, note condition.
- Replace crush washer on drain plug: remove old washer, fit new one, and lightly coat threads with a little clean oil if you prefer.
- Reinstall and torque drain plug: hand-thread to avoid cross-threading, then tighten to OEM torque spec (consult manual). If you don’t have the spec, snug but do not overtighten; get a torque wrench value ASAP.
- Fill gearbox: insert pump tube or funnel into fill hole and add new oil until it begins to run out of the fill hole (this indicates correct level). If the spec states a quantity, fill that amount and verify level at fill hole.
- Reinstall and torque fill plug: clean plug and threads; fit any new O-ring or washer if applicable; torque to spec.
- Lower vehicle: remove jack stands and lower vehicle onto ground.
- Test drive & final check: drive gently, then re-check for leaks around drain and fill plugs and check gear function. Re-check level after a short run if recommended.
- Dispose of used oil and contaminated rags responsibly at an approved recycling center.
- How to use key tools in practice (quick practical tips)
- Socket and ratchet: choose tight-fitting socket to avoid rounding. Break stubborn bolts with steady force; if stuck, use penetrating oil, let sit, then try again. Use extension for recessed plugs.
- Torque wrench: set to value, snug first, then make final pass until wrench clicks. Store set to lowest setting after use.
- Fluid transfer pump: prime pump if necessary, keep hose tip clean, avoid sucking air to prevent splashing.
- Jack/jack stands: never crawl under a car supported only by the jack. Use stands on firm surfaces, not on soft ground.
- Signs you need parts replaced (and what parts)
- Leaking from drain/fill plug area after service: replace crush washer and/or fill plug O-ring; if still leaking, inspect threads and housing for damage.
- Metal flakes or grinding in oil: internal wear — possible replacement of bearings, synchros, gears; requires transmission overhaul or rebuild (professional job).
- Continuous external leaks from output shaft or input shaft: likely front or rear seal replacement — moderate difficulty; may require removing transmission or axle half-shaft.
- Very dirty/contaminated oil with water or sludge: flush and replace oil; if water ingress severe, inspect for cracked housing or faulty seals.
- Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Not loosening the fill plug first — you could drain and then be unable to refill.
- Working without jack stands or on an incline — unsafe.
- Reusing crushed washer — causes leaks.
- Overfilling — causes pressure and leaks; fill until it reaches the fill hole level.
- Using wrong oil grade — can cause poor synchronizer life or gear wear.
- Final notes
- Exact plug sizes, torque values, oil grade and capacity are specific to the gearbox model. If possible, consult the Toyota service manual or a dealer for precise specs before starting.
- If you find metal shavings (not just fine residue), major internal work may be needed; stop and consult a professional.
- Disposal and environmental responsibility
- Put used oil in a sealed container (oil jug) and take it to a recycling center, auto parts store, or hazardous waste facility. Do not pour on ground or down drains.
End of instructions. rteeqp73
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Toyota 2L 3L 5L engine factory workshop and repair manual. Mark II/Chaser/Cresta/Cressida Revo Hiace Dyna Truck Hilux Ute Hilux Twincab Kijang Blizzard Hilux Surf/4Runner Toyota Land Cruiser Prado. Download on PDF