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Toyota 5L-E engine factory workshop and repair manual

- Safety first (do these every time)
- Park on a flat, level surface, set the parking brake, put the transmission in gear (manual) or in Park (auto if applicable), and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Work with the engine cold to avoid hot oil/burns.
- Wear chemical-resistant gloves, eye protection, and clothes you don’t mind getting dirty.
- Have good lighting and ventilation.

- What you will likely be changing and why
- Gearbox oil (manual transmission lubricant): removes contaminants, maintains correct gear lubrication and synchronizer function, reduces wear and noise.
- Drain plug crush washer (recommended): seals the drain plug to prevent leaks; often deforms each time the plug is removed and should be replaced.
- Fill plug O-ring (if present): seals the fill plug; replace if worn or leaking.
- Seals or bearings (only if leaking or metal in oil): if you find heavy metal particles or active external leaks, internal components or shaft seals may need replacement — this is not a simple beginner job.

- Fluid type and quantities (important)
- Use the gearbox oil specified in the Toyota service/owner’s manual for your exact vehicle model/year. If you don’t have that, use a high-quality hypoid gear oil suitable for manual transmissions (common choices are 75W‑90 or 80W‑90). Prefer API GL‑4 when synchronizer compatibility is specified by Toyota.
- Capacity varies by gearbox model; check the manual. Do NOT overfill — the fill hole level is the correct level.

- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Hydraulic trolley jack (or scissor jack of adequate capacity)
- Description: low-profile jack to lift one end of vehicle.
- How to use: place under the manufacturer-specified jacking point (consult manual or reinforced pinch seam); pump handle to raise vehicle. Never rely on jack alone — immediately install jack stands.
- Why required: raises vehicle to access drain/fill plugs under gearbox.
- Pair of jack stands (rated to vehicle weight)
- Description: adjustable supports with locking pin or ratchet; placed under axle or subframe.
- How to use: once vehicle is raised, lower it onto stands placed on sturdy points; confirm stability before working underneath.
- Why required: provides a safe, stable support; mandatory for safety.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: wedges or blocks placed behind wheels.
- How to use: place behind at least one wheel on the opposite end to prevent rolling.
- Why required: prevents vehicle movement while jacked.
- Large oil drain pan (capacity 6–10 liters)
- Description: low, wide container to catch used oil.
- How to use: position under drain plug before removal; keep clean to avoid spills.
- Why required: collects old oil for disposal.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (including deep sockets)
- Description: metric sockets (likely 12–24 mm range), ratchet handle, 6"–12" extensions.
- How to use: match socket to drain/fill plug size; use extension for reach; turn ratchet counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Why required: drain and fill plugs are fastened with sockets. Have a full set because sizes vary by model.
- Wrench set (combination/open-end)
- Description: metric wrenches for situations where sockets don’t fit.
- How to use: place correct-size wrench on plug nut and turn; keep steady pressure to avoid rounding flats.
- Why required: useful in cramped areas where ratchet/socket won’t fit.
- Torque wrench (click-type) with appropriate range
- Description: wrench that clicks when set torque is reached.
- How to use: set required torque value (see service manual), snug the plug, then apply torque until wrench clicks.
- Why required: prevents over- or under-tightening of drain/fill plugs which can strip threads or leak.
- Screwdriver or pry tool (flat)
- Description: flat-blade screwdriver.
- How to use: used to remove splash shields or pry plugs gently if stuck.
- Why required: to remove protective covers or loosen stuck plugs.
- Pneumatic or hand-operated fluid transfer pump (or long funnel and squeeze bottle)
- Description: manual hand pump or siphon pump with tube or long funnel capable of reaching into the fill hole.
- How to use: insert pump tube into fill hole and pump fluid from bottle into gearbox until it comes out the fill hole (if checking level) or reaches manufacturer quantity.
- Why required: gearbox fill holes are high on the case; pouring directly is awkward; pump ensures clean, controlled filling.
- Clean funnels and bottles for new oil
- Description: food-grade or oil funnels and reusable bottles.
- How to use: transfer new oil into pump or funnel without spilling.
- Why required: neat, clean pouring and easier handling.
- Brake cleaner or parts cleaner and shop rags
- Description: solvent spray, lint-free rags.
- How to use: clean around plugs before opening; wipe drain plug and check for metal.
- Why required: prevents dirt from entering gearbox; helps inspect plug and fluid.
- Inspection flashlight
- Description: bright, preferably magnetic flashlight.
- How to use: illuminate drain/fill area and inspect fluid color/metal debris.
- Why required: good visibility under vehicle is essential.
- Magnet or magnet pick-up tool
- Description: small magnet on stick.
- How to use: run along drain plug or inside pan to pick up metal flakes.
- Why required: helps detect metallic contamination.
- Small wire brush or pick
- Description: wire brush for cleaning threads and a pick for seal removal.
- How to use: clean plug threads and mating surfaces; remove old crush washer residue.
- Why required: ensures good seal when reassembling.
- Replacement crush washer / copper washer set (correct size)
- Description: soft metal washers sized to drain plug (often copper or aluminum).
- How to use: place new washer on drain plug before reinstalling; torque to spec.
- Why required: provides reliable seal; reused washers commonly leak.
- Hand-held prybar or plastic scraper (if removing solidified grime)
- Description: small prying tool.
- How to use: gently remove hardened sludge around plug if necessary.
- Why required: keeps area clean for good seal.
- Disposal containers and absorbent pads
- Description: sealed container to carry used oil to recycling center and pads to catch drips.
- How to use: pour used oil into a labeled container and take to an approved disposal site.
- Why required: environmental and legal disposal of used oil.

- Optional but highly recommended tools
- Torque-angle gauge (rarely required) — used for specific torque+angle fasteners if manual specifies.
- Impact driver or impact wrench (speeds removal) — useful for stuck plugs but be cautious not to over-torque threads.
- Vehicle service manual (Haynes, Toyota TIS) — contains plug sizes, torque specs, capacities, and jacking points; essential for exact specs.

- Step-by-step procedure (follow in order; read through fully first)
- Prepare vehicle: chock wheels, raise the vehicle with jack at correct jacking point, support securely on jack stands.
- Locate drain and fill plugs: clean the area with brake cleaner and rags; identify drain plug (low point of gearbox) and fill/level plug (higher on case).
- Check fill plug first: loosen but do not remove fill plug to ensure you can refill — if fill plug won’t loosen, fix before draining.
- Position the drain pan under drain plug and confirm pan will catch all fluid.
- Loosen and remove drain plug: use the correct socket/wrench; remove slowly — be ready for oil to run out.
- Inspect drained oil: look for color (dark is normal), smell (burnt smells bad), and metal flakes. Use magnet pick-up to check for ferrous metal.
- Clean drain plug and magnetic tip (if present): wipe sludge off; if magnetic plug has heavy metal buildup or scoring, note condition.
- Replace crush washer on drain plug: remove old washer, fit new one, and lightly coat threads with a little clean oil if you prefer.
- Reinstall and torque drain plug: hand-thread to avoid cross-threading, then tighten to OEM torque spec (consult manual). If you don’t have the spec, snug but do not overtighten; get a torque wrench value ASAP.
- Fill gearbox: insert pump tube or funnel into fill hole and add new oil until it begins to run out of the fill hole (this indicates correct level). If the spec states a quantity, fill that amount and verify level at fill hole.
- Reinstall and torque fill plug: clean plug and threads; fit any new O-ring or washer if applicable; torque to spec.
- Lower vehicle: remove jack stands and lower vehicle onto ground.
- Test drive & final check: drive gently, then re-check for leaks around drain and fill plugs and check gear function. Re-check level after a short run if recommended.
- Dispose of used oil and contaminated rags responsibly at an approved recycling center.

- How to use key tools in practice (quick practical tips)
- Socket and ratchet: choose tight-fitting socket to avoid rounding. Break stubborn bolts with steady force; if stuck, use penetrating oil, let sit, then try again. Use extension for recessed plugs.
- Torque wrench: set to value, snug first, then make final pass until wrench clicks. Store set to lowest setting after use.
- Fluid transfer pump: prime pump if necessary, keep hose tip clean, avoid sucking air to prevent splashing.
- Jack/jack stands: never crawl under a car supported only by the jack. Use stands on firm surfaces, not on soft ground.

- Signs you need parts replaced (and what parts)
- Leaking from drain/fill plug area after service: replace crush washer and/or fill plug O-ring; if still leaking, inspect threads and housing for damage.
- Metal flakes or grinding in oil: internal wear — possible replacement of bearings, synchros, gears; requires transmission overhaul or rebuild (professional job).
- Continuous external leaks from output shaft or input shaft: likely front or rear seal replacement — moderate difficulty; may require removing transmission or axle half-shaft.
- Very dirty/contaminated oil with water or sludge: flush and replace oil; if water ingress severe, inspect for cracked housing or faulty seals.

- Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Not loosening the fill plug first — you could drain and then be unable to refill.
- Working without jack stands or on an incline — unsafe.
- Reusing crushed washer — causes leaks.
- Overfilling — causes pressure and leaks; fill until it reaches the fill hole level.
- Using wrong oil grade — can cause poor synchronizer life or gear wear.

- Final notes
- Exact plug sizes, torque values, oil grade and capacity are specific to the gearbox model. If possible, consult the Toyota service manual or a dealer for precise specs before starting.
- If you find metal shavings (not just fine residue), major internal work may be needed; stop and consult a professional.

- Disposal and environmental responsibility
- Put used oil in a sealed container (oil jug) and take it to a recycling center, auto parts store, or hazardous waste facility. Do not pour on ground or down drains.

End of instructions.
rteeqp73

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