Safety (read first)
- Park on a level surface, engine off, parking brake on, wheels chocked front and back of opposite wheel from work side.
- Work with engine warm (not hot) for easier drainage, but allow exhaust and metal surfaces to cool enough to touch safely.
- Use jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear nitrile or mechanic’s gloves, eye protection, and have rags and a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Capture used fluid and dispose of it at a recycling center — do not pour down drains.

Tools (each tool explained and how to use it)
- Floor jack
- What it is: Hydraulic jack used to lift the vehicle.
- How to use: Position under the manufacturer-specified jacking point, pump handle to raise until clearance for jack stands. Never work under car supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (pair)
- What it is: Adjustable metal stands that hold the car safely at height.
- How to use: After lifting with the jack, place stands under solid frame points, lower the car onto stands, confirm stability before crawling under.
- Wheel chocks
- What they are: Blocks (rubber or wooden) to prevent rolling.
- How to use: Place behind/forward of wheels that remain on ground to prevent movement.
- Drain pan (large, low-profile oil drain pan)
- What it is: Container to catch drained transmission fluid.
- How to use: Center under drain plug or pan; ensure capacity exceeds expected fluid volume (ATF: several liters/quarts).
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions
- What it is: Sockets of various sizes on a ratchet handle; extensions reach recessed bolts.
- How to use: Select correct socket for drain plug / pan bolts; use extension for reach; turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Keep hand under bolt when removing to avoid dropping.
- Torque wrench
- What it is: Tool that tightens bolts to a specified torque.
- How to use: Set required torque value, tighten bolts until wrench clicks or indicates. Use for transmission pan bolts, drain plug, and any bolts that require specific torque.
- Combination wrench set (open/box wrenches)
- What it is: Wrenches for bolts difficult with a ratchet.
- How to use: Fit correct-size wrench to nut/bolt and turn with steady force; hold opposite side with second wrench if needed.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- What it is: Basic prying and fastener tools.
- How to use: Use to remove small panels, pry gently for seals or clips. Avoid excessive prying that bends parts.
- Gasket scraper or plastic razor blade
- What it is: Tool to remove old gasket material and sealant.
- How to use: Scrape residue gently to metal without gouging; use plastic tool if steel risks damage.
- Wire brush / clean rag / brake cleaner
- What they are: Cleaning tools and solvent for degreasing.
- How to use: Clean mating surfaces and magnets in pan; use rag and brake cleaner and let dry.
- Funnel and clear tubing (or fluid pump)
- What it is: Funnel helps pour fluid into dipstick tube; tubing can direct flow; a hand-operated fluid pump helps refill AT without spills.
- How to use: Use funnel or pump to add new fluid through dipstick tube (AT) or fill hole (manual). Clear tubing helps see fluid flow and avoid overfill.
- Transmission fluid pump (recommended for automatic)
- What it is: Hand or electric pump designed to push fluid into the dipstick tube.
- How to use: Attach hose to pump and dipstick tube, pump slowly to reach required level; less messy and safer than pouring.
- Hand-held suction pump (alternative)
- What it is: Small pump to extract fluid or add fluid.
- How to use: Can be used to withdraw old fluid from dipstick or to add new fluid.
- New crush washer (for drain plug)
- What it is: Soft washer that seals the drain plug to prevent leaks.
- How to use: Replace old washer when reinstalling drain plug; tighten to spec.
- Replacement transmission pan gasket and transmission filter (automatic only)
- What they are: Gasket seals pan; filter removes debris from fluid.
- How to use: Remove old gasket and filter; install new filter and gasket before reattaching pan.
- Replacement drain plug (if stripped) and replacement pan (if heavily corroded)
- What they are: Needed if original hardware is damaged or leaking.
- How to use: Replace bad components to achieve a proper seal and safe function.
- Torque specs source / service manual (digital or paper)
- What it is: Manufacturer’s specifications for torques, fluid type, and capacities.
- How to use: Refer to service manual for exact torque values, fluid type, and capacities for your exact vehicle model and transmission.
- Flashlight / work light
- What it is: Lights to see under the vehicle.
- How to use: Illuminate work area so you can see bolts, pan, and fluid flow.
- Gloves, rags, and waste oil containers
- What they are: Personal protection and clean-up supplies.
- How to use: Wear gloves, wipe spills, and store used fluid in sealed container for disposal.

Parts that may need replacement and why
- Transmission fluid (required)
- Why: Old fluid degrades and loses lubrication, cooling, and hydraulic properties.
- What to get: Correct ATF or gear oil for your transmission. Common Toyota automatics use Toyota Type T-IV or newer Toyota ATF WS; manuals often use GL-4 75W-90 gear oil. Confirm exact spec in service manual or on transmission tag.
- Transmission filter (automatic)
- Why: Removes metal particles and contaminants; should be replaced when pan is removed.
- What to get: OEM or equivalent filter for your transmission model (match vehicle year/model).
- Pan gasket or RTV gasket maker (automatic)
- Why: Prevents leaks after pan removal; old gasket will not reseal reliably.
- What to get: New OEM-style gasket or high-temp gasket maker per manual instructions.
- Drain plug crush washer (washer)
- Why: New washer ensures tight seal to prevent leaks when reinstalling drain plug.
- What to get: Copper/aluminum crush washer sized for your drain plug.
- Transmission pan (only if damaged)
- Why: Severe corrosion or warping causes leaks; replacement restores sealing surface.
- What to get: OEM or aftermarket pan sized for your transmission.
- Bolts (if stripped or corroded)
- Why: Replace any damaged fasteners to ensure correct torque and safety.
- What to get: Grade-matching bolts of correct length and thread pitch.

Automatic transmission fluid change — procedure (general; adapt to your model)
- Warm up engine for 5–10 minutes to bring ATF to operating temperature; turn engine off.
- Safely lift vehicle with jack and support with jack stands; chock wheels.
- Place drain pan under transmission pan.
- If transmission has a drain plug:
- Remove drain plug with correct socket or wrench; allow fluid to drain completely into pan.
- Replace crush washer on plug and reinstall, torque to spec.
- If no drain plug or you want deeper drain:
- Loosen pan bolts gradually around pan to let fluid drip as you progressively release tension; leave two bolts near one corner partially threaded to control drop, then lower pan carefully.
- Catch bulk fluid in drain pan and avoid sudden drops that spill.
- Once pan removed:
- Inspect pan for metal shavings and the magnet(s); clean magnet(s) and pan with rag and brake cleaner.
- Remove old filter (usually held by bolts or just pushed in); note orientation and mounting; replace with new filter.
- Clean mating surface on transmission case with scraper and rag until clean and flat.
- Install new gasket or apply RTV per manual; fit new pan and hand-thread bolts.
- Tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern incrementally to specified torque using torque wrench.
- Refill fluid:
- Use funnel or pump to add new ATF through the dipstick tube until about the lower end of the dipstick’s fill range (refer to manual for initial amount and final level procedure). Typical partial fill after pan drop might be 4–6 liters/quarts depending on transmission.
- Start engine, let idle, cycle through gears (PRND) pausing at each gear to circulate fluid, then return to Park.
- With engine idling and transmission at operating temperature, check fluid level on dipstick and add slowly until level is within spec. Avoid overfilling.
- Check for leaks with engine idling; re-torque drain plug/pan bolts if needed after cool down.
- Dispose of old fluid properly.

Manual transmission (gearbox) fluid change — procedure (general)
- Warm up vehicle briefly, park on level surface, chock wheels and use jack stands if needed for clearance.
- Locate transmission drain plug on the gearbox underside; position drain pan beneath.
- Remove fill plug first (usually on side) to allow air in and make draining easier.
- Remove drain plug and let fluid drain completely.
- Inspect drained fluid for metal flakes or water contamination (milky fluid = coolant contamination; consult mechanic).
- Replace drain plug crush washer and reinstall; torque to spec.
- Refill through fill hole until fluid begins to drip out; this indicates full level.
- Replace fill plug and torque to spec.
- Typical fluids are gear oil 75W-90 GL-4 or as specified by Toyota; confirm with manual.

Fluid type and quantities (general guidance)
- Why check manual: Exact fluid type (ATF T-IV vs ATF WS or other) and capacity depend on transmission model and year.
- Common ATF types for older Toyota autos: Toyota Type T-IV; newer models often use Toyota ATF WS. Manuals usually specify gear oil grade (GL-4 vs GL-5).
- Typical quantities:
- Automatic (pan drop + refill): commonly 4–9 liters/quarts added during a pan/filter service; full torque-converter exchange requires more and specialized equipment.
- Manual gearbox: 1–3 liters/quarts depending on model.
- Always confirm exact capacity and fluid type in the service manual or vehicle tag.

Why a professional service/exchange machine may be required
- Torque converter and cooler lines hold substantial ATF that a pan drain does not remove; a full fluid exchange requires machine or disconnecting cooler lines — more complex and may require specialty tools or shop.
- Complex transmissions (electronic, sealed units) may need dealer tools/scan tool for bleed/leveling procedures.

Common mistakes to avoid
- Do not rely on jack alone — always use stands.
- Do not overfill transmission — overfill causes foaming and erratic shifts.
- Do not use the wrong fluid — can cause slipping, damage, or shortened life.
- Do not skip replacing filter and gasket when pan is removed — old filter/gasket cause contamination and leaks.
- Do not overtighten pan bolts—strip threads or warp pan; use torque wrench and correct spec.

Disposal
- Store used fluid in sealed container and take to an auto parts store or recycling center that accepts used oil/transmission fluid.

Final concise checklist (before you start)
- Correct fluid type and quantity identified
- New filter and pan gasket (AT) and crush washer acquired
- Floor jack, two jack stands, wheel chocks
- Socket set, torque wrench, drain pan, funnel or pump
- Rags, gloves, brake cleaner, flashlight

No Yapping — done.
rteeqp73

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