Summary: locate the leak, identify the leaking component, carry out the repair that replaces or reseals the failed sealing surface (seal, gasket, line, pan), and verify. Below are ordered diagnostic steps followed by the common repair procedures and the theory of why each fix works.

A. Safety, preparations, and tools (do these first)
1. Safety: work on level ground, use jack stands, wheel chocks, gloves and eye protection. Disconnect battery if you’ll be under the vehicle or removing electrical connectors.
2. Fluids & parts: get the correct transmission fluid for your vehicle (check Toyota spec for the model/transmission), a replacement seal/gasket/line, new crush washers if banjo fittings are present, and any transmission drain/ fill plugs recommended by Toyota.
3. Tools: basic hand tools, torque wrench, jack and stands, drain pan, scraper, gasket sealant if required, brake cleaner or solvent, lint‑free rags, LED inspection light, UV dye and UV lamp (optional), transmission jack if removing the gearbox.
4. Clean first: cleaning the area before diagnosis is essential — a dirty transmission will hide the leak.

B. Diagnostic sequence (in order)
1. Clean the transmission and surrounding area thoroughly (degrease with solvent). Theory: fresh cleaning eliminates old fluid trails so you can see new fluid and trace the origin.
2. Run the engine/drive the vehicle briefly to warm and circulate fluid (if safe). Park on stands so you can inspect underneath. Theory: Leaks often only appear under pressure and when hot; warming fluid makes leaks show.
3. Visual inspection from lowest to highest points: pan gasket seam, drain/fill plugs, cooler lines and fittings, axle/shaft seals (input/output/tailshaft), torque converter/ bellhousing seam, transfer case seams. Use a bright light and rags to trace the drip to its highest point (source is usually upstream). Theory: fluid follows gravity — the highest wet point usually indicates the leak origin.
4. Use absorbent paper towels or white rags — place them at suspected locations and run again briefly to see which rag becomes wet. Theory: isolates the leak to one area.
5. If location unclear, add a small amount of UV dye to the transmission, run, and inspect with UV lamp. Theory: dye traces pressurized or small leaks that are otherwise hard to see.
6. Check fluid level and condition. Very low fluid can indicate a long‑term leak and may have damaged internals; burnt smell indicates overheating. Theory: low fluid may require fluid change and indicates severity/timing of repair.

C. Common leak sources and ordered repairs (each section: how to do it, then why it fixes the fault)

1) Pan gasket leak (automatic transmissions)
- Steps:
a. Warm vehicle, drain ATF into a pan by loosening drain plug (if equipped) or remove pan bolts gradually, catching fluid.
b. Remove pan, clean mating surfaces thoroughly, remove old gasket or RTV.
c. Inspect pan for warpage or dents; replace if damaged.
d. Fit new gasket or apply manufacturer‑approved sealant, reinstall pan and bolts to Toyota torque sequence and values.
e. Refill with correct amount/type of ATF, bleed if needed, run and check for leaks.
- Theory: The pan gasket seals the mating surface between pan and transmission case. Over time gasket crushes, hardens, or oil contamination causes it to fail. Replacing the gasket restores the compressible sealing material and correct clamping force, eliminating the path for fluid to escape.

2) Transmission cooler line or fitting leak
- Steps:
a. Inspect hoses, clamps and metal lines for cracks, bends, or loose fittings.
b. Tighten fittings to spec; replace damaged hose or line and any corroded banjo bolts or fittings.
c. Replace crush washers on banjo joints and torque to spec; purge air, refill fluid.
d. Pressure‑test by running engine and cycling through gears.
- Theory: Cooler lines operate under pressure and can crack or lose sealing where banjo bolts use crush washers. Replacing the hose/washer restores a new, deformable sealing surface that conforms under torque and eliminates leaks.

3) Pan magnet or drain/fill plug leak
- Steps:
a. Inspect drain and fill plugs for damaged threads or crushed washers.
b. Replace drain plug crush washers or O‑rings; if threads are damaged, repair or replace the pan (or use helicoil only if appropriate).
c. Reinstall, torque to spec, refill fluid.
- Theory: The plug uses an O‑ring/crush washer that deforms to seal. Replace the sealing element or restore correct thread engagement to stop seepage.

4) Output shaft/axle seal (manual or automatic rear seal)
- Steps:
a. Raise vehicle, remove driveshaft/axle from transmission output yoke.
b. Remove old seal: pry carefully to avoid damaging bore.
c. Inspect seal bore and shaft for scoring; polish minor scratches; replace seal with correct orientation and seated flush using a seal driver.
d. Reinstall driveshaft/axle, torque to spec, refill/check fluid level, test drive.
- Theory: Shaft seals are radial lip seals that keep pressurized fluid in while allowing a rotating shaft to pass. Lip wear, hardening, or shaft scoring allows fluid to pass. Installing a new seal restores the elastomeric lip that contacts the shaft creating a hydrodynamic/pressure barrier.

5) Input shaft/front pump seal or torque converter seal (requires transmission removal)
- Steps:
a. Drain fluid, remove driveshaft(s), unbolt transmission from engine, support and remove transmission (use proper transmission jack).
b. With gearbox out, remove the torque converter or input shaft seal.
c. Inspect mating surfaces: pump shaft, torque converter pilot, and seal bore for wear. Replace seal and correct any damaged hardware.
d. Refit transmission, torque bolts to spec, refill with proper amount/type, test.
- Theory: These internal seals are exposed to high pressure and rotational movement. When they fail, pressurized fluid is forced past the seal into bellhousing/engine area. Replacement restores static and dynamic sealing features and correct preload/clearance, stopping the route for fluid escape.

6) Transfer case, output flange, or yoke seal
- Steps:
a. Diagnose whether leak is transmission or transfer case by locating fluid type/colour and highest wet point.
b. For transfer case seal replacement: remove driveshaft, replace seal like output shaft seal, inspect yoke and mating surfaces, reassemble, refill transfer case fluid.
- Theory: Same as shaft seals — the new seal reestablishes the contact lip and prevents fluid migration out along rotating shafts.

7) Bellhousing/seam or dowel pin leak (rare)
- Steps:
a. Inspect bellhousing seam for seepage. If fluid is coming from between engine and transmission, check for failed internal seals (torque converter seal) before attempting seam repairs.
b. If bellhousing itself is cracked/warped, replace the housing or the affected part per manufacturer guidance.
- Theory: Fluid at the seam often indicates an internal seal failure pushing fluid out; replacing the internal seal stops fluid before it reaches the seam. Structural damage requires replacement because cracks cannot seal under pressure.

D. Final steps after repair (always do)
1. Refill with correct fluid to the correct level. Use manufacturer check procedure (engine running/cold/hot as required). Theory: Correct level ensures proper hydraulic pressure, lubrication and cooling; overfill or underfill causes leaks or damage.
2. Torque bolts to Toyota specifications and follow bolt tightening sequence. Theory: Uneven or under torque causes gasket stress and leaks.
3. Run the vehicle through operating temperature and inspect for leaks; test drive and recheck. Theory: Confirms repair under real operating conditions.
4. Dispose of used fluid properly.

E. How each repair fixes the fault — concise recap
- Gasket/pan replacement replaces a failed static gasket that lost compressibility or was damaged.
- Hose/line replacement removes cracked/porous or loose fittings and restores a pressurized fluid path with proper sealing (new washers/clamps).
- Shaft/seal replacement replaces worn elastomer sealing lips that no longer exclude fluid from rotating interfaces.
- Internal seal (torque converter/input pump) replacement restores dynamic sealing at high‑pressure interfaces; often requires transmission removal because the seal is inside the bellhousing.
- Correct reassembly, torque, and fluid level restore the designed clamping force and hydraulic conditions so the new seals/gaskets can function as intended.

Common pitfalls to avoid (short)
- Don’t reuse old crush washers or warped gaskets.
- Don’t overfill transmission.
- Don’t substitute incorrect fluid type.
- Don’t install seals backwards; clean surfaces thoroughly before seating a new seal.
- If you find severe scoring, pitting, or warped parts, seals alone won’t fix the leak — replace the damaged component.

That’s the ordered diagnostic and repair logic with the theory behind why each repair stops the leak.
rteeqp73

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TOYOTA 22RE ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1/2 - Teardown and analysis of a poor running 22R Toyota legend... My 1985 Celica GT Coupe was barely running when I bought it, but I knew that I could bring the legendary 22R-E back to life!

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1) Define the fault and choose the correct lift method
- Action: Decide why you’re lifting (clearance, larger tires, recover sagging springs) and pick a kit type appropriate for the vehicle’s suspension (coil spacers or new coils/coilovers for independent/coil fronts; torsion bar keys for torsion-bar fronts; spring blocks/add-a-leaf or full replacement leaf packs for leaf-rear; extended shackles or replacement springs where applicable).
- Theory: Different suspensions react differently: adding a spacer to a coil spring increases spring preload and ride height but can change spring rate/ride quality; new coils or coilovers restore correct geometry and damping; leaf springs change static length and spring rate. Choosing the right method matches required lift without overstressing components.
- How it fixes the fault: Correct selection restores desired ride height and clears the obstruction or corrects sag while maintaining acceptable handling.

2) Pre-install inspection and measurements
- Action: Measure current ride height (wheel center to fender) front and rear, inspect springs, shocks, control arms, bushings, brake lines, sway bar links, track bar, driveshaft angles, and steering components. Record tire size.
- Theory: Baseline measurements and component condition determine whether additional changes (longer shocks, extended brake lines, drop brackets) are necessary and predict geometry changes.
- Fix: Identifies worn parts that would fail after lift; replacing them prevents secondary faults post-lift.

3) Safety and vehicle support
- Action: Park on level ground, chock wheels, raise vehicle with jack, secure on quality jack stands under the frame. Remove wheels.
- Theory: Solid support isolates suspension so components can hang or be compressed safely.
- Fix: Prevents accidents/damage during the lift process.

4) Disassemble only what’s required
- Action: Unbolt components that prevent spring/strut removal: shock top/bottom bolts, sway bar end links, brake line brackets, ABS sensor wires, track bar/steering link if required. For torsion bars, relieve preload per factory procedure.
- Theory: Freeing these components allows safe spring removal and prevents binding or bending of links.
- Fix: Prevents tearing or over-stressing components when height changes.

5) Replace or fit front lift components (coil/torsion/strut)
- Action options & theory:
- Coil spacer: place spacer on top/bottom of coil or strut top mount. Theory: increases stack height, raising ride height with minimal change to mounting geometry. Rebound/camber may shift slightly.
- New coils/coilovers: replace springs with taller/higher-rate coils or install coilovers with adjustable ride height and damping. Theory: corrects spring rate and ride height intentionally; coilovers allow tuned damping to compensate for higher center of gravity.
- Torsion-bar key: re-index torsion bars using a torsion key to increase preload. Theory: raises front by increasing torsional twist in the bar; changes effective spring rate and ride height but can reduce suspension travel or change ride harshness.
- How it fixes the fault: Restores or increases front ride height and spring capability to carry loads/tires without sag.

6) Replace or fit rear lift components (leaf springs/blocks/shackles)
- Action options & theory:
- Block lift: insert lift block between axle and leaf spring perpendicularly and use longer U-bolts. Theory: increases static axle-to-frame distance without changing spring geometry or axle wrap characteristics much. Can increase pinion angle negatively.
- New leaf pack: install longer/leafs or add-a-leaf. Theory: adds length and spring rate, correcting sag and providing more lift while maintaining better spring alignment.
- Extended shackles: lengthen the rear eye-to-eye effective length to droop the axle and increase height. Theory: changes pivot geometry, increasing ride height but altering spring arc and suspension travel.
- How it fixes the fault: Raises rear height or corrects sagging springs while restoring load-carrying capacity.

7) Replace shocks with longer or adjustable units
- Action: Fit shocks sized for the new extended travel/ride height (longer extended length).
- Theory: Stock shocks will bottom out or top out when travel increases; proper shocks maintain damping across new travel range and control body motions.
- Fix: Restores damping control, prevents harsh bottoming or uncontrolled oscillation.

8) Restore, adapt, or replace ancillary components to suit new geometry
- Action: Fit longer brake lines or relocate brackets; extend ABS sensor wires; replace or relocate sway bar end links; install track bar drop bracket or adjustable track bar; fit adjustable/control arms if required; check driveshaft angle—may need CV/Slip-yoke modification or adjustable track bar and/or transfer case drop.
- Theory: Lifting moves axle and chassis relative positions—hard mounts like brake lines and brackets become tight; track bar/steering geometry and driveshaft/CV angles change and can create binding, bump steer, or rapid wear.
- Fix: Prevents brake line rupture, ABS sensor damage, steering pull, premature U-joint/CV failure, and instability.

9) Reinstall components and torque to spec
- Action: Reattach shocks, sway-bar links, brake line brackets, track bar, etc. Torque all hardware to manufacturer spec. Reinstall wheels, lower vehicle to ground so suspension settles, then torque lug nuts.
- Theory: Proper torque ensures predictable clamping forces and prevents movement/loosening under load. Letting suspension settle ensures spring seats and alignment positions stabilize.
- Fix: Prevents fastener failure and ensures geometry is as intended when vehicle bears its weight.

10) Alignment and geometry correction
- Action: Get a full professional alignment: toe, camber, caster as required. If lift altered caster/track bar position, use adjustable components to restore alignment. Check and set steering centering and bump steer if adjustable.
- Theory: Lift alters control arm angles and steering link geometry; alignment restores tire contact patch behavior and steering stability.
- Fix: Eliminates wandering, uneven tire wear, and unsafe handling.

11) Static checks and road test
- Action: Inspect for binding, rubbing, fluid leaks, loose hardware, brake line tension, ABS/wiring slack. Test drive at low speed, listen for noises, re-check after 50–100 km and re-torque U-bolts/controls.
- Theory: Initial settling and thermal expansion can change torque and seating; early checks catch failures before they become dangerous.
- Fix: Detects and corrects secondary faults caused by the lift before they escalate.

12) Considerations, trade-offs, and lifespan impacts
- Action: Be aware and plan for these:
- Steering geometry/caster changes may be partially corrected with adjustable arms or caster/camber kits.
- Increased center of gravity and changed damping require tuned shocks and possibly sway bar modifications.
- Driveline angles may accelerate U-joint/CV wear—address with adjustable control arms, slip-yoke eliminators, or double-cardan driveshafts if needed.
- Warranty, payload capacity and legal limits: check local laws.
- Theory: Raising the chassis upsets designed load paths and kinematics; compensating components restore acceptable dynamic behavior.
- Fix: Reduces accelerated wear and handling degradation; maintains safety margins.

13) Final preventive maintenance schedule
- Action: Inspect fasteners, U-bolts, control arm bushings, shocks, and brake lines every 1,000–2,000 miles for the first 5,000 miles, then regularly. Re-check alignment annually or after significant jarring.
- Theory: New geometry stresses parts differently; early checks find fatigue or settling issues.
- Fix: Prevents late failures and maintains intended ride/handling.

Concise summary of how the repair fixes the fault:
- Lifting addresses the root symptom (low ride height or lack of clearance) by increasing the static spring stack length or torsional preload or changing leaf geometry so the axle/frame separation increases. Replacing or upgrading springs and shocks restores proper spring rate and damping for the new height so the vehicle still controls body motions. Adjusting and extending brake lines, steering, and driveline components prevents the new geometry from causing binding, line failure, steering wander, or driveline wear—these corrective measures convert a simple height change into a safe, durable system.

Safety note (brief): Always use correct rated components, follow torque specs, and perform a professional alignment.
rteeqp73