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Toyota 5L-E engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & consumables
- Floor jack and 2 quality jack stands (capacity > vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2" drive breaker bar + extensions, 3/8" drive ratchet
- Socket set (metric), deep sockets for nuts
- Combination wrenches (metric)
- Torque wrench (range to ~150 N·m)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Pry bar and rubber mallet
- Wire brush / file and shop rags
- Grease for bushings (silicone or molybdenum grease supplied with polyurethane bush kits)
- Replacement parts: sway (stabilizer) bar bushings (OEM or polyurethane), mounting brackets/clamps if corroded, sway bar end-link kit (recommended to replace both sides), new nuts/bolts/washers if original hardware is damaged/corroded
- Optional: impact wrench, Allen key/hex socket to hold link stud, torch for corroded bolts (use cautiously)
- Safety gear: safety glasses, gloves

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Park on level ground, engine off, transmission in Park (or 1st gear for manual), handbrake on.
- Chock rear wheels before lifting the front (and vice versa when working rear).
- Always use jack stands under rated points — never rely on the hydraulic jack alone.
- Wear eye protection when using penetrating oil, heat, or hammering. Be aware of brake/ABS lines near mounts.
- If heating bolts, avoid rubber/plastic components and fuel lines.

Overview of repair
Common stabilizer repairs: replace worn bushings or replace/repair bent/broken end links or whole bar. Steps below cover removing bar, replacing bushings and end links, and reinstall.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Chock wheels and loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly with vehicle on ground.
- Lift vehicle at the recommended jacking point and support on jack stands. Remove front wheels for access (or rear if doing rear bar).

2) Access and inspection
- Inspect sway bar, bushings, brackets, and end links. Note orientation and routing of bar and brackets — take photos for reference.
- Spray penetrating oil on all nuts/bolts at the end links and bushing brackets. Let soak 10–15 minutes; reapply if heavily corroded.

3) Remove end links
- Stabilizer end link connects bar to control arm/strut. Place a wrench on the nut and hold the stud with an Allen key or second wrench/hex socket if the stud turns. Use breaker bar if needed.
- Remove the upper/lower nuts securing the end link. For ball-joint style links, you may need to pry the link stud out of the control arm/strut with a pry bar or gently hammer with a drift while supporting the arm. Keep the link orientation for replacement reference.
- If links are seized, use penetrating oil, then an impact gun or heat. Be cautious with heat around rubber/ABS lines.

4) Remove bushing bracket bolts
- Unbolt the two brackets/clamps that hold the sway bar bushings to the chassis. Use a breaker bar for stubborn bolts. Remove bracket halves and slide the bar out of the bushings.
- If brackets are corroded and won’t come apart, you may need to cut them off or use a hammer and chisel. Replace bracket hardware if damaged.

5) Remove the sway bar (if replacing entire bar)
- With end links and brackets removed, pull the sway bar out from its mounts and remove from vehicle.
- Clean the mounting surfaces on the chassis and control arms with a wire brush/file. Remove rust, old grease and debris.

6) Prepare new bushings and bar
- If using split bushings: apply supplied bushing grease inside the bushing split evenly. For OEM rubber bushings use silicone grease. For polyurethane use the grease supplied (do not use petroleum grease).
- Slide bushings onto the sway bar at the correct locations. Bushings usually have a locator groove; orient them so the flat face contacts bracket surface as originally installed.

7) Reinstall sway bar and brackets
- Position the sway bar back into its original routing. Fit the bushings in their mounting points.
- Place bracket halves over bushings and hand-thread bolts. Align bracket so it sits flush against chassis; use pry bar to help position.
- Tighten bracket bolts snugly but do not over-torque the bushings in a preloaded position — final torque after vehicle is back on the ground may be required per service manual. (Typical bracket bolt range: 30–60 N·m — confirm spec for your model.)

8) Install new end links
- Install new end links through control arm/strut and sway bar. Use new nuts/bolts wash- ers if provided. Hold the stud with the appropriate hex/Allen or second wrench while tightening nut.
- Torque end link nuts to specified value. If the end link uses a conical washer or grooved stud, ensure correct orientation and use new locking nuts/cotter pins if applicable. (Typical end link nut range: 40–100 N·m — confirm with manual.)

9) Final torque sequence
- With vehicle at normal ride height (recommended), torque the bushing bracket bolts to the service manual specification. If you tightened brackets while suspended, loosen and re-torque at ride height if manual requires.
- Torque end links to spec.

10) Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle
- Refit wheels, tighten lug nuts in star pattern to wheel spec, lower vehicle to ground, then final torque lug nuts to spec.
- Test drive at low speed and listen for clunks/knocks. Re-check torque after 50–100 km (30–60 miles).

How each tool is used (quick)
- Breaker bar: apply steady force to break loose corroded nuts without quickly snapping the socket.
- Impact wrench: speeds removal of stubborn nuts, but final torque must be set with a torque wrench.
- Torque wrench: used for final, accurate tightening of bracket bolts and end link nuts to spec.
- Pry bar/rubber mallet: to separate seized components or align holes for bolts.
- Penetrating oil & heat: used to loosen rusted fasteners — heat expands metal and breaks rust bonds. Heat only as last resort and keep flame away from rubber lines and fuel.
- Hex/Allen holding tool: prevents stud rotation while loosening/tightening nuts on end links.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing worn end links or bushings: they fail prematurely. Replace both sides and all related hardware if deteriorated.
- Over-tightening bushing brackets with the suspension unloaded: may preload bushings and cause binding/noise. Torque final spec at vehicle ride height if manual requires.
- Not greasing polyurethane bushings: causes squeaks; use supplied grease only.
- Forgetting orientation/placement of bar: wrong angle or flipping bar can change handling and cause binding. Follow marks/photos.
- Stripped or broken bolts from excessive force: score threads with a die or use replacement bolts rather than trying to reuse damaged hardware.
- Damaging ABS/brake lines when using pry bars or heat: secure/inspect lines before working and keep heat away.
- Not replacing corroded bracket hardware: leads to future failure. Use new bolts/nuts if corroded or stretched.

Replacement parts recommended
- Sway bar bushings (OEM or polyurethane) — matched to bar diameter
- End link kit (both sides)
- Bracket/clamp replacement if rusted
- New bolts/nuts/washers if original shows corrosion or damage
- Bushing grease (if polyurethane kit not already supplied)

Final check
- Confirm all fasteners are torqued to spec.
- Visual check for clearance to brake hoses, wiring, and exhaust.
- Road-test for handling and noise; re-check hardware after short test drive.

Done.
rteeqp73

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