Tools & parts (minimal): jack and jackstands, wheel chocks, breaker/ratchet, sockets/wrenches, torque wrench, prybar, penetrating oil, rubber mallet, new anti‑roll (sway) bar or bushings and endlinks, silicone grease for polyurethane or factory bushing lube. Safety: always support vehicle on stands; do not rely on a jack.

Theory summary (short)
- Function: the anti‑roll (sway) bar is a torsion spring that ties left and right suspension arms together. When the vehicle corners, one side compresses and the other extends; the bar twists and resists that relative motion, reducing body roll and keeping tire contact more equal.
- Parts: the bar itself (torsion member), bushings that clamp it to the chassis (control free rotation but prevent lateral movement), and endlinks that connect the bar ends to lower control arms or struts. Wear/looseness in bushings or endlinks allows free movement or clunking and reduces effective roll stiffness.
- Fault mechanics: worn bushings allow the bar to shift or bind instead of smoothly torsioning; loose endlinks let the bar flop, making noise and reducing anti‑roll effect. Replacing components restores a rigid, properly located torsion path so lateral forces are transferred as designed.

Ordered procedure with theory at each step
1) Preparation and inspection
- Action: park on level ground, chock wheels, loosen road wheel lug nuts slightly.
- Theory: verifying symptoms and condition (look for cracked/flattened bushings, split rubbers, loose endlinks) tells you whether to replace bar, bushings, or links. Loosening wheels first makes later removal easier.

2) Lift and support vehicle
- Action: raise vehicle and place on jackstands under specified lift points. Remove wheels if needed for access.
- Theory: with wheels off/vehicle supported, you can access endlinks and mounting brackets safely. The suspension must be supported to avoid uncontrolled droop that changes geometry.

3) Support the suspension arm / limit droop
- Action: support the lower control arm (or axle) with a jack or stand so the suspension doesn’t fall when endlinks are disconnected.
- Theory: relieving gravitational load prevents overextension of ball joints/CV joints and keeps relative positions similar so reassembly doesn’t require extreme refit.

4) Free endlink(s)
- Action: apply penetrating oil to nuts/bolts; remove cotter pins if present; loosen and remove endlink nuts. If top/bottom endlink bolts are under tension, keep control of the link so it doesn’t drop.
- Theory: endlinks transfer the bar’s torsion to the control arm. Removing them isolates the bar. Worn endlinks often cause clunks—replacing them restores rigid connection and consistent lever arm.

5) Release mounting brackets/bushings
- Action: unbolt the bushing bracket(s) that clamp the bar to the body. Remove brackets and slide the bar out of the bushings.
- Theory: bushings locate the bar and let it rotate. Old bushings can deform and let the bar move laterally or bind. Replacing them re‑centers the bar and allows clean torsion.

6) Remove the anti‑roll bar (if replacing whole bar)
- Action: lower the bar out of the chassis, manoeuvring clear of links and brackets.
- Theory: inspect the bar for bends, cracks, or fatigue. If the bar is bent or corroded at fatigue points, replace it; otherwise new bushings and endlinks often suffice.

7) Prepare new components
- Action: fit new bushings to the bar in correct orientation; lubricate with recommended grease if rubber or poly requires it; compare new bar to old for length/arm orientation.
- Theory: correct bushing placement and lubrication prevent binding and ensure free, repeatable torsion. Polyurethane vs rubber behave differently—poly is stiffer and transmits more noise if not lubricated.

8) Refit anti‑roll bar and bushings
- Action: position the bar under chassis, fit bushings around it, loosely install brackets. Do not fully torque yet if endlinks still need alignment.
- Theory: loose fitting allows slight movement to align endlinks without preloading or binding the bushings.

9) Reattach endlinks
- Action: connect endlinks to control arms and bar ends, torque nuts to specification. If links contain ball joints, ensure correct orientation and that boots are undamaged.
- Theory: correct torque and alignment give the intended lever arm and geometry. New rigid endlinks eliminate play and make the bar effective at resisting roll.

10) Final torque and checks
- Action: with vehicle at curb height or suspension loaded as recommended, torque bushing brackets and endlink fasteners to factory specs. Cycle suspension through travel and re‑check torque.
- Theory: bushing clamp torque under load is critical—torquing with the suspension unloaded can pre‑twist or compress bushings and cause noise or premature wear. Cycling settles parts into proper position.

11) Reinstall wheels, lower vehicle, road test
- Action: reinstall wheels, lower vehicle, torque wheel nuts to spec, perform low‑speed test drive to check for noise, clunks, and handling. Re‑check fasteners after short mileage.
- Theory: road test confirms the torsional path is restored — reduced body roll, no clunking, stable steering feel. Re‑checking ensures nothing backed off during first use.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Removes play: replacing worn endlinks/bushings eliminates free movement that caused clunking and delayed roll resistance.
- Restores geometry: new components locate the bar correctly so the intended lever arms act on the control arms, returning designed roll stiffness.
- Restores predictable torsion: new bushings allow the bar to twist smoothly, re‑establishing the resistance curve the vehicle was engineered for; result is reduced body roll and improved handling/traction.
- Removes noise: replacing failing rubber or seized joints eliminates metal‑on‑metal contact and impact noise.

Common gotchas (brief)
- Seized bolts—penetrating oil and heat may be required. Replace damaged hardware.
- Torque specifications vary by model—use the factory manual for exact values.
- Replace only what’s necessary: if bushings are bad but bar is sound, full bar replacement isn’t always required.
- If using stiffer poly bushings, expect firmer ride and more NVH.

That’s the procedure with the engineering rationale.
rteeqp73

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