Goal: show you, step‑by‑step, how the valve mechanism on a Toyota B / 2B diesel works, why valve clearance adjustment (and inspection) is needed, what each component is and does, and how to adjust the clearances safely as a beginner mechanic. No fluff — straight instructions, explanations and common failure points.

Quick summary first
- The 2B is an overhead‑valve (OHV) pushrod engine: camshaft in the block, lifters → pushrods → rocker arms → valves in the head.
- “Valve adjustment” = setting the clearance (lash) between the rocker (adjuster screw) and the valve stem so valves open and close correctly.
- Do this regularly because thermal expansion and wear change the clearance; wrong clearance causes noise, poor power, burned valves or loss of compression.

Important safety notes
- Work on a cooled or warm engine per the factory recommendation; if unsure, warm to operating temp then shut off (thermal expansion matters). Do disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid accidental cranking.
- Wear eye/hand protection, keep loose clothing/jewelry away from moving parts.
- Keep a clean working area so dirt doesn’t enter the valve train when cover is off.

Parts you will see and what they do (detailed descriptions)
- Valve (head + stem): closes against the seat to seal the combustion chamber. Intake valve lets air in; exhaust valve lets exhaust out.
- Valve seat: the hardened ring in the head that the valve face seals against.
- Valve guide: a bronze/steel sleeve that centers the valve stem and keeps oil out of the combustion chamber.
- Valve spring and retainer: returns the valve to closed position when rocker/lifter releases.
- Keepers/collets (if applicable): small pieces that lock retainer to valve stem.
- Cylinder head: houses valves, seats, guides, springs and rocker shaft.
- Camshaft (in block): has lobes whose shape controls valve timing and lift. It turns driven by the timing gears/chains/belt.
- Cam lobe base circle: the part of the cam lobe where nothing is lifting the valve (used as reference for setting clearances).
- Lifter (tappet): rides on the cam lobe and transmits motion to pushrod.
- Pushrod: a hardened rod that transmits motion from lifter to rocker.
- Rocker arm: pivots on a shaft or pedestal; one end presses on the valve stem (or valve tapper) and the other is contacted by the pushrod.
- Adjuster screw & locknut: on the rocker arm, the screw sets the clearance between rocker and valve stem.
- Rocker cover / valve cover and gasket: seals the top of the head and retains oil.
- Crank pulley/timing marks: used to rotate engine to known positions (TDC).
Analogy: think of the valve train as a set of hinged doors (valves) opened by rods (pushrods) pushed by shaped cams (cam lobes). Clearance is like the small gap you leave so the hinge isn’t jammed when things heat up.

Why valve adjustment is needed (theory)
- Metals expand as they heat: valve stems, pushrods, rockers and head all grow different amounts. If clearance is too small when hot, a valve can be held slightly open at operating temperature → reduced compression, burned valve face/seat and poor performance.
- If clearance is too large, valves will slap (noise), valve timing/lift is reduced slightly → rough idle, loss of power and extra wear on the cam lobes and tappets.
- The cam lobe rotates and periodically pushes a lifter → pushrod → rocker to open a valve; when cam passes the lobe peak the spring closes the valve. Clearance ensures the valve fully closes and that the valve train isn’t preloaded.

How to tell a valve job/adjustment is needed (symptoms)
- Excessive valve clatter/noise (tappet noise).
- Rough idle, lack of power, increased smoke or poor fuel economy.
- Misfire or hard starting, loss of compression on a cylinder (can be tested with a compression tester).
- Burning smell or white/blue smoke (for exhaust valve damage).

Tools and supplies
- Metric socket set, ratchet, breaker bar.
- Wrench set and screwdriver or hex driver to hold adjuster screw.
- Feeler gauge set (metric, fine blades).
- Small torque wrench (for valve cover bolts/good practice).
- Clean rags, parts cleaner, small brush.
- Replacement valve cover gasket (recommended).
- Pen and paper to record clearances.
- Optional: magnetic tray for small parts, shop light.

Basic preparation
1. Park on level ground, apply parking brake. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly and anything obstructing access to valve cover.
3. Clean the area around the valve cover to avoid contamination.
4. Remove valve cover bolts and lift cover (replace gasket if required). Inspect rocker assembly for wear and sludge. Clean as needed.
5. Have the service manual if possible for exact numbers and torque specs. If you do not have it, use the feeler technique below and keep conservative care.

How to set valve clearance — step by step (reliable method for a pushrod engine)
General principle: set clearance only when the cam lobe for that valve is on its base circle (i.e., rocker arm is free to move). You’ll rotate the engine and check each rocker individually to find that base‑circle position.

1) Warm or cold?
- Manufacturer guidance is best. If unknown, warm engine to operating temperature (run 10–15 minutes), then shut off — this is common because you are setting clearance to compensate for operating temperature. If you prefer cold adjustment, be consistent and follow cold specs.

2) Find the crankshaft TDC marks
- Locate the timing marks on the crank pulley/damper and the timing cover. You will rotate the engine by turning the crank bolt clockwise with a socket until the marks align. TDC helps you orient the engine, but you don’t need to be exactly at TDC to adjust a valve; you only need to get the specific cam lobe on its base circle.

3) Adjust each valve using the “feel the rocker” method
- For each valve:
a) Rotate the engine slowly (clockwise) until the rocker arm you’re adjusting feels loose — you can wiggle it by hand and there’s free play. That means the cam lobe is on its base circle.
b) Insert the correct metric feeler gauge blade between the rocker (adjuster screw tip) and the top of the valve stem or the tappet, depending on your rocker design.
c) Tighten/loosen the adjuster screw until the feeler slides with a slight drag (not tight, not loose).
d) Hold the adjuster screw steady (with screwdriver/hex) and tighten the locknut to secure the screw. After tightening, recheck the clearance — sometimes tightening the locknut disturbs the setting; readjust as needed.
e) Write down the measured final clearance.

- Repeat for every valve. There are 8 valves on a 4‑cylinder diesel (2 intake + 2 exhaust per cylinder) — 8 adjustments total.
- After all valves are set, rotate the crankshaft two full turns (720°) clockwise and re‑check clearances — some adjustments can shift slightly after rotation.

Where to measure
- On many Toyota B/2B engines the adjuster screw on the rocker contacts the valve stem tip directly (or a tappet). Measure between the screw and the valve stem shoulder/top. If your rocker rides on a pedestal with a shims system, measure at the same point the manufacturer indicates. Use the thicker feeler for intake/exhaust spec if given.

Typical feel guideline (use factory spec if you have it)
- Because exact specs can vary by model/year, get the official spec if possible. Typical diesel OHV clearances are roughly:
- Intake: ~0.20–0.30 mm
- Exhaust: ~0.25–0.40 mm
These are only examples. If you don’t have the factory numbers, use the “slight drag” feeler rule and be conservative — too tight is more dangerous than slightly loose.

Finishing up
1) Clean the valve cover mating surfaces, fit a new gasket, and install the valve cover. Tighten bolts evenly to a low torque (finger-tight + a small fraction) — overtightening crushes the gasket.
2) Reinstall any removed intake parts and reconnect the battery.
3) Start the engine and listen: a slight change in valve noise is normal. Excessive noise may indicate an incorrect clearance — shut off and recheck.
4) Recheck after a short run and at next service interval.

What can go wrong and how to spot/fix it
- Too tight clearance:
- Symptoms: Engine runs poorly, loss of compression, overheating valve, burned valves or seats. Fix: correct clearances; if valve/seat is burnt, a valve job or head removal and seat replacement may be required.
- Too loose clearance:
- Symptoms: Loud ticking/clatter; reduced valve lift and performance. Fix: re‑adjust to correct clearance.
- Worn cam lobes or lifters:
- Symptoms: Excessive clearance or inability to set correct lash; noisy operation; uneven wear patterns. Fix: replace cam/lifters; sometimes requires machining.
- Bent or worn pushrods:
- Symptoms: Unstable clearances (one pushrod tests loose/loose or tight), poor valve action. Fix: replace pushrod(s).
- Stripped adjuster threads or rounded locknuts:
- Symptoms: Cannot lock the adjustment; it slips after tightening. Fix: replace rocker or adjuster assembly.
- Broken or weak valve spring:
- Symptoms: Valve float at higher RPMs, clack or rattle, misfires. Fix: replace springs/retainers; check seating.
- Oil supply issues (rocker feed blocked):
- Symptoms: Dry tapping noise, accelerated cam/lifter wear. Fix: clean oil galleries; restore oil feed; change oil/filter.
- Valve cover gasket leaks:
- Symptoms: Oil leaks at rocker cover. Fix: replace gasket and torques evenly.
- Reassembly mistakes:
- Symptoms: No start, misfire, oil leaks, stray parts left behind. Fix: re‑inspect assembly carefully.

Troubleshooting tips
- If one cylinder is weak after adjustment, do a compression test to check valve sealing.
- If a valve clearance cannot be brought to spec because adjuster hits end of travel, you may have a worn cam, collapsed lifter, or need a different length pushrod / shim.
- If you hear loud clatter immediately after an adjustment, recheck locknuts — they may have backed off. Always recheck after two revolutions.

Maintenance interval
- On older diesels like the 2B, periodic checks are common — many owners check valve lash every 10–20k km or at manufacturer intervals. Check whenever noisy, after heavy-duty use, or during regular servicing.

Final practical notes
- Take notes/photos before you remove the cover so you know the orientation and where each part goes.
- If you’re unsure about specs or find damaged parts, consider removing the head or consulting a shop manual or professional — valve burn or seat damage often requires machining.
- Keep everything clean — dirt in the valve train is a quick path to premature wear.

That’s the complete beginner‑friendly how/why/what of valves on a Toyota B / 2B: what every component is, how the system works, why adjustment is needed, a safe step‑by‑step method to set lash, and what can go wrong. Follow the method, use feeler gauges, and recheck after rotating the engine.
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