- Safety first (read before you start)
- Wear chemical-resistant gloves and safety glasses; diesel/fuel can irritate skin and eyes.
- Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area; no smoking, sparks, or open flames nearby.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental cranking or sparks.
- Have a fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids nearby.
- Catch and dispose of fuel properly — use a sealed container and local disposal rules.

- What “Toyota B 2B” likely means and which pump this guide covers
- Many Toyota vehicles with the “2B” diesel engine use a low‑pressure mechanical lift pump (diaphragm type) mounted on the engine block or injection pump housing; this guide covers replacing that mechanical lift pump.
- Do not attempt to rebuild or alter the high‑pressure injection pump unless you have specialized tools and training; injection pump work is best left to a diesel shop.

- Parts you will likely need and why
- Replacement mechanical fuel lift pump (OEM part or exact aftermarket match) — required because the diaphragm or internal valve fails over time causing poor fuel supply, hard starting, or leaks.
- New pump mounting gasket or O‑ring — prevents leaks where the pump bolts to the block; reuse of old gasket often causes leaks.
- New fuel line crush washers or new copper washers (if applicable) — fuel fittings can leak if washers are reused.
- New primary fuel filter (recommended) — when the pump fails it can dislodge debris; changing filter is cheap insurance.
- Thread locker or clean engine‑safe gasket sealant (only if specified by the pump manufacturer) — to secure bolts if required.
- Optional: new mounting bolts (if old bolts are corroded or stretched).

- Tools you should have (basic set plus a few extras) and how to use each
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric sizes 8–19 mm commonly) — for removing pump mounting bolts and bracket nuts. Use the correct socket size, pull the ratchet handle toward you for controlled force; extensions help reach recessed bolts.
- Combination wrench set (open and box end) — for holding fittings or nuts where a socket won't fit. Use the box end for highest torque and the open end for quick turning in tight spots.
- Fuel line/flaring (flare‑nut) wrench (metric) — made to grip the nut on the fuel line without rounding it. Fit the wrench fully over the nut and pull straight to loosen; do not use an adjustable wrench on flare nuts.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) — for hose clamps, small screws, prying gaskets carefully. Use the correct blade size to avoid stripping.
- Pliers (needle‑nose and slip joint) — for hose clamps, pulling off rubber hoses, holding small parts. Needle‑nose for precision; slip‑joint for general gripping.
- Torque wrench (in-lb/N·m and ft·lb ranges) — to tighten mounting bolts to factory torque spec so you don't crack the pump housing or leak. Set the specified torque and apply slow, steady force until it clicks.
- Drain pan (plastic or metal) — to catch fuel when you disconnect lines. Place it under the pump and keep a rag handy for spills.
- Clean rags and shop towels — for wiping fuel and keeping work area clean.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, Kroil) — to loosen corroded bolts; spray and let soak for a few minutes.
- Small brush or gasket scraper (plastic or brass) — to clean old gasket material off the mounting surface; use non‑metal if possible to avoid scoring.
- Jack and jack stands (if pump is under vehicle) — lift vehicle safely and support on stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Battery terminal wrench or 10 mm wrench — to disconnect the battery negative cable.
- Safety equipment: gloves, eye protection, and a well‑fitting mask if you’ll be working around fuel vapors.
- Optional: fuel line quick‑disconnect tool (if your vehicle uses quick‑disconnect fittings) — these are specific sized plastic tools that release the connector clips without damage.

- Preparing the vehicle
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal with battery terminal wrench to prevent sparks.
- Relieve any system pressure (diesel lift pumps are low pressure; still open a fuel cap to allow venting).
- If the pump is under the vehicle, raise the vehicle with jack and place jack stands under recommended lift points.

- Removing the old pump — step-by-step actions (do each step fully before the next)
- Locate the pump: visually find the mechanical lift pump on the block or near the injection pump.
- Place drain pan under pump to catch fuel drips.
- Loosen hose clamps on rubber fuel hoses with screwdriver or pliers and remove hoses; plug hoses or cap them with clean rags to avoid spills and contamination.
- Use a flare‑nut wrench to loosen the metal fuel line fittings; hold the line steady with another wrench if needed to avoid twisting.
- Remove any electrical connectors (if pump has a shutoff solenoid) by pulling the connector tab and gently pulling apart.
- Apply penetrating oil to mounting bolts, wait a few minutes, then remove the pump mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet or wrench.
- Remove pump from block and note orientation; expect fuel to spill — keep pan and rags ready.
- Clean the mounting surface with scraper and rags until free of old gasket material and debris.

- Installing the new pump
- Compare old pump to new one; ensure inlet/outlet and mounting points match.
- Fit new gasket or O‑ring to the pump mounting face. If manufacturer requires sealant, apply sparingly per instructions.
- Position pump in correct orientation and hand‑thread mounting bolts to avoid cross‑threading.
- Tighten mounting bolts snugly and use torque wrench to final torque to factory specification (if you don’t have the spec, tighten moderately; do not over‑torque—over‑tightening can crack pump housing).
- Reconnect fuel lines: use new copper/crush washers if applicable and tighten flare nuts with flare‑nut wrench until snug — do not round nuts.
- Reattach rubber hoses and clamp them securely with screwdrivers or pliers.
- Reconnect any electrical connectors.
- Replace fuel filter if you’re changing it now (recommended): remove old filter, lubricate new filter O‑ring with clean diesel, and install per directions; tighten to proper fit.

- Priming and checking for leaks
- Replace fuel cap and reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Prime the system: if vehicle has a manual primer lever on pump, operate it until firm and you see fuel flow without air bubbles; if not, turn ignition to ON (do not crank) a few times to energize fuel circuit (on diesel mechanical systems, priming may require hand pumping or cranking — consult pump instructions).
- Start engine and let idle; observe pump and all fittings for leaks for several minutes.
- If air is present, you may need to bleed the system by loosening a bleed screw (if present) until fuel flows solid, then retighten.
- Recheck torque on fittings after first run and inspect for seepage.

- Common problems and troubleshooting
- Continued hard starting or loss of power: check for air leaks at hoses or fittings and ensure filter is not clogged.
- Leaks at fittings: tighten with flare‑nut wrench and replace crush washers if necessary.
- No fuel flow: verify pump orientation, damaged internal diaphragm (if new pump is faulty replace it), or blocked lines.

- Why some extra/professional tools may be required
- Torque wrench: prevents over‑ or under‑tightening; recommended for proper sealing.
- Fuel line quick‑disconnect tool: required if your model uses quick‑disconnect fittings; it disengages the retaining clip without damage.
- Injection pump timing tools: if the high‑pressure injection pump is removed/adjusted, timing tools and calibration equipment are required — this is why injection pump service is best left to specialists.
- Bench vise and gear puller (rare): only if the old pump is stuck on studs; use carefully to avoid damage.

- Final checks and cleanup
- Tighten all fasteners to spec where possible; replace any corroded bolts.
- Start engine and test drive gently, watch for leaks and odd noises.
- Dispose of used fuel and old pump according to local hazardous waste rules.
- Store tools and clean work area.

- When to call a professional
- If the pump is the high‑pressure injection pump, or if timing/calibration of the injection pump might be affected.
- If you cannot stop a leak, cannot prime air out, or the engine runs poorly after replacement.

- Quick parts reference (examples)
- OEM-style mechanical lift pump for Toyota 2B diesel (search by engine model or vehicle VIN); part numbers vary by year/model — match by old pump shape and ports.
- Fuel filter element compatible with Toyota 2B fuel system (replace while doing pump).
- Copper crush washers for diesel fuel line fittings (metric sizes — match old ones).

- Final safety reminder
- Test in a safe area, keep fire extinguisher nearby, and if anything leaks or the engine backfires, shut off immediately and fix before further use.
rteeqp73

Toyota 2b 3400cc engine head new gisket install

BJ42 LX Landcruiser 3B Diesel Engine tear down and diagnose In this episode, we start digging into Paulie's 3B Diesel motor after failing to make it start, and we discover just how bad things ...

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