1) Safety & prep (always first)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, engage parking brake. Use rated jack and jack stands; never rely on the jack. Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Gather service manual/specs, basic hand tools, spring compressors (for coil springs/struts), ball-joint press, torque wrench. Clean work area.

2) Symptom-driven road test (theory: observe failure modes)
- Note noises (clunk, creak, squeak), handling faults (wandering, tramlining, understeer/oversteer), ride harshness or excessive bounce, uneven tire wear, steering play.
- How this helps: different components produce characteristic symptoms (loose steering → tie rod/steering rack or ball joint; clunk on bump → worn bushing/control arm/strut mount; continuous bounce → failed damper).

3) Visual and basic static checks (theory: eliminate obvious failures)
- Inspect tires (wear patterns show toe/camber problems), shocks/struts (oil leaks, dents), springs (broken leaves, sag), bushings (cracked/missing rubber), ball joints/tie rods (torn boots, grease loss).
- Do bounce test: push down on corner and release. If it bounces >2–3 times, damping is poor → shock/strut failure. How it diagnoses: springs store energy; dampers dissipate it. Excess bounce = lack of damping.
- Spin wheels on stands, check for play (rock wheel at 12/6 and 3/9 o’clock; play indicates ball joint or wheel bearing). How: play in vertical direction often ball joint; rotational/grinding often bearing.

4) Lift vehicle and remove wheels — systematic inspection
- Inspect control arm bushings for lateral play with pry bar; inspect sway bar links and end-links; inspect strut mounts and top mounts for play or noise; inspect lower control arm and subframe for rust/cracks.
- Why: suspension geometry depends on rigid mounts and intact bushings; worn bushings allow uncontrolled movement, changing camber/toe under load.

5) Diagnose which components must be repaired/replaced (map symptoms to parts)
- Loose steering/steering wheel play → tie rods, inner tie rods, steering rack, or worn idler/pitman (older designs).
- Clunk on compression/rebound → strut mount, lower control arm bushing, sway bar link, or ball joint.
- Continuous bounce/harsh ride → shock/strut damping failure.
- Nose dive or squat under braking/accel → weak/broken spring or failed mount.
- Uneven tire wear/camber changes → control arm bushings or ball joints, bent arm, subframe damage.
- Vibration at speed → worn wheel bearing, out-of-balance wheel, or loose suspension mount.

6) Repair order (logical sequence and why)
- A. Replace worn steering linkage (tie rods/inner rods) and correct any steering-rack play first.
- Theory: steering links directly affect toe and steering precision; fixing them removes play and prevents repetition of alignment changes you’ll set later.
- B. Replace ball joints and control arm bushings (or entire control arm assemblies) next.
- Theory: these set the kinematic pivot points. Worn pivot points add play and change camber/toe under load; replacing restores geometry and stability.
- C. Replace sway bar end-links/bushings.
- Theory: sway bar controls roll stiffness and body roll balance. Worn links produce clunks and change roll behavior; replacing restores predictable roll control.
- D. Replace shocks/struts and top mounts (and springs if sagged or broken).
- Theory: struts provide both structural lateral support (on MacPherson designs) and damping. New dampers restore energy dissipation, reduce bounce, and in strut cars restore final alignment once reassembled.
- E. Replace wheel bearings/hubs if excessive play or noise.
- Theory: bearings support radial/axial loads; play changes wheel alignment and can mimic steering/suspension faults.
- F. Replace subframe mounts, torsion bars, bump stops, or any mounting hardware as required.
- Theory: rigid, correctly located mounts keep geometry predictable; failing mounts alter static alignment and dynamic behavior.
- G. Final torque checks, reassembly, and four-wheel alignment.
- Theory: even new parts will produce incorrect tire contact patch unless toe/camber/caster are set. Alignment returns handling and tire wear to design parameters.

7) For each repair: brief how it fixes the fault
- Replacing tie rods: removes free play between steering rack and wheel; restores correct toe angle, eliminating wandering and uneven front tire wear.
- Replacing ball joints/control arms: restores fixed pivot points; prevents steering kick and camber change under load; eliminates clunks from vertical loads.
- Replacing bushings: replaces compliant, deteriorated rubber with fresh material (or poly for firmer control); reduces unwanted motion and noise; preserves intended alignment under load.
- Replacing shocks/struts: restores damping coefficient (c), controlling oscillation frequency and amplitude. Proper damping reduces bounce, improves tire contact with road during transient events (brake/steer), and prevents rapid tire wear from uncontrolled motion.
- Replacing springs: restores correct ride height and spring rate; fixes sagging which changes roll center and static camber, and corrects bottoming out.
- Replacing sway bar links/bushings: restores roll stiffness transfer between sides, reducing nose/shoulder roll and eliminating clunks from loose links.
- Replacing wheel bearings: removes play and noise, keeps wheel centered on hub, stops runout that can cause vibration and uneven wear.

8) Assembly/installation best-practice (theory applied)
- Use new fasteners if recommended. Torque to factory values in proper sequence so bushings compress/cure at the correct preload; incorrect torque alters geometry or speeds bushing wear.
- For bushings that locate geometry (control arm bolts that act as pivot), align to recommended position before final torquing if manual recommends — this avoids preloading bushings in an offset position.
- Replace shocks/struts in axle pairs (both fronts or both rears) to keep balance and symmetry of damping characteristics.

9) Post-repair checks and validation
- Torque recheck after short test drive.
- Four-wheel alignment (set toe, camber, caster) and check thrust angle. Theory: alignment ensures contact patch geometry matches design so tires produce intended lateral and longitudinal forces predictably.
- Road test with the same symptom checks: verify noise gone, steering straight, no excessive bounce, stable braking and cornering.
- Reinspect after 100–500 miles for fastener re-torque and bushing settling.

10) Common pitfalls and their theory
- Replacing only one side of a pair: creates asymmetric damping or geometry; car will still feel odd because suspension dynamics require matched rates.
- Not addressing worn mounts or subframe damage: new components will be stressed abnormally, leading to early failure and misalignment.
- Over-tightening bushings at non-neutral position: preloads rubber, which changes pivot points and destroys ride compliance.

Concise checklist to follow in order
1. Safety and tools
2. Road-test and note symptoms
3. Visual/static tests (bounce, play, tire wear)
4. Lift, remove wheels, inspect components
5. Replace steering links (tie rods)
6. Replace ball joints/control arms/bushings
7. Replace sway bar links/bushings
8. Replace shocks/struts + mounts, springs as needed
9. Replace bearings/hubs if needed
10. Re-torque, then four-wheel alignment, road-test, recheck

This explains what to check and why each repair corrects the observed faults.
rteeqp73

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