Short version at top: trailing arms hold the rear wheel/axle fore-and-aft and control toe/camber under acceleration/braking. Worn or bent trailing arms or bushings cause clunks, wandering, uneven rear tire wear and bad tracking. Replace with the car safely supported, axle supported, shock and sway links disconnected, old arm unbolted, new arm fitted with new bushings/bolts, torqued to OEM spec, then alignment checked. Below is a full beginner-friendly breakdown of every relevant component, the theory, what goes wrong, the tools and step‑by‑step procedure with practical tips and safety warnings.

What a “trailing arm” is — plain language and analogy
- Function: a trailing arm is a suspension link that attaches the rear wheel assembly (usually axle or hub) to the vehicle body and controls the wheel’s fore-aft position and some geometry (toe/camber) as the suspension moves.
- Analogy: picture the trailing arm as a hinged forearm on your body. The elbow (mount at the chassis) pivots and the hand (wheel/hub) is held out behind you. The rubber or polyurethane bushings are like the soft tissue in the elbow that cushions motion. If that tissue wears out, the “hand” flops around.
- Types: on different Toyotas it can be a single stamped or cast arm with a bushing at the body mount and a pivot at the axle or hub, or part of a multi-link arrangement. For vehicles with a solid rear axle, trailing arms usually bolt to the axle housing and body; for independent rear suspension the arm attaches at the knuckle/hub.

Major components you will encounter (what they are, how they work)
- Trailing arm (arm body): the metal link (steel stamp or cast) that connects axle/hub to chassis. Carries loads and transmits forces.
- Inner mounting bushing: rubber or polyurethane sleeve pressed into the arm where it bolts to the chassis. Absorbs vibration and allows limited rotation.
- Outer pivot/bushing or bolt: where the arm attaches to the axle or hub; may have a sleeve bushing and a through-bolt.
- Mounting bolts/nuts: fasteners that locate and clamp the arm to the chassis and axle. Some are simple reusable bolts, some are torque-to-yield and must be replaced.
- Bracketry: chassis brackets welded or bolted to the body that the arm mounts into.
- Shock absorber and coil spring (or spring seat): often the arm interacts with these parts — shocks control dampening; springs carry ride height.
- Sway bar links and lateral location links (if fitted): anti-roll and lateral control hardware that also attach near the arm.
- Brake lines, parking brake cable, ABS sensor wire routing: these are routed near/over the arm; they must be unhooked or supported when removing the arm.
- Fastener hardware: washers, spacers, sleeves—important for correct alignment and bushing preload.

Why you need the repair — theory and symptoms
- Purpose of repair: bushings wear out, bolts corrode/loosen, or the arm gets bent from impacts. Worn/broken bushings let the arm move when it shouldn’t. That movement changes toe/camber, causes clunking, reduces stability and accelerates tire wear.
- Symptoms:
- Rear clunk or bang on acceleration, braking or over bumps.
- Excessive rear wheel movement or the vehicle “wanders.”
- Uneven or rapid rear tire wear (feathering or inner shoulder wear).
- Vibration or steering pull.
- Visible rusted or cracked bushings, or a bent arm after hitting curb or pothole.
- What goes wrong mechanically:
- Bushings degrade: rubber cracks/rots; poly can compress and harden.
- Bolts seize/strip due to corrosion; sleeves get frozen.
- Arm bends from impact—geometry changes permanently.
- Brackets can fatigue or tear welds in severe cases.
- Brake/ABS lines can be stretched or damaged if the arm moves freely.

Tools and supplies you’ll need (basic to advanced)
- Safety: jack stands (rated), hydraulic jack, wheel chocks, safety glasses, gloves.
- Hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set, breaker bar, deep sockets, extensions, wrenches, pry bar, hammer.
- Torque wrench (capable of required torque range).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist, etc.), wire brush.
- Punch and hammer to free stuck bolts, heat source (propane torch) for seized bolts — use caution near rubber/fuel lines.
- Floor jack or transmission jack to support the axle.
- Socket or bolt extraction tools (left-handed extractors) if bolts are rounded.
- New trailing arm assembly (or new bushings if re‑using arm), new mounting bolts/nuts (replace torque-to-yield/bolts that show stretch), new washers/spacers, grease/anti-seize, thread locker if OEM calls for it.
- Hydraulic press or bushing removal tool if you need to press out/in bushings (shops/press recommended for bushings).
- Wire ties or magnet to keep brake lines/ABS wiring clear.
- Service manual for exact procedure, torque figures and alignment specs. (Always follow OEM specs.)

Safety first — non-negotiable
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack — always use jack stands on firm level ground.
- Chock front wheels before lifting rear.
- Support the axle with a jack before unbolting links so the suspension doesn’t suddenly droop or spring out.
- Be careful when using heat near rubber lines, wiring, or fuel.
- Wear eye protection when using penetrating oil, grinding, hammering or using a torch.
- If springs are involved and under load, use correct spring compressors or support the axle so the spring is not under load when removing hardware.

Step-by-step procedure (generalized for a Toyota with trailing-arm rear suspension)
Note: This is a generic, beginner-friendly sequence. Exact steps, bolt locations and torque specs vary by model year and subframe design; confirm with the Toyota factory service manual for your B 2B.

1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels, set parking brake.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts slightly with the vehicle on the ground.
- Raise the rear with a hydraulic jack at the recommended lift point. Place jack stands under the chassis rated for the vehicle weight. Lower vehicle onto stands.
- Remove the rear wheels.

2. Inspect and document
- Photograph bolt locations, routing of brake/ABS lines and cables. This helps reassembly.
- Examine the trailing arm, bushings, bolts for corrosion, cracks, and note any bent shape.

3. Support the axle
- Place a floor jack under the axle housing or differential with a block of wood to spread load. Raise gently enough to take weight off the trailing arm but not to compress springs (just enough to prevent sudden drop when bolts are removed).

4. Disconnect nearby components
- Remove or disconnect sway bar links if they interfere.
- Disconnect shock lower bolts if they prevent arm removal (some designs require shock removal).
- Remove any brackets holding brake lines/parking brake cables to the arm. Use wire ties to keep lines out of the way; do not let brake lines hang unsupported (they can be damaged).
- If ABS sensor wiring is tied to the arm, disconnect or unclip it.

5. Remove the trailing arm mounting bolts
- Apply penetrating oil to the bolts/nuts and let soak. Use breaker bar.
- Remove outer bolt(s) that attach the arm to the axle/hub first or inner bolts first depending on access — either is OK as long as the axle is supported.
- Keep track of any sleeves, spacers or washers—you must reinstall in the same order and orientation.
- If bolts are seized, heat from a torch can help but avoid heating rubber and brake components. Use careful hammering on the bolt head or penetrating oil overnight.
- In case of rounded heads, use bolt extractor sockets.

6. Remove the trailing arm
- Once bolts are out, pry the arm out of the chassis bracket. You may need a pry bar to remove a seized bushing or to move the axle slightly with the jack to free alignment.
- Inspect the chassis bracket and mating surfaces. Clean rust and apply wire brush.

7. If replacing only bushings
- Press the old bushings out in a vice or hydraulic press. Use appropriate adapters and protect the arm. Press new bushings in to manufacturer orientation. Lubricate per bushing manufacturer instructions (some bushings must be dry; some require poly lube).
- If you do not have a press, many shops can press bushings for a small fee; do not try to burn/bore out rubber bushing unless you know the technique.

8. Fit the new arm
- Transfer any sleeves/spacers and make sure the orientation matches the original photos.
- Install arm into chassis bracket and line up with axle bracket. Hand-tighten bolts to hold it.
- If bushings are new, some manufacturers advise installing bolts with weight on suspension (to preload bushings). Check the manual: OEM sometimes specifies to torque bolts with the vehicle at ride height or suspension loaded. If required, support body and lower axle to normal ride height, then torque. If manual not available, torque bolts with vehicle on ground and wheels on, then re-check after a short drive.

9. Torque to spec
- Tighten fasteners to Toyota OEM torque specs. Do not guess torque values—consult the factory manual. Replace bolts that look stretched or are specified one-time-use.
- Apply thread locker where specified and anti-seize on threads if recommended.

10. Reattach lines and components
- Reattach brake line brackets, ABS wire clips, sway bar links, shock bolts, and parking brake cables in original routing.
- Reinstall the wheels, lower the car off jack stands, and torque wheel lug nuts to spec.

11. Final checks and alignment
- Visually inspect everything for correct routing and clearance. Ensure no wires or lines are pinched.
- Road test gently, listening for noises. If any clunk or unusual behavior occurs, re-check fasteners.
- Get a professional four-wheel alignment as changing trailing arm geometry will affect toe and possibly camber. An alignment is essential after trailing arm work.

Common problems you will hit and how to handle them
- Seized bolts: penetrating oil + time, heat, careful hammer + breaker bar. Worst-case: cut bolt heads and extract; you may need to drill and helicoil a hole if threads are damaged.
- Frozen bushings/sleeves: use a press or take to shop. Do not use excessive force that deforms the arm.
- Bent arm: replacement of the whole arm is required. Hammering back into shape is unreliable.
- Incorrect bushing orientation or missing sleeves: leads to premature wear or bad geometry—reinstall exactly as removed.
- Torque-to-yield bolts: replace them. They’re one-time stretch bolts.
- Spring or shock under load: if the suspension droops violently, you could damage lines or hurt yourself. Always support the axle before removing bolts.

Maintenance and verification after replacement
- After a few hundred miles, re-check bolt torques and inspect for new wear.
- Monitor tire wear patterns and handling; if still wandering or uneven wear appears, recheck alignment.
- Replace both sides at once if both are worn. Mismatched components can create uneven behavior.

When to call a pro
- If mounts or brackets are cracked/welded and need structural repair.
- If bolts are protruding or threads in the chassis are damaged.
- If you can’t safely support springs/axles or lack a press for bushings.
- For a final four-wheel alignment—this usually requires shop equipment.

Closing practical tips (beginner-friendly)
- Take pictures before you start—helps on reassembly.
- Label bolts as to which hole they came from if they differ in length.
- Replace old rubber bushings with upgraded poly only if you understand the tradeoffs: poly gives crisper handling but transmits more noise and may require different torque/preload procedure.
- Clean and paint exposed metal where you disturbed rust to slow future corrosion.
- Keep a list of replaced parts and torque specs in case warranty or service is needed.

That’s the complete beginner’s walkthrough: how it works, why it fails, every component you’ll touch, safety, tools, step-by-step removal/installation, common problems and final checks. Follow the Toyota factory service manual for your exact B 2B model for bolt sizes, torque specs and any model-specific steps.
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