Purpose and theory — in plain terms
- Why: Wheel alignment ensures the wheels point in the directions the chassis and driver expect. Proper alignment = even tire wear, predictable steering, good fuel economy, safe braking and handling.
- Basic theory: Three primary angles govern wheel orientation: toe, camber and caster.
- Toe: whether the front of the wheels point toward or away from each other (toe-in or toe-out). Like pigeon-toed or duck-footed shoes — wrong toe makes tires scrub and wear quickly.
- Camber: tilt of the wheel top inward or outward. Too much negative camber wears the inside edge; too much positive camber wears the outside edge and reduces grip.
- Caster: tilt of the steering axis forward or backward (viewed from the side). Positive caster stabilizes straight-line tracking and provides steering self-center. Think of caster like the angle on a shopping cart wheel: a small backward tilt makes it track straight and return to center.
- Rear alignment (on multi-link/beam axles): rear toe and thrust angle determine whether the rear wheels follow the front and keep the car tracking straight.
- Result: If angles are off, the car may pull, wander, vibrate or wear tires prematurely.

Components — what each thing is and does (Toyota B-type front/rear general layout)
- Wheel and tire: contact patch and final wear indicator. Condition and pressure must be correct before alignment.
- Wheel rim: must be straight and free of damage — bent rims change effective alignment.
- Wheel bearings/hub assembly: holds wheel on spindle; excessive play changes steering/ride height and causes alignment change.
- Brake rotors/calipers: add unsprung mass; seized caliper or warped rotor can mimic alignment/road-holding problems.
- Steering wheel and column: transmits driver input.
- Steering rack (rack-and-pinion): converts steering wheel rotation into lateral movement of tie rods. Inner tie rods attach to rack.
- Inner tie rod: connects rack to outer tie rod; allows sliding and rotation.
- Outer tie rod end: connects tie rod to steering knuckle; final toe adjustment usually made here. Worn outer tie rods produce play and wandering.
- Steering knuckle / upright: holds wheel hub, attaches to control arm and tie rod; pivot point for steering.
- Ball joints (upper/lower on some designs, single on others): pivot points for suspension and steering knuckle. Worn joints change camber/caster under load.
- MacPherson strut assembly (typical front on small Toyotas):
- Strut (shock absorber + spring) controls ride height and damping.
- Strut top mount/cap and bearing — strut-top position can control camber/caster on some designs.
- Strut tower (vehicle body) — has mounting points and sometimes adjustment slots.
- Control arms (lower/upper): set wheel location fore/aft and in/out; bushings provide compliance. Worn bushings allow shift in alignment under load.
- Cam bolts or eccentric bushings: used for camber or toe adjustments on some models.
- Sway bar (stabilizer) and links: control roll; broken or loose links change handling and can affect static alignment under load.
- Rear beam axle or multi-link components:
- Lateral locating member or toe control arms, trailing arms — their bushings and geometry set rear toe/camber.
- Thrust angle: result of rear toe relative to centerline; if thrust angle is off, car may "dog-track".
- Alignment machine components:
- Lift or alignment rack: safely raises car and allows access.
- Turn plates (front) and slip plates (rear) or wheel plates: let wheels pivot freely during measurement.
- Head clamps / targets / wheel sensors: attach to the wheels, read angles (CCD, laser, ultrasonic).
- Computer and software: calculates angles and shows specs and adjustments.
- Steering wheel holder and bunts: used to center and lock the wheel when required.

Required tools and shop setup
- Wheel clamp sensors and alignment rack (preferred); handheld gauges (toe plates, camber gauge) can be used for basic checks.
- Torque wrench, breaker bar, sockets and spanners to loosen/tighten adjustments and fasteners.
- Jack and jack stands if no lift; always use stands.
- Pry bar and crowfoot for adjusting control arms or removing/installing shims.
- Tape measure, chalk, or permanent marker for ride-height checks.
- Service manual / alignment specification sheet for exact numbers (camber/caster/toe/thrust). DO NOT guess specs — always check factory specs for that exact Toyota B model/year.

Pre-check and preparation (do these before measuring)
1. Tires: Check tread condition and pressure. Rotate or replace badly worn tires first — worn tires give misleading alignment readings.
2. Wheels and rims: Inspect for bends or dents. Replace or repair if damaged.
3. Wheel bearings, hubs and brakes: Check for play, noise or seized calipers.
4. Suspension and steering components: Inspect tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, struts/shocks, sway bar links and rear bushings for wear or play. Any worn parts must be replaced before alignment.
5. Ride height: Measure and ensure it’s correct and symmetric (sagging springs change camber and caster).
6. Fuel and load: Try to have a normal fuel level and no heavy load in the trunk. Place driver weight or equivalent in the driver seat if the manual requires it.
7. Center the steering wheel (manually) and note if it’s off by more than a small amount.
8. Ensure vehicle is on level surface (the rack and turnplates are leveled).

Step-by-step alignment check (front-wheel walk-through)
1. Mount sensors/clamps to wheels per alignment machine instructions. Make sure clamps are secure and run the pre-alignment calibration/measurement routine.
2. Read initial angles: front camber, caster, toe and SAI/KPI if available; rear camber/toe/thrust angle.
3. Interpret readings vs factory specs. Note which angles are out and by how much.
4. Visualize cause: e.g., excessive negative camber on one side might indicate broken spring perch, bent strut, or worn upper control arm bushing.
5. Make needed repairs first. Only adjust after worn parts are fixed.

How to adjust each parameter (general methods used on Toyota B-style suspensions)
- Toe (most commonly adjusted)
- Where: at the tie rod (outer tie rod end).
- How: loosen the locking nut on the tie rod end, rotate the tie rod to lengthen or shorten it which changes toe. Shortening makes more toe-in or toe-out depending on thread direction (mark and count turns). Use the alignment machine to confirm exact degree.
- Effect: Toe in -> car tends to run straight but causes scrub; toe out -> quicker turn-in but instability on straight.
- Camber
- If adjustable via strut top or eccentric bolts: loosen mounting bolts and move strut or control arm inward/outward to change camber. Some Toyotas use cam bolts at control arm to allow slight camber change.
- If not adjustable: camber correction may require camber bolts, aftermarket adjustable control arms, or replacing bent parts or worn bushings with correct parts/shims.
- Effect: Negative camber increases corner grip but overdoes edge wear on straight driving.
- Caster
- Adjusted by moving strut top fore/aft (on strut-type) or using eccentric bushings or adjustable camber/caster plates. Some designs require replacing control arm locating bolts or using aftermarket adjustable arms.
- Effect: More positive caster increases straight-line stability and steering self-centering; too much increases steering effort and inside tire wear when turning.
- Rear alignment (beam axle or multi-link)
- Rear toe adjustments are made at toe control bolts or adjustable links. For beam axles, move axle laterally using shims or relocate trailing arm mounts per manufacturer procedure.
- Thrust angle is adjusted by altering rear toe until thrust aligns with vehicle centerline.
- After each adjustment: tighten locking nuts to specified torque. Re-measure. Repeat until within specification.

Final checks and road test
- Torque all fasteners to factory specs.
- Re-check toe after torquing; sometimes torque changes geometry slightly.
- Ensure steering wheel is centered; if not, use tie rod adjustment to correct without upsetting toe spec.
- Perform a slow, controlled road test checking for pull, wandering, steering return and unusual noises. Re-check alignment after short road test.

What can go wrong — symptoms, causes and fixes
- Symptom: rapid, uneven tire wear (feathering, inner-edge wear)
- Cause: incorrect toe or camber; or worn components letting alignment change under load.
- Fix: Replace worn parts, correct toe/camber to spec, ensure correct tire pressure.
- Symptom: car pulls to one side
- Cause: unequal camber, unequal tire pressures, brake drag, mismatched tire sizes, incorrect toe or improper thrust angle.
- Fix: Check brakes, tire pressures, measure alignment and correct thrust/steering alignment.
- Symptom: wandering, poor straight-line stability
- Cause: insufficient caster or wrong toe; worn tie rods, ball joints or bushings.
- Fix: Replace worn parts, set caster/toe correctly.
- Symptom: steering wheel off-center after alignment
- Cause: mismatched left/right adjustments or improper steering centering during adjustment.
- Fix: Center steering physically, then set toe; or use steering rack centering procedure if required.
- Symptom: vibration or shimmy
- Cause: bent rim, unbalanced tire, worn steering components or bad wheel bearings.
- Fix: Balance tires, check rims and bearings, replace worn parts.
- Problem: Adjustments don't bring angles into spec
- Cause: Bent control arm, knuckle, strut, or frame damage; worn or seized bushings; inability to move mounting points due to seized bolts.
- Fix: Replace bent components, repair frame damage, replace seized hardware.
- Problem: Rear thrust angle off after rear suspension service
- Cause: incorrect reassembly, wrong torque or missing shims.
- Fix: Recheck assembly, use proper shims and torque, adjust toe links.
- Human errors
- Not measuring on level surface, incorrect ride height, loose clamps, forgetting to torque bolts, neglecting to replace worn parts first — all produce bad results.

Safety and quality tips
- Always inspect and replace worn steering/suspension parts before alignment — adjustments on worn parts won’t hold.
- Use factory specs for caster, camber, toe, and torque. If you don’t have specs, get the model-year service manual or alignment printout for that Toyota B variant.
- When rotating tie rods, count or mark turns so left and right changes are symmetrical when centering steering.
- After alignment, re-check after 50–100 km of driving and retorque any accessible fasteners per service manual.
- If frame damage is suspected (after collision), don’t attempt alignment corrections — frame straightening or part replacement is required.

Analogy summary
- Think of alignment like setting the wheels on a wagon: toe is whether the wagon wheels point slightly inward or outward (affects scrubbing), camber is how much the wheel leans (affects how the wheel bears load), and caster is how the fork is tilted (affects tracking and how the handle returns to center). All bushings and joints are the wagon’s worn wooden pegs — if they’re loose, the wagon won’t track no matter how you adjust the wheels.

Quick checklist to perform a basic alignment check on a Toyota B-style car
1. Inspect tires, wheels, brakes, bearings, suspension and steering for wear/damage.
2. Check and set tire pressures and ride height.
3. Mount wheel sensors on a level alignment rack and zero/calibrate.
4. Measure and log current camber/caster/toe and rear thrust angle.
5. Replace any worn/bent parts discovered.
6. Adjust toe first (tie rods), then camber/caster as possible per design.
7. Torque fasteners and re-measure.
8. Center steering wheel, road test, re-check.

Finish
- Follow this procedure and use factory specs for your exact Toyota B 2B model/year. Replacing worn components before attempting alignment is essential — adjustments only work on a solid suspension foundation.
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Toyota FJ40 3B diesel FIRST DRIVE! 1-1/2 years after the 2F gas engine was pulled, we take the rebuilt 4cyl Toyota diesel with the h55 5 speed out of a BJ70 down the ...

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