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Toyota Hilux 2005-2013 factory workshop and repair manual download

Overview (quick): The radiator cooling fan(s) keep the engine from overheating by forcing air through the radiator when the vehicle isn’t moving fast enough. On a Toyota Hilux you’ll commonly see either electric fans (most modern engines) or an engine‑driven viscous (clutch) fan on older models. This guide explains every common component, how the system works, what fails, how to diagnose, and how to replace or repair parts — written for a beginner mechanic. Follow safety notes.

Safety first (read this):
- Work with a cool engine. Hot coolant and moving fans are dangerous.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing electrical work or removing the fan assembly.
- Never put your hands behind or between a fan when the engine can start or the key is on.
- Use jack stands if you raise the vehicle. Wear eye protection and gloves.
- If you must drain coolant, capture it and dispose of it properly.

Components — what each part is and what it does
- Radiator: Large heat exchanger. Hot coolant flows in; air pulled through cores removes heat.
- Fan blades (fan assembly): Plastic or metal blades that move air through the radiator. Mounted in a shroud.
- Fan shroud: Plastic housing that directs airflow through the radiator instead of around it. Improves efficiency.
- Electric fan motor: 12V DC motor that spins the fan blades. Can be single-speed or multi‑speed/variable (PWM).
- Fan relay(s): Electromechanical switches that allow the low-current controller (ECU or thermal switch) to power the high-current fan motor.
- Fuse(s): Protect the fan circuit from short circuits/overcurrent.
- Coolant temperature sensor (ECT – engine coolant temp sensor): Sends temperature data to the ECU; used to determine when to run the fan.
- Fan thermal switch (if fitted): A mechanical/electrical switch mounted in radiator or coolant housing that directly closes a circuit to run the fan at a set temperature. Some cars use this instead of, or in addition to, ECU control.
- AC pressure switch / AC request input: When the A/C is switched on, the system signals the fan to run because the condenser needs airflow.
- Fan control module/ECU: On modern vehicles the engine control unit or a dedicated fan control module reads sensors and switches fans on/off or modulates speed via PWM.
- Wiring harness and connectors: Wires, plugs and grounds that carry power, control signals and sensor data.
- Fan clutch (viscous/drive fan — older models): A mechanical device between the water pump pulley and fan blades that engages/disengages the engine‑driven fan based on temperature.
- Water pump, belts, pulleys: For mechanical fans, the fan is driven by the engine accessories.

How the system works (simple analogy + flow)
Analogy: Think of the cooling system as a house heating/cooling box. The engine is a stove producing heat; coolant is water circulating through the stove and a radiator equivalent is like a window that dumps heat to the outside. The fan is the electric fan in the window that blows outside air across the window when the outside air can’t cool enough by itself (e.g., car stopped).

Normal operation:
- Engine warms up; the thermostat opens and coolant circulates through the radiator.
- While driving, natural airflow through the radiator is usually enough.
- When idling or at low speed, the ECU/thermal switch monitors coolant temperature (or AC demand) and turns on the fan(s) to pull air through the radiator.
- The ECU may run fans at one or more speeds (via relays or PWM) depending on temp or AC load. On older cars a thermal switch or fan clutch does this mechanically.

What can go wrong (symptoms and causes)
Symptoms: Engine overheats; fan never runs; fan runs all the time; fan runs only when AC is on; blown fuse; loud vibration or squeal.

Common causes:
- Blown fuse or bad relay: Fan gets no power.
- Failed fan motor: Motor brushes burnt, bearings seized, or motor shorted.
- Bad wiring/ poor ground / corroded connector: Intermittent or no power.
- Faulty coolant temperature sensor or fan thermal switch: ECU never sees high temp or sees false high temp.
- Faulty control module or ECU logic: Rare but possible.
- Mechanical fan/clutch failure: Clutch stuck (engaged = runs constantly) or seized (won’t spin) or worn causing overheating.
- Shroud damage, broken blades, etc.: Poor airflow reduces cooling.
- Obstruction: Debris between fan and radiator, or seized bearing causing noise.
- Radiator blockage, low coolant, air in system or bad thermostat: Not a fan fault but will cause overheating; fans won’t help if coolant isn’t circulating.

Tools & supplies you’ll typically need
- Basic socket set and screwdrivers, pliers.
- Multimeter (voltage/continuity/ohms).
- 12V test lead or jumper wires (for bench testing fan motor).
- Torx or specialty bits if needed.
- Drain pan for coolant, replacement coolant, rags.
- Replacement parts: fan motor or fan assembly, relay, fuse, temp sensor, fan clutch as needed.
- Shop manual or factory wiring diagram for wiring colors/locations (recommended).

Diagnostic steps — quick checklist (beginner-friendly)
1. Visual inspection: Check fan blades/shroud, connectors, wiring, signs of burnt connectors, debris, coolant leaks.
2. Fuse/relay: Locate the fan fuse(s) and relay(s) in the under-hood fuse box. Inspect fuse(s), swap relay with a similar known-good relay to test.
3. Turn A/C on: With engine stopped and key to accessory (or start engine briefly with coolant cold and AC on), the fan should run for A/C demand on many models. If fan runs, power side is OK and issue is temp sensing/control.
4. Warm engine test: Start engine, allow to reach normal temp. Observe when/if fan(s) turn on. Note temperature at which it starts (if you have a gauge). Typical fan-on temperature is roughly 90–105°C depending on model.
5. Probe connector voltage: With the connector plugged in, warm engine until fan should run. Use multimeter to check if the fan receives battery voltage on the power feed while the control ground or power is commanded. If 12V present at fan connector but fan doesn’t run — motor bad.
6. Direct bench test: Disconnect the fan connector and apply 12V directly to the fan motor (connect +12 to power lead and chassis ground to motor body). If the motor runs, the problem is wiring/relay/control. If it doesn’t, replace the motor/assembly.
7. Sensor test: Test ECT sensor or thermal switch resistance versus temperature chart in service manual. Or monitor sensor voltage signal to ECU. Faulty sensor will prevent fan command.
8. Check ground: Poor ground will prevent motor operation. Clean and tighten ground straps.
9. Mechanical fan: For viscous clutch check free play and spin by hand (engine off). If clutch doesn’t slip when hot (or is loose when cold), replace. Replace belts if frayed.

Removal & replacement — electric fan motor / assembly (general steps)
Note: Procedures vary by year/model. This is a general approach:
1. Prepare: Park on level ground, set parking brake, let engine cool, disconnect negative battery.
2. Drain/shift coolant (if required): Some shrouds require partial radiator drain to lower fluid level below top tank. Use drain pan.
3. Remove any obstructing components: Intake resonator, airbox, or top trim that blocks access to shroud bolts.
4. Unplug electrical connector(s): Squeeze tabs and carefully remove.
5. Remove bolts holding shroud and fan assembly to radiator/support. Support the shroud while removing bolts — it can be awkward and heavy.
6. Lift out shroud + fan as an assembly. If necessary unbolt fan motor from shroud to replace only motor (easier on the bench).
7. If replacing motor only: Remove retaining bolts/screws and transfer mounting items (grommets, spacers) to new motor. Inspect and replace any cracked grommets.
8. Install new motor or assembly: Fit into shroud and bolt in place. Refit assembly to radiator, reconnect electrical connectors.
9. Refill coolant if drained, bleed air from cooling system per Toyota procedure.
10. Reconnect battery and test fan operation (A/C on test and hot engine test).

Removal & replacement — viscous (mechanical) fan clutch (older Hilux)
1. Let engine cool. Remove negative battery.
2. Remove fan shroud if needed to access fan nut (sometimes includes removal of airbox).
3. Loosen and remove the fan clutch nut from the water pump pulley stud. On many engines the nut is reverse-threaded — check service manual. Use a fan clutch wrench or special tool; sometimes you hold the pulley behind the water pump with a screwdriver in the fins.
4. Remove fan and clutch assembly. Replace clutch (or whole fan) assembly; torque nut to spec.
5. Reinstall shroud, top up coolant if disturbed. Start engine and verify operation (fan should slip when cold and engage when hot).

Testing after repair
- Reconnect battery, start engine, and verify fans come on when expected: with AC on and/or at operating temp.
- Confirm no warning lights, no coolant leaks, and proper coolant level.
- Road test: monitor temperature gauge under normal driving and in stop‑and‑go; confirm stable temperatures.
- Check for abnormal noise or vibration.

Quick trouble/parts list (what to replace based on diagnosis)
- Blown fuse: replace fuse, but find cause (short).
- Bad relay: cheap and easy swap test.
- Faulty fan motor: replace fan motor or whole fan assembly.
- Faulty temp sensor: replace sensor; then clear any diagnostic codes.
- Wiring repair or ground cleaning: fix connectors, replace corroded harness.
- Fan clutch (mechanical): replace clutch or full fan assembly if worn/damaged.
- Shroud/blade damage: replace shroud or fan blades to restore airflow.

Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Testing fan operation with engine running and key on while reaching into shroud — can lose fingers.
- Replacing only a relay or fuse without checking wiring, causing repeated failure.
- Not bleeding the cooling system after coolant drain — leads to overheating/air pockets.
- Over-torqueing plastic mounting hardware and cracking the shroud.
- Assuming fan is the cause of overheating when thermostat, water pump, or coolant level are the real issue.

Closing summary (what to expect)
- Most Hilux fan problems boil down to a bad relay, fuse, connector, or the fan motor itself. Start by checking fuses and relays, then test for voltage at the fan connector. If 12V is present at the fan and the fan does not run when energized, replace the fan motor/assembly.
- If the fan runs constantly, suspect a stuck relay, shorted control wire, bad temp sensor or ECU/fan module, or a stuck fan clutch on older models.
- Replacement fan assemblies are common aftermarket items and usually bolt directly in; relays/fuses are inexpensive. For electrical issues, use a multimeter and trace power and ground logically.

That covers how the cooling fans and their components work, why repairs are needed, what can go wrong, and how to diagnose and replace the fan or clutch on a Hilux. Follow the safety guidance and consult a factory service manual or wiring diagram for your exact Hilux year/engine for connector colors, torque specs and any model-specific steps.
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