Tools required
- Metric socket set (8–22 mm), deep and shallow sockets
- Ratchet and 1/2" breaker bar
- Torque wrench (capable of low and medium torque, 5–150 Nm)
- Long thin pry bar or large screwdrivers (for alignment; use carefully)
- Belt tensioner tool or 12–19 mm wrench/ratchet to rotate tensioner (size depends on model)
- Fan clutch holding tool or strap wrench (if removing viscous/mechanical fan)
- Screwdrivers, pliers
- Flashlight/inspection light
- Gloves, safety glasses
- Jack and stands or ramps (if you need under-vehicle access)
- Belt tension gauge (optional, recommended for V-belt tensioning)
- Wire brush and penetrating oil (for stuck bolts)
- Clean rags, mild degreaser

Parts commonly required
- New drive belt(s) — correct OEM replacement (V-belt or multi-rib/serpentine depending on model/year). Get exact part number for 1HZ / 1PZ / 1HD-T vehicle fitment.
- Optional but strongly recommended: idler pulley(s), tensioner assembly (if hydraulic/auto type), alternator/power-steering pivot and adjuster bolts if badly corroded
- Thread locker (low strength) if specified by manual for specific bolts

Safety precautions
- Work with the engine cold. Hot pulleys, belts, and coolant are dangerous.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake. Chock wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when working near alternator or electrical components and when removing belts from the alternator pulley (prevents accidental starting).
- If you must remove the fan, support the fan before loosening the fan nut; viscous fans can free-spin when the nut is removed and are heavy.
- Use jack stands if raising the vehicle; never rely on the jack alone.
- Keep loose clothing/jewelry away from pulleys.
- If you use penetrating oil, wipe excess before reassembly (oil on a belt causes failure).

Preliminary steps
1. Identify belt layout and tensioner type. Take clear photos from multiple angles and/or draw the belt routing. Don’t rely on memory.
2. Obtain OEM belt routing sticker or service manual diagram if available.
3. Gather replacement belt(s) and any pulleys/tensioner you plan to replace.

Step-by-step replacement (general for 1HZ / 1PZ / 1HD-T)
Note: These engines have variations — some use a manual adjuster (alternator used as adjuster), others have a spring-loaded automatic tensioner. Follow the correct tensioner procedure for the engine in your vehicle.

A. Access
1. Remove any splash shields or engine covers blocking access to the belts. On some models you may need to remove the fan shroud or loosen the fan — only if necessary for space.
2. If there is a viscous/mechanical fan in the way and removal is required, use a fan holding tool to prevent the crank pulley from turning. Remove the fan nut using the appropriate socket and breaker bar. Support the fan assembly and remove. (Keep fan bolt torque/position notes.)

B. Relieve belt tension and remove old belt
1. Locate the tensioner.
- If automatic (spring-type): find the tensioner pulley with a square or hex head for rotating. Place appropriate socket/adapter on the tensioner, use a ratchet or tensioner tool to rotate the tensioner in the direction needed to release tension (usually clockwise). While holding it, slip the belt off a pulley (preferably the easiest accessible pulley like the AC or alternator), then slowly release the tensioner.
- If manual (adjuster/alternator adjust): loosen the locknut on the adjuster bolt and the pivot bolt (or alternator pivot) enough to allow movement. Turn the adjuster bolt to move the alternator/pump inward to relieve belt tension, then remove the belt.
2. Note/picture belt path again before removing completely. Remove old belt.

C. Inspect pulleys and components
1. Spin each pulley by hand. Check for roughness, play, grinding, or wobble. Replace any pulley with noise or play.
2. Inspect pulley grooves for glazing, rust, or contamination. Clean if minor, replace if heavily damaged.
3. Check for oil/coolant leaks that could contaminate belts — fix leaks before installing new belt.

D. Install new belt
1. Compare old and new belt lengths and rib profile. Confirm correct belt.
2. Route new belt following the routing diagram/photo. Ensure ribs seat fully into pulley grooves and belt has no twists.
3. Apply tension:
- Automatic tensioner: rotate tensioner to allow belt installation over the last pulley, then release slowly so tensioner sets belt tension. Verify belt is correctly seated on all pulleys.
- Manual tensioner/adjuster: tighten adjuster to apply proper tension. Use a belt tension gauge for V-belts, or follow specification in service manual for deflection method. Typical approach for V-belts: with moderate finger pressure at midpoint of longest span, measure deflection (spec varies by belt width/length — consult manual). For multi-rib, many engines rely on automatic tensioners; if manual, tighten to manufacturer spec or use tension gauge.
4. Tighten pivot and lock nuts on alternator/adjuster while holding the adjuster position. Torque to OEM spec where available. If you do not have spec, snug then run engine and re-check tension—better to consult manual.

How to use specific tools
- Breaker bar: Use for frozen bolts (pivot bolts, fan nut). Apply steady force, not sudden shock. Penetrating oil first if rusty.
- Torque wrench: Use to tighten pivot bolts and fan nut to OEM torque. If you don’t have exact spec, don’t over-torque—tighten until secure and re-check after short test run.
- Tensioner tool or long-handled ratchet: Insert into tensioner square drive or onto hex, rotate slowly to relieve tension. Keep tool engaged while slipping belt off or on.
- Fan holding tool: Engages fan clutch fins to prevent crank pulley rotation when removing fan nut. If you lack it, use an assistant to hold front brake or use a strap wrench on the pulley — be careful.
- Belt tension gauge: Place across belt span, apply the specified force and read deflection; adjust until within spec. If no gauge, use manual deflection guideline from service manual.

Final assembly and checks
1. Reinstall fan and shroud if removed. Torque fan nut per manual.
2. Reconnect battery negative terminal.
3. Start engine and observe belt operation at idle for at least 1–2 minutes. Watch alignment, check for wobble, squeal, and proper seating.
4. Turn engine off and recheck belt tension and pivot bolts after initial run-in. Re-torque as required.
5. After 50–100 km (30–60 miles) recheck belt tension and hardware.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Wrong belt size: Always confirm part number; an incorrectly sized belt will slip or overload bearings.
- Not replacing worn idler/tensioner: A good new belt on bad pulleys will fail quickly. Replace pulleys/tensioner if any roughness or play.
- Incorrect tension: Too loose causes slipping and squeal; too tight shortens bearing life (alternator, water pump, AC compressor). Use a belt tension gauge or OEM deflection specs.
- Incorrect routing: Misrouted belt can cause alternator/AC to run backwards or damage components. Use photo/diagram.
- Forgetting to disconnect battery: Risk of electrical short and accidental starts.
- Over-torquing or under-torquing pivot/fan bolts: Use correct torque values from service manual. If unavailable, tighten snugly and re-check after run-in rather than grossly overtightening.
- Contamination: Oil/coolant on belt causes slipping and rapid deterioration. Fix leaks and clean pulleys before installing new belt.
- Removing fan without proper tool/support: Fan assembly is heavy; dropping it can cause injury or damage.

Notes and final recommendations
- Always get the exact belt(s) for your vehicle (OEM or quality aftermarket). For 1HZ/1PZ/1HD-T there are variations depending on year and accessories — do not guess.
- If uncertain about torque values or tension specs, consult a Toyota service manual for your chassis/year or an on-line repair database.
- Replace the tensioner and idler pulleys at the first sign of wear — they’re inexpensive insurance compared to belt failure and accessory damage.

This covers the full workflow: tools, safety, step-by-step removal/installation, how to use the tools, parts to replace, and common pitfalls.
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