Summary (quick): The cooling fan(s) on a Toyota Hilux pull air through the radiator when the truck is not being driven fast enough for natural airflow. They stop the engine from overheating at idle/slow speed and help the air‑conditioning. Typical failures: fan motor burns out, relay/fuse/wiring fails, temperature sensor/ECU doesn’t command the fan, or a viscous clutch (older models) seizes. Below is a beginner‑level, thorough explanation of every component, why the repair is needed, how the system works, what can go wrong, and how to diagnose and replace parts safely.

1) Why this repair matters (theory, in plain terms)
- Engine heat: burning fuel produces heat. Coolant absorbs that heat and carries it to the radiator. The radiator dumps the heat to the air.
- Fan’s job: at low speed or idle there isn’t enough natural airflow through the radiator, so the fan forces air through it to remove heat. With A/C on the fan helps condense refrigerant.
- Analogy: radiator = radiator on a house heater; coolant = water circulating through pipes; water pump = heart; thermostat = a thermostat valve; fan = an electric room fan that turns on when the room gets too warm.
- If fans don’t work: engine temperature rises, thermostat and head gasket can fail, coolant can boil, and the engine can be damaged. So functional fans are essential.

2) Main components (and what each does)
Note: Hiluxes come in generations and markets. Some have electric radiator fans (most modern ones), others older ones use a mechanical viscous fan clutch. I list both sets of components.

Electric fan system components
- Fan blade(s) and fan assembly: plastic or composite blades located in a shroud that mounts to the radiator. The shroud directs airflow so the fan moves air through the radiator efficiently.
- Electric fan motor: spins the fan blades. Typically sealed, brush‑type or brushless depending on age.
- Fan relay(s): electrically‑operated switch(s) that allow the high current needed by the motor to be switched by a low‑current command from the ECU or temperature switch.
- Fuse(s): protect the circuit against short circuits or motor overcurrent.
- Coolant temperature sensor (engine coolant temperature sensor — ECT): measures coolant temp and sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU uses this to decide when to turn the fan on.
- Fan control module or ECU logic: in some models the ECU drives the relay(s) directly; in others a separate fan control module reads the temp sensor and controls the relay(s).
- A/C pressure/switch: when A/C is turned on, a pressure switch or A/C request signal forces the fan on (to help the condenser).
- Wiring harness and connectors: deliver power, ground, and control signals between components.
- Ground straps/mounts: solid engine/chassis ground is required for motor return.

Mechanical viscous (clutch) fan components (older Hilux)
- Fan blade bolted to viscous fan clutch.
- Viscous fan clutch: a fluid coupling that engages/disengages the fan depending on temperature (thermostatic clutch) or speed.
- Drive: clutch mounts to water pump flange and is driven by the engine via the accessory belt.
- Fan shroud: directs airflow.

3) How the system works (step‑by‑step)
Electric fans:
- Sensor reads coolant temp. If temp > threshold (varies by model, often 90–105°C), the ECU/fan control energizes the fan relay.
- Relay closes, sending battery voltage to the fan motor. Motor runs and pulls air through the radiator, cooling the coolant.
- When coolant drops below a lower threshold, the ECU/heater logic turns the relay off.
- If A/C is on, an A/C signal can force fan on regardless of coolant temp.

Viscous clutch fan:
- Fan constantly spins with the engine; the viscous clutch either engages strongly (full airflow) when hot, or slips when cool to save power.
- Thermostatic element in clutch senses air temp and varies coupling.

4) Common failure modes and what goes wrong
- Dead fan motor: brushes worn, bearings seized, or burned windings. Fan won’t spin. Often silent electrical fault or motor hum without rotation.
- Blown fuse: indicates overcurrent or short; fan won’t get power.
- Faulty relay: relay clicks but does not pass current; or no click at all.
- Bad coolant temp sensor or wiring: ECU never sees high temp so never commands fan.
- Damaged wiring/connectors/corrosion: intermittent or no power/ground to fan.
- Fan shroud or blade damage: reduced airflow, vibration, or noise.
- Viscous clutch stuck locked (fan always engaged) or stuck slipped (fan never provides airflow).
- AC pressure switch or control issue: A/C turns on but fan doesn’t, A/C performance poor.
- ECU/fan control module failure: rare but possible.
- Mechanical interference: debris jammed in shroud, radiator crushed preventing air flow.
- Overheating for unrelated reasons (thermostat stuck closed, water pump failure, clogged radiator) — fans alone will not solve those.

5) Diagnostic flow — how to check the system (beginner level)
Safety first: work on a cool engine. Disconnect negative battery when doing electrical work. Keep hands and tools away when fan could start. Wear eye protection and gloves.

Basic checks (no tools):
- Turn key to ON (engine off) and operate A/C. Does the fan come on? If yes, fan motor and basic power path likely OK.
- Start engine and let it idle to warm. Does the fan come on when engine reaches normal operating temp? (May take several minutes.)

Using simple tools (multimeter, test light, jumper):
- Check fuse(s): locate fuse box, find fan fuse(s), inspect. Replace if blown.
- Check relay: listen for click when fan should run (hot engine or A/C on). Swap relay with same type from another circuit (e.g., horn or other) if available.
- Check voltage at fan connector: with engine at temp and fan commanded on, backprobe connector with multimeter — one terminal should be battery voltage. If voltage present and fan not running, motor likely bad.
- Direct power test ("bench test"): disconnect fan connector and, with extreme caution, briefly apply battery positive to motor positive and battery negative to motor negative (use a fused jumper). If fan spins strongly, motor is OK; problem is wiring/relay/control. If it does not spin, replace motor/assembly.
- Motor current draw test: measure current draw with clamp meter; compare to spec if available. Excessive draw indicates binding; zero draw indicates open circuit.
- Test coolant temp sensor: check resistance/voltage outputs as per manual, or observe temp reading on dash. If sensor is dead, ECU may not command fan.
- Inspect harness/connectors: look for melted insulation, corrosion, loose pins.

6) Replacing an electric fan assembly (general steps — adjust to your year/model)
Tools: metric sockets and ratchet, screwdrivers, pliers, trim tools, multimeter, replacement fan assembly or motor, dielectric grease, gloves.

Safety: engine cold, battery negative disconnected, support radiator if needed.

Steps:
1. Remove battery negative cable and, if needed, battery to gain access.
2. Remove any intake ducting, radiator upper cover, or trim blocking the shroud.
3. Unplug the fan electrical connector(s). Release any clips holding wiring.
4. Remove bolts securing the fan shroud/assembly to the radiator (usually top and bottom bolts). Some Hiluxes separate the fan from the shroud—note how assembly comes out.
5. Carefully lift the fan & shroud out, taking care not to bend radiator fins. If shroud is split into upper and lower halves, remove as appropriate.
6. If replacing just the motor: remove screws/bolts holding motor to the shroud and remove motor from blade assembly. Transfer blade to new motor if recommended (some motors are sold as part of complete assembly).
7. Install new motor/assembly. Make sure fan spins freely by hand and clears shroud by a few millimeters.
8. Reinstall shroud/assembly, tighten bolts snugly (do not overtighten plastic). Reconnect wiring with dielectric grease on terminals to prevent corrosion.
9. Reinstall removed ducts, battery, and start engine. Test fan operation at idle and with A/C on. Check for abnormal noise or vibration.

Replace entire fan if motor is non-serviceable or blades/shroud damaged.

7) Replacing a viscous (mechanical) fan clutch
Tools: long socket set, fan clutch removal tool or proper wrench, possibly remove accessory belt or use holding tool.

Simplified steps:
1. Cool engine, disconnect battery negative.
2. Remove fan shroud or loosen it to gain access.
3. Loosen and remove bolts holding the fan clutch or fan blade to the water pump flange (different models have different attachment methods).
4. Remove the assembly and replace with new clutch/blade, ensuring correct orientation and torque of bolts (follow torque specs in service manual if possible).
5. Reinstall shroud and belts, reconnect battery, and run engine to verify proper operation and no wobble.

8) Tests after repair and final checks
- With engine warm, verify fan engages automatically at operating temp.
- Verify fan runs when A/C is on.
- Check for leaks or rubbing, check radiator for bent fins or debris.
- Road test if needed; watch the temperature gauge for stability.
- Check connector security and apply dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

9) Tools and parts checklist
Basic tools:
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, extensions
- Screwdrivers, pliers, trim tools
- Multimeter and test light
- Jumper wire with in‑line fuse (for bench testing)
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Fan clutch tool (if viscous type)
Parts to have:
- Replacement fan motor or full fan assembly
- Replacement relay and fuse (carry spares)
- Replacement coolant temp sensor if suspect
- New fan shroud or fan blades if damaged
- Dielectric grease, zip ties, electrical repair connectors if wiring damaged

10) Common beginner mistakes and how to avoid them
- Working on hot engine: always let it cool. Hot coolant and moving fans are dangerous.
- Forgetting to disconnect battery for electrical work: risk of shorting and injury.
- Over‑tightening plastic fasteners: strip threads or crack shroud.
- Not supporting the radiator/shroud when removing: can damage radiator mounts or bend fins.
- Ignoring root causes: replacing fan without checking thermostat, water pump, or blocked radiator will not fix overheating.
- Not testing the circuit: swapping in a new fan without verifying power/ground can mask electrical faults.

11) Troubleshooting quick reference
- Fan never runs:
- Check fuse → relay → power at connector → direct power to motor. If motor spins with direct power, problem is control wiring/relay/sensor.
- Fan runs constantly:
- Check coolant level, thermostat, coolant temp sensor (stuck reading high), or fan relay stuck closed.
- Fan runs weakly/noisy:
- Motor bearings failing, blades damaged, or shroud interference; replace motor/blade/shroud.
- Fan runs only with A/C but not when hot:
- Sensor/ECU/fan control or wiring to temp sensor likely at fault.
- Fan works intermitently:
- Look for loose connectors, corroded ground, or failing relay.

12) When to replace parts vs. repair
- Replace entire fan assembly if shroud/blades damaged or motor not serviceable.
- Replace motor only if it’s serviceable and bearings/brushes are bad.
- Replace relay/fuse immediately if faulty; cheap parts and easy to swap.
- Replace temp sensor if readings are off and other components are confirmed good.
- Consider a wiring repair if connectors are corroded or insulated wires are damaged.

13) Final safety notes
- Never place your hands near a running fan. Disconnect battery when possible.
- Use a fused jumper when bench testing motors to avoid damaging circuits.
- Dispose of old parts and fluids per local rules.
- If you feel unsure at any point, a professional shop can complete the repair and verify cooling system integrity.

That covers the components, theory, failure modes, diagnostics, and how to replace both electric and mechanical fans on a Hilux in beginner‑friendly terms. Follow the steps carefully and prioritize safety.
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Quick roadmap — what this covers:
- What suspension geometry (toe, camber, caster, thrust) is and why it matters.
- Every relevant component on a Toyota Hilux (front and rear), with plain-English descriptions.
- How the system works — how adjustments change wheel attitude.
- Step‑by‑step how to check and adjust geometry (foot‑level DIY methods plus what a shop uses).
- Pre‑checks, safety, tools.
- What commonly goes wrong and how to fix it.
No questions asked.

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1) What is “suspension geometry” and why fix it?
- Suspension geometry = the angles and positions of the wheels relative to the vehicle and to each other. Primary angles:
- Toe: wheels pointing inward/outward when viewed from above. Think “feet pointing inwards/outwards” — affects straight-line tracking and tire scrub.
- Camber: wheel tilt in/out at the top when viewed from the front. Like tilting a glass; affects tire contact patch in cornering.
- Caster: steering axis tilt when viewed from the side. Imagine the front fork of a shopping cart tilted back — it self‑centers the wheel and affects stability/steering effort.
- Thrust line / rear axle alignment: where the rear axle is pointing relative to the vehicle centerline — affects whether the car tracks straight or “dog-legs.”
Why it’s important:
- Incorrect geometry causes uneven/rapid tire wear, loose or vague steering, pulling to one side, wandering at speed, unsafe braking, and increased stress on suspension parts.
- Alignment is an outcome — you must have healthy parts and correct ride height first. Alignment won’t stay right if parts are worn.

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2) Main components on a Toyota Hilux (plain descriptions)
Front suspension (common Hilux layout = double wishbone or MacPherson strut depending on year; I’ll describe parts you’ll encounter):
- Wheel hub / bearing assembly: the rotating part where the wheel bolts; allows wheel to spin on the spindle/knuckle.
- Steering knuckle / upright: connects hub to suspension and steering components.
- Strut / shock absorber + coil spring (if MacPherson): controls springing and damping; strut top mounts at the body.
- Upper and lower control arms (wishbones) or lower arm + strut: connect knuckle to chassis; bushings allow movement.
- Ball joints: pivot between control arms and knuckle; wear manifests as play.
- Tie-rod inner and outer ends: link steering rack to knuckle; turning them changes toe. Outer tie-rod end has a steering linkage ball joint.
- Tie-rod sleeve or adjuster (on rack & pinion systems): the threaded portion used to set toe.
- Sway bar (anti-roll bar) and end links: control body roll; worn links can affect alignment readings.
- Strut top mount camber/caster adjusters (if fitted): eccentric bolts or offset holes that let you shift the strut top slightly to adjust camber and/or caster.
- Control-arm bushings / eccentric bolts: may be used for caster adjustment on some models.
Rear suspension (Hilux commonly has a solid axle on leaf springs):
- Leaf springs: locate the rear axle fore-aft and control roll; mounting points are shackles and spring eyes.
- Shackles and spring eye bushings: wear can allow axle movement.
- U-bolts and spring plates: clamp axle to spring; tighten to spec.
- Spring seat / perch and shims: shims can shift the axle fore/aft or side-to-side; used to center axle or change pinion angle.
- Panhard/track rod (if fitted): keeps axle centered; adjustable on some models.
- Rear shock absorbers: dampen motion; worn shocks change dynamic geometry under load.

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3) How the adjustments work — the theory (simple)
- Toe: Changing tie-rod length rotates the wheel around the steering pivot so the front of the wheel moves in or out. Small changes make big handling differences.
- Camber: Moving the top or bottom of the knuckle in/out changes the tilt. Less camber (closer to vertical) increases the tire footprint in a straight line; more negative camber helps cornering but wears the inner edge if excessive.
- Caster: Tilting the steering axis forward/back changes the self-centering effect. Increasing positive caster (tilting axis rearwards at the top) improves straight-line stability and steering feel; too much can increase steering effort.
- Thrust line: If the rear axle is crooked relative to the car centerline, the front must be set to compensate or the car will “dog‑leg” (steer slightly off-center at speed).
Analogy recap:
- Toe = toes pointing in/out. Camber = leaning a glass inwards/outwards. Caster = shopping cart fork tilt making the cart track straight.

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4) Tools and gear you’ll need
- Jack and rated jack stands (vehicle on flat level surface).
- Wheel chocks.
- Torque wrench.
- Standard hand tools (sockets, wrenches, breaker bar).
- Pry bar and hammer (for stubborn joints).
- Long tape measure or alignment measuring kit.
- Camber gauge or a smartphone inclinometer app + straightedge.
- String/alignment board or four‑wheel alignment turn plates (for DIY string method).
- Permanent marker / paint pen to mark tie‑rod locking nuts and threads.
- Penetrating oil, new cotter pins, replacement parts as needed.
- Basic shop manual for your Hilux model (for exact specs and torque values).
Note: Professional alignment machines give precise numbers for caster and camber. DIY methods work for toe and rough camber but caster is hard without proper equipment.

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5) Safety and prep checklist
- Park vehicle on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake, block diagonally.
- Inflate tires to recommended pressures and make sure they are similar left/right.
- Make sure fuel tank load and cargo approximate normal use — ride height matters.
- Check for and fix play/wear in steering tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, control arm bushings, shocks; replace anything worn before aligning.
- Measure and record ride height — if it’s off (springs sagging or vehicle lifted/with heavy bumper), alignment specs change. Correct or note it.

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6) Inspect before adjusting — if you skip this it’s wasted work
- Check wheel bearings: grab wheel at 12 and 6, rock; any play = bearing or hub issue.
- Lift each front wheel, wiggle at 9 and 3; detect tie rod play.
- Check outer and inner tie rod ends for torn boots or play.
- Check ball joints for play and torn boots.
- Check control arm bushings for split rubber or excessive movement.
- Inspect shocks/struts for leakage.
- Check rear leaf spring shackles and U‑bolts; look for shifted axle or missing shims.
- Replace anything worn — alignment will not hold on worn components.

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7) Measurement basics (DIY)
- Toe (front): easiest DIY measurement. Measure at hub height: distance between a fixed point on the front edge of the left and right tires, then distance between the same points at the rear edge. Difference = total toe. If front distance is smaller than rear, that is toe-in.
- Method: Mark identical points on both tires (use string around wheel at hub center or measure from rim). Use tape measure on both sides. Repeat measurements twice.
- Camber: use a bubble level against a straightedge held vertically on the rim, or a camber gauge. Measure the angle from vertical. Convert degrees to mm if you need.
- Caster: difficult without turn plates and double measurements. Shops measure by rotating wheels and comparing steering axis angles. DIY using an inclinometer + turn plates can be done but is advanced.
- Thrust/check rear axle centering: measure from a fixed center point on the body to each rear wheel centerline; or measure diagonals (left-front to right-rear vs right-front to left-rear) to detect asymmetry.

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8) Typical procedure — front toe adjustment (step-by-step)
This is the adjustment you can reliably do at home.

1. Setup:
- Ensure vehicle on level ground, wheels chocked, front wheels pointing straight ahead.
- Put steering wheel straight and tape it or secure center lock if available.
- Ensure tires at correct pressure and vehicle at normal load.

2. Measure current toe:
- Select a point on the tread or rim at hub height and mark it on both sides.
- Measure the distance between left and right marks at the front and at the rear of the tires, same vertical height. Record numbers.
- Total Toe = (rear distance) − (front distance). Positive = toe-in. Convert to mm/inch as needed.
- Note: Many specs are total toe for both wheels (sum).

3. Loosen the outer tie-rod locknut:
- On most Hiluxes you loosen the locknut at the outer tie-rod (where it threads into the inner tie rod or sleeve). Apply penetrating oil if seized.
- If there’s a toe adjuster sleeve, you rotate that sleeve or the inner/outer tie rod to change length.

4. Turn the tie-rod:
- To increase toe-in, shorten the tie‑rod (screw ends in); to reduce toe-in (toward toe-out), lengthen it. One turn is small change — measure repeatedly.
- Mark threads before and after to keep track. Make even turns on both sides to maintain wheel centering (or adjust one side but re-center steering wheel).

5. Re-tighten locknuts:
- When measurements match spec, tighten the locknut securely (to factory torque).
- Re-measure to confirm nothing shifted when torquing.

6. Test:
- Re-center the steering wheel and verify wheel-to-wheel symmetry.
- Road test at low speed, check steering responsiveness and pull.
- Have final accurate check done on an alignment rack ideally.

Notes: Don’t adjust toe if tie-rod ends have play — replace first.

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9) Camber and caster adjustment (overview / steps)
Camber:
- If your Hilux has camber eccentric bolts at the strut top or eccentric washers on the lower arm, camber can be adjusted by rotating those eccentrics to move the top of the knuckle in/out.
- Process:
1. Loosen the top mount/strut bolts a bit (don’t remove).
2. Use the eccentric bolt slots to rotate the strut or control arm to move the upper part of the wheel assembly.
3. Tighten to spec and measure angle again.
- If there are no factory adjusters, you’ll need camber bolts, adjustable top mounts, or aftermarket adjustable lower control arms.

Caster:
- Caster is often adjustable via eccentric bolts in the control arm bushings or by adjustable control arms. Some Hilux models use an adjustable lower arm caster bolt or use adjustable strut top positioning.
- Process:
- Similar to camber: loosen relevant control arm bolts, move the arm fore/aft via eccentric bolt to increase/reduce caster, then tighten and measure.
- If the car is lifted or lowered, caster and camber may be out of spec; aftermarket adjustable arms often required.

Important: On many Hilux models, camber and caster adjustment ranges are limited. If your car is outside specs and there’s no adjuster, you must install adjustable parts or correct bent/worn components.

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10) Rear axle alignment (solid axle + leaf springs)
- Rear toe/thrust: Center the axle under the body. If the axle is off-center, the truck will track off the center line at speed.
- Ways to correct:
- Add or remove shims between spring and axle seat to move axle side-to-side.
- If the axle is fore/aft wrong, shims at front or rear spring eyes or adjustable shackle position can change axle fore/aft.
- If the truck has a Panhard rod or track bar, adjust that to center the axle.
- U‑bolts: whenever you remove U‑bolts or change leaf spring setup, torque U‑bolts to factory spec after settling (re-check after a short test drive).
- Note: Rear wheel toe and camber are often not adjustable without shims or replacement brackets.

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11) What can go wrong — symptoms, causes, fixes
Symptoms:
- Rapid/uneven tire wear (cupping, inner edge wear) — often camber or toe issue + worn components.
- Pulling to one side — toe/camber/caster asymmetry, or worn brake caliper or uneven tire pressure.
- Steering wander at speed — wrong caster, worn shocks, or chassis/structural issue.
- Loose or sloppy steering — worn tie-rod ends, bushings, or ball joints.
- Alignment not holding — loose or worn bushings, bent parts, incorrect torque, or hitting kerbs.

Common causes:
- Worn tie rods, ball joints, bushings, shock absorbers.
- Bent knuckle/control arm from impacts.
- Incorrect ride height (sagged springs, lifted or lowered aftermarket springs).
- Corroded threads/ seized adjusters that prevent accurate adjustments.
- Improper torqueing allowing components to shift under load.

Fixes:
- Replace worn parts first (tie rods, ball joints, bushings, bearings).
- Replace bent components; do not try to bend back steering knuckles.
- Install adjustable arms or camber/caster kits if factory adjusters insufficient.
- Replace cracked or sagged springs; correct ride height.
- Tighten to factory torque and recheck alignment after a short drive.

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12) Final checks and best practice
- Always fix worn components before doing alignment.
- After any adjustment: road test, recheck measurements once the vehicle has settled.
- If you change ride height, alignment settings should be re‑checked because geometry changes with height.
- Professional alignment machines will provide precise caster/camber/toe and thrust-line readings; if you want perfect alignment or have complicated problems, go to a shop.
- Keep records of original measurements and final settings.

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13) Quick reference: common DIY priorities
- Replace worn tie rods, ball joints, bushings first.
- Set toe first (easy and most noticeable).
- Adjust camber/caster if your model has factory eccentrics. If not, you need aftermarket adjustable parts or professional service.
- Recenter rear axle using shims or track rod as required.
- Use factory alignment specifications for final numbers.

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14) Final note on specs and torque
- Exact alignment specs and torque values vary by Hilux model year and trim. Always consult the Toyota service manual for your specific year/model for:
- Target toe/camber/caster values.
- Bolt torques for control arms, tie-rod locknuts, U-bolts, strut mount bolts.
- If you do not have a manual, a dealer or reputable shop can provide specs.

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Wrap-up (practical checklist)
1. Inspect and replace worn parts.
2. Set tires and ride height correctly.
3. Measure current toe, camber, caster.
4. Adjust toe using tie-rods; adj camber/caster using eccentrics/control arms if available.
5. Center rear axle if needed with shims/track bar.
6. Torque everything to spec, road‑test, recheck.

That’s the full beginner‑friendly overview and step‑by‑step approach for suspension geometry on a Toyota Hilux.
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