- Safety first
- Wear eye protection and gloves to keep hands and eyes safe from flying debris and hot parts.
- Work with the engine off, keys out of the ignition, and parking brake on. Wait for the engine to cool if it’s been running.
- If you’ll be crawling under the vehicle, use wheel chocks and jack stands rated for your vehicle. Do not rely on a hydraulic jack alone.

- What you’re dealing with (brief)
- The Hilux uses an automatic spring-loaded belt tensioner and an idler/tensioner pulley that keeps the accessory (serpentine) belt tight.
- “Tensioner_pulley” tasks usually mean either releasing the tension to remove/install the belt or replacing the tensioner assembly or just the pulley if the bearing/wheel has failed.

- Quick diagnosis: when replacement is required
- Squealing or chirping noise from front of engine on start or during acceleration — possible bad bearing in pulley or glazed belt.
- Visible wobble or play if you can move the pulley by hand — bearing failing.
- Scored, cracked, or glazed pulley surface or missing rubber on pulley face.
- Rust around bearing, grinding noise, or pulley seized and does not spin freely.
- Belt slipping, fraying, or heavy wear — belt replacement required.
- If any of the above are present, replace the pulley or the whole tensioner assembly. If only the belt is worn but pulley is good, only replace the belt.

- Parts you may need
- Accessory (serpentine) belt: replace if worn/damaged.
- Tensioner assembly: recommended when pulley bearings have failed or if tensioner spring/arm is weak.
- Tensioner pulley (bearing/pulley only): possible to replace if available as a separate part and the tensioner body is otherwise fine.
- Mounting bolts: sometimes replaced if corroded/damaged; use OEM or equivalent grade bolts.
- Genuine Toyota or high-quality aftermarket parts recommended for longevity.

- Tools you will need (detailed description of every tool and how to use it)
- Ratchet handle (3/8" and/or 1/2"): a socket driver that allows turning sockets quickly. Use matched sockets to fit bolts. For rotating the tensioner, a long-handled ratchet can work but may not give the leverage some tensioners require.
- Breaker bar (long-handled non-ratcheting bar): gives strong leverage to rotate the tensioner safely without binding a ratchet. Useful when the tensioner is very tight.
- Socket set (metric): common sizes 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm. Use the correct socket size for the tensioner fastener or the square drive on the tensioner. Fit must be snug to avoid rounding bolts.
- Extension bar(s): lets you reach recessed tensioner bolts. Use a 3–6 inch extension as needed.
- Serpentine belt tool or long pry bar (specialty tool): a long, thin bar with a 3/8" or 1/2" drive adapter used to rotate the tensioner in tight engine bays. It provides leverage and a slim profile where a breaker bar might not fit.
- Open-end or combination wrench set (metric): used when a socket can’t be used due to space constraints. Use a wrench to rotate the tensioner or to hold a bolt head while loosening the nut.
- Torque wrench (click-type): for tightening bolts to correct specification when installing tensioner/pulley. Prevents overtightening or undertightening. Set to vehicle spec if available (if unknown, tighten to a snug, firm feel and do final check against repair manual).
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for removing splash shields or small clips.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster): loosens corroded bolts before removal.
- Shop rags and a small container: keep removed bolts/parts organized.
- Marker or tape and phone camera: mark and photograph belt routing before removal or use the belt routing sticker on the radiator support so you can reinstall correctly.
- Pry bar (small): to help route a stubborn belt into place, used gently to avoid damaging pulleys.
- Wire brush: clean bolt threads and mounting surface if corroded.
- Replacement hardware and parts (as listed above).

- Why some extra tools are required
- Breaker bar/serpentine tool: automatic tensioners often have strong springs; extra leverage is required to safely move them without damaging the ratchet.
- Torque wrench: tensioner and pulley bolts often have specific torque specs; proper torque prevents loosening or broken studs.
- Extensions and universal joints: some tensioners sit recessed; without extensions or joints you cannot properly fit a socket.
- Penetrating oil and wire brush: engine bay bolts can be corroded; these tools prevent bolt rounding and make removal safer.

- General procedure to relieve tension and remove/install belt or pulley (follow these steps in order)
- Locate the belt routing diagram on the engine bay or take a clear photo of the belt path before removing anything.
- Inspect the belt, tensioner pulley, idlers, and other pulleys for wear, cracks, glazing, or wobble.
- Identify the tensioner: it’s the spring-loaded arm with a pulley that presses on the belt.
- Choose the right tool for the tensioner: check for a square recess (1/2" or 3/8") or a hex bolt (often 14mm). Fit the matching socket or wrench snugly.
- Place the ratchet, breaker bar, or serpentine tool into the tensioner square or onto the bolt head.
- Rotate the tensioner slowly in the correct direction to relieve belt tension (usually clockwise on Toyota automatic tensioners; if it won’t move, reverse and try the other way carefully).
- While holding the tensioner back, slide the belt off the easiest pulley (usually the tensioner or an idler). Never let go suddenly; control release of the tensioner.
- Remove the belt completely and inspect routing again. If replacing the tensioner pulley or assembly, now remove the tensioner mounting bolt(s) using the correct socket/wrench.
- To replace only the pulley: remove the pulley retaining bolt and swap the pulley for the new one. Clean threads, apply thread locker if OEM recommends, and torque to spec.
- To replace the whole tensioner assembly: remove mounting bolts, swap the assembly, and torque mounting bolts to spec.
- Fit the new or existing belt following the routing diagram. Leave the belt off one pulley (again, easiest one) so you can rotate the tensioner and slip the belt on.
- Rotate the tensioner again, slip the belt fully onto the final pulley, then slowly release the tensioner, ensuring the belt seats properly in all pulley grooves.
- Double-check the belt alignment on every pulley and ensure it sits centered in grooves.
- Start the engine briefly and watch the belt run to make sure it tracks cleanly and there are no abnormal noises.

- How to use the main tools while doing this
- Ratchet: set socket onto the tensioner square or bolt, pull smoothly. Do not use short, jerky motions. Keep the handle aligned so the socket doesn’t slip.
- Breaker bar/serpentine tool: position firmly in tensioner square; use steady pressure. The long handle reduces force required. Control the release so the tensioner doesn’t snap back.
- Wrench: place fully over bolt/nut, pull the handle toward you in a steady motion; do not use a cheater pipe as that risks rounding.
- Torque wrench: after installation, set the wrench to the specified torque and tighten the mounting bolts slowly to click point. If you don’t have specs, tighten to a firm, precise feel—preferably look up OEM spec for your exact Hilux model later.
- Penetrating oil: spray on bolts, wait 5–15 minutes, then try loosening gently to avoid snapping a stuck bolt.

- Notes on torque and fasteners
- Many tensioner mounting bolts are critical; overtightening can strip threads or cause component damage. If possible, look up exact torque values for your Hilux model (typical bolt torques can range widely; use a torque wrench and OEM spec).
- Replace bolts that are damaged or heavily corroded.

- Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not photographing the belt routing: results in incorrect installation—always document routing.
- Releasing the tensioner abruptly: can hurt hands or damage parts—release slowly and control it.
- Using worn sockets or the wrong size: can round bolt heads—use correct, good-quality sockets.
- Reusing a seized or noisy pulley: will fail again—replace pulleys/belt/tensioner when symptoms present.

- Final checks after replacement
- Verify belt tension and alignment visually and by running the engine briefly at idle.
- Listen for unusual noises for the first few minutes: rattles, squeals, or groans indicate an issue.
- Recheck bolt tightness after a short test drive.

- If you are a complete beginner: recommended approach
- If you only need to remove/install the belt, the basic set listed plus a long-handled breaker bar or serpentine belt tool and a socket set will usually be enough.
- If the pulley bearing is bad or the tensioner is damaged, replace the pulley or whole tensioner assembly. Buying a tensioner assembly (complete) is often easiest and more reliable for beginners than replacing an individual pulley bearing.
- If unsure about torque specs or bolt condition, consider buying the replacement tensioner as a kit and consult the vehicle’s repair manual or a repair database for torque numbers. If any bolts are seized or you suspect stripped threads, get professional help.

- Recommended replacement choices
- OEM Toyota tensioner/pulley: highest compatibility and durability.
- High-quality aftermarket tensioner/pulley from reputable brands (e.g., Gates, Dayco, Aisin) — cost-effective and reliable.
- Replacement belt: use the exact belt part number for your Hilux engine or a trusted brand with matching length/rib count.

- Summary (what to buy before starting)
- Metric socket set (including a 3/8" and 1/2" drive), breaker bar, long extension, serpentine belt tool or long pry bar, torque wrench, set of metric wrenches, replacement belt (if worn), replacement tensioner or pulley if diagnostics show bearing/tensioner failure, penetrating oil, gloves, eye protection, and a phone/camera to record belt routing.

- Final safety reminder
- Work slowly, keep fingers away from pulley faces while releasing tension, and if a bolt is stuck or you’re uncomfortable, seek a mechanic’s help rather than forcing parts and risking damage or injury.
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