Tools & consumables
- Basic: metric socket/ratchet set (6–24 mm), extensions, universal joint, breaker bar, screwdriver set, pliers, hammer (soft-faced).
- Specialty: long torque wrench (0–200 Nm), camshaft alignment/locking tool(s) (engine-specific), timing-chain/belt locking tool, chain tensioner compressor (or pin tool), harmonic balancer/crank pulley puller, seal driver, dial indicator (optional), feeler gauges, magnet pick-up, drift punch.
- Workshop supplies: engine oil, assembly lube, new oil filter, gasket sealant, threadlocker (as per manual), rags, degreaser, drain pan, jack and stands, wheel chocks.
- Replacement parts usually recommended: new camshaft(s) if damaged, camshaft sprockets, timing chain or belt, tensioner(s), chain guides, camshaft seals, valve cover gasket, any worn lifters/rocker arms/shims, oil and oil filter. Always consult the factory service manual for part numbers.

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground; chock wheels. Support vehicle with rated jack stands; do not rely on a jack.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Wear eye and hand protection. Keep clothing/jewelry away from moving parts.
- Clean work area and label/organize removed parts. Photograph as you go.
- If the job requires head removal or working with coolant/oil, let engine cool and drain fluids properly; dispose of fluids per regulations.
- Follow torque specs and tightening sequences from the factory manual. Improper torquing can destroy bearings and lead to catastrophic engine failure.

Overview (what you are doing)
- You will remove valve cover(s) and timing cover, lock engine at TDC, relieve chain/belt tension, remove cam sprockets, remove camshaft(s) by unbolting caps in the correct sequence, inspect/replace cam and ancillary parts, reinstall using correct torque/sequencing, set timing, prime oiling system, run and verify.

Step-by-step procedure (general DOHC Toyota Hilux engines — adapt to your engine)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Remove engine cover, airbox and intake plumbing that block access.
- Drain engine oil (recommended) and remove oil filter.
- Remove accessory belts, alternator, A/C compressor bracket or move aside if necessary.
- Remove radiator fan/shroud if it obstructs access.

2. Remove valve cover(s)
- Unbolt ignition coils/wires and any sensors on the valve cover.
- Remove valve cover bolts; pry gently if gasket adhered. Label any breather hoses.

3. Set engine to TDC on #1 cylinder
- Rotate crankshaft to top dead center (TDC) compression stroke for cylinder #1 using a socket on the crank pulley bolt. Align crank and cam timing marks with marks on timing cover. Confirm valves for #1 are closed (both rockers loose).
- Use the factory manual marks—do not guess.

4. Lock cams & crank
- Use engine-specific camshaft locking tools to hold the camshafts in the correct alignment. If your engine has a timing chain, use chain locking pins/tools to secure chain to sprockets. For tensioners, compress and lock the tensioner with the appropriate pin/tool.
- How the tools are used: insert the cam-locking tool into the camshaft slots or bolt holes so that lobe position cannot rotate; for chain, install the chain locking pin through a tensioner hole or at a guide so the chain cannot move. Follow tool manufacturer/manual instructions exactly.

5. Remove timing cover and cam sprockets
- Remove timing cover bolts and cover. Inspect seal area.
- Remove camshaft sprocket bolts while holding sprocket from turning (hold with locking tool or breaker bar against crank). Remove sprockets carefully.

6. Remove camshaft caps in correct sequence
- Loosen cam cap bolts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence (usually from outer caps inward, in stages). Do not pry caps off while bolts still snug.
- Lift caps evenly and keep them in order and oriented exactly as removed (caps are dumped/numbered and sometimes have alignment dowels). Keep bearing halves in place if they do not come out with caps.
- Remove camshaft(s) by sliding straight out. Use a clean rag and hand — do not hammer. If binding, back out caps and check for debris.

7. Inspect parts
- Inspect cam lobes, journals and caps for scoring, pitting, or abnormal wear. Measure lobes with micrometer if available; check cam end-play with a dial indicator.
- Inspect camshaft bearings and journals for concentricity. Replace if damaged.
- Inspect timing chain/belt, sprockets, guides and tensioner — replace if any wear or slack.

8. Replace required parts
- Replace seals with new cam seals using seal driver and light coat of oil or sealant as specified.
- Fit new camshaft(s) if replacing. Always replace timing components (chain/belt, tensioner, guides) when camshaft is changed.
- Replace valve cover gasket.

9. Installation of camshaft(s)
- Clean journals and caps thoroughly with solvent; keep everything dirt-free.
- Lightly coat cam journals and lobes with assembly lube per manufacturer instructions.
- Carefully lay camshaft into place, ensuring orientation and end-play are correct.
- Refit caps in original orientation and sequence. Torque cap bolts in multiple stages to the specified torque, following the factory sequence. How to use torque wrench: set to initial low torque, tighten all bolts in sequence, then step up to final torque value. Use new bolts if manual requires.
- Reinstall cam sprockets and torque bolts to spec, using threadlocker if specified.

10. Set timing
- Remove locking tools as per manual (some require specific order).
- Re-tension chain/belt by releasing tensioner and following the service manual procedure for setting tension and locking the tensioner.
- Recheck timing marks at crank and cams to ensure alignment.
- Rotate engine by hand at least two full revolutions and recheck marks and clearances. Ensure no interference and that rotation is smooth.

11. Valve clearance / lifter setup
- If the engine uses shims or adjustable rockers, set valve lash per spec (use feeler gauge or shim change method). For hydraulic lifters, confirm correct preload/operation.
- If lifters are worn, replace them.

12. Reassembly
- Reinstall timing cover with new gaskets/sealant and torque bolts.
- Reinstall valve cover with new gasket and torque to spec.
- Reinstall accessory items (intake, alternator, belts, fan, etc.).
- Refill oil and replace oil filter. Reconnect battery.

13. Prime oiling & first start
- Before starting, crank engine with fuel disabled (or ignition disabled) a few times to build oil pressure and ensure cam journals are lubricated.
- Start engine and watch for oil pressure, leaks, unusual noises. Let idle and reach operating temperature. Recheck timing and retorque bolts if manufacturer requires recheck after heat cycles.
- After a short run, recheck oil level, coolant (if disturbed), and for leaks.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Misaligned timing marks: Always use factory marks and locking tools. One tooth off can cause bent valves or catastrophic engine damage.
- Not locking/holding tensioner properly: If tensioner slips during removal or installation the chain/belt will jump. Use the correct compressor/locking pin.
- Incorrect cam cap orientation or torque sequence: Caps are numbered/marked; reinstall in exact order and torque in steps to spec. Uneven torque damages bearings.
- Reusing worn timing components: Replace chain/belt, tensioner, guides, seals whenever you touch the camshaft — they are inexpensive compared to engine damage.
- Not priming oil: Running dry cams on initial start destroys bearings; always prime/prime-crank to build oil pressure.
- Using wrong parts or bolts: Use OEM or quality aftermarket parts and replace cam cap bolts if service manual requires (they may be torque-to-yield).
- Dirty workspace and contaminated oil passages: Keep everything clean; cover open ports and use lint-free rags.
- Ignoring valve clearance: Incorrect lash causes poor running and accelerated wear.

When to replace parts
- Replace camshaft if lobes/journals scored, flattened, or below service limits.
- Replace camshaft seals whenever cams removed.
- Replace timing chain/belt, tensioner, and guides whenever doing cam service (especially if mileage high).
- Replace lifters/shims/rocker arms if wear observed or if they show collapsed hydraulic action.
- Always use a new valve cover gasket and any timing cover seals.

Notes & final checks
- Exact bolt torques, cam end-play limits, valve clearances and special tool part numbers vary by Hilux engine (2.7 petrol, 2.4/2.5/2.8 diesel, 1KD/2KD etc.). Obtain the factory service manual for your engine for the precise specs and tool part numbers before starting.
- Work methodically, label removed parts, and torque to spec in sequences shown in the manual.

This is a high-risk precision job — follow the service manual, use correct locking tools, and replace timing hardware and seals while you’re in there.
rteeqp73

New Toyota Hilux Engine AWD and Suspension Explained 2.8 Litre Diesel Engine The new, Euro 6d-compliant, DOHC, 16 valve, 2755 cc diesel engine generates 150 kW/ 204 DIN hp at ...

Is this the ultimate HiLux build? Offroad Animal style! Offroad Animal shows you how kick arse your Hilux can be and look with our gear. Enjoy the build video.

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