Below is a direct, experienced-tech step‑by‑step procedure for replacing gearbox synchronizers on a Toyota manual transmission (general Toyota chassis / body types). This assumes a competent mechanic-level workspace and tools. Always consult the factory service manual for the exact vehicle for torque figures, oil type, and any model‑specific steps. No extra commentary.

Summary of required skills: gearbox removal and teardown, press work, snap‑ring handling, reassembly with measured clearances.

Safety precautions (absolute)
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Use jack stands rated for vehicle weight; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Use a transmission jack or properly rated floor jack with blocking to support the gearbox.
- Support the engine with an engine support bar or jack under the oil pan with a block to prevent engine movement when bellhousing bolts are removed.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and use hearing protection when using presses and hammers.
- Drain fluids before disconnecting lines; clean up spills and dispose of oil/diesel properly.
- Keep parts organized; label or take photos of fork/shaft positions to avoid assembly errors.

Tools and consumables (typical)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set, extensions, swivel joints
- Torque wrench (range to cover bellhousing and case bolts)
- Screwdrivers, pry bars, drift punches, hammer (deadblow/plastic)
- Transmission jack or heavy floor jack + wood block
- Engine support bar or jack with block under engine
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal and external)
- Bearing puller / gear puller and/or hydraulic/ arbor press (10–20 ton depending on gearbox)
- Seal driver set / brass drift set
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for end‑play/backlash checks)
- Feeler gauges / Plastigage (for clearance checks)
- Torque screwdriver / impact tools as required
- Punch set, alignment dowel (clutch alignment tool if removing clutch)
- Clean rags, parts cleaner/solvent, gear oil, assembly lube, thread locker (per manual)
- New gaskets/seals, pinion seal, input shaft seal, O‑rings, replacement synchronizer kit(s), new circlips, bearings if worn, new shift forks if worn
- Replacement sync rings, hubs, sleeves, blocker rings (synchronizer kit) — obtain kits for the specific gearbox model.
- Anti‑seize and recommended manual gearbox oil.

High‑level replacement flow (then detailed steps)
1) Vehicle prep and gearbox removal
2) Disassembly to access synchronizers (split case)
3) Remove worn synchronizer components and inspect related parts
4) Install new synchronizer kit parts, bearings/seals as needed; check tolerances
5) Reassemble gearbox, refit to vehicle, fill with correct oil, test.

Detailed step‑by‑step

1 — Prep and initial teardown
- Park, chock, disconnect battery negative.
- Drain gearbox oil. Remove driveshafts/CV axles or propshaft depending on front/rear drive. For RWD remove propshaft and driveshaft flange bolts; for FWD remove halfshafts at hub and from trans.
- Remove shift lever (interior) and shift linkage on transmission. Mark linkage locations for reassembly.
- Remove starter motor, center console parts as needed, exhaust cross‑pipe or heat shield if obstructing gearbox removal.
- Support engine with an engine support bar or with a jack under the oil pan and a wood block; prevent engine rotation/tilt when removing bellhousing bolts.
- Support transmission with a transmission jack under gearbox.
- Unbolt and remove clutch slave cylinder or disconnect hydraulic line (cap lines to prevent contamination). If clutch is worn, consider replacement while trans is out. Remove clutch assembly/flywheel if necessary for access to pilot bearing. (You can sometimes remove gearbox without removing clutch, but pilot bearing may need inspection.)

2 — Disconnect and drop gearbox
- Label and disconnect sensors, wiring, speedometer cable/drive, reverse light switch.
- Remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts in a crisscross pattern. Keep bolts in order.
- Carefully slide transmission back and lower it with the jack. Check engagement with clutch; you may need a slight rotation to clear input shaft splines.
- Lower gearbox to clear vehicle and move to a clean bench.

3 — Clean and prepare for split
- Clean external gearbox grime to avoid contamination inside when case split.
- Remove any remaining oil.
- Place gearbox on bench support blocks. Mark case halves orientation. Remove case bolts (note bolts of different lengths). Keep hardware organized.

4 — Split case and remove internals
- Withdraw selector mechanism and shift forks: mark which fork goes to which rail and gear. Use paint or tags.
- Remove snap rings and circlips securing shafts. Use snap‑ring pliers. Keep all small parts in order.
- Extract mainshaft, layshaft, and input shaft assemblies. Use puller or press if bearings are tight. An arbor press with drift is often used to remove bearings from shafts.
- Remove synchronizer hubs, sleeves, blocker rings, and synchro rings. Use gentle prying and snap‑ring removal. On some models the blocker ring retains on the cone and is removed by sliding off the cone when disengaged. Use care not to damage gear teeth or hub splines.

How the specific tools are used (examples)
- Snap‑ring pliers: remove internal/external rings that retain hubs and bearings. Choose correct jaw tips and orientation for internal/external rings.
- Arbor/hydraulic press: press bearings off shafts and press new bearings on. Use correct adapters to press on the race, not the bearing rollers. Use a fixture to support the shaft. Heat bearing lightly (not exceeding manufacturer limits) to ease removal/installation if allowed.
- Gear/steering puller: used to remove gears or hubs stuck on splines; apply even pressure and protect mating surfaces with a wood block.
- Dial indicator: measure end‑play of mainshaft and layshaft after assembly. Set indicator on gear face or flange and push/pull shaft to get axial clearance. Compare to spec.
- Seal driver/brass drift: install new seals flush without damaging sealing lip.
- Transmission jack: supports heavy gearbox during removal and installation ensuring alignment with engine input shaft.

5 — Inspection (critical)
- Inspect synchronizer rings (brass or steel friction surfaces) for glazing, pitting, or worn teeth. Replace any that show wear.
- Inspect blocker rings for cracked or rounded engagement teeth. If worn, change them.
- Inspect synchro hubs and sleeves for wear of mating splines, burrs, or warping. Replace if excessive wear or looseness between hub and sleeve.
- Check gears and dog teeth for chipping or rounding.
- Inspect bearings and races for pitting or play; replace as required.
- Inspect shift forks for wear at contact pads and correct contour; replace or re‑surfacing required if worn.
- Inspect input shaft and mainshaft splines for wear. Replace shafts if splines are damaged.

6 — Replace synchronizer components
- Assemble new synchro rings, blocker rings, hubs and sleeves per kit instructions. Synchronizer kits usually include new rings, small circlips, springs (if applicable), and sometimes hub assemblies.
- Install blocker ring ensuring correct orientation (most have chamfers or arrows); blocker ring must face the correct direction — factory manual will show orientation.
- Press new bearings onto shafts using arbor press and correct driver surfaces; do not press on bearing rollers.
- Replace all seals and gaskets. Use new case gasket or silicone sealant if specified.
- Replace worn shift forks, rails or detents as necessary. Use new circlips for retaining components.

7 — Reassembly of gearbox
- Reinstall layshaft and mainshaft assemblies into their respective bearings and cases. Ensure shims/backing plates are correctly installed (and recorded during disassembly).
- Reinstall synchronizer hubs/sleeves and snap rings. Verify free sliding action of the sleeve on the hub and correct engagement of the blocker ring.
- Reinstall shift forks onto hubs, align with selector rails. Confirm smooth shift through positions by moving selector.
- Apply assembly lube to bearings and friction surfaces per manual.
- Close gearbox case halves: clean mating surfaces, install new case gaskets or sealant, torque case bolts to factory specs in recommended sequence.
- Reinstall external components (speed sensor, reverse switch, fill/vent plugs).

8 — Pre‑install checks
- Use dial indicator to check endplay of shafts and gear mesh/backlash if accessible. Confirm values within factory limits.
- Rotate input/mainshaft to ensure smooth gear engagement and no binding. Shift through all gears manually to confirm synchro function.
- Replace any hardware that was deformed or lost (use new circlips and sometimes new case bolts if stretch bolts are used).

9 — Reinstall transmission into vehicle
- Clean bellhousing mating surfaces. Align input shaft to clutch using clutch alignment tool if clutch was removed. Use transmission jack to raise gearbox to bellhousing, align dowels and slide fully forward. Install bellhousing bolts finger tight, then torque to spec.
- Reattach starter, shift linkage, driveshafts/CV axles, exhaust and any components removed. Reconnect sensors and wiring. Reconnect slave cylinder/hydraulic lines and bleed clutch if necessary.
- Refill gearbox with correct grade and quantity of gear oil. Reconnect battery.

10 — Final checks and test drive
- Start engine, rotate through gears with vehicle on stands to check smooth engagement and no grinding.
- Lower vehicle, test drive at low speed checking all gears under light and moderate loads for smooth shift and no noises. Recheck fluid level after short drive.
- After 100–300 miles recheck bolts and fluid levels, inspect for leaks.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Mixing up shift forks or rails — tag/mark everything during disassembly.
- Reusing worn sync rings, blocker rings, or hubs — replacement is cheap vs repeat repair. If rings show glazing/rounded teeth, replace.
- Not replacing bearings/seals — leads to early failure and contamination of new synchros. Replace suspect bearings.
- Pressing on bearing rollers instead of races — damages bearings. Always press on the race surface intended for force, or use a proper driver that contacts the inner/outer ring as required.
- Incorrect orientation of blocker/sync rings — always check orientation marks; wrong direction causes immediate shifting problems.
- Incorrect clamp/torque on case bolts — follow torque pattern and specs to avoid case distortion and leaks.
- Skipping endplay/backlash checks — will cause premature wear or noisy gear operation. Measure and correct shim stack per manual.
- Contaminating friction surfaces with grease or oil — keep synchro friction surfaces clean and use proper assembly lube only where specified.
- Not supporting engine properly — can break mounts or misalign input shaft during reinstall.
- Reusing old circlips/retainers that deform on removal — always install new retaining rings where worn or recommended.

Replacement parts typically required
- Synchronizer kit(s) for each gear replaced: friction rings, blocker rings, hub/sleeve assemblies (as required), springs/circlips.
- Input/main/lay shaft bearings (if worn or removed).
- Output/pinion seals, input seals, case gasket or RTV.
- Shift fork pads or full forks if worn.
- Snap rings, circlips, and any damaged fasteners.
- Possible pilot bearing / clutch components if disturbed.

Notes on torque and specs
- Torque values, shim thicknesses, endplay specs and oil type vary by transmission model. Use the Toyota factory service manual for exact numbers and specifications. Do not guess torque figures.

Final reminder
- Cleanliness and organization are critical. A contaminated or incorrectly assembled synchronizer will produce noise or rapid wear. If any doubt about the condition of hubs, sleeves, or shafts, replace the affected parts.

This procedure covers the full-service approach. Follow the vehicle‑specific manual for exact bolt torques, shimming and final checks.
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