Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set, extensions, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm)
- Transmission jack or heavy floor jack + support
- Engine support bar or engine hoist (if required)
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal & external)
- Hydraulic press (or arbor press)
- Gear/puller set (bearing & gear pullers)
- Bearing race & seal driver set
- Brass/nylon drift & soft (dead‑blow) hammer
- Bench vise with soft jaws or protectors
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for endplay)
- Feeler gauges and vernier caliper/micrometer
- Pick set and small screwdrivers
- Parts trays / labeled bags and marker (tag all parts)
- Clean lint‑free rags, solvent/degreaser, brake cleaner
- OEM manual or transmission teardown manual (for specs)
- New synchronizer kit (model‑specific OEM or quality aftermarket) — includes brass blocker rings, steel sleeves, hub, springs, keys
- New bearings, seals, circlips, shims (replace as needed)
- High temperature assembly lube and correct manual transmission oil (per Toyota spec)
- Shop gloves, safety glasses, jack stands, wheel chocks

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat level surface; block wheels and engage parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Use a transmission jack when removing/installing the trans; have a helper if needed.
- Use eye protection and gloves when pressing or removing snap rings and gears.
- Keep a clean, well‑lit bench. Label everything and photograph assemblies for reassembly.
- Follow torque and endplay specs from the factory manual. Improper torque can cause failure.

Step‑by‑step procedure

1) Preparation
- Obtain the exact synchronizer kit and any bearings/seals for the specific Toyota model/transmission.
- Read the OEM manual pages for transmission removal, input/main shaft layout, and torque/endplay specs.
- Drain transmission fluid into a container and dispose/clean properly.

2) Remove transmission from vehicle
- Remove driveshaft(s), starter, exhaust or crossmember as needed to access trans.
- Disconnect shifter linkage, clutch slave/master lines, speedometer cable/sensors, electrical connectors.
- Support engine if bellhousing bolts remove engine mount points.
- Use a transmission jack to support the trans, unbolt bellhousing bolts, lower transmission carefully.
- Place transmission on bench.

3) External disassembly & service area setup
- Clean the exterior to avoid dirt ingress.
- Remove tail housing, front cover and extension housings to expose shafts.
- Work methodically: take photos and tag components; keep fasteners in order.

4) Remove main & input shafts
- Remove snap rings and sliding hubs/collars per manual.
- Use puller or slide shafts out of case; press off gears/bearings as needed with hydraulic press and appropriate adapters.
- Keep gears and components in order on bench to preserve stack order.

5) Inspect synchronizer components
- Typical synchronizer consists of: hub (splined to main shaft), sliding sleeve, blocker (brass) ring, springs/keys.
- Inspect blocker rings (brass) friction surface — they wear/coned. Measure thickness against new part. If surface is glazed, chipped, cracked or worn beyond limit replace.
- Inspect steel sleeve teeth for burrs, rounded corners, wear on engagement teeth.
- Inspect hub teeth and internal spline for hooking/wear.
- Inspect shift forks for wear/pin deformation; worn forks cause poor engagement.
- Inspect keys/springs; if missing or weak replace.
- Check main & input shaft journals, splines and bearings; replace any bearings showing pitting or scoring.

6) Remove worn synchronizer parts
- Remove circlips/snap rings retaining hub assemblies.
- Use press or hub puller to remove hub from shaft if interference fit.
- Remove blocker ring (may be held by friction). Use gentle heat if stuck — do not overheat (avoid bronze flashing).
- Keep the orientation of blocker ring—note beveled side that contacts cone.

7) Replacement & measurement requirements
- Replace blocker rings in matched sets — never mix used/new if wear is obvious.
- Install new sleeve/hub as a matched kit (many kits come as matched components). Replace springs/keys.
- Replace bearings and seals; install new O‑rings/gaskets on covers before reassembly.
- Measure axial endplay of main shaft with dial indicator; consult manual for shim values and re‑shimming procedure. Adjust shims to achieve specified endplay.
- Use micrometer to measure cone surface wear against new blocker ring seating face; if cone is worn beyond spec, the cone (gear) must be replaced.

8) Reassembly of synchronizer
- Clean all parts with solvent; dry and lightly coat friction surfaces with assembly lube where specified (do NOT grease the friction surfaces of blocker rings).
- Install blocker ring with correct orientation (beveled side toward sleeve/gear cone — check manual).
- Install springs/keys and confirm they retain the blocker correctly.
- Press hub onto shaft using press adapters that apply force to hub body only; avoid forcing on teeth. Ensure correct seating depth.
- Install snap rings/circlips into grooves; verify they are fully seated.
- Assemble sleeve over hub; confirm free but correct axial movement and engagement with blocker ring.

9) Reassembly of gearbox
- Reinstall shafts into case in original order. Replace bearing races and new seals as needed.
- Reinstall covers with new gaskets or RTV per manual.
- Torque all fasteners to OEM specifications.
- Check main shaft endplay with dial indicator and adjust shims if necessary until in spec.

10) Bench testing before vehicle
- Shift through all gears on bench while rotating input/output to confirm smooth engagement, no grinding or blocking and synchronizer sleeve returns fully.
- If grinding persists, recheck orientation of blocker ring and condition of cone surfaces.

11) Reinstall transmission
- Clean bellhousing mating surfaces; install new pilot bearing or bushing if removed.
- Align transmission to engine input spline carefully using pilot tool or clutch alignment tool (if manual clutch).
- Torque bellhousing bolts to spec. Reconnect all linkages, lines, electricals.
- Refill with correct grade and amount of transmission oil specified by Toyota.

12) Final checks
- Bleed clutch hydraulics if removed.
- Start engine, shift through gears while stationary, then road test under light load. Confirm smooth upshifts/downshifts and no noise.
- After initial break‑in miles, recheck fluid levels and re‑torque external fasteners if required by manual.

How the specific tools are used (practical notes)
- Snap‑ring pliers: choose internal vs external style for clip type. Compress or expand fully and seat into groove; do not lever on ring.
- Hydraulic/arbor press: use correctly sized receivers that support the hub/gear without applying force to gear teeth. Press slowly and straight; heat hub slightly (~80–100°C) to aid removal if interference fit.
- Gear/bearing puller: use a 3‑arm or internal puller that pulls on the correct flange. Protect surfaces with soft jaw or wood blocks.
- Dial indicator: mount on rigid base, zero on stationary case, bring tip to end of shaft or specified surface; rotate shaft to ensure reading is stable. Measure axial movement for endplay.
- Feeler gauge/micrometer: use to measure cone clearance and synchro engagement heights per manual specs.
- Soft hammer/drift: for light persuasion only; avoid striking splined surfaces directly.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing worn blocker rings/sleeves: causes continued slipping/grinding — replace as a matched set.
- Incorrect blocker ring orientation: causes failure to synchronize and grinding — always orient as manual shows.
- Applying press force to teeth or thin walls: will damage parts — use proper adapters.
- Not replacing bearings/seals: new synchro on bad bearings yields premature failure; replace bearings if any roughness or play.
- Wrong lubricant: use specified manual transmission oil; do not use gear oil with additives that can affect brass parts if manual warns.
- Missing/incorrect shims causes wrong endplay — always measure and set endplay to spec.
- Not verifying shift fork condition — bent or worn forks will force synchronizers to overwork.
- Dirty assembly: contaminants accelerate wear — keep everything clean and use lint‑free rags and solvent.

When replacement is required
- Always replace synchronizer rings if worn, cracked, glazed or under thickness spec.
- Replace the sliding sleeve or hub if splines are rounding or teeth are heavily worn.
- Replace bearings, circlips, seals, and pilot bushing as a matter of course when shafts are out.
- Replace shifter forks if worn or bent.

Notes and final advice (concise)
- Follow the Toyota service manual for torque and dimensional specs — they are model‑specific and critical.
- Use OEM or OEM‑equivalent synchronizer kits; mixed aftermarket parts can mismatch and cause premature failure.
- Work methodically, label everything, and test on the bench before reinstalling.

No further commentary.
rteeqp73

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