Tools & PPE
- PPE: safety glasses, nitrile gloves, long sleeves, respirator if using strong solvents.
- Basic tools: metric socket set, extension, ratchet, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Torque wrench (required).
- Plastic/nylon scraper, brass or nylon brushes, small picks.
- Shop rags, lint-free towels, clean plastic caps or shop towels to plug ports.
- Carburetor/throttle body/intake cleaner (ODS-free), parts washer or ultrasonic tank for off-vehicle cleaning.
- Brake cleaner or solvent for final wipe.
- Compressed air (shop air) with blow gun and small nozzle.
- Fuel-pressure gauge / Schrader tool and means to relieve fuel pressure.
- Multimeter / OBD-II scanner.
- Container for coolant and drain pan (if intake contains coolant passages).
- Replacement parts: intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, injector O‑rings/seals, PCV valve, any specified manifold-to-head bolts if torque-to-yield per manual.
- Optional: small vacuum pump for leak check, gasket scraper, chemical soak tank.

Safety precautions (must-do)
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Relieve fuel system pressure before disconnecting fuel lines.
- If manifold carries coolant, drain radiator to below manifold level and capture fluid.
- Protect open intake ports — always cover with clean rags or plastic caps to keep debris out.
- Work in a well-ventilated area; avoid inhaling solvent vapors.
- Never use a metal scraper directly on sealing surfaces aggressively — you can gouge aluminum.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Prep
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, disconnect negative battery.
- Relieve fuel pressure (key-off, remove fuel pump fuse and crank to relieve, or use fuel-pressure gauge per factory method).
- Drain coolant if manifold has coolant passages.

2. Remove intake-system components
- Remove airbox, intake ducting, MAF sensor (mark orientation, do not drop), and disconnect mass air flow electrical connector.
- Label and disconnect vacuum lines, EVAP/Purge solenoid hoses, PCV hose, and any wiring harness clips attached to the intake.
- Remove throttle body assembly if required for access (disconnect throttle cable/electrical connectors).
- If fuel rail/injectors block access, remove fuel rail: after depressurizing, disconnect electrical connectors to injectors, unplug fuel feed and return lines (cap them to prevent leakage), unbolt rail, lift injectors out with care.

3. Unbolt and remove intake manifold
- Loosen manifold bolts in several passes, using the reverse of the tightening sequence (usually center-to-outside). Do not pry on the manifold; if it’s stuck, tap lightly to break seal.
- Lift manifold straight up; cover ports immediately. Inspect for coolant passages and note any gasket remnants.

4. Inspect
- Check ports for heavy carbon, warped surfaces, cracked plastic (on composite manifolds), or plugged coolant passages.
- Inspect injector O-rings and replace if hardened/damaged.
- Identify any torque-to-yield bolts that must be replaced (factory manual).

5. Cleaning — on-car (limited) vs off-car (recommended)
- Recommended: remove manifold and clean off-vehicle in parts washer or ultrasonic bath for thorough, safe cleaning.
- Off-vehicle cleaning:
- Soak manifold in solvent/parts-washer to loosen carbon.
- Use brass brush and plastic/nylon scraper on aluminum surfaces. Avoid steel scrapers that will gouge aluminum.
- Clean EGR and runner passages with soft brushes; use compressed air to blow out loosened carbon.
- For heavy carbon in intake runners, use a plastic pick or brass brush. For carbon in the throttle bore, use throttle body cleaner and a rag—do not spray into sensors.
- Flush passages with clean solvent and blow dry with compressed air.
- On-vehicle cleaning (only for light carbon):
- Clean throttle body externally, remove carbon with throttle-body cleaner and rag while protecting sensors and electrical connectors.
- Use cleaner spray into intake while engine idling only if manufacturer allows — DO NOT use excessive spray. This method is riskier and can dislodge large chunks that enter cylinders or contaminate sensors.

6. Surfaces & gasket prep
- Clean head and manifold mating surfaces with plastic scraper and solvent until flat and bright. Remove all old gasket material and sealant.
- Do not scratch or gouge surfaces. If surface is warped or pitted, consult shop manual — machine or replace manifold.
- Replace all gaskets: intake manifold gasket(s), throttle-body gasket, and injector O-rings. Use new PCV valve if aged.

7. Reassembly
- Fit new gaskets and align manifold. Install bolts finger-tight.
- Torque manifold bolts in correct sequence and in steps to the factory torque values — use the service manual for exact numbers and sequence.
- Reinstall fuel rail and injectors with new O-rings and proper lubrication on O-rings (a little clean engine oil). Torque rail bolts per manual.
- Reconnect all hoses, sensors, vacuum lines, and electrical connectors. Reinstall throttle body and air intake parts.
- If coolant was drained, refill and bleed cooling system per factory procedure.

8. Final checks and start-up
- Double-check fuel line fittings and for any leaks.
- Reconnect battery, clear fault codes (scan tool), and prime fuel system (turn key on then start).
- Inspect for vacuum, fuel, or coolant leaks.
- Let engine reach operating temperature, verify idle quality, then road test.
- Re-scan for codes and confirm long-term trim values are returning to normal.

How to use the cleaning tools properly
- Plastic/nylon scraper: use to remove gasket material without scoring. Hold at a shallow angle, use light passes.
- Brass/nylon brushes: agitate carbon without cutting metal. Work in sections; don’t force brush into tight corners.
- Solvent/parts washer: apply and allow soak time, then agitate with brush and rinse thoroughly. Use an ultrasonic tank for stubborn carbon — follow chemical manufacturer instructions.
- Compressed air: blow from manifold openings toward the outside to avoid forcing debris into closed passages. Wear eye protection.
- Throttle-body cleaner: spray onto rag and wipe, or spray briefly then wipe — avoid soaking electrical connectors or sensors.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not relieving fuel pressure: risk of spraying fuel. Always relieve first.
- Letting debris into intake ports/cylinders: always cap ports immediately when manifold removed.
- Reusing old gaskets or damaged O-rings: leads to vacuum or coolant leaks — always replace.
- Using metal scrapers/electrical tools that scratch aluminum: use plastic or brass tools.
- Skipping torque sequence or specs: causes warping or leaks — use torque wrench and follow manual.
- Forgetting coolant drain on manifolds with coolant passages: causes spills and difficulty removing manifold.
- Damaging sensors or connectors: label and handle connectors carefully; don’t over-stretch vacuum lines.
- Over-aggressive chemical use on sensors and seals: avoid spraying sensors directly; protect seals and plastic parts.
- Not checking for torque-to-yield bolts: reusing TTY bolts can lead to improper clamping and failure.

Replacement parts typically required
- Intake manifold gasket(s)
- Throttle body gasket
- Injector O‑rings/seals
- PCV valve (recommended)
- Any fasteners specified as torque-to-yield in the service manual
- Optional: new intake bolts if corroded or damaged

Notes / Final tips
- Get the factory service manual for the exact torque values and bolt sequences for your specific Toyota engine — critical for correct reassembly.
- If manifold is plastic/composite and heavily carboned internally, consider replacement if cleaning risks cracking or if internal passages are eroded.
- If the vehicle has an EGR cooler or passages integrated, follow the EGR cleaning/removal procedure in the manual.

Done.
rteeqp73

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