Tools & supplies
- OEM-specified hydraulic/transmission fluid (check service manual for type and capacity)
- Replacement hydraulic/transmission filter(s) and O-rings/seals (OEM part numbers recommended)
- Replacement crush washer/gasket for drain plug
- Large drain pan (sized for full capacity), absorbent pads
- Socket set and wrenches (metric), including appropriate size for drain/fill plugs
- Torque wrench (for drain/fill plug, filter housing bolts if applicable)
- Filter wrench or adjustable strap wrench (for spin‑on filters)
- Fluid transfer pump or suction gun (for filling through fill port if necessary)
- Funnel with strainer or fill hose
- Clean lint‑free rags and parts cleaner
- Safety gloves, eye protection, protective clothing
- Wheel chocks / machine blocks (to immobilize)
- Battery disconnect tools (wrench)
- Shop manual or service spec sheet (for capacities, torque specs, filler & dipstick locations)
- Disposal containers & labels for used fluid

Safety precautions (read before starting)
- Work on a level, hard surface. Lower loader arms and attachments to the ground.
- Chock wheels and engage parking brake. Remove key and disconnect battery negative terminal to prevent accidental starts.
- Machine components and hydraulics get hot. Allow to cool or use heat‑resistant gloves and eye protection.
- Hydraulic systems can be under pressure. Relieve system pressure per service manual (cycle controls with engine off or use specified bleeder steps) before opening lines or removing plugs.
- Keep hands and clothing clear of moving parts. Never work under the machine supported only by hydraulics — use proper mechanical supports if raising the machine.
- Contain and dispose of used fluid per local regulations.

Preliminary checks
1. Consult the factory/service manual for:
- Which fluid is required (hydraulic vs transmission/hydrostatic — many skid steers use one combined hydraulic/hydrostatic fluid, others have separate drive transmissions).
- Capacity and fill/dipstick location.
- Torque values for drain/fill plugs and filter housing.
- Location of transmission (drive) sump/filter vs implement hydraulic reservoir.
2. Identify whether the drivetrain is hydrostatic (most skid steers) — you may be servicing the hydraulic/transmission reservoir that feeds the final drives and controls. Some models have separate final drive oil — locate all relevant drains/fillers.

Step‑by‑step fluid change
A. Preparation
1. Warm fluid: Run the engine for 5–10 minutes to bring fluid to operating temperature (warmer fluid drains faster and carries contaminants). Then stop engine.
2. Secure machine: Lower attachments, chock wheels, set parking brake, remove key, and disconnect battery negative. Relieve hydraulic pressure per manual (move controls several times with engine off if specified).
3. Position drain pan under the transmission/hydraulic drain plug(s). Also place rags to catch drips.

B. Drain fluid
4. Remove fill cap/dipstick to allow air in and speed drainage.
5. Remove drain plug(s). Use correct sized socket/wrench. Let fluid drain completely into pan. If machine has separate final drive gearboxes with fill/drain plugs, drain those too (note: some gearboxes require removal of access plates).
- How the tool is used: Use the socket on a ratchet to break the plug free, then remove by hand. Catch fluid in pan. Replace crush washer later.
6. If the system uses a spin‑on filter or internal element:
- Place filter wrench on filter canister, turn counterclockwise to loosen. Allow residual fluid to drain from filter housing into pan.
- If filter housing bolts must be removed, use correct socket and note bolt positions. Use a torque wrench to reinstall to spec.

C. Replace filter(s) & seals
7. Replace filter element(s) with OEM parts. Lightly coat new filter O‑ring with clean hydraulic fluid before installing (ensures seal). Install to hand‑tight, then follow manufacturer recommendation (usually hand‑tight plus 1/4 turn or torque spec).
- How tool is used: Use filter wrench only to seat filter if needed. Do not over‑torque; risk stripping housing or crushing O‑ring.
8. Replace drain plug crush washer/gasket and any O‑rings removed. Clean sealing faces.

D. Reinstall drain plug & refill
9. Reinstall drain plug and torque to factory spec using torque wrench. Clean any drips.
- How tool is used: Set torque wrench to specified value, snug plug, and apply smooth force until wrench clicks.
10. Refill fluid through fill port/dipstick tube or reservoir with a clean funnel or fluid transfer pump. Use correct fluid; fill to the “full” mark on dipstick or to specified level with the machine on level ground. If filling with a pump, run pump until recommended level reached.
- If the machine has multiple reservoirs (hydraulic and final drive), fill each to the correct level separately.

E. Bleed air and verify
11. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Cycle all controls (arms, bucket, steering, forward/reverse if hydrostatic) several times through their full range to purge air and circulate fluid.
12. Stop engine and re‑check fluid level with dipstick. Add fluid as needed — do not overfill. Some hydrostatic transmissions require checking fluid with engine running at idle and controls neutral — follow manual.
13. Inspect for leaks around drain plug, filter, hoses, and fittings. Tighten if necessary to spec.

F. Test operation & final checks
14. Operate machine under light load and re‑check fluid level and leaks after a short test run. Allow fluid to cool, then re‑check level again.
15. Properly label service date, fluid type, and hours on machine log or on a tag placed on reservoir.

Replacement parts typically required
- Hydraulic/transmission fluid (OEM type, quantity per manual)
- Transmission/hydraulic filter element(s) (spin‑on or cartridge)
- Drain plug crush washer/gasket(s) and possibly O‑rings for filter housing
- Replacement seals if any are found leaking (inspect while open)

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using wrong fluid: Always use OEM‑recommended fluid. Wrong viscosity or additive package causes premature wear and transmission issues.
- Not replacing filter or O‑rings: New fluid through an old clogged filter defeats the purpose. Replace seals to avoid leaks.
- Not relieving pressure: Removing plugs or filters under pressure can spray hot fluid — always relieve pressure first.
- Overfilling: Overfilling hydrostatic systems causes aeration and poor performance. Fill to proper mark/spec.
- Not cycling controls to purge air: Air causes softness, erratic steering, and overheating. Cycle thoroughly to bleed air out.
- Reusing crush washer or damaged plug threads: Always replace crush washers and inspect threads. Cross‑threading causes leaks and costly repairs.
- Not cleaning area before opening: Dirt contamination will shorten component life. Clean reservoir cap and surroundings before opening.
- Improper torque: Under‑torqued plugs leak; over‑torqued plugs can strip or crack housings. Use torque wrench and manual specs.

Disposal
- Collect used fluid and filters in approved containers. Dispose of per local environmental regulations at an approved recycling or disposal facility.

Final notes
- Exact drain/fill locations, capacities, and torque specs vary between 4SDK3/4/5/6/8/10 — always cross‑check the factory service manual or Toyota parts sheet before starting. Follow any model‑specific bleeding procedures in the manual for hydrostatic transmissions.

End.
rteeqp73

1988 TOYOTA SDK 7 SKID STEER RESTORATION THIS IS THE FINAL PART (PART 3) TO THE WILL IT RUN SERIES ON THIS 1988 TOYOTA SDK7 SKID STEER. IN THIS VIDEO ...

Toyota 2SDK8 SDK8 Skid Steer Steering Adjustment, Filters, No power issue Part 2 Part 2 will cover the steering linkage adjustment as well as an overview of the fluids and filters I will be changing. It will also cover ...

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