Theory — what main bearings do and why they fail
- Main bearings locate and support the crankshaft in the block, transmitting engine loads into the block while allowing the crank to rotate on a thin hydrodynamic film of oil.
- Hydrodynamic lubrication: at speed the journal pulls oil into an elliptical pressure wedge between journal and bearing surface; that pressure carries load. Proper radial clearance and oil viscosity are essential to maintain the oil film.
- Failure modes: oil starvation, contaminated oil (abrasives), incorrect clearances (too tight → metal contact; too loose → low oil pressure and whipping), misalignment, fatigue from repeated load cycles, overheating, corrosion. Failures show as scoring, flaking, embedded particles, discoloration.
- Repair goal: restore correct journal geometry and bearing clearance, remove damaged surfaces and contamination, restore oil film formation so the crank spins freely under load without metal-to-metal contact.

Ordered procedure (concise, in repair order)
Tools and consumables: engine hoist (if out of frame), standard engine hand tools, torque wrench, micrometer (0.01 mm), plastigage, dial bore gauge or inside micrometer for main housing, straight edge/feeler gauges, crankshaft journal micrometer, solvent, new main bearings (correct size/undersize if required), assembly lube, OEM service manual for specs, oil pan gasket, oil filter, clean shop rags, oil.

1) Preparation and safety
- Disconnect battery, drain oil and coolant. Work on a clean, well-lit bench if engine removed. Consult OEM manual for engine-out vs in-frame procedures.

2) Remove external components
- Remove intake/exhaust, accessories, timing cover and timing gear/chain or belt as required to free the crankshaft, oil pan, oil pump, and front/rear seals.

3) Remove oil pan and oil pump
- Unbolt oil pan, remove pickup and pump. Keep parts clean; note hardware and torque types.

4) Mark and document orientation
- Number main caps (and rod caps) in sequence and mark orientation. Photographs recommended. Do not interchange caps without noting orientation.

5) Remove main bearing caps and the crankshaft (or remove caps only if engine remains in place)
- Loosen caps in sequence. Lift crank out carefully; support journals. Inspect caps for cracks.

6) Visual inspection
- Inspect journals and bearings: look for scoring, embedded particles, discoloration (blueing), flattening. Remove bearing shells and inspect bearing saddles.

7) Measure crank journals and bores
- Use a micrometer to measure each crank journal diameter at multiple axial and circumferential points. Measure main housing bores with a dial bore gauge or inside micrometer. Calculate bearing clearance = journal diameter subtracted from bore diameter (or use bearing thickness spec). Record values and compare to OEM tolerance chart. If journals are out of round or undersize below tolerance, crankshaft grinding or replacement is required.

8) Decide service route
- If journals are within spec and housing bore in tolerance: you can fit standard-size new bearings.
- If journals are scored or undersize beyond spec: machine shop to grind crank to undersize and fit matching undersize bearings, or replace crank.
- If block saddles are distorted/out of spec: align-hone or line-bore the block (machine shop).

9) Clean and prepare surfaces
- Clean crank journals, main caps, block bearing saddles, and oil passages with solvent and lint-free cloths. Remove all old sealant and debris. Ensure oil galleries are clear.

10) Install new bearing shells
- Fit one half in each cap and saddle, confirm locating tabs engaged. Check that bearing tangs and oil holes align. Do not smear grease into oil galleries.

11) Preliminary clearance check (plasti-gage or micrometer method)
- Either: place a strip of plastigage on each journal, assemble cap and torque to spec, then remove cap and compare flattened plastigage width to scale to get clearance; or calculate clearance from measured journal and bearing thickness using datasheet values. Confirm all clearances fall within OEM tolerance and are consistent across mains.

12) Final crank reassembly and torque
- Apply assembly lube to bearings, carefully set crank in place, fit caps in original orientation. Tighten caps in specified sequence and in incremental torque stages to final torque using OEM torque and angle procedure. Verify free rotation by hand between torque steps.

13) Check endplay and runout
- Measure crank thrust clearance (axial endplay) with dial indicator; compare to spec. Check crank runout if necessary.

14) Reassemble oil pump, pickup, oil pan, timing components, and accessories
- Replace seals and gaskets, torque fasteners to spec. Refill with fresh oil and filter. Prime oil system (turn engine with starter disabled or crank with primer until oil pressure builds).

15) Test and break-in
- Start engine, monitor oil pressure and listen for knocking. Run for a short period at varied loads per OEM break-in guidance, then change oil after initial run-in to remove particles. Recheck oil pressure and leaks.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Replacing worn/damaged bearings restores the correct journal-to-bearing clearance so that a stable hydrodynamic oil film forms under operating speed and load. This film prevents metal-to-metal contact, eliminates bearing fatigue and overheating, and restores oil pressure. If machining or replacing the crank removes scoring and restores roundness, it prevents localized high stresses and eliminates eccentric loading that caused accelerated wear. Proper torque and alignment ensure loads are transmitted evenly across bearing surfaces rather than concentrated at edges, preventing recurrence.

Key checks and decision points (concise)
- Use OEM specs for clearance, torque, and bearing selection. Plastigage is good for quick checks; micrometer/bore gauge is more accurate and required for machining decisions.
- If crank journals are scored beyond polishable limits or out-of-round, have crankshaft ground and fit undersize bearings or replace crank.
- If multiple mains show uneven clearances, check block deck/main cap alignment and consider line-bore/alignment from machine shop.

Final notes (concise)
- Follow OEM torque and clearance specs precisely. Cleanliness and correct oiling during reassembly are critical. After repair, change oil early to remove debris; monitor oil pressure and noise for recurrence.
rteeqp73

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- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection when using power tools.
- Work on a flat, stable surface with the machine secured, parking brake on, and battery disconnected to prevent accidental startup.
- Drain hydraulic and engine oil/gear oil into suitable containers before opening housings; avoid skin contact and dispose per local regulations.
- If lifting the machine or heavy assemblies, use rated jacks/stands or a hoist; never rely on jacks alone.

- Basic tools (what they are and how to use them)
- Combination wrench set (open + box end)
- Standard hand wrenches sized to nut/bolt heads. Use the box end for final turning to avoid rounding bolts; pull toward you, don’t push where possible.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions
- Useful for removing bolts quickly; choose correct socket size, use extensions to reach recessed fasteners. Apply steady force; use a breaker bar for stuck bolts.
- Breaker bar
- Long-handled non-ratcheting bar for high-torque loosening. Use in slow, controlled motion to avoid sudden breakage.
- Torque wrench (click or beam)
- Used to tighten fasteners to specified torque. Set the spec, tighten slowly until it clicks (click-style) or read value on beam. Critical for hub/shaft bolts to avoid over/under-tightening.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For prying small covers, removing clamps or light prying. Use proper size to avoid stripping heads.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose)
- Removing clips, holding small parts. Needle-nose for tight spots.
- Snap ring (circlip) pliers (internal & external)
- For removing/installing retaining rings on shafts or housings. Insert tips into ring holes and squeeze (internal) or spread (external) to remove.
- Hammer and brass/nylon drift (soft-faced hammer)
- For light persuasion without damaging metal. Use brass or nylon to avoid mushrooming steel; drifts to drive out pins or gently tap bearings.
- Punches and pin punches
- For driving out pins or aligning holes; match punch size to pin to avoid damage.
- Feeler gauges
- For measuring clearances (bearing play, endplay shims). Insert appropriate thicknesses to check clearances.
- Caliper (digital or vernier)
- For measuring shaft diameters, bearing inner/outer dims, and distances when selecting parts.
- Clean rags and solvent (degreaser)
- For cleaning parts and mating surfaces before reassembly.
- Drain pans and fluid-safe containers
- To catch fluids during disassembly.

- Intermediate/advanced (extra) tools required and why
- Bearing puller / gear puller
- Pulls bearings or gears off splined shafts without damaging the shaft. Required when bearings are pressed on tight.
- Bearing separator (two-jaw) and puller set
- Allows even gripping of bearing inner/outer race for safe extraction; reduces risk of race damage.
- Hydraulic or arbor press (1–10 ton depending on assembly)
- Presses new bearings and races onto shafts and into housings squarely. Also used to press out stubborn races. Required because hammering can damage bearings or shafts and leads to misalignment.
- Heat source (induction heater or propane torch) and heat-staking technique
- Heating the housing slightly expands it so tight-fit bearings slide in easier; used cautiously. Induction heaters are safer and more controlled than open flame.
- Impact wrench (pneumatic or electric)
- Speeds removal/installation of large bolts/nuts; helps on corroded or high-torque fasteners.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base
- For checking shaft runout and axial endplay after assembly; necessary to verify correct bearing preload or shim adjustments.
- Bearing/socket driver set or seal driver
- For installing new bearings/seals squarely without damaging lips or races.
- Threadlocker (medium strength) and anti-seize
- For fasteners that require retention or future disassembly—use per service manual.

- Why extra tools are required (summary)
- Bearings are interference fits: they must be removed and installed squarely with controlled axial/press forces. Pullers and presses provide that control. Heat reduces force needed and prevents damage. Dial indicators and torque wrenches verify correct clearances and torque that affect bearing life and gearbox performance.

- Common replacement parts and why they may be required
- Input shaft bearing(s) (typically tapered roller or deep groove)
- Replace if noisy, has play, rough rotation, metal debris in oil, or visual damage. Replace both inner and outer bearings if gearbox design uses matched set.
- Bearing races (cups)
- If race surfaces are pitted or scored, they must be replaced; new bearings on worn races will quickly fail.
- Oil seals / shaft seals
- Always replace when disassembling; old seals leak and contaminate bearings.
- Snap rings / circlips
- Replace if deformed; they hold bearings in position.
- Shims / spacers
- Required to set bearing preload/endplay; replace or reuse only if within spec—often better to replace with correct thicknesses.
- Input shaft (replace only if damaged)
- If splines are worn, shaft is scored, or journals are damaged, replace the shaft—damaged shafts will shorten bearing life and can cause transmission failure.
- Gaskets / O-rings / fasteners
- Replace torn gaskets or damaged fasteners; some bolts are torque-to-yield and should be replaced per manual.
- Gearbox oil / hydraulic fluid
- Replace with correct grade and amount per specs after reassembly.

- Symptoms that indicate bearing replacement is needed
- Growling/rumbling noise from transmission that changes with engine or travel speed.
- Excessive play in input shaft when checked by hand.
- Metal flakes or heavy contamination in gearbox oil.
- Overheating of gearbox or nearby housing.
- Visible scoring or pitting when inspected.

- Step-by-step procedure overview (for a beginner; follow service manual specs where available)
- Prepare: park, disconnect battery, drain gear/transmission oil, and clean around the area to prevent contamination.
- Access: remove belts, covers, linkage, and any components blocking access to the transmission/input housing. Label connectors and keep fasteners organized.
- Remove driven components: remove splined couplings, drive flanges, or pulleys attached to the input shaft. Use pullers gently to avoid shaft damage.
- Remove housing or cover: unbolt and remove the transmission cover or input housing to expose the bearing and shaft assembly. Support the housing to avoid dropping.
- Inspect and assess: visually inspect bearing, race, seal, and shaft for wear, pitting, discoloration, scoring, or play. Decide which parts to replace (bearings, races, seals, possibly shaft).
- Remove snap rings/retainers: use circlip pliers to remove any retaining rings holding bearings.
- Extract bearings and shaft
- If the shaft must come out, support the gearbox internals and remove in sequence. Use a bearing separator and puller to remove pressed-on bearings without damaging the shaft.
- If races are in the housing, use a drift or race puller and press to remove them. Mark positions and orientation for reassembly.
- Clean everything: degrease housings, shaft journals, and mating surfaces. Inspect shaft journal runout and straightness; measure with calipers and dial indicator.
- Install new races/bearings
- Warm housing gently (not above paint/temp limits) or cool bearings if using dry ice—common technique is heating the housing to ~80–100°C for easier fit (follow safe heating practices).
- Use bearing driver or proper-sized socket and press to seat bearings squarely. Press on the correct race (press on inner race for shaft installation, outer race for housing) to avoid bearing damage.
- Install new snap rings, seals, and any shims per manual. Use a seal driver to avoid lip damage.
- Reinstall shaft and check endplay/preload
- Reassemble shaft and gearbox components. Use feeler gauges or dial indicator to measure endplay and adjust shims until endplay/preload is within OEM specification. This step is critical—incorrect preload shortens bearing life.
- Torque fasteners to spec
- Tighten shaft nuts/bolts and housing bolts to factory torque values using a torque wrench.
- Fill with correct oil and check for leaks
- Refill with specified transmission/gear oil to the correct level. Run machine and circulate to see if leaks or noises remain.
- Final check
- After short test run and cool-down, re-check torque and oil level, and verify no abnormal noise or heat.

- Important notes for beginners
- Service manual is required for torque specs, bearing preload/endplay specs, shim sizes, and disassembly order. Obtain OEM manual or official service documentation for your exact model and serial number before starting.
- Bearing preload and endplay are not optional—incorrect setup is the number one cause of premature failure. If you’ve never set preload, arrange to have a shop or experienced mechanic perform that final step or supervise.
- If you do not own a press/pullers and the bearing is a tight interference fit, take the transmission or housing to a machine shop or shop with the right tools rather than risking damage.
- Replace bearings and seals as a set where practical—mixing new bearings with old races or seals risks early failure.
- Keep everything clean and avoid getting dirt into open housings. Even small contamination will cause bearing wear.

- Sourcing parts
- Order OEM Toyota (or original equipment supplier) bearings and seals when possible. Give engine/transmission model and serial numbers to parts supplier for correct parts.
- If OEM numbers aren’t available, measure bearing inner/outer diameters and width and match to standard bearing catalogs. Buy quality bearings from reputable brands (SKF, Timken, NTN, KOYO, etc.).
- Replace related items at the same time: seals, snap rings, oil, gaskets, and any worn fasteners.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Dispose of old oil, used bearings, and solvents per local hazardous-waste regulations.
- Clean tools and work area; inspect and store new parts in a dust-free place until installation.

- Final advice (direct)
- If you lack a press, puller, or experience setting bearing preload, have the gearbox/housing pressed and final-fitted at a professional shop. This avoids costly mistakes and safety hazards.

- Quick parts checklist to bring before starting
- Correct input shaft bearing(s) and races
- New oil seals and snap rings
- Replacement shims (or a shim kit) if required
- Gearbox oil of correct grade and quantity
- Gaskets, O-rings, and any recommended fasteners

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73