Short summary (function + typical faults)
- Function: the water pump is a centrifugal pump that circulates coolant through the engine block, head, heater core and radiator. It converts mechanical drive (shaft/pulley driven off the crank/timing train) into flow via an impeller; seals keep coolant in the housing and bearings keep the impeller concentric and free to spin.
- Common faults: bearing failure (noise, wobble), seal failure (external leaks), impeller corrosion/cavitation (loss of flow, overheating), clogged passages. Replacing the pump restores proper flow and sealing, eliminating leaks and stopping overheating or noise caused by worn bearings/impeller.

Ordered procedure with theory at each step
1) Safety & preparation
- Action: let engine cool, disconnect negative battery, place drip pan, have replacement pump, new gasket/seal, coolant, hand/full service tools, shop manual.
- Theory: preventing burns/shorts; correct parts and manual prevent incorrect torque/timing which can damage engine.

2) Drain cooling system
- Action: open radiator/draincock and drain coolant to below pump level; capture coolant for disposal or reuse if clean.
- Theory: prevents spillage when removing pump and reduces air entry; removing most coolant avoids contaminating work area.

3) Remove obstructing components
- Action: remove fan shroud, fan, drive belts (or serpentine), radiator hoses to/from pump, and any brackets that block pump access. If pump is driven by timing belt/gear, remove timing cover and follow timing-disengagement steps below.
- Theory: you must gain direct access to the pump housing and pulley; removing belts relieves drive load. If pump is part of timing system, you must preserve timing alignment to avoid valve/piston interference and to re-establish correct cam/crank phase on reassembly.

4) If pump is timing-driven: secure engine timing
- Action: align and lock timing marks; mark belt direction; if removing the timing belt, follow factory procedure for timing belt removal and re-installation (support cam/crank, note mark alignment).
- Theory: on timing-driven pumps, the pump location affects cam/crank phases. Incorrect reassembly causes improper valve timing and possible catastrophic engine damage.

5) Inspect for related faults before removal
- Action: check pump pulley for play/noise, check housing for corrosion/leak streaks, inspect coolant for oil (head gasket issue), inspect radiator/thermostat.
- Theory: replacing pump fixes pump-related faults but not upstream causes (e.g., head gasket or contaminated coolant). Confirming related faults avoids repeat failure.

6) Remove old pump
- Action: unbolt pump housing and remove; save or discard old gasket; remove any dowels; inspect impeller and shaft condition.
- Theory: visual/physical inspection confirms failure mode (worn bearing = shaft play; seal leak = coolant at shaft; impeller damage = loss of flow). This confirms that replacement addresses the observed symptom.

7) Clean mating surfaces & check coolant passages
- Action: clean block mating surface, remove old gasket material, inspect threads/dowel holes, check nearest coolant passages for corrosion/debris.
- Theory: proper sealing requires clean, flat surface; debris can cause leaks or reduced flow.

8) Prepare and install new pump
- Action: fit new gasket/seal (use manufacturer-specified gasket sealant only if required), position pump, hand-start bolts, torque to factory specs in a crisscross pattern. Reinstall any pulleys, belts, fan, and brackets in reverse order. If timing-driven, reinstall timing belt/chain exactly to timing marks and tension per spec.
- Theory: correct torque and sequence compress gasket evenly to form a leak-free seal. Proper belt/chain tension preserves timing and pump alignment, ensuring the impeller is driven at the correct speed for designed flow.

9) Replace consumables and inspect accessory components (recommended)
- Action: replace thermostat, upper/lower hoses, belt if worn, and any seals/ o-rings disturbed.
- Theory: worn hoses/thermostat or a tired belt will cause recurrent failure or mask results of pump replacement. Replacing them reduces likelihood of repeat downtime.

10) Refill coolant and bleed air
- Action: refill with recommended coolant mixture; follow bleed procedure (engine at idle with heater on, open bleeder valve if present, run until thermostat opens and air exits, top up).
- Theory: air pockets drastically reduce pump effectiveness and cause local overheating. Proper bleeding restores continuous coolant column for efficient circulation.

11) Start-up checks and test run
- Action: run engine to operating temperature, watch temperature gauge, check for external leaks at pump/hose connections, listen for abnormal noises, re-torque bolts after heat cycle if recommended.
- Theory: running under load verifies flow, seal integrity and absence of bearing noise; re-torque accounts for gasket compression on first heat cycles.

12) Verify performance under load
- Action: perform final checks with load (raise hydraulic systems or drive machine) to ensure stable operating temperature; re-check coolant level after cool-down.
- Theory: full-load checks verify pump delivers designed flow under actual operating conditions and that no hidden leaks or internal flow restrictions remain.

How the repair fixes specific faults (concise)
- Bearing wear/noise: new bearings eliminate shaft play and noise; restores concentric impeller rotation, preventing vibration and uneven flow.
- Seal leaks: replacing the mechanical seal/gasket stops external coolant loss and prevents air ingestion.
- Impeller damage/corrosion: a new impeller restores hydraulic efficiency (flow rate and pressure), improving coolant circulation and preventing hotspots/overheating.
- Cavitation/erosion from poor coolant: replacing pump and flushing the system removes cavitation sources; proper coolant and correct belt speed ensure the pump runs in its intended operating envelope.

Final checks & cautions
- Use factory torque specs and timing procedures—do not improvise on timing-driven pumps.
- Always bleed air thoroughly; trapped air causes localized overheating.
- If coolant shows oil contamination or continuous overheating persists after pump replacement, investigate head gasket or internal engine faults—pump replacement alone won’t fix those.

That is the ordered procedure with the underlying theory and explanation of why the repair corrects the faults.
rteeqp73

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