Brief ordered procedure with the theory behind each step. Follow factory service manual for model-specific fluid type, capacities, filter part numbers and torque values.

1) Safety & preparation
- Action: Park on level ground, engage parking brake, shut off engine, cool system, wear gloves/eye protection, block machine, remove ignition key.
- Theory: Prevents movement, hot-fluid burns, and injury. A cool system avoids pressurized hot fluid spray when opening components.

2) Relieve hydraulic/transmission pressure
- Action: Run machine at idle briefly and shift through gears per manual to equalize pressure, then shut engine off. Open any specified pressure-relief ports slowly per manual.
- Theory: Hydraulic systems retain pressure; relieving it prevents high-pressure fluid spray when loosening lines, housings or filter cover.

3) Containment & cleanliness
- Action: Place drip pans, clean area around filter housing and fill/vent ports with lint-free rags; cap or plug open lines immediately when removed.
- Theory: Contamination introduced during the job damages the transmission. Keeping everything clean maintains filtration effectiveness and avoids particulate ingress.

4) Drain fluid (if required)
- Action: Drain fluid to recommended level or into clean container if the replacement involves drop-in filter change. For full fluid change, drain sump and remove pan per manual.
- Theory: Draining reduces fluid loss when you open filter housing and removes the worst of the contamination. If the filter is internal/in-tank, sump removal exposes the element.

5) Remove filter element or filter assembly
- Action: Unbolt/remove filter cover or pan, extract filter element, inspect housing and pan magnet(s) for metal particles. Replace gasket or O-rings.
- Theory: The filter traps abrasive particles. Inspecting trapped debris and magnets gives diagnostic information about internal wear (e.g., clutch/gear damage). Removing old seals prevents leaks and air ingress when reassembled.

6) Inspect internal components
- Action: Visually inspect filter bore, housing, relief/bypass valve, pickup screen, magnets, and area for metal flakes or scoring. Clean housing and pickup with lint-free cloth.
- Theory: The pickup screen and bypass valve ensure continuous flow; damage or debris can restrict flow or allow unfiltered oil past the filter. Detecting metal indicates internal wear that may need more repair.

7) Install new filter element and seals
- Action: Lightly coat new O-rings/gaskets with clean transmission fluid, install filter element correctly oriented, reinstall cover/pan and torque fasteners to spec.
- Theory: Pre-lubricating seals prevents pinching and ensures a proper seal. Correct element orientation and torque maintain sealing and avoid bypassing unfiltered fluid.

8) Refill fluid and prime system
- Action: Refill with manufacturer-specified fluid to the recommended fill level. Prime pump if required (turn engine with starter only per manual or use prime procedure) so the pump isn’t run dry.
- Theory: Fresh, correct fluid restores viscosity and additive chemistry needed for friction control and cooling. Priming avoids cavitation from running an empty pump, which causes damage and false low-pressure symptoms.

9) Bleed air and check for leaks
- Action: Start engine, cycle through travel and gear ranges per manual to circulate fluid and vent air. Inspect for leaks at filter, seals and lines. Recheck fluid level after warm-up/settling and top to correct level.
- Theory: Air in hydraulic/transmission circuits causes compressibility, spongy control, reduced pressure, and erratic shifting. Proper bleeding restores incompressible fluid column and stable pressures. Rechecking level after warm-up accounts for thermal expansion and trapped air expulsion.

10) Functional test & monitoring
- Action: Operate the machine under light load, check shift timing/quality, temperatures, noises, and re-inspect for leaks. After a few hours of operation recheck fluid level and pan/magnets for new debris.
- Theory: Proper flow and pressure should restore normal shifting, torque transfer, and cooling. Early re-inspection catches any unexpected wear or remaining contamination before it becomes a major failure.

How the repair fixes the fault (theory)
- What goes wrong: A clogged or degraded transmission filter reduces or chokes oil flow, allows abrasive particles to circulate, and can lead to pressure drops, cavitation, excessive heat, clutch/valve wear, slipping, delayed or harsh shifts, and internal damage. Some systems have bypass valves; if the filter clogs the bypass may open and let unfiltered oil circulate, accelerating wear.
- How replacement fixes it: A new filter restores specified flow resistance and filtration efficiency so pressure and flow to pumps, control valves and clutches return to design values. Removing trapped contaminants prevents further abrasive wear and the new seals stop leaks/air ingress. Refilling with clean fluid restores fluid properties (viscosity, friction modifiers) needed for proper clutch engagement and cooling.
- Expected outcomes: Restored hydraulic pressure and flow, cooler operation, correct shift timing and firmness, reduced noise and wear. If internal wear already exists (metal in pan/magnet, scored parts), filter replacement may improve symptoms but not fully restore original performance — further repair could be required.

Key cautions & notes (concise)
- Use only Toyota-recommended transmission/hydraulic fluid and filter part numbers.
- Always follow torque specs and sequences from the service manual.
- Maintain absolute cleanliness; contamination during service is a common cause of failures.
- Inspect metal debris quantity/type — heavy metal indicates serious internal damage needing further teardown.
- Proper priming and bleeding are as important as the filter change for restoring system performance.

Done.
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Exhaust repair without welding Repair of a broken exhaust done on a 2000 Ford F150.

BUYING ANOTHER JUNK TOYOTA SKID STEER OFF MARKETPLACE IN THIS VIDEO WE BUY A 1993 TOYOTA SDK 7 SKIDSTEER THAT HAS BEEN SITTING FOR YEARS DUE TO IT CATCHING ON ...

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Goal: clear, step‑by‑step beginner’s guide to servicing the crankcase “blow‑by” / breather tube system on Toyota 4SDK series skid‑steer diesel engines (4SDK3, 4SDK4, 4SDK5, 4SDK6, 4SDK8, 4SDK10). This covers what each component is and does, why the job is needed, how to inspect/clean/replace the blow‑by tube and related parts, safety notes, common failure modes, and simple tests to confirm the repair. Follow published Toyota service manual torque and part numbers where possible — I give general procedures and safety guidance but not absolute torque values.

Summary of theory (why this matters)
- “Blow‑by” is combustion gases that leak past piston rings into the crankcase. The engine needs a way to vent those gases without dumping raw oil/soot into the intake.
- The crankcase ventilation system (breather system) collects those gases and routes them through a tube, separator/PCV device and sometimes back to the intake to be burned (or to atmosphere, depending on design).
- If the blow‑by tube or separator clogs, crankcase pressure rises. High crankcase pressure forces oil out seals and gaskets, contaminates the intake, causes smoke, poor running, and accelerated seal/piston wear. Repair clears or replaces clogged tubes, cleans separators, restores proper ventilation and lowers crankcase pressure.

Analogy: think of the crankcase like your house attic. The blow‑by tube is the attic vent — if the vent is clogged, pressure/damp air builds up, causing leaks and rot; clear the vent and the attic breathes again.

Components and what each does (detailed)
- Crankcase: the lower engine housing that contains the crankshaft and collects oil and blow‑by gases.
- Crankcase ventilation port(s): holes in the valve cover or engine block where crankcase gases are routed out.
- Valve cover breather/grommet: a rubber fitting in the valve cover that accepts the breather tube or PCV valve. Keeps a sealed connection.
- Blow‑by tube (breather hose): a hose (rubber or rubber‑reinforced) that routes crankcase gases to the oil separator/PCV or intake. It can be a straight hose or a formed hard tube.
- Oil separator / breather housing: a small chamber that lets oil droplets condense and return to the crankcase; gases pass through to the intake/PCV. Some designs integrate a simple mesh baffle or replaceable cartridge.
- PCV valve (if present): one‑way valve that meters crankcase gas flow back into the intake. Prevents intake backflow into the crankcase.
- Hose clamps: secure the tube to the fittings.
- Intake/turbo inlet connection: end point where the vented gases re‑enter the engine to be burned.
- Gaskets, seals, and mounting hardware: any rubber grommets, O‑rings or clamps needed to keep the system sealed.

What can go wrong
- Tube collapse, cracks, or splits from age/heat — causes vacuum/boost leaks or oil leaks.
- Blockage from sludge, varnish, carbon or metal shavings — causes high crankcase pressure, oil leaks, smoking.
- Grommet failure or loose clamp — leaks air or oil.
- PCV valve stuck closed or stuck open — causes overpressure or excessive vacuum in crankcase.
- Separator full of oil/sludge or degraded baffles — cannot separate oil, sends oil to intake.
- Improper reassembly causes vacuum leaks and poor running.

Tools/parts you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: screwdrivers (flat, Phillips), pliers, socket set with ratchet and extensions, adjustable wrench.
- Hose clamp pliers or nut driver for clamps.
- Small wire brush, bottle brush or pipe cleaner sized to the tube.
- Parts cleaner / solvent (carb cleaner suitable for diesel engines) and rags.
- Compressed air (low pressure; <30 psi) optional for drying/clearing—use with caution.
- Replacement blow‑by hose (OEM spec or equivalent oil/heat‑resistant hose), replacement grommet(s), new clamps; PCV valve/separator cartridge if applicable.
- Safety: eye protection, nitrile gloves, drip pan, rags for oil.

Safety first
- Work on a cool engine whenever possible. If you must work warm, be careful of hot surfaces.
- Disconnect battery when removing components near electrical parts.
- Solvent and diesel residues are flammable — avoid sparks/open flames and ventilate well.
- Do not direct high‑pressure compressed air into the crankcase or into a removed PCV hole with people nearby; use low pressure to blow debris out after removing the hose.
- Contain and properly dispose of oily waste.

Diagnosis — when to service the blow‑by tube
Symptoms indicating service:
- Oil puddles or heavy oil at the breather tube or valve cover.
- Blue or gray exhaust or intake smoke at idle, or excessive smoke on acceleration.
- Oil in the intake manifold or turbo inlet (if equipped).
- Oil leaking from seals, pushrod tubes or valve cover.
- High or unstable oil consumption.
- Hissing or unusual pressure noises from the valve cover area.

Quick pressure check (basic): remove oil filler cap while engine idling (warm). If you feel strong pressure or a blast of air, the ventilation is restricted. (Do this carefully and briefly.)

Step‑by‑step procedure to inspect, clean or replace blow‑by tube and related parts
(I) Preparation
1. Park on level ground, set parking brake, block wheels. Let engine cool to a safe working temperature or wear heat protection.
2. Disconnect battery negative if you’ll be working near wiring or will be removing major covers.
3. Locate components: follow the hose from the valve cover breather to the oil separator/PCV and then to the intake/turbo inlet. On the 4SDK series, the breather usually connects to a metal or rubber tube at the valve cover leading to a small separator or to the intake manifold/turbo area.

(II) Remove and inspect
4. Place a drip pan under the area to catch oil.
5. Loosen hose clamps at both ends of the blow‑by tube. If clamps are corroded, cut them off and replace.
6. Carefully pull the blow‑by hose off the fittings. If stuck, use a twisting motion and gentle pry — avoid tearing the valve cover grommet.
7. Inspect the hose interior and both fittings:
- Look for thick black sludge, varnish, or metal filings.
- Squeeze the hose to see if it is soft, hardened, cracked, or collapsed.
- Inspect grommet for cracks or hardening.
- Inspect separator/PCV inlet and outlet for oil pooling or clogging.
8. Remove the oil separator or PCV unit (if it’s removable) and inspect its internals — many have baffles/mesh or a replaceable cartridge.

(III) Clean vs replace decision
9. Replace the hose if:
- It is cracked, collapsed, hard, or visibly degraded.
- Internal bore is heavily coked and cleaning won’t reliably restore flow.
10. Cleanable items: lightly soiled hoses and separators can be cleaned with solvent and a brush. Replace one‑way PCV valve if sticky or not seating.

(IV) Cleaning method (safe approach)
11. Use solvent (parts/carbon cleaner) and a brush: push the bottle brush through the hose and twist while applying solvent until sludge loosens. Use rags to wipe out residue.
12. For the separator: spray solvent into the chamber, brush the baffle, and drain into pan. Replace separator if heavily contaminated.
13. Use low‑pressure compressed air (<30 psi) to blow residual solvent and dry the hose/fittings — point the open end toward a rag or drain pan, not toward yourself.
14. Dry thoroughly. Never use high pressure that can push debris into the engine or damage components.

(V) Replace parts
15. Install new grommets and hose clamps. Ensure the replacement hose is correctly sized (ID/OD) and rated for oil/heat exposure.
16. Route the hose exactly as the original to avoid kinks or contact with hot surfaces.
17. Secure clamps snugly — firm, but do not over‑tighten clamp to crush hose or deform fitting. If replacing fasteners or torque values: refer to the service manual for specs.

(VI) Reassembly and testing
18. Reinstall any covers and reconnect battery.
19. Start engine and let it idle. Observe the breather tube area for leaks, check for hissing, and watch for smoke.
20. Recheck hose connections after a short run and again after a few hours of operation. Look for oil leaks at the grommets and clamps.
21. Re‑test oil filler cap pressure: remove cap briefly (as in diagnosis) — there should be minimal pressure/vacuum; any strong positive pressure suggests remaining restriction.

Troubleshooting and what to check if problems persist
- If oil continues to be forced out or smoke persists after cleaning/replacement:
- PCV valve may be stuck closed (replace).
- Separator may be saturated with oil (replace).
- Excessive blow‑by due to piston ring wear or turbo seal failure — this requires engine diagnostics/compression or leak‑down test.
- If you hear hissing and engine idles poorly after work, you may have a vacuum/boost leak at the hose connections or a torn hose; check all clamps/grommets.
- If you find metal filings inside the separator/hose, inspect engine internals — severe wear.
- If excessive oil is returned to intake, consider installing a replacement separator with better baffling or an external oil catch can temporarily for diagnosis.

Simple functional tests after repair
- Visual: No oil weeping at fittings; valve cover area dry.
- Idle test: steady idle, no white/blue smoke from intake or exhaust.
- Cap test: remove oil filler cap momentarily — only a light breath should be felt, not a blast.
- Road/work test: under load, engine should not emit excessive smoke and oil consumption should normalize over a few tanks if prior problem was restricted breather.

Maintenance tips to prevent recurrence
- Replace hose/grommets every few years or at first sign of hardening.
- Change oil and filter at proper intervals — cleaner oil produces less sludge.
- Periodically inspect separator and blow‑by hose for sludge build‑up.
- If the machine works in dusty/dirty environments, inspect more often.

Final notes (practical cautions)
- If cleaning removes only surface deposits but the engine still blows oil or smokes, the root cause may be mechanical (rings, turbo seals). This requires deeper mechanical diagnosis.
- When in doubt about torque specs, internal diagnostics (compression/leak down), or ordering parts, refer to the Toyota skid‑steer service manual or consult a dealership/experienced diesel mechanic.

That’s the full practical overview — diagnosis, component descriptions, safe cleaning and replacement steps, tests, failure modes, and maintenance. Follow safe practices, use correct OEM parts where possible, and consult the official service manual for torque specs and model‑specific details.
rteeqp73