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ZF automatic transmission repair manual

Tools & consumables
- Floor jack, jack stands (rated), wheel chocks
- Lug wrench / impact wrench
- Metric/SAE socket set, ratchet, extensions; hex/Allen/Torx bits as required
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lb or 0–200 Nm range)
- Flat screwdriver, small pick, needle-nose pliers
- C-clamp or dedicated brake caliper piston tool (piston retractor/spreader)
- If caliper piston screws in (some vehicles): threaded piston tool or appropriate adapter
- If vehicle has electronic parking brake (EPB): diagnostic/service tool or manufacturer service-mode tool
- Wire or bungee to hang caliper
- Wire brush, brake cleaner, rags
- Brake grease/anti-seize (brake-specific)
- New brake pads; pad hardware kit (shims, clips, pins); pad wear sensor if fitted
- Replacement rotors if worn beyond spec
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves, dust mask (if dusty)
- Container for used pads/cleaning waste

Safety precautions (must do)
- Work on a level surface, set the mechanical parking brake if available, chock free wheels.
- With an automatic transmission: place transmission in PARK and remove key. Do NOT rely on the parking pawl alone when jacking — chock wheels and use jack stands.
- Use jack stands; never work supported only by a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Avoid inhaling brake dust (use a dust mask; wet-clean or use brake cleaner — don’t blow dust).
- If brake fluid overflows while compressing pistons, stop and remove fluid from master cylinder to avoid paint damage; do not allow brake fluid on painted surfaces.
- If EPB equipped, engage service mode before removing caliper/pads.

Replacement parts required (typical)
- Brake pads (front and/or rear as needed)
- Pad hardware kit (recommended every pad change): anti-rattle clips, shims, guide pins/boots if corroded
- Pad wear sensor if present and damaged
- Rotors if runout, thickness or damage exceeds spec
- Brake fluid if contamination or during fluid changes

Step-by-step procedure
1) Prep
- Park on level ground. Set PARK, remove key, chock wheels front and rear on the opposite axle.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly while vehicle is on ground.

2) Lift and secure
- Jack the vehicle at manufacturer jacking point, support on jack stands. Remove wheel.

3) Disable parking brake if rear or EPB affects caliper
- If EPB: put caliper in service mode using the dealer or aftermarket scan tool or follow manufacturer’s manual service-mode procedure. Failure to do this can damage the electronic caliper on piston retraction.
- If mechanical parking brake integrated into caliper: follow service manual for manual release.

4) Access caliper and pads
- Inspect area for obvious damage, fluid leaks, rotor condition.
- Remove caliper guide/slide bolts (usually two). Use correct socket or hex bit. Support caliper with wire or bungee — do NOT hang it from the brake hose.

5) Remove old pads and hardware
- Remove pads and any retained clips/shims. Note pad orientation and any wear sensors.
- Use a pick/flat screwdriver to remove stubborn clips. Clean bracket and contact surfaces with wire brush and brake cleaner.

6) Inspect rotor and caliper
- Measure rotor thickness and check for scoring/runout. Replace rotor if out of spec or badly scored.
- Inspect caliper piston and rubber boot for leaks/damage. Inspect slide pins for corrosion; replace or clean and lubricate.

7) Retract caliper piston
- If a simple floating caliper: use a C-clamp or piston spreader. Place one side of clamp on the back of the caliper, the other on the old pad or piston face and slowly tighten to push piston fully in. Ensure piston pushes straight — if multiple pistons press evenly.
- If piston must be screwed in (common on some European cars): use the threaded piston tool/adapter. Engage tool in piston slots and rotate to screw piston into caliper (don’t force or strip).
- If EPB caliper: retract pistons only after putting caliper in service mode with diagnostic tool; then use piston tool to retract.

How the tools are used:
- C-clamp: place the stationary jaw against the back of the caliper and the moving jaw against the old pad/piston face. Tighten slowly until piston bottoms out. Watch master cylinder fluid level to avoid overflow.
- Piston retractor (threaded): select the adapter to match piston recess, seat into piston face, and turn the handle to rotate piston clockwise (usually) while pushing inward; this both rotates and retracts for screw-in pistons.
- Disc brake spreader: set jaws on caliper ears and turn screw to compress piston smoothly.

8) Install new pads & hardware
- Apply thin film of brake grease to pad contact points and slide pin surfaces (not the friction surface). Install new anti-rattle clips and shims as required.
- Fit new pads in the same orientation as removed. If wear sensor present, install new sensor or refit sensor lead to new pad as required.

9) Refit caliper and torque bolts
- Reposition caliper over pads/rotor. Reinstall and properly torque guide bolts to manufacturer spec. Torque wrench is mandatory.
- Replace any seized or damaged bolts — common pitfall is rounding off fasteners.

10) Reinstall wheel and lower
- Refit wheel; tighten lug nuts hand tight. Lower vehicle off jack stands, torque lug nuts to manufacturer spec in star pattern.

11) Final checks & pedal
- With engine off, slowly pump brake pedal until it firms up and pads seat against rotors (may take several pumps).
- Check master cylinder fluid level; top up with correct DOT fluid if needed. Clean any spilled fluid.
- Start engine, cycle brakes again, check for leaks and that brake warning light/ABS/EPB light are off. If EPB was in service mode, return to normal operation via diagnostic tool.

12) Bedding-in new pads
- Perform a bedding procedure: 8–12 moderate stops from about 35–45 mph down to 5–10 mph, using progressive braking (do not lock wheels). Allow cooling between repeated hard stops. Follow pad manufacturer’s specific bed-in instructions.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Relying on transmission PARK instead of chocks and jack stands — risk of vehicle moving.
- Not disabling EPB/service mode — may strip piston or damage motor.
- Forcing a screw-in piston with a C-clamp (instead of rotating tool) — can damage piston threads.
- Contaminating pads with grease or brake fluid — results in noise and loss of braking.
- Reusing worn or corroded guide pins/boots/hardware — leads to uneven pad wear and sticking.
- Overfilling master cylinder when compressing pistons — causes fluid overflow and paint damage.
- Not torquing bolts and lug nuts to spec — safety hazard.
- Not supporting caliper — hanging from hose can damage hose.
- Not replacing rotors that are out of spec — causes vibration and short pad life.

When to replace rotors and hardware
- Replace rotors if thickness < minimum spec, severe scoring, or excessive runout.
- Replace slide pins, boots, anti-rattle clips, and pad sensors if corroded or damaged. Best practice: replace hardware with every other pad change or when worn.

Final notes
- Always follow vehicle-specific service manual for torque specs, EPB procedures, and piston types.
- If ABS warning, persistent pedal softness, or bleeding required, perform a proper brake bleed and/or scan-tool guided ABS bleed.

Done.
rteeqp73

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