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Jeep Grand Cherokee 1999-2004 WJ WG Factory Workshop Service Repair Manual download

1) Preparation and theory summary (why you do things in this order)
- Goal of alignment: put each wheel’s plane and steering axis where the factory intended so the vehicle tracks straight, steers predictably and tires wear evenly. Primary angles: camber (wheel tilt in/out), caster (steering axis tilt fore/aft), toe (wheels pointing in/out), and thrust angle/steering-centre (rear axle alignment relative to centerline).
- Why order matters: camber and caster affect where the wheel “points” as the suspension moves and therefore change toe if you alter them afterward. So adjust camber/caster first, then toe, then thrust/steering wheel centering, and re‑check toe.
- How adjustments fix faults in principle: adjusting a control arm, eccentric or shim changes the suspension pivot geometry so the wheel rests at the correct angle. Replacing worn parts (bushings, ball joints, tie rods) restores fixed pivot locations so adjustments remain stable. Moving tie rods changes effective track width between steering tie-rod ends and therefore toe.

2) Pre-checks (do these before any measurements)
- Measure and set tire pressures to spec and ensure matching wear/size. Unequal pressure or mismatched tires falsify alignment readings.
- Check ride height and load: alignment is done at static ride height. If springs/sag differ side-to-side, correct them first.
- Inspect suspension and steering for play/wear: wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, swaybar links, track/leaf/other axle locate components. Any loose/worn joint will let geometry move under load and alignment won’t hold.
- Inspect for bent components (control arms, knuckles, axle) and evidence of impact damage. A bent arm must be replaced — you can’t align a bent part into spec.
- Center steering wheel and note steering wheel position.

Theory: worn/bent parts allow uncontrolled movement or change the pivot points. Replacing them restores the fixed geometry that the alignment adjustments rely on.

3) Mount vehicle and set up measurement system
- Put vehicle on alignment rack or level floor with measuring heads. Make sure vehicle is at normal ride height (with any load it would normally carry).
- Attach sensors and input centreline/wheel base/track values per the alignment machine.
- Lock steering wheel straight and set steering column preload as instructed by machine.

Theory: accurate, repeatable reference points and ride height are needed because camber/caster depend on knuckle position relative to chassis.

4) Initial measurement
- Measure and record current camber, caster, toe (front and rear), SAI/included angle and thrust angle.
- Note any values out of spec and whether they are caused by reversible adjustments or by worn/bent components.

Theory: the baseline identifies which angles need changing. Some angles may be non‑adjustable on the WJ and require parts change or shims.

5) Adjust camber and caster (front) — do both together where possible
- On a WJ front independent suspension you normally adjust camber/caster using the upper control arm eccentric bolts or adjustable upper arm position (or cam washers/bushings if fitted). Rotate the eccentric or move the arm to change the wheel tilt (camber) and the steering axis tilt (caster).
- Make small adjustments, then re-measure. Camber and caster influence each other: changing camber can move the steering axis and alter caster and vice versa.
- If camber/caster cannot be brought into range because of worn bushings, bent arms or a damaged strut top, replace the offending part. Some rear/front castor may require shims or different control arm mounting positions.

Theory: camber is the inward/outward tilt of the wheel; caster is the fore/aft tilt of the steering axis. Altering the upper arm mounting position changes the knuckle’s rotational pivot relative to the chassis, which changes both angles. Correct camber reduces edge wear; correct caster stabilizes steering, returns the wheel to center, and provides camber gain through suspension travel.

6) Adjust toe (front)
- After camber and caster are within tolerance, adjust front toe using the tie rod ends. Turn both tie rods equally to change toe while keeping the steering wheel centered as much as possible.
- Set toe to the factory specification (total toe). Re-check after tightening jam nuts.
- If you can’t center the steering wheel after toe adjustment, adjust tie rods slightly and, if necessary, use the steering column splines or a drag link/steering coupler adjustment to center the wheel.

Theory: toe is the angle the wheels point relative to centerline. Turning the tie rods changes the distance between the steering knuckles, which changes toe. Toe is the angle with the largest immediate effect on tire wear and straight-line stability.

7) Rear alignment / thrust angle
- Measure rear toe/camber and thrust angle (the rear axle’s centreline relative to the chassis centreline).
- On a WJ with a solid rear axle/locating link system you typically adjust thrust angle and rear toe via adjustable rear toe links or the track bar/panhard adjustments (or shims where provided). Move the axle laterally or change toe links until the thrust angle is within spec and the rear toe is set.
- If rear camber isn’t adjustable, correct uneven ride height or replace worn/leaking springs or worn control arms. If the rear axle is bent or a link is damaged, replace.

Theory: thrust angle dictates whether the rear axle pushes the vehicle off the chassis centerline. If thrust is off, the vehicle will dog-track (steer slightly to one side) and the steering wheel will not be centered even with front toe correct. Adjusting toe links or lateral locating device repositions the axle under the chassis to correct thrust.

8) Steering wheel centering and final checks
- With front and rear set, center the steering wheel precisely. If centering requires a directional mismatch between left and right tie rod thread turns, recheck toe and repeat small adjustments.
- Tighten all alignment-related fasteners to torque specs.
- Road test the vehicle, checking for pull, return-to-center and steering feel. After road test, re-measure the alignment to confirm nothing shifted.
- Check that toe is still correct — toe can change most easily during test drives if anything is loose.

Theory: centering the steering wheel ties the steering axis and tie rod geometry into a neutral position. Torqueing hardware clamps the adjusted pivot positions so geometry doesn’t creep.

9) How specific repairs correct common faults (quick mapping)
- Worn tie rod ends: symptoms — wandering, uneven toe, looseness. Repair = replace tie rod ends; effect = restores fixed tie-rod length and steering geometry so toe adjustment will hold.
- Worn control arm bushings or ball joints: symptoms — camber/caster drift, wander, clunking. Repair = replace bushings/arms/ball joints; effect = restores original pivot points; after replacement you can set camber/caster to spec.
- Bent control arm/knuckle: symptoms — cannot reach camber/caster specs, asymmetrical measurements. Repair = replace part; effect = returns mounting geometry so adjustments bring wheel into spec.
- Damaged track bar/locating links or worn rear bushings: symptoms — thrust angle off, rear steer, rear axle offset. Repair = replace or adjust links/shims; effect = recenters axle under body so thrust angle is correct.
- Unequal ride height (sagging spring): symptoms — persistent camber/caster difference or one-side tire wear. Repair = replace spring/shock; effect = restores suspension geometry at correct ride height and allows alignment to be set correctly.

10) Final notes and cautions
- Always use factory specifications for angles and torque values — exact numbers matter.
- Small changes can have amplified effects: make small incremental adjustments and re-measure.
- Alignment cannot cure worn or bent parts — it only sets geometry when mechanical pivots are correct and stable.
- After any component replacement, always re-check alignment.

Done.
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