- Safety first (brief)
- Park on a flat, level surface, engage parking brake, chock opposite wheels.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe boots.
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a hydraulic jack — always use rated jack stands.

- Tools (each tool named, short description, and how to use it)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: low-profile jack that raises the truck by pumping its handle.
- How to use: place under recommended lift point (frame or axle), pump until wheel clears ground. Hold weight with jack stands before working under vehicle.
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Description: adjustable height supports with locking pins or collars.
- How to use: position under solid frame or axle, lower the truck onto stands, verify stability before working.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: wedges placed behind wheels to prevent roll.
- How to use: place on both sides of at least one wheel (opposite end from work).
- Socket set (metric and imperial) with ratchet
- Description: assortment of sockets, extension bars, and a 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet.
- How to use: select correct socket size, attach to ratchet/extension, fit over nut/bolt and turn. Use extension for hard-to-reach fasteners.
- Breaker bar
- Description: long non-ratcheting bar for extra leverage.
- How to use: fit socket, apply steady force to break loose seized bolts. Don’t use sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Description: wrench that clicks at a preset torque to ensure correct tightness.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten bolt until wrench clicks; don’t use torque wrench for breaking loose bolts.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Description: chemical that soaks into corroded threads to free them.
- How to use: spray on rusted bolts, leave 10–30 minutes, repeat as needed.
- Hammer and drift/punch
- Description: hammer for tapping, punch/drift for driving out pins or bolts.
- How to use: strike drift with hammer to push stuck bolts or bushings; protect surfaces with a block of wood if needed.
- Pry bar
- Description: long lever used to move or align components.
- How to use: wedge between components and apply steady leverage to separate shock eye from mount or align holes.
- Wire brush and rust remover
- Description: brushes rust and dirt from brackets and threads.
- How to use: clean mating surfaces and threads before reassembly for better fit and corrosion inspection.
- Bench vise or hydraulic press (or large C-clamp as alternative)
- Description: presses used to remove/install pressed-in bushings.
- How to use: mount component and press bushing out and in; if using C-clamp, use appropriate sized sockets as bearing surfaces and press slowly.
- Impact wrench (optional, electric or air)
- Description: high-torque tool that delivers rapid impacts to loosen/tighten bolts.
- How to use: fit correct socket, apply to nut/bolt; use minimally to avoid over-torquing. Good for stubborn bolts but still use torque wrench for final torque.
- Hacksaw or angle grinder (optional, for cutting seized bolts)
- Description: cutting tools to remove bolts that cannot be extracted.
- How to use: cut bolt head or shear the bolt carefully; clean up and re-tap threads or use new hardware as required.
- Needle-nose pliers, adjustable spanner, large adjustable wrench
- Description: for removing clips, holding nuts, and one-off adjustments.
- How to use: hold or turn fasteners and small parts.
- Thread locker (medium strength) and anti-seize compound
- Description: thread locker prevents fasteners loosening; anti-seize prevents galling/corrosion.
- How to use: apply small amount per product directions to threads during reassembly (use anti-seize on bolts going into aluminum or corroded areas; use thread locker where manufacturer's guidance applies).
- Replacement parts and consumables (briefly described)
- Replacement shock absorbers (OEM or aftermarket)
- How to choose: match part to Hino model/axle and ordering data; replace left and right as pair for balanced handling.
- Rubber bushings/isolation mounts
- How to use: pressed or slipped into shock eyes or brackets to eliminate metal-on-metal movement.
- Mounting bolts, nuts, washers, lock washers or new studs
- Why new: often stretched/corroded; use new grade-matched hardware for safety.
- Bracket or mount assemblies
- Why new: cracked or heavily corroded brackets must be replaced or professionally welded.

- Preparation steps
- Park, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting if wheel removal required.
- Raise truck at recommended lift points and support on rated jack stands.
- Remove wheel(s) if access improved or if shocks attach behind wheel hub.

- Inspection before removal
- Visually inspect shock body for oil leaks, dents, or broken rod boots — leaking shock = replace shock.
- Check upper and lower mounting points for worn or missing rubber bushings, elongated bolt holes, cracked brackets, or rust-through.
- Wiggle shock by hand — excessive play means bushing/wear or shock failure.

- Removing old shock and mount components
- Spray penetrating oil generously on upper and lower bolts, let soak 10–30 minutes; reapply if needed.
- Support the axle or body near the shock with jack or stand so the suspension is slightly unloaded (prevents sudden drop).
- Use socket/ratchet or impact wrench to remove lower bolt first (or whichever is easier); hold nut with wrench or pliers on the opposite side.
- Remove upper bolt or nut; keep control of shock as it becomes free — pry bar may help separate eye from mount.
- If bolts are seized, use breaker bar for torque; if they shear, cut head with grinder and remove remaining shaft with punch/drift or extract and replace hardware.
- If bushings are pressed in:
- Use bench vise or hydraulic press to push bushing out, or
- Use large socket/C-clamp method: place socket against bushing and a spacer behind bracket, slowly tighten clamp to press bushing out.
- Clean mating surfaces and bracket with wire brush; inspect for cracks/corrosion.

- Assessing whether part replacement is required and which parts
- Shock absorber replacement
- Required if fluid leaking, rod bent, internal failure (bouncing ride), or large external damage.
- Replace both left and right on same axle for balanced performance.
- Rubber bushings/isolation mount replacement
- Required if cracked, collapsed, deformed, or allowing movement/noise; replace bushings on both ends if worn.
- Mounting bolts/nuts/washers
- Replace if corroded, stretched, or damaged; use grade-matched replacements (typically high-grade steel for suspension).
- Mounting bracket or shock mount plate
- Replace or have welded if cracked, bent, or severely corroded; welding on structural parts should be done by a qualified welder if you lack experience.
- Studs or captive nuts
- Replace if stripped or corroded beyond cleaning.
- Reasons for replacement summarized
- Safety (loose/detached shock reduces control), ride comfort, preventing further damage to axle/frame, and eliminating noise.

- Installing new bushings and shocks
- Press new bushings into shock eyes or bracket using press, bench vise, or C-clamp method; ensure orientation per bushing design (some have grease grooves or sleeves).
- Apply light coat of anti-seize to bolt shanks if recommended for your environment; do not contaminate rubber bushing surfaces with solvents.
- Install new shock into mount, align holes; use jack or pry bar to line up holes if necessary.
- Insert new bolts/washers and hand-tighten nuts to keep assembly in place.

- Torque and final tightening
- Tighten bolts snugly with ratchet, then torque to manufacturer specification using torque wrench.
- If you cannot access the Hino service manual for exact numbers, use caution: do not over-torque. Typical medium-truck suspension fasteners require significant torque — consult a manual or a dealer for exact values. If manual unavailable, tighten firmly and recheck after short test drive; have a professional confirm torque as soon as possible.
- If manufacturer recommends tightening with vehicle at normal ride height (suspension loaded), support vehicle so suspension settles on wheels before final torque — this prevents bushing preloading.

- Post-installation checks and testing
- Reinstall wheel(s), torque lug nuts to proper spec.
- Lower vehicle gently and remove jack stands; re-torque suspension bolts to final specification if required.
- Road test slowly, listen for clunks or rattles, and check steering/ride feel.
- Recheck all fasteners after first 50–100 km and re-torque if necessary.

- Special situations and cautions
- If shock mount bracket is welded to frame and heavily corroded or cracked, replacement or professional welding is required — welding suspension mounts is structural work; if inexperienced, have a shop perform it.
- If the suspension uses coil springs that must be compressed to access top shock mount (rare on these trucks), do not attempt without proper spring compressors or professional assistance — compressed springs store dangerous energy.
- If bolts are rounded off, heat (oxy-acetylene) can help but is hazardous — cutting and replacing bolt may be safer for a beginner.
- Do not reuse heavily corroded or stretched bolts; single-use torque-to-yield fasteners must be replaced.

- Tips for beginners
- Replace shocks in axle pairs (left/right) to maintain balanced handling.
- Take pictures before removal to aid reassembly.
- Keep removed hardware and spacers in order and replace anything visibly worn.
- If any step involves welding, major corrosion repair, or compressed coil springs, stop and consult a professional.

- Quick parts checklist to buy before starting
- Pair of shock absorbers for the axle you’re working on (confirm part numbers for Hino FD/FE/FF/SG/FA/FB series or consult parts supplier).
- Set of rubber bushings or a shock mount rebuild kit.
- New mounting bolts, nuts, washers (grade-rated).
- Penetrating oil, anti-seize, and thread locker.
- Replacement bracket or stud(s) if inspection shows damage.

- Final safety note
- If at any point removal or installation requires tools or techniques you’re unfamiliar with (presses, welding, spring compressors, frame repair), stop and have a qualified technician perform that work.


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