Summary of theory (very short)
- Purpose of the transmission oil filter: trap particulate (clutch material, metal wear, gasket debris) so that valve body and narrow passages see clean fluid; maintaining required flow and pressure to feed clutch packs, torque converter and valve body.
- How a clogged/old filter causes faults: restriction lowers flow and pressure, causing delayed engagements, slipping, harsh shifts, overheating and internal wear; contaminated fluid accelerates clutch wear and valve-block sticking.
- How the repair fixes it: replacing the filter and fluid restores unrestricted flow, proper pressure, and clean fluid/fresh friction properties; cleaning the pan/magnet removes abrasive debris so it won’t recirculate.

Ordered procedure with explanation (do each step in order)

1) Preparations and safety
- Tools: jack and stands or lift, drain pan, 10–14 mm sockets, ratchet, torque wrench, gasket scraper, clean rags, new transmission filter for 42RLE, new pan gasket (or OEM RTV if specified), Mopar ATF+4 (factory spec), funnel/suction pump, gloves, safety glasses.
- Safety theory: raising vehicle and working under it requires secure supports; working on a hot transmission risks burns — let it warm for flow but not scalding.
- Why: proper tools and fluid spec preserve valve-body tolerances and friction material.

2) Warm the transmission (lightly)
- Run engine until normal operating temperature (short drive). Warm fluid flows and drains faster and carries suspended debris into pan for inspection.
- Why: cold fluid hides contaminant and wastes time; warm fluid shows actual condition.

3) Raise and secure vehicle
- Place on stands or lift so you can reach the pan easily and have room to lower pan and filter.
- Why: access and safety.

4) Position drain pan and loosen pan bolts gradually
- If no drain plug, break bolts while fluid held by a few bolts. Loosen bolts uniformly just enough so pan lip will drop slowly; then remove remaining bolts carefully.
- Theory: sudden removal dumps hot fluid and may spill debris in uncontrolled way. Loosening gradually controls flow and lets you inspect fluid as it flows out.

5) Lower pan and drain fluid into catch
- Remove pan and let fluid drain. Observe color, smell, presence/amount of metallic particles or clutch material.
- Theory: burnt smell/dark color = overheated fluid; lots of clutch fibers = clutch wear; metallic flakes indicate bearing/gear wear. These help diagnose whether filter change alone is sufficient.

6) Inspect and clean pan and magnet(s)
- Remove magnet(s) and wipe metal debris from them using clean rag (not solvents that leave residue). Scrape and clean pan, remove old gasket material thoroughly.
- Theory: magnet collects ferrous metal; cleaning prevents reintroduction. Inspect debris: fine powder vs. large chunks tells severity.

7) Remove old filter and inspect valve body area
- Unbolt or unclip the filter assembly (42RLE uses a cartridge filter attached to valve body). Remove filter; inspect the seating area and trans inlet screens for damage.
- Theory: filter element traps debris; inspect for torn or missing pieces and for large metal bits that indicate internal failure.

8) Fit new filter
- Install the new OEM-quality 42RLE filter into its location, ensuring proper seating and any O-rings are lubricated with ATF and properly positioned.
- Theory: a correct, well-seated filter ensures no bypass and proper flow; lubricating O-rings prevents pinching and leaks.

9) Replace pan gasket / reseal pan
- Fit new gasket or apply manufacturer-approved sealant to pan as instructed. Reinstall pan and tighten bolts finger-tight initially, then torque in a star/cross pattern to factory spec.
- Why: even torque prevents warping and leaks. (Use factory torque values; pan bolts are low-torque—tighten evenly.)

10) Refill with correct fluid
- Add Mopar ATF+4 (FCA-approved ATF+4). For a pan/filter service you will typically add the amount removed from the pan (~several quarts)—use a pump or funnel. Do not overfill. Final level is set per the factory procedure.
- Theory: ATF+4 provides correct friction modifiers and hydraulic properties for clutch engagement and valve-body control; other fluids can cause shift problems or damage.

11) Warm and cycle transmission, check for leaks
- Start engine, let idle, cycle through all gear positions slowly to circulate fluid, then return to Park. With engine running and at normal operating temp, check fluid level per factory procedure (dipstick or fill-plug method) and top to the specified level.
- Why: circulating purges trapped air, ensures filter fills, and lets you detect immediate leaks. Proper level is critical for pressure and cooling.

12) Road test and final re-check
- Drive through shifts under light load and observe engagement, shifting quality, and temp. Re-check fluid level and inspect for leaks after cooldown.
- Why: road load demonstrates effect under real conditions and confirms repair success.

Diagnosis cues and what to watch for after repair (brief)
- Improvement expected: crisper shifts, restored line pressure = firmer engagements, reduced slip and heat. If symptoms persist (slipping, metallic noise, large metal chunks in pan), that indicates deeper internal damage (clutches, pump, or planetary/planetary gears) requiring rebuild or replacement.
- If magnet shows heavy metal or filter is full of clutch material, do not assume filter-only fix; that debris means component wear.

How the repair fixes the fault (concrete theory)
- Removing the old filter eliminates a physical restriction if it was clogged. Replacing it and replenishing ATF+4 restores the hydraulic fluid’s viscosity and friction characteristics, which restores correct hydraulic pressure and clutch friction performance.
- Cleaning the pan and magnet removes abrasive contaminants that would otherwise abrade clutch linings and wear valve-body metering edges. Proper seating of new filter prevents bypass or starvation of the pump/inlet.
- Overall effect: hydraulic circuits get correct flow/pressure, clutch packs receive clean fluid with correct friction properties, and valve-body passages remain free to operate metering valves — producing restored shift timing, firmness, and cooling, reducing slip and heat-induced wear.

Quick cautions (no fluff)
- Use ATF+4 only (FCA spec). Wrong fluid = shift problems or damage.
- If you find significant metal chunks or burnt clutch material, don’t assume filter-only; prepare for deeper diagnosis.
- Always torque pan bolts evenly to spec and check level per factory warm-engine procedure.

Done.
rteeqp73

Wrangler Won't Shift? Automatic Transmission Cable Linkage Bushing Fix for Jeep JK / JKU - E... PART LINK BELOW! Many of the older Jeep Wrangler JK / JKU vehicles with automatic transmission are having bushing failures!

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Safety first: park on level ground, engage park, chock rear wheels, use a rated jack and jack stands — do not rely on the jack alone. Wear gloves and eye protection.

Ordered procedure with theory and how each action fixes the fault

1) Symptoms and theory (why you’re replacing it)
- Symptom: clunking over bumps, looseness in steering, excessive body roll, or visible play at the link.
- Theory: the sway (anti‑roll) bar connects both sides of the suspension. End links transfer torsional load from the bar to the control arm/strut. If link bushings/ball joints wear or the link breaks, the bar is no longer tightly coupled to the suspension, allowing relative motion (noise and less roll control). Replacing the worn link restores the rigid/controlled transfer of roll moment and removes play/noise.

2) Prepare vehicle
- Lift the vehicle and support with jack stands at proper lift points so the wheel is a few inches off the ground. Remove the wheel if it improves access.
- Theory: supporting the vehicle removes load from the suspension so you can free the link without the control arm forcing it into position.

3) Inspect assembly
- Visually check link, bushings, bar bushings, mounting bolts, and surrounding suspension for wear or damage. Note whether the link is a simple stud+bushing design or a ball‑joint style.
- Theory: if bar bushings or mounting hardware are also worn, they contribute to noise and should be replaced to fully restore function.

4) Support the control arm/strut
- Use a small jack or pry bar to gently support or slightly raise the control arm/strut so the link isn’t under tension once fasteners are removed.
- Theory: this prevents sudden drop of the suspension and makes removal easier and safer.

5) Remove fasteners and old link (in order)
- Apply penetrating oil to nuts/bolts if corroded; hold the stud with an Allen or hex if needed while loosening the nut.
- Loosen and remove the nut(s) securing the link to the sway bar and to the control arm/strut. Remove any retaining clips or washers, then remove the link.
- Theory: freeing both ends breaks the faulty mechanical connection. Removing seized hardware carefully preserves threads and avoids damage to sway bar or control arm.

6) Compare and prepare new link
- Match new part to old (length, stud orientation, bushing type). If the new link has grease fittings, fill per instructions. Use any supplied new bushings/washers/fasteners.
- Theory: correct geometry and bushings ensure the link loads the bar and arm as designed; greaseable parts extend life.

7) Install new link
- Position the link so bushings/seals are correctly seated; hand-thread nuts to hold it in place. If the design specifies orientation or preload, observe it.
- Support the control arm/strut at the same ride height it was at before removal if specified (some links are preloaded if installed with the vehicle at static ride height).
- Theory: proper seating and orientation prevent preloading/binding of the link and allow the sway bar to operate through its intended travel.

8) Torque fasteners to spec
- Tighten nuts/bolts to the vehicle manufacturer’s torque spec. If you don’t have the spec, get it from a shop manual; typical end‑link nuts often fall in the 35–80 ft·lb range depending on design, but always verify.
- Theory: correct torque clamps the joint to eliminate play while avoiding overloading bushings/threads that can cause premature failure.

9) Reassemble and lower
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle to the ground so suspension is at normal ride height, then re-torque wheel lug nuts to spec.
- If the link required final tightening at ride height (some designs do), perform that now.
- Theory: final torque at ride height ensures bushings are not stressed in an unnatural position, preserving life and ensuring correct roll transfer.

10) Verify and test
- Static check: visually confirm no binding, correct seating, and that hardware is tightened.
- Dynamic check: perform a slow test drive over bumps and through turns. Confirm no clunks, reduced body roll, responsive steering, and no new noises.
- Theory: successful repair removes free play (no clunk) and restores the sway bar’s ability to transfer torque between sides, improving stability.

Common complications and fixes (brief)
- Seized bolts: use penetrating oil, heat, or cut/replace hardware. Replace corroded nuts/bolts with grade-equivalent hardware.
- Wrong length/orientation: a mis-sized link can preload or limit travel — always use correct OEM or exact-fit aftermarket parts.
- Worn bushings in the bar or chassis mounts: if these are degraded you’ll still have noise/looseness — replace them as needed.

Why this repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Worn/broken links allow relative motion between the sway bar and suspension, causing noise and loss of roll control. Replacing the link restores the rigid connection and correct geometry, eliminating play and allowing the anti‑roll bar to apply counter‑tensional force across the axle properly, which removes clunks, stabilizes roll response, and returns steering feel to normal.

Done.
rteeqp73