- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, gloves and work clothes; keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
- Work on a flat level surface, chock wheels, set parking brake and disconnect the negative battery terminal before you begin.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone—always use appropriately rated jack stands and/or a transmission jack for support.
- If you are not trained or comfortable with heavy lifting, electrical systems, or dropping a transmission, stop and have a shop handle the job.

- Basic scope and recommendation (what a complete beginner should start with)
- Start with service items you can do safely without removing the transmission: fluid change, pan gasket and filter replacement, and external leak repair. These fix many common drivability issues.
- Internal transmission work (clutches, bands, valve body rebuild, torque converter) and transmission removal require specialized tools, precise clearances and experience; those are generally best left to a professional.

- Common 42RLE symptoms and what they usually mean
- Hard shifts, flares, slipping or poor engagement — could be low/dirty fluid, clogged filter, failing solenoid pack or internal clutch wear.
- Leaks at pan area or bellhousing — often pan gasket or input/output shaft seals.
- No forward or reverse, stalled in gear, or metal shavings in pan — likely internal damage or torque converter failure; needs rebuild or replacement.

- Basic parts you will likely replace (and why)
- Transmission fluid (Mopar ATF+4 or other manufacturer-specified Dexron VI-compatible fluid as per owner manual): fluid degrades, gets contaminated and causes improper hydraulic pressures.
- Transmission filter: clogs restrict fluid flow and cause shifting problems. Replace whenever you change the fluid/pan.
- Pan gasket: often leaking when pan is serviced; replace to ensure a good seal.
- External seals (input shaft/front seal, output yoke seal): replace if visible leaks.
- Solenoid pack / shift solenoids: electrical failures cause shifting problems; they are replaceable without a full rebuild in many cases but sometimes require valve body removal.
- Torque converter (or rebuild) and internal clutch packs: required when there are internal failures, contamination with metal, or torque converter issues; this typically requires transmission removal or full rebuild.

- Basic service procedure (high-level, safe-for-beginners approach)
- Drain transmission fluid into a pan, remove transmission pan, inspect fluid and pan for metal debris. Large quantities of metal or burnt smell = stop and consult a pro.
- Replace filter and pan gasket, clean magnet(s) in the pan of fine metallic particles (small filings are normal; chunks are not).
- Reinstall pan with new gasket and fasteners tightened to factory torque specs (get the factory manual or a reliable torque chart).
- Refill with the correct type and approximate volume of fluid (42RLE commonly needs around 7–9 quarts total but confirm for your vehicle). Check level with the engine warm and running per service procedure.
- Road test and recheck for leaks and proper shifting.

- Tools you likely already have (basic tools) — description and how to use each
- Combination wrench set (open/box-end): used to hold or turn nuts and bolts when a socket won’t fit. Use correct size to avoid rounding fasteners; pull toward you rather than push when possible.
- Metric socket set with ratchet (3/8" drive and 1/2" drive): primary tool for removing bolts. Use correct sized sockets, apply steady force, and use extensions for recessed bolts.
- Breaker bar: for stubborn bolts; apply slow, steady pressure and don’t use cheater pipes on torque tools.
- Torque wrench (click-style): ensures bolts are tightened to specified torque. Set scale, snug bolt, then apply slow steady pull until it clicks. Re-check critical fasteners after initial use.
- Floor jack (rated to lift vehicle): position under a manufacturer-approved lift point and pump carefully; secure vehicle with jack stands immediately.
- Jack stands (pair, rated): place on solid surfaces under frame points; lower vehicle slowly onto them; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Drain pan and oil catch container: catch used fluid, avoid spills; transfer fluid into approved disposal containers for recycling.
- Funnel and long plastic tubing: help refill without spills and aid in reach to the dipstick/tube.
- Screwdrivers, picks and a gasket scraper: remove pan gasket material, pry off the old filter if needed; be careful not to gouge mating surfaces.
- Hand cleaner, rags, gloves and flashlight: cleanup, inspection and lighting.

- How to use the basic tools safely (single-line practical tips)
- Use sockets that fully seat on the fastener; keep extensions and universal joints tight to avoid slipping.
- When jacking, always check that the saddle is centered and that the jack stands are placed on solid frame or axle points.
- When torquing, snug bolts in a crisscross pattern and use the factory torque sequence if available; do not over-torque.
- Use a magnet or shop towel to test pan magnets for excessive metal; wear gloves when handling fluid.

- Extra / specialized tools you may need and why
- Transmission jack or dedicated transmission adapter for a floor jack: required if you must remove the transmission; it safely supports and lowers the heavy, awkward unit. Without it you risk injury and vehicle damage.
- Torque converter holding tool and input shaft alignment tool: used during transmission removal/installation to align and secure the torque converter; necessary to avoid damaging the pump and input splines.
- Specialty snap-ring pliers and driver set for valve body bolts/pistons: internal jobs have many snap rings and small parts that require the correct tools to remove/install safely.
- Pressure gauge/line adapter kit (transmission hydraulic pressure test): used to measure line pressures to diagnose solenoid, pump or valve body issues. It’s required to confirm hydraulic faults rather than guessing.
- Multimeter and scan tool/OBD-II scanner that reads transmission codes: diagnose electrical faults and solenoid operation; select a scanner that can read manufacturer-specific transmission codes for better diagnostics.
- Valve body separator tools, brass punches, bearing drivers, and a precision press: required for internal rebuilds to remove bearings, bushings and drive pistons without damage. These are needed for controlled disassembly and correct reassembly.
- Shop manual and torque spec chart: not a physical tool but essential—provides bolt torque values, sequences, fluid capacity and specific procedures. Without it you risk incorrect assembly.

- How to use the specialized tools (short practical notes)
- Transmission jack: center the transmission on the saddle, secure with straps, and lower/lift slowly while guiding alignment with the engine.
- Pressure gauge kit: connect to the proper test port per manual, warm transmission to operating temp, then compare readings to spec.
- Scan tool/multimeter: follow tool prompts for live data; test solenoids by commanding them on/off and watching electrical resistance and circuit voltage.

- What to inspect when you drop the pan (what to look for and why)
- Color and smell of fluid: burnt smell or dark brown/black indicates overheated fluid and likely internal wear.
- Metal particles: small fine filings on magnet are common; chunks or heavy concentrations indicate clutch/bearing failure.
- Condition of the filter: excessive debris or metal embedded in the filter suggests internal damage.
- Foreign material, coolant contamination (milky fluid), or large metal slivers are all reasons to stop and consult a pro.

- When you should not proceed and need a professional
- If you see significant metal chunks, a contaminated fluid (coolant mixed with ATF), or the transmission won’t shift into gear after service.
- If internal parts (drums, clutch packs, stator/planetary) or torque converter are suspected damaged—these jobs need a shop with presses, clean rooms and expertise.
- If removal or reinstallation requires precise alignment or drivetrain balancing beyond your toolset.

- Typical replacement parts and brief notes on purchasing
- Transmission fluid: buy Mopar ATF+4 or a manufacturer-approved equivalent. Use the exact spec for 42RLE.
- Filter and pan gasket kit: many OEM and aftermarket kits include new pan bolts and magnets — buy a kit that fits the 42RLE/your Jeep model year.
- Solenoid pack / valve body gasket: buy matched to your year/model; some solenoid packs are sold as a unit and are straightforward to replace if accessible.
- Seals and O-rings: front input seal, output shaft seal, and pan gasket/O-rings—replace when leaking or when pan is removed.
- Torque converter or rebuild kit, clutch pack sets, servo seals, bushings, pump kit: these are for internal rebuilds and should be purchased only after diagnosis confirms their failure.

- Quick troubleshooting checklist (beginner-friendly)
- Check fluid level & condition first (easy, often fixes issues).
- Change fluid, pan gasket and filter next if fluid is old or dirty.
- Scan for transmission codes — replace solenoids if codes indicate electrical failures.
- If problems persist or metal is found, consult a transmission specialist.

- Final practical reminders
- Get the factory service manual or a reputable repair guide for torque specs, fluid capacity and step-by-step service diagrams before starting.
- Keep organized: lay out bolts and parts in order, take pictures during disassembly, and label everything.
- Dispose of used transmission fluid and contaminated materials responsibly at a recycling center.

If you want, I can list a concise shopping checklist of the exact basic tools, consumables and recommended parts for a 42RLE fluid/filter/pan job in bullet form.
rteeqp73

Wrangler Won't Shift? Automatic Transmission Cable Linkage Bushing Fix for Jeep JK / JKU - E... PART LINK BELOW! Many of the older Jeep Wrangler JK / JKU vehicles with automatic transmission are having bushing failures!

How To Program A 2015-2022 JEEP/CHRYSLER/DODGE Transmission Control Module and Engine Computer

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Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Basic metric hand tools (ratchets, extensions, 8–24 mm sockets, combination wrenches).
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lbs).
- Harmonic balancer / crank pulley puller.
- Crankshaft holding tool (or equivalent to prevent rotation).
- Camshaft holding/locking tool (engine-specific pin/fixture or improvised safe lock per service manual).
- Timing-chain tensioner compressor / pin (to collapse and hold hydraulic/mechanical tensioner).
- Seal puller and installer for front crank seal.
- Pry bar, scraper, gasket remover, shop rags, brake cleaner.
- Drain pan, coolant catch.
- Jack and engine support (or hoist) and quality jack stands.
- RTV/sealant and new timing cover gasket.
- New timing chain kit: chain, guides, sprockets (if worn), tensioner (hydraulic or mechanical), any guide bolts, and replacement bolts specified as single‑use (service manual note).
- New front crank seal, timing cover gasket, and cam/crank sprocket bolts if specified as torque‑to‑yield.
- Engine oil and filter (recommended to change after repair), coolant if drained.
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses.

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat surface, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Support engine before removing mounts (jack under oil pan with block or use engine support bar). Never rely on a jack alone without blocks and stands.
- Use jack stands when vehicle is raised; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Tag/electrical disconnects for sensors and wiring harnesses to avoid damage.
- Follow torque and tightening sequence from the service manual. Replace single‑use bolts.
- Dispose of fluids properly.

Overview of the job
You’re replacing the engine timing chain (and associated guides/tensioner) on a Jeep that uses the 42RLE transmission. The transmission itself is not being serviced — you’ll be working at the front of the engine: remove accessory drive items, harmonic balancer, timing cover, replace chain/tensioner/guides, reinstall and verify timing, reseal.

Step-by-step procedure (general — verify vehicle year/engine-specific details)
1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Raise vehicle if needed for access to crank pulley and lower cover; place on jack stands.
- Drain coolant if the water pump or coolant passage is behind the timing cover (common on Jeep engines). Catch fluid.

2) Remove accessory drive components
- Remove serpentine belt(s).
- Remove alternator, power steering pump or unbolt and move aside (do not disconnect hoses if possible), A/C compressor bracket or support if required, and any brackets blocking access to timing cover.
- Remove fan shroud and fan if necessary for space.

3) Remove crank pulley / harmonic balancer
- Use a crankshaft holding tool or have an assistant apply the brake and hold the hub. Remove crank bolt (impact gun often used).
- Install harmonic balancer puller and remove the balancer. Clean the crank snout.

4) Remove timing cover
- Remove all bolts securing the timing cover (some are long and go into block or upper oil pan area). Keep track of bolt locations.
- Pry off timing cover carefully. Some RTV may require careful scraping; avoid gouging aluminum.
- Inspect inside for oil/coolant contamination and note condition of chain, guides, sprockets.

5) Set engine to Top Dead Center (TDC)
- Rotate crankshaft to bring cylinder #1 to TDC on the compression stroke. Align crank sprocket timing mark to block/dowel reference.
- Confirm camshaft timing marks align per service manual.
- Use camshaft holding tool or locking pins to secure camshafts in correct position. Do not rely only on timing marks — lock the cams.

6) Lock the crank (recommended)
- Use crank holding tool or remove crank bolt and insert temporary holding tool/pin if applicable to prevent rotation while you remove the chain/tensioner.

7) Release and remove tensioner
- Use the tensioner compressor tool to compress the tensioner piston/spring, then insert the retaining pin to hold it compressed (or follow service manual procedure).
- Remove tensioner mounting bolts and remove tensioner. Some tensioners will need to be replaced — do not reinstall the old one.

8) Remove chain and guides
- Remove guide bolts and pull guides away. Remove chain from cam and crank sprockets.
- If cam or crank sprockets are damaged or worn replace them. Replace any sprocket bolts specified as single‑use.

9) Inspect components & prepare new parts
- Inspect sprockets, cam lobes, bearing surfaces and oil pump gear for wear. Replace any worn parts.
- Compare new chain kit to old parts for correct fit.
- Clean timing cover and block sealing surfaces thoroughly.

10) Install new chain, guides, sprockets and tensioner
- Position new chain on crank and cam sprockets so all timing marks align exactly per service manual at TDC. Follow directional arrows on chain if provided.
- Install new guides and torque bolts to spec.
- Install new tensioner in collapsed position (use the compressor to collapse and install; do not let the tensioner release until instructed). Torque tensioner bolts to spec.
- If the tensioner uses a retaining pin when compressed, install pin only after the chain is properly placed; remove retaining pin per procedure to let tensioner take up slack.

11) Verify timing
- With cams locked and crank at TDC, double-check alignment marks on chain and sprockets.
- Remove cam locking tool and slowly rotate crank two full revolutions by hand (using torque wrench or ratchet). Recheck timing marks again at TDC. If marks do not align, do not run engine — recheck installation.

12) Reinstall timing cover & front seal
- Install new front crank seal using proper installer tool, seat to correct depth.
- Apply new gasket or RTV as specified. Reinstall timing cover and torque bolts in correct sequence to the specified torque.
- Replace any other front seals or O‑rings disturbed during work.

13) Reinstall harmonic balancer / crank pulley
- Clean crank snout, align keyway, press or install balancer and torque crank bolt to spec (use torque wrench; some engines require a specific angle after torque).
- Reinstall accessory drive components, belts, fan, and any removed brackets.

14) Refill fluids & final checks
- Refill coolant if drained, bleed cooling system per procedure.
- Replace engine oil and filter if contaminated or if recommended. If the engine was left dry or oil passages exposed, prime oil system by cranking with fuel disabled or following priming steps in manual (to avoid dry start).
- Reconnect battery.

15) Start and monitor
- Start engine and check for leaks, unusual noises. Listen at idle and during warm‑up for rattles (a sign of incorrect tensioning).
- Recheck timing cover area and under car for leaks after initial run.
- After warm up, re-torque accessories if required and check belt tension.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not locking cams correctly: Always use a cam holding tool or approved pin method. Camshaft rotation while chain is off will lead to wrong timing and possible valve/piston contact on interference engines.
- Reusing tensioner or guides: Replace both tensioner and guides (and sprockets if worn). Old plastic guides often fail quickly.
- Incorrect chain direction or misaligned timing marks: Follow arrows/marks on new chain and service manual diagrams. Double‑check before finalizing.
- Forgetting to collapse/retain tensioner during installation: If you let an uncompressed hydraulic tensioner release prematurely you’ll get slack and misalignment.
- Not replacing single‑use bolts: Many sprocket/cover bolts are torque‑to‑yield; replace them.
- Improper sealing of timing cover: Use new gasket/RTV and correct torque pattern to avoid leaks.
- Failing to prime oil system: If oil feed passages to tensioner are empty, the tensioner may not seat first start — prime or cranking procedure is important to avoid damage.
- Using incorrect tools or pulling harmonic balancer incorrectly: Damaging the crank snout or balancer seating will cause vibration.

How specific tools are used (quick)
- Harmonic balancer / crank puller: Threads into the harmonic balancer and pulls it off the crank snout evenly. Use the correct adapter to avoid damaging balancer.
- Camshaft holding/locking tool: Engages slots or holes in cam sprockets to prevent rotation when the chain is removed. Install before removing tensioner or chain.
- Crank holding tool: Holds the crankshaft from turning while torquing or removing the crank bolt.
- Tensioner compressor / retention pin: Compresses the tensioner piston so you can install it or remove it safely. Insert retaining pin or clip while tensioner is collapsed; release after chain is installed and aligned.
- Seal installer: Drives the new crank seal squarely into the cover without damage.

Replacement parts to have on hand (minimum)
- Timing chain kit: chain, both guides, tensioner, sprockets if worn.
- Front crank seal, timing cover gasket (or RTV), cam/crank sprocket bolts if single‑use.
- Engine oil and filter (recommended).
- Coolant (if drained).
- Any accessory bolts or brackets that are corroded.

Final notes
- This is a general procedure. Specific steps, special tools, torque values and timing mark positions vary by year and engine model. Always confirm procedure and specs with the factory service manual for your exact Jeep engine. Follow safety and torque procedures exactly.
rteeqp73