Short answer up front: the “exhaust_pipe” you’re talking about is almost certainly the transmission vent/breather hose on the Jeep 42RLE. It’s a simple plastic/rubber tube that lets the transmission case breathe so internal pressure doesn’t build, and it must be routed and secured properly (and sometimes extended) to avoid contamination and seal failure. Below I’ll describe every relevant component, why the vent exists, what goes wrong, and a clear step‑by‑step repair/replacement procedure for a beginner mechanic.

What the vent/breather does (analogy)
- Think of the transmission like a sealed soda bottle filled with fluid and some air. When it heats up, the air and fluid expand and need someplace to go or the pressure will push fluid past weak seals. The vent is the small opening that allows this air (and any small vapor) to escape to atmosphere so pressure stays equalized. If you seal the bottle completely, pressure builds and the lid leaks or pops—same idea with transmission seals.

Components and what each does
- Transmission case: metal housing that contains gears, clutches, fluid. Has a small vent nipple (a raised stub) where the breather connects.
- Vent nipple (transmission vent fitting): the plastic/metal protrusion on the transmission housing that the vent hose slips onto. May be a short rigid elbow on some models.
- Vent/breather hose (rubber or plastic tube): the flexible line that carries vented air away from the transmission. Length and routing vary; sometimes factory has an extension to higher point in engine bay.
- Grommet or nozzle seal (if applicable): some installations have a rubber grommet where the vent passes through a bracket or bulkhead to seal and protect the hose.
- Clamp (small worm gear or spring clamp) or friction fit: depending on design the hose may be held on the nipple by friction, a clamp, or push-fit.
- Brackets / clips / zip ties: used to secure the hose so it can’t chafe on moving parts or hot exhaust.
- Vent cap / filter (optional aftermarket): a small cap or breather filter to keep dirt and water out while allowing air out.
- Routing anchor points: the places in the engine bay or firewall where the hose is secured; important so open end is above likely water ingress (avoid low points).

Theory behind the repair: why you’d replace or extend the vent
- Clogged, collapsed, melted, cracked, or disconnected vent hose lets pressure build or lets contaminants in. Symptoms: transmission fluid pushed out of seals (external leaks), fluid on or around seals, whining or odd shifting (from low fluid due to leaks), and faster seal deterioration.
- If the vent end is mounted low (below possible water entry) or inside a place that collects road water, water can be sucked into the transmission while fording or by splashing — contamination, emulsion, and severe damage can occur.
- Thermal expansion cycles and age: rubber hoses perish, soften, or collapse and the fitting can crack. Replacing/ extending the vent to a high dry point is preventive maintenance.

What can go wrong if neglected
- Overpressure → oil venting past axle seals, case seams, or output shaft seals → external leaks.
- Water intrusion → contaminated fluid → clutch pack slip, corrosion, internal wear.
- Blocked vent → inconsistent pressure, accelerated seal wear, possible clutch drag if hydraulic circuits are affected.
- Hose chafe → hose splits and dumps fluid on underside or burns on hot exhaust.
- Wrong routing (near exhaust) → hose melts, sealing failure.

Tools and parts you’ll need
- New vent hose (high-temp rubber or OEM replacement) — length usually 18–36 inches depending on routing.
- Small clamps or OEM style push-fit if used (optional).
- Zip ties or OEM clips to secure hose.
- Small flat screwdriver and pliers.
- Jack and jack stands (if access from underside required).
- Work gloves, safety glasses, shop rags.
- Optional: small inline breather/filter cap and hose adapter if you want a cleaner installation.
- Cleaning solvent (brake cleaner) to remove grime before attachment.

Step‑by‑step replacement/extension (beginner-friendly)
1. Safety first
- Park on level ground, engine off and cool. Set parking brake. If you must go under the vehicle, jack and support with jack stands. Chock wheels.
2. Locate the vent
- The 42RLE vent nipple is on the transmission case near the top/side. Follow any existing small rubber hose—one end on the transmission nipple, the other typically tucked into the engine bay near the firewall or valve cover. If the hose is missing, look for a small stub or elbow on the transmission.
3. Inspect
- Look at the hose for cracks, collapse, oil contamination, or disconnection. Check routing — is the outlet low or pointing toward a place that gets wet? Is it heavily abraded or melted?
4. Choose replacement route
- Plan to route vent hose upward and high in the engine bay (preferably attached to the firewall or near the valve cover), so its end is above the highest water line and away from hot exhaust components. The end should be dry and away from dirt sources. If you often ford water, run hose up to near the engine bay top.
5. Remove old hose
- Pull the hose off the vent nipple. Often it’s just friction-fit; use pliers gently if tight. If stuck, carefully cut with a razor and peel off remaining bits. Clean the nipple and surrounding area with a rag or solvent.
6. Cut and prepare new hose
- Cut to length so it reaches your chosen high point with a small upward loop to prevent water pooling. Make sure the hose is a snug fit on the nipple.
7. Install new hose
- Push one end fully onto the transmission vent nipple. If a clamp is used, secure it so it won’t slide off but don’t crush the hose. Route the hose along factory wiring harnesses or bracket points not near exhaust or moving parts.
8. Secure hose
- Use zip ties or clips to secure hose at several points. Keep it taut enough to avoid sagging but allow slight movement for vibration. Ensure the outlet end points upward or sideways—not downward—and is above likely water splash line.
9. Optional: add breather cap/filter
- Install a small breather cap on the outlet if you want to reduce dirt ingress. These are small and allow air out while blocking larger particles.
10. Final check
- Verify no chafe points, no contact with hot exhaust, and outlet is high. Clean any spilled fluid. Lower vehicle if raised.
11. Test drive and recheck
- Drive gently and re-inspect after 50–100 miles for any leaks, hose movement, or new problems.

How to check if vent was the cause (diagnosis)
- Look for fluid leaks around output seals, axle seals, or case seams. If these are present and vent was blocked, you may need to replace seals and maintain proper routing to prevent recurrence.
- Squeeze the hose: if it’s collapsed and doesn’t spring back, it’s bad.
- Block the vent temporarily and start engine to see if fluid is pushed out of seals (this is a diagnostic often done by observing but don’t drive with vent blocked).
- Check transmission fluid level and condition after repair. Contaminated/emulsified fluid means you may need a fluid change.

Common mistakes to avoid
- Routing the hose too close to exhaust or hot manifolds — it can melt.
- Leaving the outlet low where water can enter.
- Using too-small diameter hose that collapses or too stiff hose that doesn’t fit snugly.
- Forgetting to secure hose — it will chafe and fail.
- Ignoring old oil deposits on seals — if seals are already damaged, simply replacing vent won’t fix leaking seals; they must be repaired.

When you also must replace seals or do more extensive repairs
- If the seals are already leaking, the vent fix is only preventive. Replace worn seals/shaft seals and then ensure the vent is correct to stop reoccurrence.
- Significant water contamination usually requires fluid flush and possibly clutch pack inspection.

Quick checklist summary for a good repair
- New hose intact, routed upward, secured, away from heat.
- Vent nipple clean and hose seated snugly.
- Outlet protected from dirt/water and not pointing down.
- No chafe against moving parts.
- Recheck for leaks after test drive.

Final safety note
- Don’t work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Wear eye protection; transmission fluid can be hot. Dispose of old contaminated fluid and hose per local regulations.

That’s the full beginner-level walkthrough: what the vent is, why it matters, all parts involved, possible failure modes, and a safe step-by-step replacement and testing process.
rteeqp73

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