- Safety first (read and follow before touching anything)
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile or mechanic gloves, and closed-toe shoes.
- Work on a level surface, engine off and key removed unless engine must be run for a specific step (follow the step’s safety note).
- Chock rear wheels, set parking brake, and support vehicle with rated jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Keep loose clothing, hair, and jewelry away from belts and rotating parts when the engine is running.
- Dispose of drained fluid properly — power steering fluid is automotive waste.

- Tools required (each tool explained and how to use it)
- Socket set (metric sizes 8–19 mm), ratchet, and extensions
- Use the correct socket size to avoid rounding nuts/bolts; attach socket to ratchet and extension to reach tight spaces; turn ratchet handle to loosen/tighten.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 10–150 ft·lb range preferred)
- Use for critical fasteners (pump mount, steering box bolts, pitman arm nuts); set desired torque, tighten until wrench clicks to avoid under- or over-tightening.
- Combination wrenches (metric set)
- For bolts in tight spaces where a socket won’t fit; hold bolt head with one wrench while turning nut with another.
- Flare-nut/line wrenches (for hydraulic hose fittings)
- Use these on power-steering hard-line and hose fittings to avoid rounding the hex; they grip more sides of the fitting than a regular open wrench.
- Adjustable (crescent) wrench
- Useful for odd-size nuts or holding a fitting while turning the mating part; don’t use as the primary wrench on critical fasteners.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For clamps and small fasteners; use correct tip to avoid cam-out.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint)
- For clamps, retaining clips, and pulling small hoses.
- Hose clamp pliers or pliers and screwdrivers for pinch/ear clamps
- Remove and install spring or ear-style hose clamps on the reservoir and return hoses.
- Drain pan (wide, 4–6 qt capacity)
- Catch drained power-steering fluid to avoid spills.
- Funnel and clean rags
- For refilling and wiping spills.
- Hydraulic trolley jack and rated jack stands
- Jack the vehicle at manufacturer lift points; support on stands for access to underside.
- Wheel chocks
- Prevent vehicle roll.
- Pressure hose replacement tools: line wrenches, new crush washers or O-rings as applicable
- Required when replacing hoses; explained later.
- Pulley puller (power steering pump pulley puller) — may be required
- Pulls the pump pulley off the pump shaft without damage; if you buy a pump with the pulley pre-mounted you can skip this tool.
- Pitman arm puller (if your vehicle has a pitman arm/steering box)
- Removes the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft; necessary to remove steering box or replace the arm. Using a hammer/prying can damage parts.
- Small pry bar or large screwdriver
- For gentle leverage to remove hoses or align components.
- Replacement pump (reman/exchange) or pump rebuild kit, pressure hose(s), return hose, O-rings/seals
- Described in parts section below.
- Brake cleaner or parts cleaner and a wire brush
- Clean mating surfaces before installing new parts.
- Shop manual or access to vehicle-specific torque specs and diagrams
- You will need correct torque numbers and routing diagrams; if unavailable, search a trusted manual.

- Basic diagnosis (what to check first and how to use tools for diagnosis)
- Visual check for leaks
- With engine off and cooled, wipe around pump, hoses, and steering gear with a rag; run engine briefly (if safe) and watch for fresh leaks. Use a flashlight.
- Check fluid level and condition
- Remove reservoir cap, inspect color (dark brown/black suggests contamination or burned fluid), smell (burnt smell indicates overheating), top up if low. Note where level sits on full cold/hot markings.
- Listen for pump noise
- With engine idling (and vehicle in park/neutral with wheels on ground), open the hood and listen for whining/grinding from the pump — indicates cavitation, low fluid, air, or failing bearings.
- Check belt condition and tension
- Inspect serpentine or V-belt for cracks, glazing, or looseness. Use a finger to press on longest run; about 1/2"–1" of deflection is common — consult manual. Tighten or replace belt if worn.
- Check for play in steering linkage
- With wheels on the ground, have an assistant slowly turn wheel and watch tie rods, pitman arm, and idler; excessive play may indicate steering box wear.

- Simple fixes for beginners (lowest risk, no specialty tools required)
- Top-up and bleed (if symptom is whining, difficulty turning, or air present)
- How to do it: fill reservoir to specified level with manufacturer-recommended fluid (older Toyotas often use ATF; verify). Start engine (safely) and, with vehicle on ground and chocked, slowly turn steering from lock to lock several times while watching fluid level; add fluid as needed. This expels air. Keep hands and clothing clear of belts. Recheck for leaks.
- Tools used: funnel, rags, drain pan (for overflow), flashlight.
- Tighten or replace drive belt
- How to do it: loosen alternator/pump adjuster bolts with socket/wrench, set proper tension, then torque bolts to spec. If belt cracked or glazed, replace it.
- Tools used: socket set, combination wrenches, torque wrench.

- Hose replacement (common failure, medium difficulty)
- When required and why
- If you find wetness, seepage, or a burst return/pressure hose, replace the hose. Rubber hardens and cracks with age; pressure hoses may also develop internal collapse causing whining or reduced assist.
- Parts needed
- New pressure hose (high-pressure), return hose (low-pressure), new O-rings/crush washers at fittings if used.
- How to do it (bulleted, beginner-friendly)
- Place drain pan under fittings, loosen hose fittings with flare-nut/line wrench to avoid rounding, then remove clamp(es) and pull hose off reservoir or fittings.
- Clean mating surfaces and install new hose using new washers/seals. Hand-start fittings, then tighten with line wrench to snug; torque wrench on metal line fittings if you have torque specs.
- Refill reservoir and bleed system as above.
- Tools used and why
- Flare-nut/line wrench: prevents rounding off hydraulic fittings.
- Pliers/screwdriver: for hose clamps.
- Drain pan and rags: catch and wipe fluid.

- Power steering pump replacement or rebuild (common when noisy or leaking)
- When required and why
- Replace pump if you have loud whining, metal play in pump shaft, visible leaking from pump seals, or if internal vanes bearings have failed. Rebuilding requires press and seals; exchange/reman pump is easier for beginners.
- Parts needed
- Reman/exchange pump assembly (preferably with pulley mounted), gasket or O-ring kits, new drive belt if worn.
- How to do it (overview)
- Disconnect battery negative terminal for safety.
- Drain fluid from reservoir into pan, loosen and remove drive belt, remove pulley (if pump doesn’t come with pulley and you don’t have a puller, buy one or get pump with pulley), disconnect hoses using line wrench, unbolt pump mounting bolts, remove pump.
- Install new pump: bolt in place to correct torque, attach pulley (or use unit with pulley), reconnect hoses with new washers/seals, reinstall belt and set tension, refill and bleed system.
- Start engine and inspect for leaks and noise; re-torque bolts after short test drive.
- Tools used and instruction specifics
- Pulley puller: threads onto pulley and pulls it straight off shaft — set puller arms on pulley lip, tighten center bolt to remove.
- Line wrench: to remove hose fittings without rounding.
- Torque wrench: to torque mounting bolts and pulley nut.
- If you can get a reman unit with pulley pre-mounted, you avoid using the puller.

- Steering gearbox (box/gear) repair or replacement (higher difficulty, requires special tools)
- When required and why
- Replace or rebuild gearbox if there’s excessive play in steering, fluid leaking from box seals, grinding/rough steering, or internal wear that topping up and pump replacement don’t fix.
- Parts needed
- Steering box rebuild kit (seals, bearings) or exchange gearbox, new pitman arm if damaged, new mounting bolts/lock washers as needed.
- Tools required and why
- Pitman arm puller: required to remove pitman arm safely without damaging threads or taper.
- Breaker bar and large sockets: for stubborn nuts.
- Torque wrench: for correct reassembly torque.
- Transmission jack or floor jack with wood block: to support heavy steering box during removal.
- How to do it (high-level steps)
- Disconnect battery, lift and support vehicle safely, disconnect drag link/pitman arm using pitman arm puller, support the gearbox, unbolt mounting bolts, remove box.
- Install exchange box or rebuild kit per manual; bench rebuild requires special press for bearings and careful setting of shim/preload — not recommended for absolute beginners.
- Reinstall pitman arm with proper torque and cotter pin if used, reconnect drag link, refill and bleed system, check alignment and steering play.
- Why special tools matter
- Pitman arm/tie rod components are on tapered splines; forcing them off with a hammer can damage splines or the arm — the puller applies even pressure.
- Proper torque and support avoid misalignment and premature failure.

- Bleeding/purging air (how to bleed safely and effectively)
- Best-practice method
- Ensure reservoir is full. With vehicle on level ground and wheels on the ground (safer to avoid stressing components), start engine at idle.
- Slowly turn steering wheel from lock to lock several times, pausing briefly at each end, watching fluid level and air bubbles in reservoir. Add fluid as needed so the pump never runs dry.
- Continue until bubbles stop and steering feels smooth. Recheck for leaks and top to correct level when engine and steering are warm.
- Alternate if vehicle must be on stands
- Support front wheels so they can be turned by hand; with a helper or using a strap apply slow, even turns while engine runs to avoid overheating pump; still keep reservoir topped up.

- Post-repair checks and final steps
- Inspect all fittings for leaks with engine running at idle and during a short test drive.
- Re-torque fasteners to spec after the first short drive.
- Check fluid level again when warm and after settling.
- Verify steering alignment and lack of play; if alignment is off, get a professional wheel alignment.

- Common replacement parts and why each might be needed
- Power steering fluid (manufacturer-specified; older Toyotas commonly used ATF/Dexron)
- Why: contaminated or burned fluid causes noise and damage.
- Pressure hose (high-pressure)
- Why: ages, cracks, or leaks; internal collapse reduces flow.
- Return hose (low-pressure)
- Why: external cracks or connection leaks.
- Pump (reman/exchange or rebuild kit)
- Why: bearing failure, internal wear, or leaking seals cause noise and loss of assist.
- Seals and O-rings (hose and pump fittings)
- Why: leak prevention; always replace old crush washers/O-rings when reassembling fittings.
- Steering gearbox or rebuild kit
- Why: worn gears, bearings, or seals produce play, leaks, and poor steering feel.
- Drive belt and tensioner
- Why: slipping belt causes pump to underperform and makes noise.

- Extra tools you might not have and why they’re required
- Pulley puller
- Needed if replacing pump and the pulley is pressed on; prevents damage to shaft and pulley.
- Pitman arm puller
- Necessary for safe removal of pitman arm from steering box.
- Torque wrench
- Required for proper assembly to avoid overtightening or under-tightening critical fasteners.
- Line/flare-nut wrenches
- Save fittings from rounding and leaking; cheaper to buy than to damage parts.
- Hydraulic press (for rebuild)
- Required only if rebuilding pump or gearbox bearings; most beginners should buy reman components instead.

- Quick troubleshooting guide (bullets linking symptoms to likely fixes)
- Whining at low fluid level or when cold
- Top up fluid, bleed; if persists, check for collapsed pressure hose or failing pump.
- Whining/whirring at all times and play increases
- Pump bearing or internal failure — replace pump.
- Visible leak at hose or pump seam
- Replace hose or pump seal; tighten fittings and replace crush washers.
- Excessive steering play and knocking
- Check idler/pitman arm/tie rod ends and steering gearbox; replace worn linkage or gearbox.
- Hard steering only at low speeds or when hot
- Low fluid, air in system, failing pump, or belt slipping — diagnose in that order.

- Final practical tips (short)
- Buy a reman pump with the pulley pre-mounted if you’re a beginner to avoid need for specialized tools.
- Keep all old parts and match them to new parts to ensure correct replacements.
- If gearbox replacement or steering linkage wear is present, consider professional help — those systems affect vehicle control.
- Always consult a vehicle-specific service manual for torque specs, fluid type, and routing diagrams.

- Recycling and disposal
- Collect used fluid in a sealed container and take it to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil/fluids.

This gives you the diagnostic steps, the tools you’ll need and how to use each, the common repairs and why parts must be replaced, and the safety and bleeding steps. Follow the tool usage notes carefully; for any heavy or safety-critical procedures (steering box replacement, major linkages), consider having a more experienced helper or a professional perform or inspect the work.
rteeqp73

@shed_rigs 1966 2f Swapped Fj45 Landcruiser

1976 FJ40 2F Engine Distributor Vacuum Advancer/Timing This video shows how the advancer is positioned incorrectly along with the distributor.

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Summary of theory (very brief)
- Function: the clutch release (throwout) bearing sits on the transmission input shaft or a sliding sleeve and is pushed by the clutch fork against the pressure-plate diaphragm when the pedal is pressed. It converts axial motion of the fork into a rotating contact surface so the diaphragm can be released without the fork scraping on a stationary surface.
- Failure modes: bearings wear, seize, or develop play/damage. Symptoms: growling/whining when pedal depressed, vibration, hard or noisy gear changes, dragging or incomplete disengagement. Replacing the bearing restores smooth low-friction rotation at the diaphragm face so the clutch can release cleanly.
- Related items to inspect/replace: clutch fork/pivot, pilot bushing/bearing in crank, input shaft splines (and grease), pressure plate and clutch disc condition, transmission input seal.

Ordered procedure (in-order, concise)
1. Preparation and safety
- Park level, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Gather tools: jack and jackstands or lift, transmission jack, socket set, wrenches, pry bars, screwdriver, pliers, torque wrench, bearing puller if needed, bleed kit. Get new release bearing and any seals/pivot kit.
- Have the factory service manual/specs handy for bolt torques and sequence.

2. Drain/secure fluids and support
- If needed, drain gearbox/transfer case fluid (to prevent spills when disconnecting driveshaft).
- Support engine from above (engine support bar) or use a jack under oil pan with wood block to take engine half-load when transmission is removed. Do not rely on transmission alone.

3. Remove driveline components to access transmission
- Remove exhaust parts and heat shields as required.
- Disconnect driveshaft/propeller shaft (mark orientation), tie it up out of the way.
- Disconnect clutch slave cylinder or cable/linkage from clutch fork. If hydraulic, do not remove the line—unbolt slave cylinder and hang to avoid fluid loss, or drain/plug line and be ready to bleed after reassembly.
- Remove shifter linkage and any electrical connectors (neutral switch etc.).
- Remove starter motor (provides access to bellhousing bolts).

4. Unbolt and lower the transmission
- Place transmission jack under trans, secure.
- Remove bellhousing bolts in a pattern, support transmission as bolts are removed.
- Separate transmission from engine by sliding it rearward. Use a pry bar gently where needed; avoid pulling on input shaft. Once free, lower transmission slowly with jack.

5. Access the release bearing and associated parts
- On the transmission input shaft or sleeve you’ll find the release bearing assembly. Note how it locates on the fork and shaft (take photos if needed).
- Inspect the clutch fork for wear at the contact point and the pivot ball/bushing condition. Check input shaft splines, pilot bushing/bearing, and the inside surface of the bellhousing for scoring.

6. Remove the old bearing
- Remove retaining clips or spring that holds bearing to fork (specific to style). Pull bearing off the shaft/sleeve or slide fork away and remove bearing.
- Inspect bearing inner race and outer race condition; note any grit or metal debris.

7. Replace/inspect related wear items (theory why)
- Replace the pilot bushing/bearing if worn — a bad pilot causes misalignment and additional bearing stress.
- Replace or refurbish the fork pivot/bushing; a wobbly fork causes uneven bearing loading.
- Replace input shaft seal if leaking.
- If clutch pressure plate/disc show excessive wear or heat damage, replace them. A worn clutch can cause excessive bearing load and will rapidly wear a new bearing.

8. Install the new bearing correctly
- Fit the new bearing onto the input shaft/sleeve in the correct orientation: the bearing face that contacts the diaphragm should face the pressure plate (flat face toward diaphragm). For captive bearings that clip to the fork, reattach per manufacturer orientation.
- Do not pack the bearing with heavy grease. Lightly grease the splines where the bearing slides (if specified), and the fork pivot points. Never contaminate the friction surfaces of clutch disc or pressure plate.

9. Reassemble transmission to engine
- If clutch/pressure plate removed, use an alignment tool and reinstall clutch components torqued to factory specs and pattern.
- Slide transmission forward carefully aligning input shaft with clutch disc splines and pilot. Avoid forcing; the input shaft must seat into pilot/bushing.
- Tighten bellhousing bolts to spec. Reinstall starter.

10. Reconnect driveline, hydraulics, and fluids
- Reattach driveshaft, linkage, exhaust, electrical connectors.
- Reconnect slave cylinder and/or bleed clutch hydraulic system fully; purge air to restore pedal feel.
- Refill any fluids drained.

11. Test and verify
- With vehicle safely supported and parking brake on, start engine and confirm clutch pedal operation: smooth travel, no growl when depressed, gears can be selected with engine running and clutch depressed.
- Road-test at low speed; verify no slipping, no abnormal noises, and correct engagement.

How this repair fixes the fault (concise)
- A worn or seized release bearing cannot rotate freely against the diaphragm spring while the fork pushes it. That creates rubbing, noise, heat, and uneven force so the clutch does not fully release or produces vibration. Replacing the bearing restores low-friction rotating contact at the diaphragm face and correct axial movement of the fork, eliminating the noise and allowing reliable clutch disengagement.
- Replacing worn pivot, pilot, or seals prevents premature new-bearing failure by restoring alignment and reducing side loads on the bearing.

Quick cautions (no extra talk)
- Always support engine/transmission properly; transmission is heavy.
- Avoid contaminating clutch friction surfaces with grease or oil.
- Torque fasteners to factory specs; follow bleed procedure for hydraulics.

Done.
rteeqp73

1) Identify and fault‑map
- What you see: coolant loss, oil in coolant, white smoke, low compression, visible hairline crack, or pressure test failure.
- Theory: cracks let coolant or oil leak and/or allow combustion pressure to escape; symptoms tell you where to focus (head, block, manifold). Use dye‑penetrant, pressure test (cooling system / cylinder leakdown), and visual inspection to locate the crack ends.

2) Remove and isolate the component
- Remove the head/manifold/block section from the vehicle and strip all ancillary parts, gaskets, sensors, hoses.
- Theory: welding/fusing heats and distorts metal. Removing the part prevents damage to other components and lets you control preheat/cool and inspection.

3) Determine material and choose the joining method
- 2F engine heads/blocks/manifolds are cast iron (or cast iron for head/block; manifolds may be cast iron).
- Theory: cast iron is high‑carbon, brittle, and reacts badly to rapid thermal changes. You must choose filler and method that accommodate carbon content and control stresses. Typical choices:
- Nickel‑based filler (ENiFe or Ni‑rod) by stick (SMAW) or TIG: best for structural, high‑strength repairs on cast iron.
- Bronze brazing (oxy‑acetylene with bronze rods): good for hairline cracks and thin sections, lower heat input, less distortion but lower strength.
- Avoid regular steel rods; they lead to brittle welds and more cracking.

4) Clean and prepare the crack area
- Degrease, remove paint, rust, coolant residue; grind a shallow V or U groove along the crack and drill small “stop” holes at each end. Remove oxide from the prepared area.
- Theory: welding binds new metal to clean base metal; grooves let you penetrate the full thickness and create a sound weld root. Stop‑holes stop crack propagation.

5) Preheat and fixturing
- Uniformly preheat the part to a controlled temperature (typically 150–260 °C / 300–500 °F for cast iron; follow filler manufacturer guidance). Clamp or fixture parts to preserve alignment.
- Theory: preheat reduces the thermal gradient between weld and base metal, lowering residual tensile stresses that cause new cracks. Fixturing prevents distortion as metal expands.

6) Welding/fusing technique
- Use short weld deposits, low heat input, and stop‑and‑start technique. If using arc welding with nickel rods: short stringer beads, keep each bead small, cool slightly between passes. If brazing: flow the bronze so it wets the groove completely. Avoid prolonged high heat in one spot.
- Theory: cast iron is sensitive to heat and stress. Short passes limit the heat‑affected zone, reducing hard/brittle microstructures and thermal stresses. Nickel filler accommodates differences in thermal contraction and provides ductility.

7) Peening and interpass practice (optional and conditional)
- Historically peening was used between passes to relieve stress; modern practice is cautious — light peening only if recommended for the specific method and filler. Always follow filler/welder guidance.
- Theory: peening can redistribute stresses and reduce crack reopening, but it also can introduce work‑hardening; improper peening may worsen cracking.

8) Post‑weld heat treatment and controlled cool
- After welding, keep the part at elevated temperature for a hold (stress‑relief) then cool slowly (wrap in insulating blanket, furnace cool, or controlled oven). Typical slow‑cool back to room temp over hours.
- Theory: slow cooling prevents formation of brittle microstructures and relieves residual stresses that cause late cracking.

9) Finish, machine and test
- Grind welds to profile, machine mating surfaces flat if needed, re‑drill/cork any tapped holes disturbed, and pressure/coolant test the repair (block pressure test, hydrostatic test, or leakdown).
- Theory: a weld that looks good but leaks means incomplete penetration or porosity. Final testing ensures the repair has restored fluid and pressure containment.

10) Reassemble correctly
- Use new gaskets, correct torque and sequence for head bolts/manifold bolts (factory specs), replace any head bolt stretchers if required, refill fluids, bleed cooling system, and run to test operating temperature while monitoring for leaks.
- Theory: proper torque and new gaskets ensure sealing interfaces don’t reintroduce leaks; thermal cycling on the first run reveals hidden issues.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise theory)
- A crack is a discontinuity that lets fluids or combustion pressure escape and concentrates stress that grows the crack. Welding/fusing fills and metallurgically re‑bonds that discontinuity, restoring a continuous load path and sealing the fluid/pressure boundary. Correct filler and thermal control ensure the repaired area has ductility and toughness compatible with cast iron so it doesn’t immediately re‑crack under thermal and mechanical cycling.

Safety and practical notes (brief)
- Welding cast iron is specialist work: correct filler, preheat, and controlled cool are essential. If you lack proper equipment/experience, professional repair or replacement is often the most reliable option. Follow PPE and fire‑safety rules; remove or isolate fuel and flammables.

End.
rteeqp73