Quick note up front: the 42RLE is the transmission model — it does not change the basic wheel-alignment procedure. Wheel alignment is a suspension/steering job, not a transmission job. Below is a beginner-friendly, detailed, practical guide that names and describes the components, explains the theory, gives a step‑by‑step check and adjustment flow, and lists common failure modes and fixes. Read the factory service manual for exact alignment angle specs and torque values for your exact Jeep model and year.

Why alignment matters (theory, short)
- Alignment sets three primary angles so the wheels point and roll the way the vehicle was designed to:
- Camber (tilt in/out at top of wheel) — affects cornering grip and even tire wear.
- Caster (steering pivot tilt fore/aft) — affects straight-line stability and steering return.
- Toe (front edges in/out) — strongly affects tire scrub and wear and steering feel.
- Analogy: think of the car as a pair of shoes. If the toes are turned in or out, you’ll walk oddly and wear the soles unevenly. Alignment makes all four shoes point properly.
- If alignment is wrong: rapid tire wear, pulling to one side, loose or twitchy steering, poor fuel economy, vibration, and unsafe handling.

Major components you’ll encounter (description and function)
- Wheel and Tire — contact patch and wear patterns; tire pressure affects rolling radius and alignment checks.
- Wheel Rim — mounts the tire. Bent rim causes runout and false alignment readings.
- Wheel Hub / Bearing — the hub is the rotating center; play/bad bearings produce loose steering and erroneous measurements.
- Brake Rotor / Caliper — mounted to hub; sometimes remove/inspect when doing alignment.
- Steering Knuckle / Spindle — holds hub and connects steering/tie rods; can bend from impacts and change camber/caster.
- Ball Joints — upper/lower pivot points between control arms and knuckle. Worn ball joints = play and wandering.
- Control Arms (upper/lower) — position the knuckle fore/aft and in/out; bushings allow controlled movement.
- Control Arm Bushings — wear permits uncontrolled movement that changes alignment under load.
- Strut / Shock Absorber (with spring) or Upper Strut Mount — controls ride height and camber. Collapsed strut = permanent camber change.
- Sway bar & end links — lateral stability; broken end links can let body roll change alignment under cornering.
- Tie Rods — inner and outer tie rods connect steering rack/box to the knuckle. Adjusting the outer tie rod alters toe. Worn tie rods = looseness and wandering.
- Steering Rack / Box — converts steering wheel rotation to lateral movement of tie rods. Rack damage or worn inner tie rods causes erratic toe changes.
- Thrust Angle — the direction the rear axle points relative to the vehicle centerline; set by rear toe and affects tracking.
- Toe adjustment hardware: tie rod ends & jam nuts.
- Camber/caster adjustment hardware: strut top bolts, eccentric bolts, cam bolts, control-arm bolts/shims (depends on model).
- Alignment machine / targets / turntables / wheel clamps — measure angles precisely.
- Simple tools for DIY: camber gauge, bubble gauge, toe plates + tape measure, string-line, digital angle gauge.

How the geometry works (simple definitions)
- Camber: imagine looking from the front. If the top of the tire leans inward it’s negative camber; outward is positive camber. Small camber helps cornering, too much causes inner or outer wear.
- Caster: look from the side. The steering pivot leans toward the rear or front. Positive caster (top toward rear) helps steering return and high-speed stability.
- Toe: look from above. Toe‑in = fronts point slightly toward each other; toe‑out = fronts point away. Toe affects straight-line stability and tire scrub; toe is usually the most frequently adjusted angle.
- Thrust angle: the axis the rear wheels push the car along — should align with the vehicle centerline so front wheels track straight behind the rear.

Pre-checks before measuring/alignment (do these before adjustments)
1. Safety: chock wheels, use lift or jack stands, set parking brake.
2. Tire inspection:
- Check pressure, tread depth, uneven wear patterns (inner/outer/feathering).
- Look for bulges, separated belts — bad tires must be changed.
3. Wheel/hub/bearing check:
- With wheel raised, grab at 12 and 6 and try to rock — any axial play may be wheel bearing or hub or bent rotor.
- Check wheel runout by spinning and watching wobble.
4. Suspension & steering wear check (critical — worn parts will ruin any alignment):
- Tie rod ends: check for play by moving wheel side-to-side & feeling for slop; inspect boots.
- Ball joints: check for vertical play and torn boots.
- Control arm bushings: inspect for cracks, movement.
- Struts/shocks: leaking or collapsed struts change ride height/camber.
- Sway bar links/engine mount condition — any worn component allows geometry to change under load.
5. Ride height: measure vehicle height at the specified points; sag or lift kits require different procedures/specs.
6. Steering wheel centering: note position of the steering wheel. If uncentered after alignment there may be inner tie rod or rack issues.

Tools & equipment (essentials)
- Professional: 4-wheel alignment rack with sensors/targets, turntables, slip plates, wheel clamps.
- DIY/garage: camber gauge (magnetic or digital), string-line or toe plates, tape measure, carpenter’s level or digital angle gauge, jack & stands, breaker bar, torque wrench, sockets, tie rod tools, pry bars.
- Small tools: marker to mark tie rod position, anti-seize, jam-nut wrench, torque wrench for final torque.

Step-by-step alignment check and basic adjustment (professional-machine workflow)
1. Preliminaries:
- Inflate tires to spec, remove excess weight from vehicle, check fuel (recommended state if manual says), set vehicle on level surface or lift.
- Center steering wheel and lock it in place if machine requires.
2. Mount sensors / wheel clamps:
- Clean wheel faces and clamp sensors per machine manual. Zero the machine per manufacturer directions.
3. Measure current alignment:
- Read camber, caster, toe, and thrust angle. Note which corners are out of spec.
4. Diagnose out-of-spec angles:
- Excessive toe: likely tie rod misadjustment or bent tie rod.
- Camber out: bent knuckle, worn control arm bushings, collapsed strut.
- Caster out: bent control arm, incorrect strut top position, or missing shim.
5. Fix worn/bent parts before adjusting:
- Replace any worn tie rod ends, ball joints, bushings, or bearings. Torque new parts to spec.
6. Adjust toe (most common adjustment):
- Loosen outer tie rod jam nut.
- Turn the tie rod to shorten/lengthen the effective steering arm.
- Turning rod in or out changes toe. One turn changes a specific amount — use machine to watch toe numbers in real time.
- When front toe is correct, tighten jam nuts to spec and re-check.
7. Adjust camber:
- If adjustable with strut top bolts or eccentric bolts, loosen and turn to set camber reading. Some Jeeps require camber plates or aftermarket adjustable upper control arms.
8. Adjust caster:
- Caster often adjusted with eccentric bolts at control arms or strut positions, or via shims. Set per spec.
9. Set rear toe/thrust:
- For solid rear axles, set toe so thrust angle is zero or within spec so the rear axle points at the vehicle centerline.
10. Re-center steering wheel:
- After front toe/caster/camber are set, ensure the steering wheel is centered. If not, adjust tie rods left/right equally, not by misaligning toe.
11. Final torque:
- Torque all jam nuts, eccentric bolts, strut top bolts, control arm bolts to factory specs.
12. Test drive and recheck:
- Drive 5–10 miles, recheck alignment—some parts settle. Re-check with machine and readjust if necessary.

DIY simple method (if no alignment machine)
- String method for thrust-line and front toe:
1. Park on flat level surface, mark centerline of vehicle (draw a tape centerline or use string around car parallel to wheels).
2. Put strings parallel to each side of vehicle, equidistant from centerline.
3. Measure from string to rim at front and back of each wheel; adjust tie rods until front and rear measurements give desired toe (usually slight toe-in).
- Toe-plate method:
1. Place toe plates next to rims, measure between plates on front and rear edges to compute toe.
2. Adjust tie rods until desired toe achieved.
- Camber gauge on strut top while steering wheel is centered to set camber by adjusting strut top bolts if possible.

Common things that go wrong and how to spot/fix them
- Toe wanders and vehicle pulls:
- Cause: worn tie rod ends, inner/outer; bent tie rods; steering rack wear; incorrect toe set.
- Fix: inspect/replace tie rods, inner tie rods or repair rack; then set toe.
- Uneven inner or outer tire wear:
- Cause: excessive camber (inner wear) or toe (feathering).
- Fix: check struts/knuckles/bushings; fix camber/caster hardware or replace bad parts; set toe correctly.
- Steering wheel off-center after alignment:
- Cause: incorrect toe differential between sides or wrong centering procedure.
- Fix: re-center steering wheel and re-adjust tie rods equally; ensure rack hasn’t failed.
- Thrust angle off / car tracks crooked:
- Cause: bent rear axle, rear toe misadjusted, control arm bushings worn.
- Fix: repair/replace damaged parts, set rear toe to correct thrust angle.
- Rapid return to out-of-spec:
- Cause: loose or incorrectly torqued bolts, worn bushings, cracked spring mounts, bent parts.
- Fix: replace worn components, torque to spec, do alignment again.
- Camber/caster not adjustable to spec:
- Cause: bent steering knuckle, incorrect ride height (sagging springs or lift), missing shims.
- Fix: replace bent parts, restore correct ride height, use adjustable components if necessary.
- Wheel bearing play or bent rim giving false readings:
- Cause: worn bearing or damaged rim.
- Fix: replace bearing or rim before alignment.
- Aftermarket lift or lowered suspension:
- Cause: changes pivot geometry; stock adjustment points may not be capable of hitting factory specs.
- Fix: use adjustable control arms, cam bolts, or alignment shops experienced with lifted/lowered Jeeps.

Torque and specification notes
- Specific numeric specs (degrees or inch/mm) vary by year and model. Always reference the factory service manual for your Jeep for:
- Vehicle-specific camber/caster/toe targets and tolerances.
- Torque values for tie rod jam nuts, strut top bolts, control arm bolts.
- If you don’t have the manual, a safe interim goal is near-zero thrust angle, slight front toe-in (total toe around 0.05–0.20°/inch depending on measurement units), and camber close to factory values. But this is only a stopgap—consult exact specs.

Practical tips and safety
- Always repair worn components before aligning. Alignment on worn parts is wasted effort.
- Mark tie rod positions with paint or scribe lines before turning so you can restore if needed.
- When adjusting, make small incremental changes and re-measure. One small turn can change toe a lot.
- Replace both tie rod ends on an axle if one is worn; front-end parts should be replaced in pairs for even geometry if budget allows.
- After any suspension component replacement, re-torque bolts after a short road test (check service manual for re-torque interval).
- If the vehicle has a drag link/center link or solid front axle (Wrangler YJ/TJ with solid axle), the procedure and terminology differ slightly — check model-specific procedures.
- Keep safety first: use jack stands or a lift; never rely solely on a jack.

Final note about the 42RLE transmission
- The 42RLE gearbox itself doesn’t affect wheel alignment geometry. However, drivetrain vibrations, driveline angles, or slip that originate from the transmission or driveshaft can be mistaken for alignment problems. If you have unusual vibration or shudder, check the transmission, driveshaft U-joints/CV joints, and engine/transmission mounts alongside the alignment.

This gives you the how and why plus the parts, checks, and typical fixes. Use a proper alignment machine when possible for accuracy; if you must DIY, use the string or toe-plate method and verify the steering and suspension parts are in good condition first.
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- Safety and prep (short, do this first)
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile or mechanic gloves to protect eyes and skin.
- Work on a level surface, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Let engine and transmission cool (hot fluid can scald).
- Use jack and jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.

- Tools required (every tool explained and how to use it)
- Hydraulic floor jack (2‑ton or greater)
- Lifts the vehicle. Place the jack pad under the transmission crossmember or lifting point, pump handle to raise until jack stands can be placed. Lower jack slightly so vehicle rests on stands.
- Two quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Support the vehicle after lifting. Place under sturdy frame points and lower the vehicle onto them. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Wheel chocks (rubber)
- Place behind wheels remaining on the ground to stop vehicle movement.
- Drain pan (wide, low-profile, 6–10 qts)
- Catches ATF when you open lines or remove the pan. Position under fittings and pan before loosening anything.
- Line (flare‑nut) wrenches in appropriate sizes (usually 10, 11, 13 mm common)
- Designed to grip the nut flats on transmission cooler line fittings without rounding them. Use by fully seating the wrench on the fitting and turn with steady force.
- Adjustable pliers / slip‑joint pliers
- For hose clamps or gripping lines. Use gently to avoid crushing metal lines.
- Ratchet and metric socket set (1/4" or 3/8" drive; common sizes 8–14 mm)
- For pan bolts, cooler mounting bolts, radiator brackets. Fit socket fully on bolt head and turn with ratchet; use correct size to avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench (inch‑pound or ft‑lb, small range 10–80 ft‑lb)
- Final bolt tightening must be to spec to avoid leaks or stripped bolts. Use to torque pan bolts and line fittings if spec available. If you do not have a torque wrench, tighten snug then a small additional fraction of a turn — but get a torque wrench when possible.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- For hose clamps or prying off clips. Use the correct tip size and leverage carefully.
- Transmission fluid pump or funnel with long spout
- A hand pump or funnel makes refilling through the dipstick tube easy and clean. Use a hand pump to push fluid into the dipstick tube.
- Clean lint‑free rags and brake parts cleaner or ATF‑safe degreaser
- Clean mating surfaces and wipe spills.
- New ATF (Mopar ATF+4 is required for 42RLE)
- Use the manufacturer-specified fluid. ATF+4 only—other ATF types can harm shifting and seals.
- New cooler lines, O‑rings/seals and hose clamps (if replacing)
- Lines often use replaceable O‑rings or sealing washers. Replace any seal that is disturbed.
- New transmission filter and pan gasket (recommended if you drop the pan)
- Filter removes debris; gasket prevents pan leaks. Replace if you plan a service.
- Safety gloves, eye protection, and an LED work light
- Safety gear and light to see under the vehicle.
- Container for used fluid and local disposal plan
- Collect fluid and take to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used oil/ATF.

- What might be replaced and why (signs and parts)
- Transmission cooler lines (rubber or metal) — replace if cracked, leaking, corroded, or flattened
- Reason: Leaks lower fluid level, cause overheating and hard shifting; metal lines corrode over time.
- O‑rings or crush washers at fittings — replace anytime you disconnect fittings
- Reason: Old seals leak when disturbed.
- External cooler/radiator (if radiator has internal cooler and is leaking)
- Reason: If cooler core is pierced or radiator leaks ATF, radiator replacement is required.
- Transmission filter and pan gasket — replace if dropping pan
- Reason: Filter collects debris; gasket prevents leaks. 42RLE often benefits from filter change when servicing fluid.
- Transmission fluid (ATF+4) — replace or top up
- Reason: Fluid degrades; low or burnt fluid causes slipping and overheating.
- Quick note: If there is severe internal transmission damage (metal shavings, burnt smell, major leaks, no drive), the gearbox may need professional repair or replacement.

- How to locate the cooler lines/cooler
- Trace two lines from the transmission to the radiator (front) or to a small aftermarket cooler (front of vehicle). The radiator has two transmission fittings (in/out); external coolers sit in front of the radiator and connect into those lines.

- Step‑by‑step procedure (for a basic line/cooler replacement and fluid service)
- Warm up engine briefly (2–3 minutes) to circulate fluid; do not get it hot. Park, shut off engine, chock wheels.
- Lift the front of the vehicle with the floor jack and support securely on jack stands.
- Place drain pan under the cooler lines and the radiator area where fittings are located.
- Loosen the line fittings at the radiator/cooler first using a flare‑nut wrench. Turn slowly to avoid rounding the nut.
- Expect some ATF to drain immediately. Catch it with the drain pan.
- If fittings are seized, apply penetrating oil, let soak, and use steady force with the flare wrench. Avoid rounding.
- Disconnect the lines where you need to replace them. Cap the open transmission ports with a clean rag to minimize drips.
- Remove external cooler if replacing: undo mounting bolts with ratchet and sockets, remove hose clamps, pull cooler forward.
- Install new cooler or lines:
- Route new lines exactly like the old ones to avoid rubbing or sharp bends.
- Install new O‑rings/seals on fittings; lightly lube O‑rings with clean ATF before assembly.
- Thread fittings by hand until snug to avoid cross‑threading; then tighten with flare wrench. If you have torque specs, torque to spec; otherwise tighten a firm 1/4–1/2 turn past snug (use a torque wrench soon).
- Replace clamps on hoses and tighten securely but not excessively.
- If dropping the pan and replacing filter (recommended if fluid contamination suspected):
- Place pan under transmission, loosen pan bolts progressively to allow fluid to drip out (loosen opposite corners to keep pan level).
- Remove pan, clean magnet(s) and pan thoroughly.
- Remove and replace filter (note orientation and mounting). Install new gasket and reinstall pan bolts finger-tight, then torque to spec in a crisscross pattern.
- Lower vehicle enough to access dipstick comfortably (or leave on stands if safe to start engine).
- Refill transmission with correct ATF (Mopar ATF+4) via dipstick tube using pump or funnel. Add initial amount (e.g., 3–4 qts) — exact amount depends on whether you changed lines only or drained pan/filter. Check service manual for total capacity.
- Start engine, with parking brake on and foot on brake, cycle through gears slowly (P–R–N–D–L) to circulate fluid.
- With engine idling and at operating temperature, recheck fluid level on dipstick and add as needed to reach the “HOT” full mark. Do not overfill.
- Inspect all connections and cooler for leaks while engine idles; retorque fittings if a leak appears.
- Lower vehicle, test drive briefly to heat fluid, recheck level and inspect again for leaks.

- How to use the tools in context (quick reminders)
- Flare‑nut wrench: fully seat on fitting, keep wrench perpendicular to nut; turn slowly and evenly to avoid rounding.
- Ratchet/socket: choose socket that fits snugly; turn with steady motion; use extension if needed.
- Torque wrench: set to specified value, tighten smoothly until click or indicated reading.
- Transmission pump/funnel: insert tube down dipstick tube; pump slowly and count quarts. Wipe drips.
- Jack and stands: lift with jack, place stands, lower slowly until the vehicle sits on stands; give the vehicle a small push to ensure stability.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Collect used ATF in a sealed container and drop off at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts used fluid.
- Clean spills with absorbent pads and degreaser. Do not pour ATF onto ground.

- Troubleshooting signs that mean replacement or professional help is required
- Continuous or heavy leaks from lines or radiator — replace lines or radiator.
- Severe contamination (metal shavings, heavy debris on filter) — professional transmission inspection.
- Difficulty shifting, slipping, overheating after service — stop driving and consult a transmission specialist.

- Final notes (brief)
- Use only Mopar ATF+4 for 42RLE.
- Replace O‑rings whenever you disconnect fittings.
- If radiator is leaking ATF, radiator replacement (or radiator core repair) is required because the cooler core is part of the radiator.
- If you’re uncomfortable with removing lines or diagnosing leaks, have a shop do it.

No questions.
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