Short answer up front
- The Chrysler/Jeep 42RLE does not have a user‑accessible external band adjuster. If a band clearance is out of spec the repair requires internal disassembly (valve body removal and/or transmission removal and partial rebuild) or transmission replacement. For a beginner with only basic tools, band “adjustment” is effectively not a DIY trim operation — you must diagnose, then either replace the transmission, send it to a transmission shop, or perform a rebuild with the correct special tools and a factory service manual.

Why (concise)
- Modern automatics like the 42RLE use hydraulic/servo applied bands and electronically controlled clutches. There is no simple external screw to tune. Band clearance and servo preload are factory‑specified and set during assembly or rebuild. Attempting guessing adjustments without the service procedures risks permanent damage and unsafe driving.

If you still want the complete, practical pathway (diagnose → confirm band problem → decide between rebuild or replacement)
- Diagnose first: check fluid level and condition, scan for transmission codes, observe symptoms (slipping, harsh shifts, delayed engagement, burnt smell), drop the pan to inspect the filter and metal contamination. These steps determine whether the problem is electrical/valve body/solenoid related or mechanical (bands/clutches).
- If diagnosis points to mechanical wear (lots of metallic particles in pan, burnt fluid, consistent slipping or inability to hold gears), replacement or rebuild is required. Band replacement/adjustment is done during a teardown/rebuild and is not a simple roadside tweak.

Tools you will need (every tool listed with what it is and how to use it)
- Factory service manual (paper or online subscription)
- What it is: the dealer/service manual (Chrysler/Jeep Factory Service Manual) or Mitchell/Alldata procedures and torque specs.
- How to use it: follow the step‑by‑step teardown, torque specs, clearances, and test procedures. It tells you exact adjustments, torque values, and sequences — indispensable for safe rebuilds.
- OBD‑II scan tool that reads transmission codes (basic code reader to mid‑range scanner)
- What it is: a handheld tool that reads stored fault codes and live PIDs.
- How to use it: plug into the OBD port, read transmission codes (P07xx–P09xx family), note solenoid/pressure faults which could mimic band problems.
- Floor jack and good quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- What they are: a hydraulic jack to lift the vehicle and stands to securely hold it.
- How to use them: lift at manufacturer jacking points with the floor jack and place jack stands under proper frame or pinch‑weld points; NEVER rely on the jack alone.
- Wheel chocks and gloves/eye protection
- What they are: chocks prevent vehicle roll; PPE protects you from fluid and shards.
- How to use them: chock opposite wheels, wear gloves and safety glasses while working.
- Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, and breaker bar
- What they are: sockets and bars to remove pan bolts, crossmember bolts, transmission mount bolts, etc.
- How to use them: use correct socket sizes, extensions to reach, breaker bar for stuck fasteners; apply steady force and protect bolt heads.
- Torque wrench (in‑lb and ft‑lb ranges if possible)
- What it is: tool to apply accurate torque to bolts/nuts.
- How to use it: set to the specified torque value from the manual and tighten in the specified sequence. For critical bolts (bellhousing, band anchor bolts) factory values are required.
- Drain pan and disposable absorbent pads / oil catch container
- What they are: containers to catch transmission fluid and pads to keep area clean.
- How to use them: slide pan under transmission pan, loosen bolts gradually to drain fluid, dispose of fluid responsibly.
- Gasket scraper and solvent (brake cleaner)
- What they are: tools to remove old gasket material and clean mating surfaces.
- How to use them: carefully scrape off old gasket without gouging surfaces; wipe with solvent until clean and dry.
- Transmission jack (or extra floor jack with wood block) — strongly recommended if removing transmission
- What it is: jack designed to support and lower transmissions safely.
- How to use it: center transmission on jack, secure it, and lower slowly. A regular floor jack is risky for balancing heavy transmission.
- Seal puller / pry bars and screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- What they are: hand tools to remove seals, clips, and smaller components.
- How to use them: use leverage carefully to avoid damaging housings and sealing surfaces.
- Torque converter support tool or transmission jack adapter
- What it is: tool to hold torque converter while removing transmission.
- How to use it: prevents torque converter from falling or separating from flexplate unexpectedly.
- Transmission fluid pump / funnel and measuring container
- What they are: pump or funnel to add ATF and container to measure exact fluid volume.
- How to use them: pump ATF into the transmission tipper neck to the specified level after refill.
- Pressure gauge kit for automatic transmissions (for diagnosing hydraulic pressure)
- What it is: set of adapters and gauges to measure line and governor pressures.
- How to use it: screw the correct adapter into the test port per manual and measure pressures against specs to confirm internal hydraulic faults.
- Clean rags, parts trays, magnet pick‑up tool
- What they are: for organization and removing metal debris.
- How to use them: keep fasteners in trays by subassembly, use magnet to remove metal shavings from pan or valve body.
- New pan gasket, filter kit, ATF+4 (factory spec), replacement torque converter seal / pan bolts (as needed)
- What they are: consumables and fluid usually changed whenever pan is dropped.
- How to use them: replace filter and gasket during pan drop; refill with correct ATF to the correct level while engine warm per manual.

Special/optional professional tools you may need for internal band work
- Transmission clutch spring compressor or special band spring tool
- Why required: to remove or install band/servo springs safely and keep tension controlled.
- Valve body servicer, bench test kit, and calibrated feeler gauges / dial indicators
- Why required: to measure piston travel, clearances, and end play precisely.
- Reaming tool or seal puller-specific to 42RLE (if replacing bore seals)
- Why required: some seals require correct installation tools to avoid leaks.

What steps you as a beginner can safely do (no teardown)
- Fluid level and condition check
- How: warm the engine to operating temp, park on level ground, shift through gears, leave in Park with engine idling, check dipstick level and color/odor. If low or burnt fluid, top up and schedule deeper inspection.
- Scan for transmission codes
- How: use an OBD‑II scanner and record codes — many transmission problems are electronic/solenoid related and fixable without band work.
- Pan drop for inspection and filter replacement
- How: drain fluid into pan, remove pan bolts (loosen opposite corners gradually), inspect magnet and oil for metal flakes/clutches fragments, replace filter/gasket. This can reveal mechanical failure clues.
- Basic pressure test (if you have a pressure gauge and know how)
- How: install pressure gauge at test port per manual and compare to spec — low pressure suggests internal leaks, requiring rebuild.

If internal band adjustment/replacement is required (high level only — not a minute‑by‑minute how‑to)
- Remove transmission from vehicle (requires transmission jack)
- Why: most band work requires access to the band and servos inside the case or under the valve body.
- Disassemble to the band/servo area following factory manual
- Why: correct sequence, piston removal, and measurement procedures are needed to set clearances.
- Inspect/measure band lining and servo components
- Why: worn band lining or ripped servos require replacement rather than adjustment.
- Replace worn bands/clutches/servo parts per kit
- Why: bands wear; lining thickness must be within spec. Adjustments are done during reassembly to factory specs (shim thicknesses, bolt torques).
- Reassemble with new gaskets/sealants, torque to spec, refill with ATF+4, and perform road test and pressure verification
- Why: correct assembly and fluid are critical to performance and longevity.

Common replacement parts that might be required and why
- Filter and pan gasket (always when pan is dropped)
- Why: contaminant removal and to prevent leaks.
- Transmission fluid (ATF+4 for many Chrysler automatics)
- Why: correct fluid viscosity and friction characteristics are critical.
- Bands or band lining (if worn)
- Why: worn lining cannot be adjusted into spec; replacement required.
- Servo seals and pistons (if leaking or scored)
- Why: leaking servos reduce apply pressure and cause slipping.
- Valve body gaskets/solenoids/valve body rebuild kit (if hydraulic control issues)
- Why: electrical/valve problems often mimic band issues; replacing solenoids or cleaning valve body can solve some shift problems.
- Clutch packs, steels, and frictions (if clutches are worn)
- Why: clutch wear causes slipping; replacement required during rebuild.
- Torque converter (if worn or contaminated)
- Why: torque converter damage can cause shudder/slip; often replaced/rebuilt during transmission replacement.
- Transmission mount, pan bolts, seals
- Why: worn mounts or missing/stripped bolts cause leaks/noise.

Why a shop rebuild or replacement is commonly recommended
- Required special tools and jigs, torque and clearance specs, and factory procedures are essential.
- Transmission removal and internal work is heavy, messy, and requires precision. Incorrect band adjustments will shorten life or cause immediate failure.
- Shops have pressure test rigs, valve body test benches, and warranty coverage.

Quick checklist for a beginner before attempting anything major
- Check fluid level and condition now.
- Scan for codes with OBD‑II.
- Drop pan, change filter/gasket, inspect for metal.
- If pan shows heavy metal/burnt fluid or you have persistent slipping, budget for a shop rebuild or reman/replacement — do not attempt “adjustment” as a simple DIY fix.

Final bottom line (no yapping)
- 42RLE band adjustment is not a simple external adjustment. Diagnose with fluid check, pan inspection and code scan. If the fault is internal bands/clutches, the correct fix is rebuild or replacement using factory procedures and special tools. For a beginner with basic tools the practical options are: perform the diagnostic checks listed, replace filter/gasket/ATF if needed, and take the vehicle to a transmission specialist for internal repairs or replacement.
rteeqp73

2007-18 Jeep Wrangler JK, Direct-Fit Auto Transmission & PS Cooler 2007-18 Jeep Wrangler JK, Direct-Fit Auto Transmission & PS Cooler. Please Subscribe to our YouTube channel: ...

Manual VS Automatic Transmissions Off Road Off road driving presents it's own set of unique challenges, some of which are handled better or more easily with a manual ...

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